Repairing a Nintendo DS that is not charging

Geschrieben von: Knut
  • Kommentare: 70
Repairing a Nintendo DS that is not charging

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Moderate

Schritte

18

Zeitaufwand

45 Minuten

Einleitung

If you have NO charge light on the DSL and the battery doesn't charge, the EM10 power supply filter on the motherboard may be faulty.

This guide will allow you to locate, test and replace the filter.

You will find replacement EM10 Filter's on the internet for a few dollars each.

Removing the EM10 and bypassing it may leave the motherboard unprotected against power supply noise. Remove and bypass at own risk!

  1. VAkqhUG2ctFuiKKh
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    • Unscrew the Phillips screw securing the battery cover to the lower case.

    • The screw remains captive to the battery cover.

    • Pry the battery cover upward with a spudger or fingernail, and lift out of the lower case.

    A Phillips #000 (PH000) seems to give a more secure fit (no slipping) than the stated Phillips #00.

    Ritchie -

    This will be good for mods

    Matthew Bevins -

    I'm having a problem getting the screw to unscrew. I have the right Phillips ( it was included with all the stuff I got this) Any tips. it doesn't look like the screw is spinning but i haven't played my Nintendo DS Lite for 3 years.

    whittlegirls -

    bonjour j’ai une petite question pour vous fais trés longtemps que j’ai pas utiliser mon nintendo ds lite et quand je le branche il allume 1 fois orange après il s’enteint même s’il est brancher ça veux tu dire qu’il faut que je change de batterie ? Merci

    Marie-Julie Richer -

    Soit un changement de batterie, soit la carte-mère a peut-être un court-circuit :/

    Polaris -

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    • Wedge the edge of a spudger in between the side of the battery and the lower case housing and pry upward to dislodge the battery.

    • Remove the battery from the DS Lite.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry both rubber feet off the DS Lite.

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    • Remove the following screws securing the lower case to the body of the DS Lite:

    • Two 4.3 mm gold Phillips screws

    • One 3.9 mm black Tri-Wing screw

    • One 3.3 mm silver Phillips screw

    • Three 5.5 mm silver Tri-Wing screws

    Not mentioned is to remove the jumper/connector below the word "SLOT-2". Case WILL NOT separate otherwise.

    Kayla -

    In the separation step below, the third picture show the case with the jumper/connector removed.

    Kayla -

    I cannot remove the tri-wing screws.

    Zach Smith -

    Same to me. I tried opening the case by force. Broke several parts of the motherboard…

    Leon -

    I can't remove the final tri wing screw in the battery section and it looks like I grinded the screw out too much for any screwdriver to work.Is there anything I can do?

    Quintin Harbin -

    From what I know, the only solution is to drill the screw out with a very small-headed drill :/

    Polaris -

    How to remove a stripped screw

    Gena FM -

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    • Remove the cover from the Game Pak slot before continuing.

    • Insert the edge of a spudger in between the lower and upper case near the top right corner of the DS Lite.

    • Carefully run the spudger along the right edge of the DS Lite, creating an opening in the process.

    • Continue running the spudger along the backside of the DS Lite until the majority of the lower case has been separated from the upper case.

    Don’t forget to remove the GBA cartridge placeholder before removing the backside

    Cees Jan de Boer -

    You forgot to mention to remove the battery compartment Phillips screw.

    nathan lowe -

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    • Lift the lower case away from the rest of the DS Lite.

    • Pull carefully. Some units are sealed with adhesive, and pulling too hard can damage the power switch.

    • When re-assembling, make sure that power switch and volume sliders are properly aligned with the switches on the motherboard.

    When you reassemble, make sure that you have the volume and power buttons in place, and make sure they are in the right position to line up with the switches on the motherboard. If they are not aligned, you risk snapping off the tiny switches on the motherboard (in which case, you are in for some soldering work).

    Eric -

    I should have read the comments first - broke off the power switch because I didn't know about aligning it. No way I can do soldering, guess it's for the dustbin :-(

    Emma -

    Whoops, remembered the power button but forgot the volume slider.

    I'll do it later.

    analbonghits -

    There is no way that the fact you have to line up the volume and power switch toggles upon reassembly is not in this guide. I just carefully followed this guide to replace the shoulder buttons but ruined my DS lite because I didn’t read these (practically hidden comments due to the design of the website) comments and broke the power switch. Thankfully there are 150 million DS I can buy second hand but “repeat the steps backwards” wasn’t sufficient in this repair. And that’s what this website is for.

    Ryan -

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    • Lift both trigger buttons out of the DS Lite.

    • The trigger buttons are held in very loosely by small metal pegs and springs. Don't lose track of these pieces.

    • The second picture shows the correct configuration of the trigger assembly for reassembly purposes.

    Anything after step 7 is unnecessary if having to replace the left or right trigger button(s).

    Nate River -

    The second picture does not show the correct configuration of the button spring. It should be flipped. Look at the trigger on the left of the larger image; that is the correct configuration.

    wrekone -

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    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the Wi-Fi antenna connector straight up from its socket on the Wi-Fi board.

    There is absolutely no need to follow steps 8-13 if like me, all you needed to do was access the face buttons for cleaning/replacement. Once you have unscrewed the motherboard from the front casing you can just flip it up, making sure you take the front screen with it. You will have full access to the buttons and all of their contacts. No need to remove the wifi board and microphone cable, etc. Also, replacing the ribbon cables for the screen is especially frustrating. Avoid taking them out at all costs, if you can.

    James McCarthy -

    what is the "etc."?

    Rita Cao -

    For those replacing the bottom screen, you can just skip to step 13 and go from there. No need to remove the wifi board, antenna, etc.

    lowestseries -

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    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the Wi-Fi board connector straight up from its socket on the motherboard.

    the i was working on had a different wifi connector. i thought a had broken it but the thing underneath it was just to balance it on the motherboard.

    BigD29853 -

    Do you have to put back in the WiFi board? As far as I know it does not require it to play games.

    Aiden Harlin -

    With the Nintendo servers now off, and all the games are playable without WiFi. That being said, I don’t know what is used for local multiplayer.

    Polaris -

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    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to separate the right edge of the Wi-Fi board from the motherboard.

    • The Wi-Fi board is secured to the motherboard with a layer of adhesive.

    • Remove the Wi-Fi board from the DS Lite.

    I took it apart successfully and I replaced the screen but I've put it back together and it the green light turns on for about 2seconds quiet dim, brighter for about 1 and then it turns off... I then took the wifi board out, and it turned on! What have I done to it and why doesn't it work with it and only without?!

    Brianlewis -

    Exact same symptoms for me : on boot up, green light would stay on for 1 second, then shut down. Without wifi, green light would stay on, but blank screens. In fact, it's because on boot up, DS will check if wifi is present, and stop if there is an error. Then, it checks for upper screen, and after that, for lower screen. If one of these is not responding, DS will turn off. I check my cables (upper screen) and DS started again with no problem.

    Alexandre -

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    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the microphone connector straight up from its socket on the motherboard.

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    • In the following steps you must pull the antenna cable between the DS Lite game cartridge reader and motherboard. Pull slowly and stop when you feel resistance to avoid damaging the cable or motherboard.

    • Position the antenna cable with its connector facing up and away from the motherboard using a spudger to hold it down lightly in the gap between chips on the motherboard.

    • Slowly and carefully pull the antenna cable until the cable connector is under the DS Lite game cartridge reader.

    • Continue pulling the cable until the cable connector comes out from under the game cartridge reader on the right side.

    • When reassembling and attempting to feed the antenna cable back under the game cartridge reader, the cable may kink or become difficult to feed through. If so, try feeding a piece of thread through first; then, tie the thread to one end of the cable connector and pull it through, guiding it past any obstructions.

    I can't for the life of me get this freaking antenna cable back when putting everything together, it keeps getting stuck under slot-1 ... how do you aid it through? I'm just pushing it through using the cable itself, but the connector gets stuck somewhere close to the other side and the cable pushing won't do anything but flex the cable.

    Peter Marquardt -

    I had some .015" solder that I fed through the other side and wrapped around the antenna cable to help guide it when I was feeding it back through.

    Josh McBroom -

    Fantastic guide, although you !@#$%^&* :P forgot to add that you need a Soldiering Kit at the LAST step, thanks..

    Nate River -

    I did mine without have to soldier, but then again I was cannibalizing the upper screen from one DS to another.

    Christopher Till -

    Tried to add this but unsure if it will stay but here is my advice for the cable feeding.

    When reassembling and attempting to feed the antenna cable back under the DS Lite game cartridge reader the cable will likely kink and be difficult to feed through.

    Therefore tie a piece of white cotton (or another visible colour) thread tightly around the cable, just below the connector. Then feed the cotton under the DS Lite game cartridge reader and through to the other side. Then gently guide the connector back through by pulling on the white thread and moving either up or down to clear obstacles.

    Joel Spencer -

    Attach a thread to the antenna wire BEFORE removing the antenna. Pull the antenna throught with the thread attached. After you get the antenna out, cut the thread from the antenna but LEAVE THE THREAD threaded thru the cartridge slot. Tape it to the cartridge slot so it doesn't fall out while you're working on the DS. After repairing, re-tie the thread to the antenna and use the thread to pull the antenna back thru to where it belongs. PULL GENTLY!

    J S -

    If u remove a bit material from the cover its actually possible to rout this cable over the game card slot.

    yKekS Yzz -

    Cable went right back thru for me! LOL!

    Kayla -

    What I do is run the antenna cable between my fingers to get it as straight as possible. Then I gently feed it under the cartridge slot slowly with the connector facing up. I stop at the slightest resistance and jiggle it back and forth to get it going again. Works every time.

    Deepak -

    it was ez until i tried to put it back >:(

    RealUmbreon440 -

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    • Use your fingernail or the edge of a spudger to carefully flip up the touchscreen ribbon cable retaining flap.

    • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the touchscreen ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

    The little black ribbon clip broke off and now I can't put it back on. What do I do now???

    Peter Diaz -

    Same Problem here :( touc dosnt work anymore

    Christian Zimmermann -

    There should be an added caution remark when removing the ribbon cable from the connector. If the black clip breaks, you're screwed. I have found the connector on another website for about $6. Then the issue is having the right tools to remove the broken connector and soldering on the new one.

    Ted -

    How in the world do you get the ribbion cable back in there?

    brent buser -

    I think this is the most difficult step! You need to be most cautious here!

    Karsza M -

    This requires care to make sure the black clip does not break off. If it does, replacing that connector will be a microsoldering job likely to exceed the value of the board.

    It is also worth noting, that you can simply leave this connector as you found it and not remove the ribbon cable, and still complete this repair. Unless you intend to remove the lower LCD from the mainboard or if it is interfering with the microphone cable (white) routing, it will not be an issue.

    Leaving this connected will also help keep the lower LCD from flopping around when you remove the mainboard.

    Christian DeYong -

    This is tricky! I used my finger nail to open it since I was scared to put too much strenght with a spudger. Be really careful when moving the retaining flap. Just open it 90°, no more or you’ll breack it!

    Putting back the ribbon of the (new) touch screen was the hardest part. The ribbon was bent to the side and my fingers too big to grab it withouth bumping on the mother board.

    I finally found that holding the mobo with my left hand, looking at the ribbon from behind and pushing it with my index was more convenient, although my index was bumping on the retaining flap, thus partially closing it. After many trials and sweat, I finally inserted it and closed the flap! But the ribbon detached from te slot! :’( I put it back easily this time (after reopening the flap of course). And closed the retaining flap, pushing a bit harder this time, making sure I could feel a “click” confirming the proper closing. Don’t put too much strenght on it though!

    The slot to insert it is so tiny! Use a magnifying glass if you can.

    Guilhem Gobet -

    How do I reconnect the cable? Or should it be out?

    Aiden -

    The microscopic flap came off in this step and I think you can’t ever put it back on, given you have no space to work with. This should really be explained better.

    Julien Vandermeersch -

    Yeah the instructions should clearly say don't bend the flap back more than 90 degrees. I recommend closing it as soon as you remove the ribbon cable so that it doesn't get caught on something and break while you're working on the board.

    Deepak -

    Has anyone had any luck replacing the retaining flap if it just falls out? Mines not broken, I just can't figure out how to get it back in.

    IslandGo -

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vQQOG1h...

    aaron -

    This step permanently ruined my DS Lite. The pictures aren’t helpful at all.

    Leon -

    You don’t need to remove this flap if you’re not removing the touchscreen (and even so, you can do it later). The touch and LCD screen can come out with the motherboard, so this cable doesn’t interfere with the disassembly.

    George Marques -

    The cable won’t go back in, and got damaged whilst I attempted to put it in.

    Stevemmaahd -

    This step didn't warn that the black retaining flap is easily breakable. Not only can it come off easily but hinges can break off. Unknown if kapton tape will be able to hold this in or if this part can be ordered third party. Very stupid explanation of the step. Broke my digitizer permanently while only trying to make a minor repair. Looks like this is a common complaint and the guide should be immediately taken down, edited, and then only put back up when it is safe.

    Guide should have to explain how to mend or replace this part if it breaks since it's such a common problem.

    jen dickson -

    This cable is so difficult to get it back in.

    Max Playz -

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    • Remove the two 3.4 mm Phillips screws securing the motherboard to the upper case.

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    • Open the display enough to use your finger to push the front edge of the motherboard up and away from the upper case.

    • Do not try to remove the motherboard, as it is still connected to the upper display via the upper LCD ribbon cable.

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    • Use your fingernail or the flat edge of a spudger to carefully flip up the upper LCD ribbon cable retaining flap.

    • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the motherboard away from the DS Lite to separate the upper LCD ribbon cable from its socket on the motherboard.

    • Remove the motherboard from the DS Lite.

    • Now you may open the retaining flap for the lower LCD screen in the same way and separate the lower LCD screen from the motherboard.

    this part on putting it back together is a straight nightmare, anyone got some tips on doing this quickly? i'm just getting a flickering bottom screen which is supposed to be an upper display connection problem, not sure if i'm getting the ribbon cable in deep enough. or an up close view of it in there so i know im not forcing it

    Corbin dallas -

    I don't think there's a quick way for this, but I can tell you that the piece at the end is supposed to fit in all the way, and stop when you get to the corners of the bottom of it. A better way to explain this: put it in until you no longer see the gold part of it, or until it reaches the orange part of it.

    SquidCake -

    After my first reassembly, the top screen was not working (bottom screen briefly flashind and DS turning off imediatly after swithcing on).

    I found out it is the top screen that is not connected correctly.

    You have to insert the ribbon until the part which is wider than the rest of the ribbon, almost bumps on the white connector.

    This was too difficult with just my (too big) fingers. I used the spudger to push the ribbon from behind and maintain it when closing the retaining flap. This is kinda tricky, but it worked!

    Guilhem Gobet -

    Guilhem's point is crucial - the ribbon connectors wider wings must be only a miniscule fraction away from the connector, or you'll get the flash screen of death. This is well worth checking especially as the later stages of manipulating the ribbon through the silver ring (if doing a full shell replacement) can make you feel like you're damaging the ribbon cable. Also check to make sure the black clip is fully closed, otherwise even the smallest movement during reassembly will pull it back out.

    Casey -

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    • The EM10 charging filter is located next to the power connector on the motherboard.

    • If the filter is missing or obviously broken, move on to STEP 18

    • Use a multimeter to test the EM10 filter - measure the resistance between each of the yellow solder pads, and then between each of the cyan solder pads. If everything is OK you should have close to 0 Ohms between each set of pads. You should NOT have any connection between the cyan pads and yellow pads. If the filter fails either test it needs to be replaced.

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    • Remove the faulty EM10 filter. Use a soldering iron to melt the solder and gently lift off the filter with tweezers or pliers, being careful not to pull the copper tracks off the motherboard.

    • A replacement EM10 filter is available HERE (as at 01/01/12) no doubt other suppliers exist

    • Solder new EM10 filter into place, ensuring correct orientation. If required, check the new filter with a multimeter to confirm before installing.

    • Alternate method - Bridge the solder pads that correspond with each set of pads - yellow to yellow and cyan to cyan

    • Bypassing the EM10 filter may affect the system performance and is not recommended

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

Knut

Mitglied seit: 06/11/10

719 Reputation

11 Kommentare

you really don't need to remove the wifi board completely, just pop off the cable with a plastic tool or a small flat head even. Getting the cable back under slot one is tricky, and I repair these for a living. Straighten out the cable out first, there are two clear paths back to the other side, parallel to the 2 little twin fuses just at the 7 o'clock of the EM10, and another just above the EM10 itself, again running parallel.

georgemasukawa -

Actually, I have found success by using a conductive pen on Fuse 1 and Fuse 2 and reassembling. Try this before actually taking out a part that belongs there. Watch this video for an easy explanation. It worked for me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=502qoZO4...

dbivens -

Why do they even make a filter? Is dumb, also they left it on the bottom where is harder to replace, they should it just had a second smaller battery that would be easy to replace, or something more efficient, more like a strong resistor or something else, also those parts shouldNOT be solder with the board, they should come integrated inside, which is better than javing them solder.

Fernando Salazar -

they made it because they didnt know better back then, they also might not of had the tech

Photo140 -

Had a DS Lite with error as described: Console worked fine, but the battery won't charge. No light.

At first i exchanged the battery, then i replaced both fuses F1 and F2, replaced the filter, replaced even the power connector. Still same error.

All not worth the effort :(

Bought a console with broken displays and took mainboard from there. Way less expensive ...

oochojski -

good for you i might do that now

Photo140 -

Man, I can't find an em10. Plus soldered some lead onto the fuses to see if it'll work. No luck.

Tarun Robin -

i know im a little new to the convo and not many people worry about the ds lite but i broke the em10, is there any specific orientation to the em10, i mean obviously it goes in as image showed but does it matter if i rotate it 180 degrees? thanks in advance!

Bitshawn Tech -

Did you ever get an answer to this? Gonna have to do this repair in a few days.

Michael Spahn -

Also curious if you figured out if the orientation matters.

bunni -

I just did this replacement on my own DS. The orientation does not seem to matter beyond just the horizontal direction as it's rectangular and not square.

Kory Dondzila -