Nintendo 3DS XL 2015 Kartenleser austauschen

Geschrieben von: Jacky Loh
  • Kommentare: 59
Nintendo 3DS XL 2015 Kartenleser austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

16

Zeitaufwand

20 - 25 Minuten

Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch des Kartenlesers gezeigt.

  1. klktHCVYwld2jPbu

    • Schalte das Gerät aus, du könntest es sonst beschädigen.

    • Lege den 3DS mit dem Boden nach oben. Entferne Game Card, Ohrhörer, Ladekabel, Stylus und was auch sonst noch verbunden ist.

  2. ItsctXxYnpWHaGbE

    • Drehe die beiden schwarzen JIS #0 Schrauben auf der Rückseite heraus.

    • Die Schrauben werden von Unterlegscheiben festgehalten und lassen sich nicht ganz entfernen.

    My experience indicates that a JIS #1 is more appropriate here.

    John Menden -

    Same here, much more appropriate.

    Jack Wilson -

  3. DQAtfmJFRLFufoBV

    • Wenn die Schrauben frei sind kannst du den Rückdeckel lösen.

  4. OrrGelvrQqNI2rLT

    • Der Akku befindet sich links. In der Mitte oben ist eine kleine Lücke, hier kannst du mit einem geeigneten Werkzeug (nicht aus Metall!) hebeln.

    Also you should remove any SD card at this point

    James Grant -

    Does this battery work on a NEW 3DS XL model?

    Froggy The Frog -

    This guide is for the New 3DS XL, which is called the 2015 3DS XL here on iFixit. If you're asking about the 3DS replacement battery advertised in the iFixit store, I believe it works for both new and old models.

    BabblingFishes -

  5. nCgM35SfWxS1LjiY

    • Entferne die sechs JIS #000 Schrauben entlang des Rands der inneren Abdeckung.

    I used a #00 instead it works better for a model form 2016

    matthewmccreary10 -

  6. TIvcQXdAyYfU4Wmr
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    • An der Oberkante befinden sich zwei Gummiabdeckungen. Ziehe sie vorsichtig mit einer Pinzette heraus. Darunter befinden sich zwei JIS #000 Schrauben die du ebenfalls herausdrehen musst.

    Can the rubber bumpers be replaced once you reassemble the 3DS? I'd really hate to have to take them out and never be able to put them back in, if I'm honest...

    Taylor Prince -

    Yep, we were able to put them back in quite easily after repeated teardowns! If they ever refused to stay in for some reason, you could always put a little bit of something sticky on them. (I use scrapbooking tape on my laptop's bumpers.)

    BabblingFishes -

    What happens if I strip one of these screws? How hard would into be to remove them?

    Thomas Ciavattone -

    very hard. i stripped 4 screws on my new 3ds xl and i haven’t been able to get them out. i even bought the precision screw extrator set and nothing the set sucked.

    marco martinez -

  7. 2OxOw4K5fKTO4eKJ
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    • Um die Abdeckung abzunehmen musst du sie vorsichtig hoch und weg vom Gelenk heben ( damit die Ohrhörerbuchse frei wird). Schwenke sie dann in Richtung des Gelenks um an die Platinen zu gelangen.

    • Entferne die Abdeckung noch nicht ganz. Sie ist immer noch mit der Hauptplatine durch empfindliche Flachbandkabel verbunden.

    I accidentally opened it and broke the ribbon cable to the r and zr buttons by accident. How do I fix it?

    Spider Soda -

  8. qB2QkMgZUY13Oebv

    • Die beiden Verbinder zu den Flachbandkabel der L/R/ZL/ZR Tasten können mit einer Pinzette gelöst werden. Dann kannst du die Abdeckung ganz entfernen und zur Seite legen.

    I discovered that there is enough clearance to slide the Game Cartridge Slot assembly out without removing the motherboard. Just remove the two connectors going to the Cartridge Slot assembly and take out the 3 screws holding it down. There were two screws that look like they are holding the assembly down, but they are only holes through the assembly and don’t actually hold it down. At least on the Pokemon version, New 3DS XL that I had.

    Reed Deemer -

    Can confirm, it's leagues easier to do it that way than to go to the trouble of removing the entire motherboard, potentially screwing something up in the process. Thank you so much for sharing this alternative method!

    João Gaspar -

    I third this alternative method for D-pad replacement. To add to the previously noted detail, you also need to disconnect a 3rd connector going to the Cartridge Slot assembly, the one going to the D-pad Board itself which is underneath the Cartridge Slot assembly, which is shown at a later step in this guide. Also, I found I needed to loosen the two screws on the motherboard located nearest the Cartridge Slot assembly in order to get enough clearance to slide the assembly out, as there are two plastic guide stands that hold the assembly in place which the motherboard otherwise holds too tightly to pass. Otherwise, incredibly smooth sailing, minimal connectors removed, and my New 3DS LL import model finally has a working left/right again. Thanks everyone!

    Chris St-Louis -

  9. 4iBjfT6EbMXjfUP1

    • Klappe den kleinen scharnierartigen Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Anschluss des Flachbandkabels zum Schiebepad mit einer Pinzette hoch.

    • Schiebe das Flachbandkabel aus dem Anschluss heraus.

    Is not the right side, the switch must be pull to the left, otherwise people will brake it.

    DartzSoryu -

    I suggest removing the joystick first, swing to left side, then lift up on ZIF connector from the right. You’re able to pull ribbon cable out easier from the left at that point w/o breaking it, as I did.

    Dylan Riffel -

    2nd the removing of the joystick first via the two screws and to be careful handling the plastic washer underneath. It’s coated with a Teflon type material to aid in stick movement. also use a finger nail over tweezers any change you get. A nail is less rigid with natural give and less likely to break plastic latches. If it doesn’t open from the end you expect, stop, and try the other side right away. Be gently.

    Shiftnumlock -

  10. QNVAENKHH1KFvBAV

    • Entferne die beiden 8 mm JIS #000 Schrauben am Schiebepad.

  11. BxEYUkJoEkkGwwVK

    • Hebe das Gehäuse des Schiebepads nach oben und entferne es. Es klemmt vielleicht ein bisschen, sollte aber nicht zu viel Kraft benötigen.

  12. s5XR6SEbE2Tfuo2A

    • Finde den goldfarbenen Stecker mit dem roten Kabel oben links auf der Hauptplatine. Ziehe den Stecker vorsichtig mit den Fingern nach oben heraus.

    • Löse den Verbinder des einzelnen Flachbandkabels mit der Pinzette.

    • Ziehe keinesfalls an dem roten Kabel.

    MDR j'avais vu cette erreur il y a un petit moment... et vous pouvez ajouter, ne pas casser le connecteur comme sur la photo !

    Sylvain Delreux -

    Use a spudger to remove the red cable plug.

    Luis Leon -

  13. QPVwUNNHAwwZWJQ5
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    • Löse mit der Pinzette vorsichtig die fünf markierten ZIF Verbinder auf der Hauptplatine.

    • Vorsicht! Diese ZIF Verbinder werden nur eingeklemmt und haben keine Sicherungsbügel. Wenn du die Klappen daran hochhebst wirst du sie abbrechen. Es kann aber auch sein, dass der oberste Verbinder eine Sicherung hat.

    • Drei Verbinder haben einen Sicherungsbügel. Klappe ihn hoch und löse die Verbindung.

    • Vergiss beim Zusammenbau nicht diese Bügel wieder zu befestigen.

    • Auf dem Foto ist der SD Kartenleser entfernt. Das kannst du machen, unbedingt nötig ist es nicht.

    Hi,

    Can you pls inform me the purpose of the topmost red marked ZIF transparent flex cable, I wish to repair my N3DS XL but I am missing this flex cable (for which part is this cable relevant).

    Thanks

    Khusro -

    I don't have the model on me for reference, but if I remember correctly, it's for the bottom screen.

    BabblingFishes -

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WQY7N9?psc... I believe

    Michael Zaeus -

    I think it should be noted that the upper most ZIF is incorrectly labelled here as one to remove with tweezers and not to try to open the clamp. I did this recently and have now broken my brand new 3ds. This cable is for the digitizer at the front of the bottom screen. So my touch screen no longer works. I now need to carry out a further repair. Just a heads up.

    Simon Lyell -

    Accurate. I have to purchase a new digitizer because of this. I tore the conductors in the cable removing it from the ZIF connector. And I’m really very angry that no correction has been made in the almost 9 months since you posted.

    Sabs Like Labs -

    Sabs Like Labs, can you please share a picture of your connector ? last time I dismounted one I had no problems with this connector but maby there are different versions ?

    Guillaume Blas -

    Zoe, I don’t suppose you would know what part to search for to replace one of these lock-less friction connectors? Before this article posted I partially broke one of mine thinking it had a lock and would like to replace it. The old one still works but I have to fiddle with it to get a good connection now. The one I broke is nearest to the cartridge socket.

    Arie Beugelsdijk -

    &&^& all those tutoriel now is just break my new 3ds &&^& you internet

    xavier delfini -

    I broke my connectors the little gray pieces broke not the touch screen and the joy stick are broken.

    mcoughlin625 -

    Wish I’d read the comments first, messed up this connection pretty bad too.

    bajah -

    Glad I read the comments first! The topmost red connector DOES have a clamp you need to flip up to release.

    BBW -

    I can confirm there are two different versions of the clip. One flips up and just pushes in

    thomas rhymestine -

    As others have mentioned, the topmost red connector HAS A CLAMP that you need to flip up. It seems like the creator of this guide has a 3ds with older board revision. With multiple people already having brought up the issue, the creator should absolutely update this guide to note the differences as others have already broken their devices due to this guide.

    Jason He -

    Can confirm that the top most connector has a clamp on mine as well. tore the ribbon cable taking it out and now my bottom screen touch screen is unresponsive. also if you are on this guide looking to replace the game card reader, i also found out after trying to replace mine … You DO NOT need to remove the motherboard in order to replace it !

    Harry Appleton -

    I swear there isn't a new 3ds XL tutorial out there without wrong steps ending up in destroying your device… Can ifixit confirm they've read the comments and fixed the guide?

    Anrei -

    Then digitizer absolutely should be updated to note, I also broke the GREY clamp off, when treying to remove, and bought a new one.

    I believe this to be the replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WQY7N9?psc...

    Michael Zaeus -

    I also ruined the digitizer connector thinking it had a lock (yes, I failed to read the guide correctly). I ordered another motherboard that cost me $100 (ifixit had none in stock, only option on ebay) only to find out it still doesn't work (now for some reason no button nor touchscreen work which doesn't even make sense since they all have different connectors). Please update this guide to point people to just remove the card reader without taking the motherboard off. I could have avoided all this by just replacing the card reader directly.

    Aristeu Rozanski -

    Wow...ifixit is flat out lying about that top connector. There is no such thing as 2 different board revisions. ALL models have the clamp type connector. If you zoom in you can clearly see the creator has broken off the clamp in the pictures and is misrepresenting it as a friction connector. Unbelievable.

    deepakdamodara -

    I just broke the not clip connectors thinking they were the ones that flip... Please, how can I fix the connectors?

    m4d83112 -

  14. FUosIVbdGfyBwmcI

    • Entferne sechs 4 mm JIS #000 Schrauben am Rand der Hauptplatine.

  15. bNldGWc6JpyiUcih
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    • Schwenke vorsichtig die Hauptplatine um 90° in Richtung des Gelenks um zwei weitere ZIF Verbinder auf der Unterseite der Hauptplatine freizulegen.

    • Beide haben Sicherungsbügel die hochgeklappt werden müssen. Der längere links ist schwarz, der kürzere rechts weiß. Klappe sie hoch und löse die Verbindung.

    • Notiere dir die Orientierung der Kabel.

    9-15 aren't necessary at all. Its a super easy fix step 16 is sufficient.

    Javier Rodriguez -

    I think you might be confused; this is a guide for replacing the motherboard, not the entire bottom half of the unit.

    BabblingFishes -

    The top says this is a guide for the directional pad though

    Jimmy -

    Oh! Apologies; I didn't realize iFixit duplicated comments for duplicate steps. The message alert directed me to the motherboard replacement guide. Whoops.

    Anyway, as I recall, the card reader was more safely and easily removed once the motherboard was out of the way. But I agree that it was likely doable without. Thank you for the input!

    BabblingFishes -

    What does changing the motherboard do, is it if u like bricked your system or what?

    Josh TRW -

    Agree here. I’m doing the job to replace the lower screen, and connecting these two cables at the corner was the hardest part of reassembly. I would have done the job without disconnecting these.

    BBW -

    Getting the ribbons back in can be a challenge but don’t give up. Pull them taught and try to work at an angle that give you the most length.

    Shiftnumlock -

    Do you know the name of the shorter zif connector, or how to order it? I am talking about the one that is on the botton side of the board,that sometime it is hard to connect the ribbon cable. I think it has like 30 pins. Thank you.

    Marcos Cabral -

    What is the name or how to order the small zif connectors that is on the bottom side of the board, I think it has like 30 pins. Thank you

    Marcos Cabral -

    I just want to swap out lcd screens, what steps can I omit? this is the only bottom screen guide online and so many bricks wtf can’t someone make a video like top lcds there are many.

    joey grimes -

  16. QcFXWIH3kePXnLPl

    • Entferne fünf 5 mm JIS # 000 Schrauben am Kartenleser.

    • Entferne den Kartenleser.

    There’s a ribbon cable on the game card reader that wasn’t mentioned in this guide.

    Zachary Hudson -

    It also tells us to remove two screws from the d-pad that is mentioned later, since these are a different size I believe it’s best to leave those screws for the next step.

    Zachary Hudson -

    The replacement card reader I got must've have had some issue with the connectors. I had to place some extra foam to put pressure on the ribbon cable, otherwise it either didn't recognize any card, made the d-pad act up, or both.

    João Gaspar -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammen zu setzen folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Jacky Loh

Mitglied seit: 02/04/15

308 Reputation

8 Kommentare

I bought a replacement card slot and it has the small flat cable connector not on the top right like on your photos (and in my New 3DS XL) but on the right oriented to the right, see https://abload.de/img/cardslot_sintech_2....

Does anyone have any insight on different revisions of the card slot? Where can I buy a card slot like the one in the photos here? Thanks in advance.

Uwe -

Will I be able to complete this process with a PH00? I don’t have have a PH000 or any JIS screwdrivers.

Luke -

You don't have to take the entire board out to replace this

Skyler Davis -

Are you sure?

Kevin Canto -

That is true. I just changed mine easily without removing the whole mainboard..

battlepengu -

yeah looking over the teardown, I could already tell. I can understand why you’d think to remove the board, however it really just looks like the flex cable would’ve just slid in nicely underneath the board, saving a lot of headache from not removing everything and having to put everything back.

Gunitz427 -

I didnt need to remove the motherboard at all. Could just unscrew the card reader and carefully disconnect it and change it with another one :) Very easy and my 3ds is fixed again.

battlepengu -

Any ideas? Just changed the card slot and the new3DS XL still powers down with a pop every time a game card is inserted. Elsewhere on the web there was a similar symptom the referenced a bad capacitor, c144 i believe, but I can't locate that on the board. Think it must have been referencing an earlier model.

PaulT -