Nintendo 3DS Wi-Fi Antenne austauschen

Rember to transfer the model number sticker to the new cover

Had to give up at this point. Tried using the ifixit #00 phillips screwdriver to take out two screws and ended up stripping them.

Stuck at the same spot, those screws are in there really tight.

Ruined my screws because of incorrect head, thanks!

When assembling, make sure that L ribbon is inside the case and R ribbon is not under the aluminium battery case. I got them both cut accidentally and had to replace :(

Man muss die Folienkabel für die Tasten nicht unbedingt abziehen wenn man einen Gegenstand dahinter stellt, an dem man den Deckel senkrecht anlehnen kann.

Don't listen to the german guy. It's very easy to pop back

When reassembling verify that the circle pad control is oriented right. I had to go back in after completion when I realized it wasn't centered.

I would not disable the back side all the way because it could really mess up your 3DS.

From this step, follow this video https://youtu.be/XGdRim2Mvrk?t=627

you can skipp from step 8 to 20

lots of unnecessary steps

The retaining flap on mine broke off, is there any way to fix it?

Don't do this step! it is not necessary. you can skip steps 8 through 20

When reassembling, you can use the pointy end of the spudger to align the hold again with the joystick. It’ll probably have bounced around while you’re moving other things.

That moment you bought all your supplies and realise while removing the wifi chip the antenna is not plugged in because you forgot to plug it in last time……… Scew me…

Be sure to fit the motherboard inbetween the joystick and volume slider in properly (you can double check by seeing if the volume slider on the outside goes up and down smoothly). When I closed it the first time it was stuck on full volume so I needed to go back in and readjust!

The camera ribbon cable contacts face towards the motherboard, the speaker ones face away.

Do yourself a favor and DON'T remove the 2.5 mm silver screw (yellow circle). It just holds in a little plastic bit under the volume control. The board comes out just fine with the screw still in. If you remove it, the plastic bit will fall out at random when you turn over the case.

First time I took mine apart, I noticed something fall out later, tracked it down and then puzzled over what it was and where it came from.

There is some adhesive where the AC adapter plugs in so I recommend watching out for that

Reinserting this ribbon cable is quite difficult. I found opening the case so that it sits upright at a 90 degree angle helps. The first two times I tried reassembling the top display did not work. Turned out that I was not inserting the ribbon cable in enough. I used tweezers to push this in by gently grabbing the ribbon cable. I was continually inspecting the cable for damage but apparently did not damage it. If anyone has a better idea on how to reinsert this cable I think others would greatly appreciate it.

Putting the cable back in is the hardest part out of all of this (if you can get past the screws near the beginning). If you have a friend that you trust very much and is very gentle, another pair of hands here really will help. If you're without a friend, make sure to use some flat, angled precision tweezers to push the ribbon in with one hand (pointed tweezers will do in a pinch but you'll have to be careful - I put a small dent in the ribbon and thought I'd broke it), and then use a spudge or something in the other to push the flap down.

Also worth noting is that the ribbon for the top screen also handles the 3D - if you complete the guide and find you are unable to turn the 3D effect off, you didn't insert the ribbon enough, as I had the problem and re-inserting the ribbon fully fixed it.

Careful when reassembling -- watch the position of the black wifi antenna wire! I got mine most of the way back together and noticed it wouldn't close all the way. This wire had come out of the little posts holding it in place and was wedged between the screen and motherboard. Now I have to take it all apart again to fix this.

Also if you're taking the board out of a working unit to get at the CLK signal to backup the NAND chip ("hardmod"), you don't need to remove the difficult ribbon cable in this step, or the other two wide ones at the top right from earlier. Leave them attached and swing the board out. It won't rotate a full 180 degrees to sit flat outside the unit, but you can open the screen 90 degrees to prop the rest up while having the board out on your table.

Make sure when putting the motherboard back onto the bottom part of the casing that the antenna wire is where it should be - the first time I put this back together the wire got loose and was smooshed in between the casing and the Y and Power buttons, causing them to be stiff/not work. Using the spudge should help in pushing the wire back into the slots along the inside of the case.

Maybe a dumb question, but how would I go about reattaching the top screen if it's attached to the 3ds by an adhesive? If I have to use more adhesive to put it back on, what would be the recommended kind to do so?

I have the same question/concern that "jgonsoski" has. Is the adhesive on the front panel still usable after it's pried off the display bezel? Or does it have to be removed? If so, what adhesive can be used or is suitable to adhere back the front panel to the display bezel?

BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO MELT THE SPEAKERS. This happened to me and now one of the plastic covers for the speakers is melted inside the speaker itself, despite the display cover being undamaged. It is made of a much thinner plastic and i assume it heats up faster.

Some versions have a seventh screw under the right speaker, I almost broke mine because of that

What if I need a new one

When reassembling you may find it difficult to get the bar back into the hole in the hinge. A couple of tips:

* Reassemble it with the clamshell pieces in a ‘closed’ position (same position that you took it apart).

* The pin/bar may have rotated slightly during disassembly (mine did). It only goes into the hole one way - the hole is actually a slot. If the alignment is off even a couple of degrees it won’t pop back in. If this happens simply lift the edge with the bar up out of the hinge and push the bar so it pops back out (like it was going into the hinge). The take a pair of pliers and gently rotate the bar to fix the alignment, pop the bar back to the ‘unhinged/open’ position, then reassemble.

You may want to use small pieces of scotch tape to reinforce each individual ribbon cable before proceeding, being careful not to cover the gold contacts. The cables can be very brittle and when rolled up tightly they can crack and break like a dry leaf. The tape can be left on the cables after removal and installation.

does it matter if these cables are not connected?

I accidentally broke the ribbon cable for the camera status LED, reckon I'll get away with it being broken or will it need replacing?

Whoever designed this is a major ****. I eventually found a tear on the new LCD's ribbon upon installing, and I recall having a really hard time twisting the 3 ribbons together and into that tiny hole.

This is the crazy hard part of the process. Be patient and it should eventually work. I found that reassembling but leaving all of the pieces out of the case (screen, camera harness, speaker harness) helped. It’s nearly impossible to do this if the screen is sitting in it’s normal position - the corner of the screen blocks a part of the hole. Assemble it all outside of the case, curl up the harnesses, and then work them through the hole. Once you have that done, then snake the wifi antenna through the hole. And finally place the screen into place (and the speakers/cameras/led). This probably took me an hour to figure out.

Oh, and once all of that was done *then* I worried about curling things up again and getting that black bushing over the cables. I doubt I could have done it with the bushing in place in the hole.

I’d recommend watching Daniel-Jay Pascual’s video and giving their method a shot. It did take awhile to get it just right, but I eventually got it to work. It worked best for me when I started twisting right below the contacts. As long as you are patient and don’t rush anything you’ll be fine.

if you dont remove the ring and pull you will rip the camera