Nexus 9 LCD Screen Replacement

Geschrieben von: Kelsey Rodriguez

Kommentare: 31

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Very difficult

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

2 Stunden

Einleitung

This guide will take approximately two hours, and involves the use of the iOpener for the adhesive located inside the board to be removed. In addition, all components of this device must be removed before the LCD can actually be removed.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Schritt 1

With your fingers, carefully pry off the back plastic casing. Starting at the corners is usually the easiest.
The rear-facing camera seems to fit a little too snugly in its compartment on the rear case; so make sure that it stays connected to the motherboard.

Just removed the cover. On mine, there is a piece of double sided tape, 2"x1", bottom middle, sticking the back cover to the battery. The battery pack's black skin ripped as I pulled the cover off. I was able to peel the skin from the tape and reposition on the batteries. Don't think this black skin is nothing more then a way to print branding and other texts onto the batteries.

Sccoaire - 15/02/16

Same here. Ridiculous!

rexograph143 - 21/02/18

I can confirm that the camera does fit very snugly into back cover.

Start by prying off the cover from the end opposite the camera. When you get near the camera lens, press the lens gently into the body as you continue to release the cover.

Graham Taylor - 04/12/17

Careful pressing that lens into the body, though, because the lens is actually attached to the back cover, not to the camera module (stupid, frankly). It is def a good idea to work from the other corner around, though.

Drew Rushmer - 16/01/20

Schritt 2

Use a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to gently lift the front-facing camera up from the motherboard.

Use spudger to flip white part of connector forward (towards camera). Then use tweezers to pull camera upwards and towards edge of case. It will slide right out.

Darryl Whitmore - 07/05/17

Schritt 3

Carefully peel up the copper shielding with your fingers.
Before fully removing the copper shielding, make sure that the blue antenna cable is out of the way of the copper tab.

On mine, the copper shield is smaller then shown in this picture. It does not cover the battery connector, hence you don't need to remove the copper shield to remove the battery.

Sccoaire - 15/02/16

Ditto. My theory is that ours were later model Nexus 9s produced after this ifixit featured this product!

rexograph143 - 21/02/18

Sur certains modèles, la feuille de cuivre est sous la batterie et n'a pas besoin d'être enlevé.

Rohanec - 23/08/16

Schritt 4

Using the spudger tool, carefully remove the bottom of the battery from it's location below the logic boards.
The battery is attached to the motherboard with some adhesive, so you may need an iOpener to loosen up the adhesive. Check out the iOpener guide for info on how to do it.
Do not pull the battery from the tablet yet, as it is still connected to the motherboard.

On my tablet, it was not glue, but double stick tape along the both long sides. I used the iOpener, which I laid along the sides. (My iOpener had printed on it, “Wait 10 minutes before reheating again.”) I slowly peeled the tape off of the battery. The copper shielding was below the battery. I carefully peeled the tape up in hopes of reusing it.

Gregg Ferry - 27/12/17

On mine, the battery was held by two strips of double stick tape. My iOpener helped. (my iOpener had written on it, “Wait 10 minutes before reheating again. ) As I lifted the battery, I peeled the tape away from it. Then I peeled up the tape in hopes of reusing it.

Gregg Ferry - 27/12/17

Schritt 5

Now remove the metal clip covering the battery's connector cable located above the top left of the battery with the spudger.
After the metal clip is wiggled free, the battery's connector cable can be easily removed by just gently tugging it free.

Use spudger to apply light pressure to right (as seen in picture above) side of clip near the board. Right side of clip will spring left and up. Use tweezers to lift clip upwards and to the right. It will come right out.

Darryl Whitmore - 07/05/17

White battery connector lifts straight up to disconnect.

Darryl Whitmore - 07/05/17

Schritt 6

The battery should now lift free of the tablet.

Again, on my Nexus 9, were I trying to actually remove the battery, it is double side taped to the frame. The battery’s casing would be further torn to shreds, should I try to remove it.

Good thing I’m just trying out a XDA repair for the “white/pixellated screen-150 decibel scream issue” that seems to be plaguing N9s nowadays, which involves cleaning the battery contacts. I may just have to replace it now, should it’s performance get any worse.

(It’s almost as if HTC wants the battery to be seriously damaged if replacement is attempted.)

rexograph143 - 21/02/18

It isn't necessary to remove the battery from device to replace the mobo. Ensure you've disconnected the power cable from the MoBo and you will be fine.

Arcade -

Schritt 7

This step is not necessary if you have already removed the battery.
Carefully peel up the copper shielding with your fingers.
Before fully removing the copper shielding, make sure that the blue antenna cable is out of the way of the copper tab.

Schritt 8

Unscrew the three 3 mm Torx T5 screws on the antenna board.
This step and the next show the battery removed, but it is not necessary to remove it if you are only replacing the antenna board.

Schritt 9

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to disconnect the blue antenna cable from the motherboard.
When reinstalling the antenna, be sure to clean it with a degreaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to create wireless interference.
The antenna board should now lift free of the motherboard.

If you happen to own a Nexus 9 LTE model, I strongly suggest that you take a photo of the exposed back (i.e. with the rear cover removed) and all wires still in place. You will later find that the LTE model differs in terms of daughter boards used, apparent connection points, number of wires used, and most importantly the way the wires even connect various components. At that point, you will also find that guides that cover the WiFi-only model are useless, for said reasons. You will additionally find that the only guides that are commonly accessible cover only that model. Lastly, before you replace any of the boards, I also strongly encourage you to compare the photo you will have taken to any replacements, to ascertain that they are compatible (to get you started: you will note a connection point on the daughter board that houses the micro-USB connector present in the LTE edition and absent (although the board does contain the solder points forming a circle) in the WiFi edition).

poser1999 - 16/10/19

Schritt 10

Use a spudger or your fingers to remove the first speaker. The speaker may be heavily glued in and require heat to lift. Be careful as you can pull the speaker apart.

My speaker was kind of glued in place and I hosed it pulling it out. Take something really pointy (tweezers?) to lift it out from the right side.

Gregg Ferry - 27/12/17

Schritt 11

Disconnect the two ZIF connectors attached to the daughterboards.
Gently pull on the ribbon cable to remove it.

Mine had an additional 3rd ZIF cable and an antenna cable.

Gregg Ferry - 27/12/17

Schritt 12

Remove the two 3mm T5 Torx screws securing the metal USB port bracket.
Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to remove the bracket.

Schritt 13

Unscrew the two 3mm T5 Torx screws securing the daughterboard to the device.
Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the vibrator cable. It will lift straight up from the daughterboard connector.
Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard upward and out of the device.

On mine, the vibrator connector slide away from the daughter board

Gregg Ferry - 27/12/17

Mine had an additional antenna black cable.

Gregg Ferry - 27/12/17

Schritt 14

The daughterboard has an orange ribbon cable that is adhered to the device. Gently pull the ribbon up and remove the daughtboard.

Mine was held with tenacious double stick tape. Better to pry up the board with pointy (tweezers?)

Gregg Ferry - 27/12/17

Schritt 15

Use a spudger to remove the second speaker.

Mine was held in place with a perfectly cut piece of tenacious double stick tape. I pried it up with the pointy (tweezers?)

Gregg Ferry - 27/12/17

Schritt 16

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the vibrator from the device.

My vibrator was held in place with tenacious double stick tap. I bent my tweezers; use a pointed knife instead.

Gregg Ferry - 27/12/17

Schritt 17

Remove the three 3 mm T5 Torx screws.
Remove the five 2 mm Phillips #000 screws.

For the Phillips screws, I found Phillips #00 to be a better fit.

Darryl Whitmore - 07/05/17

In mine, the mother board exended all the way to the right. Two of the phillips screws held the SIM slot daughter board and connected to the motherboard with a ZIF connector. Next the the SIM board was a white antenna cable.

Gregg Ferry - 27/12/17

Schritt 18

Using your fingers, pull up on ribbon connector to expose another ribbon connector below.
Remove the two 2 mm Phillips #000 screws on top of the second ribbon connector.
Pull up the ribbon connector with your fingers.

The top ribbon cable goes to the (now) right daughter board and the ZIF connectors were already opened. The bottom ribbon cable is connected kind of underneath the second daughter board. This is a ZIF connector and one would lift the black (on mine) part that would be away from the disassembler.

Gregg Ferry - 27/12/17

Schritt 19

Gently lift the motherboard up from the device.

I also had to remove the volume up/down rocker that was attached to the old motherboard with a connector and an adhesive strip. Remove this and transfer to the new motherboard before beginning to install the new motherboard.

Darryl Whitmore - 07/05/17

On mine, the copper shielding was still attached. I wish I had left it attached. I slide a spludger from the right to get the board up.

Gregg Ferry - 27/12/17

Schritt 20

Refer to the rear-facing camera replacement guide to remove the rear-facing camera from the motherboard and transfer it to the new one.
The motherboard remains.

I don't understand by what it means transfer it to the new one? I only want to replace the display and LCD.

Rashmi Goonasekera - 06/12/15

Schritt 21

Remove the single 3mm T5 Torx screw.
Use a spudger to disconnect the display ribbon cable ZIF connector.
Gently lift the USB daughterboard up from the device.

I lifted at the USB connector first.

Gregg Ferry - 27/12/17

Schritt 22

Use a spudger or your fingers to remove the LCD connector from the display assembly.

Schritt 23

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.
Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

Schritt 24

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.
Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.
Always wait at least three minutes before reheating the iOpener.

Schritt 25

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Schritt 26

Place the iOpener on the sides of the LCD where the adhesive is located beneath.
Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
This should be repeated for every side of the tablet, and each side will most likely need to be heated more than once.

Schritt 27

Using the picks located in the iOpener Kit, insert the picks into the corners of the tablet, and move it back and forth along the sides of tablet.
Do this for every corner of the tablet until it is possible to pull the LCD from the display assembly with your finger.
Carefully remove the LCD from the display assembly because there is a ribbon located at the bottom that could be ripped with force.
The LCD should come completely free from the back assembly now by just leading the ribbon through the opening in the display assembly.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

Kelsey Rodriguez

Mitglied seit: 22/01/15

844 Reputation

2 Kommentare

What if the glass is broken and the lcd seems fine? Can I just get a new piece of glass and do the heating/pick steps?

Weston S - 17/02/16

So I replaced the lcd abd glass but it won't display any thing when I turn it on I get haptic feedback and the led turns on but nothing on the screen I plugged it in and no battery charging display either I checked yto make sure the screen was not damaged in anyway what could be the problem ? I followed your guied to the letter ???

kanif88 - 24/06/17