Nintendo Switch Pro Controller Joystick austauschen

Geschrieben von: Daniel Tagalog
  • Kommentare: 33
Nintendo Switch Pro Controller Joystick austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Schwierig

Schritte

16

Zeitaufwand

35 - 40 Minuten

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt, wie du defekte Joysticks in deinem Nintendo Switch Pro Controller austauschen kannst. Du musst dazu Kenntnisse im Löten haben. Beim Abnehmen der Kunststoff-Gehäuseschalen und der Leiterplatten musst du besonders vorsichtig sein, damit das Gerät nicht unrettbar beschädigt wird. Bei dieser Reparatur wird auch der Lithium-Ionen-Akku ausgebaut, wenn dieser aufgebläht ist, musst du geeignete Vorsichtsmaßnahmen treffen.

  1. iaKRfcPV2HNC5yUK

    • Drehe den Controller so um, dass der Aufkleber mit der Modellnummer nach oben zeigt.

    • Entferne die beiden schwarzen 8,4 mm Flachkopf-Kreuzschlitzschrauben mit einem JIS #00-Bit mit denen die Handgriffe am Ende verschraubt sind.

    Be carefull, these screws are super easy to strip even with the right tools.

    Lukas Eberharter -

    I tried editing these instructions after I had trouble with stripping screws, but it doesn't seem to take. The issue is that these are JIS and not Phillips screws. They are VERY similar looking but a Phillips head screwdriver will strip the screws.

    Isaac Webb -

    I tried using a Philips #00 screwdriver but it didn’t work

    vincent ingrassia -

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    • Ziehe die Abdeckungen der Griffe vorsichtig vom Controller.

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    • Entferne die vier silberfarbenen 6,8 mm langen JIS-Schrauben #00, mit denen die durchsichtige Abdeckung befestigt ist.

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    • Löse die durchsichtige Abdeckung mit deinem Fingernagel ab.

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    • Entferne die durchsichtige Abdeckung.

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    • Entferne den Lithium-Ionen-Akku, indem du ihn mit deinem Fingernagel oder einem Öffnungswerkzeug an der linken Seite anhebst.

    • Dafür brauchst du nur wenig Kraft.

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    • Entferne die fünf 6 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben auf der Rückseite des Controllers.

    the 2 screws up at the top are unreachable with the standard fixit kit just a heads up

    drew -

    Seconded. the screws are located too deep below the plastic slot, and the bit holding bulge is too wide for the small aperture (similarly with the flexible extension). the bit length is too shallow to reach.

    An alternative driver with a much narrower & longer shaft is required, which will likely not come with interchangeable bits.

    Douglas Selby -

    I would say it is possible to reach the top left screw, just not the top right - there is a gap in the top left that allows you to slightly bend the standard driver outward to turn it while still making adequate contact.

    El_Mechacontext -

    An update: I was actually able to remove the top right one in a really hacky way - inserting the Phillips #0 bit into the #4 hex bit, and then using that in the standard driver. This added just enough length to successfully reach and make full contact with the screw!

    El_Mechacontext -

    Using the #4 hex bit as an extension was the exact "hack" I needed to get rid of the drift finally. Thank you. You're a lifesaver.

    Das #4 Hex Bit als Verlängerung für das Kreuzschlitz Bit zu nutzen ist zwar etwas eng, aber es erspart einem wirklich einen zusätzlichen Schraubendreher.

    Techn0magier -

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    • Nimm die Kunststoffabdeckung des Controllers behutsam ab.

    • Entferne die Abdeckung noch nicht ganz, sie ist noch mit einem weißen Flachbandkabel an der Hauptplatine angeschlossen.

    Didn't realize there is adhesive holding the front cover onto the unit. It's located inside of the handles. Just a bit of force there helped, just be careful of the cable.

    Roger Perez -

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    • Drücke den schwarzen Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Anschluss mit der Spitze eines Plektrums zum Öffnen nach oben.

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    • Löse das Verbindungskabel mit deinen Fingern oder einer stumpfen Pinzette aus seinem Anschluss.

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    • Entferne das vordere Gehäuseteil.

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    • Ziehe mit leichter Kraft die beiden Joystickkappen vom Controller ab.

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    • Entferne die vier 5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Hauptplatine befestigt ist.

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    • Löse das LED-Licht mit mit einer Pinzette oder deinen Fingernägeln aus seiner Fassung.

    • Lege das LED-Licht samt seiner Schraube bis zum Zusammenbau zur Seite.

    You are not removing the 4 LEDs here, they are soldered on the board. You are only removing the light transporting plastic piece.

    Uncle BenZ -

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    • Löse die Platine aus dem Gehäuse, indem du sanft an der unteren rechten Ecke ziehst.

    • Hebe die Platine hoch, um an die Rückseite zu gelangen.

    • Setze hier nicht zu viel Kraft ein, du könntest die Kabel beschädigen.

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    Bonjour,pour dessouder les joysticks, qu’avez-vous utilisez comme outil: de la tresse ou une pompe à dessouder ?

    Par avance merci.

    Patrick

    le hellegouarch -

    J’ai utilisé une pompe, avec de bons résultats

    Brian -

    The most difficult part of this was desoldering. I used no-clean soldering braid and the original solder did not wick up. I heated each solder pad and added just a bit of 60/40 tin/lead solder. After that the braid worked much better and all solder wicked up to the braid allowing me to remove the component.

    paulshopping -

    I used this tutorial to replace one broken joystick after it took s heavy hit but now both of my joysticks drift and when I tried to calibrate them they looked to be moving on there own please help

    Jeroen Zomer -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Daniel Tagalog

Mitglied seit: 10/10/19

1254 Reputation

19 Kommentare

I managed to replace mine with much difficulty with the soldering but the stick does not seem to turn fully anymore, both with the replacement and the original. For reference, when I go to test it, it no longer registers as reaching the outer circle when pressed all the way down. Similarly when I go to calibrate it, it only reaches up til about the 2nd outer circle, not enough to actually trigger the green arrow. Since this seems to occur on both the replacement and original stick now, I’m guessing this must be some issue that arose while I was struggling with the desoldering process. Anybody have any ideas what might be causing my issue? Have I just damaged it beyond repair?

Tyler -

Without pictures it is impossible to tell, but there is the possibility that you strips the metal connection on the solder point. This is fixable by “bridging” the connection. You will want to find schematics of the wiring for the PCB and then solder the wire over to the next connection.

As a side note, I should mention that I have never tried this on a controller of any sort and that I have only used this method on keyboards with single wire connections. It is possible that the connection in a controller PCB have more going on and that this technique will not work.

Gavin A -

I have the same problem, I buy 2 joystick module from iFixit and the two gave me the same issue, the joystick module don't reach the green arrow.

I can't calibrate because of that issue.

Any ideas?

Piero Grasso -

I have also had the same issue with replacement, only reaches roughly 75%. I contacted ifixit and they sent me a replacement thinking it might be a faulty pot, I installed the new stick and have the same issue. Maybe different years used different resistance.

marcos aguilera -

See my answer a bit down. I think it has to do with the resistance of the module. I had the same issue with the part I received from iFixit, the original part has a resistance of 1150 ohm, but the replacement is 1600 ohm. And I have a different module which is about 500 ohm, and that works just fine.

Peter de Bruine -

Excellent guide. Thank you. Saved me from having to buy a $70 controller.

One comment though, all the screws are actually Phillips #0 except for the grip screws, which are Phillips #00

Brian -

I managed to repair a drifting stick input without any soldering by just replacing the potentiometer in the stick module. You can pry open the housing on the sides, swap it out (make sure it’s the right orientation), and snap it back into place. Potentiometers for Dualshock 4 analog sticks worked for me—apparently these parts are industry standard. Doing this from now on for all my drifty sticks.

Scott Baker -

Hi Scott —

.

So, first off, thanks for the tip! Now, I realize I may be asking a bit much of you here, but, is there any chance you could post/take/fwd any pics of the (sub)procedure you describe? It’d be really helpful to have a reference like that before I tear into a functioning joystick — even if it has a sporadic (though no less infuriating for that) issue.

.

If that’s not feasible, then perhaps you know of and can post a link to a decent guide for doing so on any of the platforms that use these (apparently standard) items?

.

Thanks in advance for any help on this! :oD

anatinus -

I would like to try it your way. Do you have any pictures or something like it. Maybe a video?

André Schenkels -

Do you know how to correctly reassemble the grey piece in the picture?

First thought was something had snapped but after popping off the same piece from the other (working) thumbstick they seem to be identical and neither the part nor the socket seems damaged. I also can’t see any evidence of glue.

The problem is I can’t get the part to clip back into place - it is supposed to sit flush and taught without any movement when the stick is rotated. But no matter how I reapply it I can’t clip it into place.

https://i.imgur.com/mFOQEUy.jpg

Casey -

After doing this. I lost charging capabilities and the capability to even plug it into a PC. Any advice will be beneficial.

Jose Godoi -

I think the grip screws are JIS #00 which would make sense since this is made in Japan.

jorach -

After replacing my analog with one from iFixIt I am only getting about half range on my analog and cannot complete recalibration. I tried 2 analogs from iFixIt with the same issue. I replaced with the original and have full range again

Peter Roach -

I destroyed some of the wiring, but measured connections on the other stick, and used a thin wire to re-wire the broken connection from top to bottom. Works great, even could calibrate it without issues. Unfortunately I broke the thick wires soldering that connects the battery, I’ll need some more delicate equipment to fix that one, until then it works fine when connected to power with cable.

Thraex Aquator -

I have a broken joystick cap, can I just replace it and stop at step 12?

Thank you

Daniel Cardenas -

Is this verified to be working with the replacement part from ifixit? I ordered 2 but don't want to do all the solder work if ppl are only getting 75% range of motion from the non oem parts

ALAN MITCHELL -

For anyone having problems with reduced stick movement, I ran into the same issue but was able to calibrate the stick in the Switch settings by being persistent and repeatedly trying to give the Switch the calibration input it wanted. I sometimes took short breaks in between inputs, not sure if that mattered. The rotation took the longest, maybe two minutes but eventually it completed and now my left stick is as precise as the right stick which I didn't touch. I hope this helps anyone else!

Luna -

I also had the problem with the reduced stick movement, which caused being unable to calibrate the (left) stick. Had my pro controller since 2018 and after about a year it got stick drift. I fixed that myself by replacing the joystick module with a one I bought for an Xbox 360 controller.

That one worked just fine, but after a couple of years the module broke and the stick would stay in one direction. So I bought a new part and replaced it but that gave me the reduced stick movement issue. So I ordered a replacement stick from iFixit but it had the same problem.

I think the issue lies in the amount of resistance the module has. The original (right) module has a resistence of about 1150 ohm, but the iFixit one has a resistance of about 1600 ohm and the Xbox 360 one has about 500 ohm resistance. So I took the resistance parts of the Xbox 360 module and placed them on the original part and soldered that back in place and now it works again.

So now I have 2 pro controllers :D

Peter de Bruine -

Forgot to mention, I also have a Wii U module from the gamepad which had drift and that does have 1600 ohm resistance.

Peter de Bruine -