Einleitung

You can install hard drives up to 12.5mm thick.

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    • Turn the keyboard locking screw so that it is parallel to the space bar.

    • Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

    • Lift the keyboard out by pulling it up and away from you. Rest the keyboard, face down, on top of the track pad.

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    • Pull the keyboard ribbon straight up from the logic board. Place the keyboard aside.

    • The connector may be tight. Gently rock the connector from side to side while pulling directly upward to free it. You can use this technique on many of the cards and cables you'll be disconnecting.

    • Make sure you have removed the laptop battery and CD/DVD modules from the expansion bays before proceeding.

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    • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

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    • Remove the two silver Phillips #1 screws that attach the heat shield to the internal metal framework.

    • Lift the heat shield up and pull it toward you.

    On my M7572, these are T9s not Philips.

    Rufleyboy -

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    • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

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    • Skip this step if your computer does not have an Airport card installed.

    • Firmly grasp the plastic tab attached to the Airport card and pull up and then to the right.

    • The Airport card is still attached to the antenna cable, so don't just yank it out of the slot.

    On mine, the airport card had been put it with the orange ribbon OVER the top, so had to unplug the righthand connector and then plug it back in after (see pic for Step 8)

    Rufleyboy -

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    • Disconnect the antenna cable from the Airport card.

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    • Remove the long silver Phillips #1 screw from the heat sink.

    • Remove the two T8 Torx screws that attach the heat sink to the processor.

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    • Lift the heat sink up from the left side and pull it out.

    • If you need to mount the heat sink back into the laptop, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

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    • Grasp the plastic tab on the processor's right side and pull it directly up.

    • Some processors may be missing the plastic pull tab. In this case, we suggest using a non-metal tool to gently pry up the processor. Slip the tool's thin edge under the front right corner of the processor and carefully pry it up.

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    • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

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    • Grasp the orange cable at the left end of the hard drive and disconnect it from the logic board.

    • Try to grasp the cable on the plastic connector rather than on the flexible cable section.

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    • Grasp the plastic tab and pull the hard drive up and to the left, making sure that the metal bracket doesn't catch on the black plastic casing.

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    • Your laptop should look approximately like this.

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    • Remove the four black Torx screws located at the four corners of the hard drive bracket.

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    • Pull the connector cable out from the hard drive, applying even pressure while gently rocking up and down.

    • Be very careful to apply even pressure when removing the cable. If you torque too hard to either side, you may damage or destroy the hard drive's connector pins, rendering your data inaccessible.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

iRobot

Mitglied seit: 25/09/09

0 Reputation

4 Kommentare

In my humble opinion steps 6-12 are unnecessary. You can take out the harddrive cage without removing the processor card. Granted, you have to replace the drive in the cage while the cage is still connected to the PowerBook, but at the same time it saves you from having to remove/reapply the thermal paste on the CPU. I think for most of us that's a fair trade-off.

Erik D -

The Torx-T8 is unnecessary; eliminate step 8 and 9 unless you explicitly haven't yet changed the thermal interface material on your processor.

Removing the phillips-head screw in the area of the heatsink above the modem card (The yellow-circled screw in step 8's photo) and then lifting the plastic tab on the processor as shown in step 10, while sliding the processor slightly to the right, will permit a clean removal. Reverse procedure is to slide the processor in so that the tabs engage the metal cage, and then applying pressure to the processor board (remove RAM in the top slot first!) to engage the LIF connection.

Hope this saves someone a few minutes of rooting around for a torx driver.

peanuthorst -

I can confirm, you need not to remove the processor card. Remove the heat shield, lay down an antistatic foil on the processor card, carefully lift up the drive cage on the left side. Disconnect the drive on the right side of cage, remove the 4 screws holding the drive.

My Pismo had an old 12GB drive, changed it to an IDE SSD drive (KingSpec 64GB). Now I have 3 partions: MacOSX 10.2, MacOSX10.4.11 and MacOS9.2.2. It works very well without any problems!

Remember: must be Apple partions, not GUID!

Stefan Richter -

Not only does this work great, I can confirm that in the year of our lord 2022 you can use an mSATA drive with an mSATA to IDE adapter in the Pismo. Search on 68kmla for the information if you want to know 100% the drive you’re trying is going to work.

I can’t believe my Pismo has a 128G SSD in it! It’s faster, and though I don’t carry it around, it’s a little lighter too.

(and also, THANK YOU Erik, steps 6-12 aren’t needed just to swap the HDD, though I do recommend thermal paste of course for anyone who is able to do it).

Alex K -