Samsung Galaxy S6 Austausch der Tochterplatine

Geschrieben von: Dante Mazzanti

Kommentare: 153

Samsung Galaxy S6 Austausch der Tochterplatine

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Schwierig

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

45 Minuten - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt dir, wie du die Tochterplatine austauschen kannst. Die Tochterplatine enthält den Ohrhörer Anschluss, die LED Softbuttons und die USB Buchse. Wenn du Probleme beim Aufladen hast oder der AUX Eingang nicht richtig arbeitet, ist der Ersatz der Tochterplatine ein guter Anfangspunkt.

Für diese Anleitung muss die Rückscheibe entfernt werden. Das zerstört den Klebstoff mit dem sie befestigt ist. Folge dieser Anleitung, um die Rückscheibe wieder einzubauen.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Schritt 1

Fahre mit einer Büroklammer oder einem SIM Karten Auswurfwerkzeug in das kleine Loch am SIM Karten Slot. Er befindet sich auf der gleichen Seite wie die Einschalttaste des Smartphones.
Drücke, um das SIM Kartenfach auszuwerfen.
Drücke nicht zu fest, da du sonst unter Umständen das SIM Kartenfach beschädigst.

It really needs to be stated at the outset that if doing this repair to replace the daughterboard, there is a high likelihood that the display will be destroyed (even if you don’t break the display, the foil backing on it will likely be destroyed rendering it unusable). The PDF version of this guide states this at the beginning, but this online version does not.

David White - 14/03/19

Done. Thanks for the tip!

Minor editor - 23/09/19

Schritt 2

Entferne das SIM Kartenfach vom Smartphone.

Schritt 3

Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können.
Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.
Für sich drehende Mikrowellen: Stelle sicher, dass der Teller sich drehen kann. Wenn der iOpener hängenbleibt kann er überhitzen und sogar Feuer fangen.

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - 06/12/16

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - 29/12/16

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - 30/01/17

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - 19/07/17

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - 16/09/17

I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

ian cheong - 22/06/19

Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

Tim Feyaerts - 13/07/19

The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

polleyphony - 28/12/19

The iOpener did not work at all for me.

I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

Mike Jeanette - 29/12/19

Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

Kyle - 05/01/20

The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

laurentvidu - 01/02/20

I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

breadandbits - 24/07/20

My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

trebor65 - 11/10/20

My experience pt2

Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

trebor65 - 11/10/20

Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

gazza667 - 16/11/20

I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

Dennis - 10/01/21

Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

Manu R - 05/02/21

If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

mpulliam - 07/02/21

Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

Esmond Pitt - 03/04/21

Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

doug - 23/04/21

I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

Richard O'Brien - 22/05/21

No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

nin10doh -

#### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

T z - 06/06/21

I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

Mizzoo, s.r.o. -

I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

Randal Haufler -

I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

janderson martin -

WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

Run Up A Tree -

I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

marcelflueeler -

I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

Tom Weber -

iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

jharrison -

Schritt 4

Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden.
Im Verlauf der Reparatur kühlt sich der iOpener wieder ab. Erhitze ihn dann noch einmal für dreißig Sekunden.
Achte darauf, den iOpener während der Reparatur nicht zu überhitzen. Eine Überhitzung bringt den iOpener möglicherweise zum Platzen.
Berühre niemals den iOpener, falls er aufgeschwollen aussieht.
Falls der iOpener in der Mitte immer noch zu heiß ist, um ihn anzufassen, dann benutze ihn weiter, bis er ein wenig herunter gekühlt ist, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt. Ein ordnungsgemäß erhitzter iOpener sollte für bis zu 10 Minuten warm bleiben.

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - 22/12/16

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - 13/01/17

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - 14/07/17

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - 29/08/17

All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

Greg Latta - 12/09/19

I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

dave - 01/12/17

If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

Patrick Storey - 01/01/18

I agree with this.

Jarl Friis -

I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

mark fitzgerald - 24/04/18

30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

Karl Marble - 06/07/18

I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

Bernhard Keim - 30/01/19

Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

Collins -

Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

Larry Bennett - 24/02/19

I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

Fixrights - 30/04/19

iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

digital_only - 13/10/19

Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

Berard Romain - 23/12/19

Bonjour,

Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

Claire Miesch - 23/12/19

breadandbits - 24/07/20

Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

G Trieste - 05/02/21

Get a heat gun.

alesha adamson - 09/09/20

I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

Dennis - 31/01/21

I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

cvela90 - 23/06/21

After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

Collins -

It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

Sergey Kofanov -

I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

manningrl -

You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

William Draheim -

Schritt 5

Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.
Der Beutel wird sehr heiß, sei vorsichtig beim Gebrauch. Lege dir am besten einen Topflappen bereit.

I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

Cobus de Beer - 22/07/18

I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

Billinski -

Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

breadandbits - 24/07/20

I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

John - 07/09/20

I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

Robin - 02/10/20

This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

Mark -

If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

Jarl Friis -

Schritt 6

Solltest du keine Mikrowelle haben oder benutzen wollen, folge diesem Schritt, um den iOpener in kochendem Wasser zu erhitzen.
Fülle einen Topf oder eine tiefe Pfanne mit ausreichend Wasser, um den iOpener komplett damit bedecken zu können.
Erhitze das Wasser (ohne den iOpener) bis es kocht. Schalte die Wärmezufuhr (Platte) aus.
Lege den iOpener für etwa 2-3 Minuten in das heiße Wasser. Stelle sicher, dass der iOpener komplett mit Wasser bedeckt ist.
Nimm den iOpener mit einer Küchenzange aus dem Wasser heraus.
Trockne den iOpener gründlich mit einem Küchen- oder Handtuch ab.
Der iOpener speichert die Hitze, und ist daher sehr heiß. Sei vorsichtig, und halte den iOpener nur an den Endlaschen, nicht in der Mitte.
Der iOpener kann jetzt verwendet werden. Solltest du den iOpener erneut erwärmen müssen, erhitze das Wasser nochmal bis zum Siedepunkt, schalte die Wärmezufuhr aus, und lege den iOpener wieder für 2-3 Minuten vollständig in das Wasser.

What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

alexdelarge103@gmail.com -

Use a hair dryer

Edited To the max -

2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

Robert Garcia -

When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

Robert Garcia -

Schritt 7

Wenn du das Smartphone öffnest, werden seine wasserfesten Dichtungen beschädigt. Halte Ersatzklebstoff bereit, bevor du zu repariren beginnst, oder vermeide es das Gerät beim Zusammenbau Feuchtigkeit auszusetzen, ohne den Klebstoff zu ersetzen.
Falls das Glas gesplittert ist, fixiere das gesamte Panel mit Paketklebeband. So wird es zusammengehalten.
Lege den erwärmten iOpener für etwa zwei Minuten über das ganze Panel, um den Kleber rund um den Rand des Glases zu lösen.
Wahrscheinlich musst du den iOpener mehrfach erwärmen und wieder auflegen, um das Smartphone heiß genug zu bekommen. Befolge die Anleitung für den iOpener, um Überhitzung zu vermeiden.
Verschiebe den iOpener, um den restlichen Bereich des Panels für weitere zwei Minuten zu erwärmen.
Du kannst auch einen Haartrockner, eine Heizplatte oder ein Heißluftgebläse benutzen. Sei aber vorsichtig und überhitze das Smartphone nicht. Das OLED Display und der Akku sind durch zu viel Wärme leicht zu beschädigen.

the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure

get it fixed - 21/03/17

After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.

Jae Chung - 30/03/17

haha, the same happened for me after using a hair dryer. While still hot, the paint peeled of very easily. (too bad the mid-frame visually blocks most of the circuits…)

Michael - 12/09/20

I used a purpose built heating device at 100 degree celsius. Lower temperatures didn't work.

ken - 23/08/17

I used a blow dryer, attached my multimeter heat sensor to the back to monitor the temperature. At 54 degrees Celsius I could separate the back with a suction cup from my phone without damaging the paint.

LRD - 30/10/18

I gave up on the hot bag after 4 heat and apply cycles. I was only getting the back up to 60c using an infrared thermometer. I switched to a harbor freight 1500w heat gun set to Low, moving constantly around the back, until the back read 95c. The back came off easily at that point.

Nathan Wray - 07/12/18

I found another site that said temps of 203F/95C were required to soften the glues. Once I started using those temps with my heat gun, as well as a tool I made by just cutting the flat front/back panel from a package of screws (any plastic package that has a flat panel will work) , I had the back off in no time. Had I continued to use the plastic pick shown in the instructions, I really doubt I would have gotten the back off since I couldn’t get enough force on the back from my suction cup. The thin package plastic acted almost like a knife as I moved it around the outside edge. WARNING: If you have to reheat the back, REMOVE THE PACKAGE PLASTIC!! It will start to melt from the heat of a heat gun. Good Luck!!

morttormjch - 21/03/19

I had a pristine s6 edge I’m replacing the battery in. I can agree with many others about the amount of heart needed and need to where gloves. I had to heat several times using a heat gun. After several attempts phone broke free from suction cup went flying and now I have a phone with broken screen. Oh well, glad it’s not my primary phone. After getting it above 100c, the back glass finally started to separate. You need another person to be ready with a pick. Once you get one pick in, the rest is .

Brian Gillan - 19/07/20

Neither I had any success with the iopener. I ended up heating with a hair dryer. The metallic edges become quite hot.

BTW: My phone’s “Rear Glass” is actually plastic. It didn’t seem like it would crack very easily.

Michael - 12/09/20

To get an even heat distribution at just the right temperature to easily pry the back off I used a steam iron, dry, set between wool and cotton. To hold down the phone I clamped it at the long edges with 2 strips of 1/4” furniture grade plywood cut at 7 degrees, screwed to 2’ 2x6; and then clamped the 2x6 to my work table. This made it much easier to persuade to back off without any oops!

Michael Bielec - 26/02/21

I used a hot and cold gel pad usually intended for injuries. It needed about 4 cycles of warming the phone but then worked like a charm.

Sam Turner - 17/05/21

Schritt 8

Wenn die Glasscheibe so heiß ist, dass du sie kaum anfassen kannst, kannst du einen Saugnapf nahe der Unterkante anbringen.
Hebe den Saugnapf hoch, um einen kleinen Spalt unter dem rückseitigen Glas zu schaffen. Setze dort ein Plektrum ein.
Wenn du willst, kannst du noch ein paar Tropfen Isopropylalkohol in den Spalt einfließen lassen. Das schwächt den Kleber und hilft bei den folgenden Schritten.

If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.

I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.

dougpender - 26/09/15

Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!

Jessie Brooks - 15/08/16

Be careful during this step- reapply heat before attempting this one (battery issues tend to melt internal “areas” ) and this area is most prone to crack during the lifting of the back plate.

[deleted] - 19/12/18

I think it is just about impossible to do this without at least removing some paint on the edges. Order a new back before you attempt this. It has the adhesive already on it and costs less than $10 on eBay.

Thomas Hayes - 01/09/19

In order to get in more easily, I normally use the iFlex (the metal one) which is thin enough to create a little space, and then i insert a thinner plastic sheet, just like the default screen protector you might find on some huawei or xiaomi phones. That plus half a drop of alcohol should do the trick. Use caution and be very patient.

Stefano Restuccia - 16/10/19

Ridiculous. I put a heat gun on mine for 30 seconds, 3 times, couldn’t get the screen to move AT ALL while pulling very hard with suction cups.

Enough of this ‘you don’t get to mess with the battery’ nonsense. Quit screwing people over. Also, I love my ifixit kit. I had to make the post less negative.

Adam Talbott - 10/03/21

Really struggling removing the screen. It’s not budging at all.

Paul Knight - 07/04/21

Schritt 9

Fahre mit dem Plektrum entlang der Unterkante des Smartphones um den Kleber, der das rückseitige Glas festhält, aufzutrennen.
Es ist dann hilfreich, wenn du danach das Plektrum an Ort und Stelle lässt und für den nächsten Schritt ein weiteres Plektrum benutzst. Wenn das Plektrum stecken bleibt verhindert es, dass sich der eben aufgetrentte Kleber wieder verbindet.
Erwärme das rückseitige Glas immer wieder, um zu verhindern, dass der Klebstoff wieder erkaltet und fest wird.

Be careful that the bottom of the phone is well heated, and add a drop or so of isopropyl alcohol. When I removed the back glass of my S6, some of the black coating on the glass stayed stuck to the adhesive, so to return my phone to its original appearance, I’ll have to get a new back glass.

Gary F - 28/05/19

I needed help of a second person to insert the first pick. Apart from that, it was a one person job for me.

Michael - 12/09/20

Schritt 10

Wiederhole diese Prozedur des Erwärmens und Aufschneidens für die restlichen drei Seiten des Smartphones.
Lasse ein Plektrum unter jeder Kante stecken, damit sich der Kleber nicht wieder verbinden kann.

At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel

I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.

Wayne Lyell - 03/02/18

I used a card like the ones people use to play poker or any card game with. Only one was needed to separate the back without any damage to the paint.

LRD - 30/10/18

Be sure to apply a decent amount of heat when removing the last bit of the rear glass, cracked the rear of my screen (only a small amount mind) trying too use too much force not enough heat for the last spot.

spank2103 - 09/11/18

Schritt 11

Schneide mit einem Plektrum durch alle noch verbliebenen Kleberreste.
Entferne das rückseitige Glas.

The rear glass is very fragile. I cracked mine across the camera opening while cleaning off the old sealant. Next time ( I will have to order one and do it again…doh) I’ll place it on a flat surface while cleaning it.

Greg Scott - 27/01/19

This is also a really good time to remove the SIM tray

John Murphy - 09/10/19

Schritt 12

So wird das neue Rückseitenglas eingebaut:
Ziehe alle verbliebenen Kleberreste mit einer Pinzette von der Glasscheibe und vom Rahmen des Smartphones ab.
Reinige die Klebeflächen mit hoch konzentriertem Isopropylalkohol (mindestens 90%) und einem fusselfreien Tuch. Wische nur in eine Richtung, nicht vor und zurück. Die Oberfläche wird so für den neuen Kleber vorbereitet.
Ziehe die Schutzfolie vom neuen Rückseitenglas ab und richte es sorgfältig am Rahmen des Smartphones aus. Drücke dann das Glas am Rahmen fest.
Wenn du dein altes Rückseitenglas wieder einbauen willst, oder dein Ersatzteil keine Klebestreifen vorinstalliert hat, dann folge dieser Anleitung.

You should note that the adhesive strip may need to be fully removed from the frame in order to proceed with repairs. The adhesive on my phone covered all of the screws exposed in the next step.

Sean Cruz - 01/05/17

When I did my battery, the adhesive stayed almost 100% on the back glass and was still in good shape. What didn’t remain attached only lifted slightly and I was able to coax it back to its original location with tweezers. I didn’t bother to remove and replace the adhesive layer because mine was still good. I set the glass out of the way where it wouldn’t get dirt on the adhesive while I finished the battery swap. I added some additional heat (hair dryer) after reattaching the glass to make sure the adhesive made the best seal.

Wayne Thomason - 10/11/18

Schritt 13

Entferne die dreizehn 3,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00, mit denen der Mittelrahmen am Smartphone befestigt ist.

Make sure you do not mix up these thirteen screws with a hidden 14th screw under the mid-frame chassis, on the left side of the headphone port, on daughter-board. This 14th screw is shorter than the other screws, so make sure you do not replace it with one of the longer screws. It will push up against the front glass and lift it away from the adhesive.

David Whyte - 07/02/18

Some of the female threads are soft plastic and will strip out easily (especially those near the bottom). I was pressing down too hard when removing these screws, and several of them stripped out. The frame still screwed together, but I couldn’t get them very tight.

Jordan Butler - 09/09/20

Schritt 14

Achte unbedingt darauf, dass du den SIM-Kartenschub ausgeworfen hast, bevor du diesen Schritt hier durchführst.
Fasse die Kante der Mittelrahmeneinheit und halte sie gut fest.
Drücke den Akku nach unten und hebe gleichzeitig die Mittelrahmeneinheit hoch, damit sie sich vom restlichen Smartphone löst.
Achte darauf, dass der Mittelrahmen sich nicht an der Kopfhörerbuchse oder der Ladebuchse verhakt, während du ihn anhebst.
Wenn der Mittelrahmen teilweise abgelöst ist, führe vorsichtig ein Plektrum um die Kanten des restliche Smartphone herum, um den oberen Teil des Mittelrahmens abzulösen.
Setze das Plektrum nicht versehentlich zwischen der Glasscheibe und dem Display ein.
Um Schäden an der Kopfhörerbuchse zu vermeiden, entferne zuerst den oberen Teil des Mittelrahmens, und drücke den Mittelrahmen dann nach unten, um ihn von der Kopfhörerbuchse zu lösen.
Falls der Mittelrahmen sich nur schwer abtrennen lässt, kannst du die Kanten des Displays mit einem iOpener erhitzen, um den Kleber am Display aufzuweichen,

FIRMLY GRASP IT! - Patrick

Armen Orbelyan - 05/08/16

%#*@ coulda told me sooner

Geronimo Jones -

Bei diesem Schritt sicher sein, dass SIM Card Fach entfernt ist!

zikal - 21/01/17

I found the glue still very sticky here, i had to go around with my picks to free it, its very stuck with a UK version, beware!!

databeat1 - 30/01/17

I damaged my screen here a bit, be careful not too slide your pick between the digitizer and the screen.

Anton - 22/03/18

i suggest to apply heat on the corners of the front screen to lose the adhesive a lil bit and push from the bottom back of the phone right where the wireless charger is because of the charging port

get it fixed - 21/03/17

When grabbing from the bottom, you fun the risk of damaging the charging port and headphone jack. I would suggest starting from the top. This is because the two ports at the bottom slide down into the frame. There is also adhesive that will give you a little resistance.

Alex Philip - 13/04/17

Step 18 is not correct, you have to start from the top. You can damage the charge port

Daniel Yaben - 17/12/17

On mine the adhesive actually tore away part of the colored film on the back of the screen glass rather than separating from it. I’m guessing applying heat to the screen corners first would help avoid this (I didn’t). https://imgur.com/a/V7vZQ

Brian Hardie - 28/03/18

Don’t stick a pick into the screen side of the frame. You will almost certainly start to separate the digitizer and LCD. Plus there is hardly anything to pry against anyway.

Thomas Hayes - 01/09/19

Schritt 15

Hebe die Mittelrahmen Einheit nach oben hin weg, um sie vom Rest des Smartphones zu trennen.

Achtung! Bei meiner Reperatur, besonders bei Schritt 14, Auf gar keinen Fall versuchen den Kleber mit einem der Plektren zu lösen. Dort kann man schnell zwischen Displayrahmen und Glas rutschen und so das Display beschädigen!!!

TheECanyon - 30/01/19

Schritt 16

Trenne den Akkustecker mit Hilfe eines Spudgers von der Fassung auf dem Motherboard.

Schritt 17

Löse mit dem spitzen Ende eines Spudgers die Bluetooth- und Wi-Fi Antennenkabelstecker aus ihren Fassungen auf dem Motherboard.

This portion of the repair caused me problems after phone was closed up. The bluetooth cable on the left of the phone was not placed back into its cable track and was pinched off by screen once frame was placed in metal housing.

Sebastian Diaz - 28/07/18

Schritt 18

Trenne den Home Button Kabelstecker mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers.

Schritt 19

Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Displaykabeleinheit vom Motherboard zu trennen.

Does taking the motherboard out wipe the phone?

Uil'yam - 10/05/17

No, after disconnecting the battery there’s no way for info to be moved from the memory, until it’s connected to a power source again.

Wayne Lyell - 03/02/18

Schritt 20

Trenne den Stecker der Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher-Einheit vom Motherboard.

Schritt 21

Hebe das Motherboard am Ende bei der Kamera, um des vom Displayrahmen zu trennen.
Du musst eventuell einige der Flachbandkabel aus dem Weg schieben, während du das Motherboard anhebst. Wenn sich das Motherboard nur schwer anheben lässt, kontrolliere, ob es ganz abgetrennt ist und sich nicht an irgendwelchen Kabeln verfangen hat.
Entferne das Motherboard noch nicht vollständig — es ist noch mit einem Flachbandkabel an der Unterseite des Motherboards befestigt.

Schritt 22

Löse den Flachbandkabelstecker des Daughterboards mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers aus seinem Anschluss auf der Unterseite des Motherboards.

Schritt 23

Wenn das Displayglas stark zersplittert ist, dann klebe es mit Klebeband ab, damit die Splitter zusammen bleiben und das Ablösen einfacher wird.
Erwärme erneut den iOpener.
Lege den iOpener über das S6 Display. Lasse ihn dort zwei Minuten lang liegen und erwärme dann die andere Hälfte des Displays.
Wahrscheinlich musst du den iOpener mehrfach erwärmen und wieder auflegen, um das Smartphone heiß genug zu bekommen. Beachte die Anleitung für den iOpener, um eine Überhitzung zu vermeiden.

Schritt 24

Führe ein Plektrum an der akkuseitigen Kante des Smartphones zwischen Rahmen und Display in einem steilen Winkel ein.
Wenn du das richtig machst, ergibt sich ein kleiner Spalt zwischen Displayrahmen und Displayeinheit.
Wenn du das falsch machst, dann siehst du das Plektrum durch die Glasscheibe. In diesem Fall ziehst du einfach das Plektrum wieder heraus und probierst es noch einmal.

I was too vigorous with the pick, and maybe not pointed up (away from the glass) enough, but I got the pick far enough into the digitiser that it peeled the glass off of the digitiser. Ruined it. If you can see the pick through the glass STOP.

Buck - 11/07/18

in my own opinion, a better/easier method is to actually remove the battery after disconnecting all of the connections from the daughter/logic board, and if you slide a pick inbetween the plastic to where its visible where the battery originally was, you’re doing it correctly. if you can see it through the glass screen as if you were looking at your phone, you’re going between the LCD/Digitizer Assembly, and the Protective Glass Screen Overlay. If you’re removing the LCD/Digitizer/Glass Screen as a Whole, being able to see the pick through the battery compartment is a great, and easy way to know youre okay. This is a Great repair guide, but Repairs Universe on YT did an extremely thorough job on walking me through the replacement procedure and LCD&Digitzer removal.

Josh Baldwin - 06/05/19

Hi Josh,

I agree that having that visual cue is a very handy option. If you are also replacing the battery, this is a great option!

We opted not to suggest battery removal because of safety reasons. We recommend against re-installing used batteries. Any prying action or bend could have compromised the battery even if you can’t see it, and cause problems in the long term.

Arthur Shi - 07/05/19

Schritt 25

Schiebe das Plektrum an der Displaykante nach unten um die Klebeverbindung darunter aufzutrennen.
Halte vor der Tochterplatine an, um die empfindliche kapazitive Taste unter dem Display zu umgehen.
Wenn das Auftrennen schwergängig wird, dann erwärme den iOpener und lege ihn wieder auf.
Lasse nach dem Auftrennen das Plektrum in der Displayseite stecken, damit das Display nicht wieder am Rahmen festklebt.

Schritt 26

Fahre mit dem Plektrum von der Kopfhörerbuchse bis nach dem Ladeanschluss an der Unterkante des Smartphones entlang.
Setze das Plektrum nicht tiefer als 6 mm ein, um Beschädigungen am Home Button zu vermeiden.

Schritt 27

Setze ein Plektrum ungefähr 12 mm tief an der unteren Ecke des Displays, nahe der Kopfhörerbuchse ein.
Achte beim Einsetzen des Plektrums sehr auf das Flachbandkabel der Taste. Das Kabel ist empfindlich und reißt leicht. Wenn sich das Plektrum nur schwer einsetzen lässt oder das Flachbandkabel zu stark gedehnt wird, dann erwärme erneut.
Lasse das Plektrum unter dem Display stecken, damit die Taste sich nicht wieder mit dem Display verkleben kann.
Wenn du doch eine der kapazitiven Tasten oder der Flachbandkabel beschädigst, dann kannst du die Tochterplatineneinheit austauschen. Sie enthält neue kapazitive Tasten.

Schritt 28

Setze ein Plektrum ungefähr 12 mm tief an der entgegengesetzten unteren Ecke des Displays ein.
Achte beim Einsetzen des Plektrums sehr auf das Flachbandkabel der Taste. Das Kabel ist empfindlich und reißt leicht. Wenn sich das Plektrum nur schwer einsetzen lässt oder das Flachbandkabel zu stark gedehnt wird, dann erwärme erneut.
Lasse das Plektrum unter dem Display stecken, damit die Taste sich nicht wieder mit dem Display verkleben kann.

Schritt 29

Fahre mit einem Plektrum entlang der gegenüber vom Akku liegenden Seite des Smartphones, um den Klebstoff darunter aufzutrennen.
Lasse das Plektrum nach dem Auftrennen in der Seite des Displays stecken, damit das Display nicht wieder mit dem Rahmen verkleben kann.

Schritt 30

Fahre mit einem Plektrum entlang der Oberseite des Mobiltelefons in Richtung des Vibrationsmotors.
Ziehe das Plektrum leicht heraus, um die Lautsprecherabdeckung zu umfahren.

Schritt 31

Heble vorsichtig mit einem Plektrum die akkunahe Seite des Rahmens weg vom Display.
Wenn sich Rahmen und Display nicht leicht trennen lassen, dann schneide mit einem Plektrum durch alle restlichen Klebeverbindungen. Wenn das Auftrennen schwergängig wird, dann erwärme erneut mit einem iOpener und lege ihn auf.
Entferne das Display noch nicht ganz. Das Displaykabel führt immer noch durch den Rahmen.

This should really be pointed out more than it is. I've gone through a few phones by destroying the IC. Of course if you're doing the repair without instructions it's no ones fault but your own. (guilty) But... This warning should be in BOLD and CAPPED with blinking lights and arrows.

Felix Robinson - 24/02/17

Schritt 32

Fädle das Displayflexkabel durch die Öffnung im Rahmen, so dass die rechte Kante des Displays ganz abgetrennt werden kann.

Schritt 33

Bevor du das neue Display einbaust, musst du unbedingt alle Spuren von altem Kleber vom Rahmen beseitigen, achte besonders darauf, kleine Glassplitter zu entfernen.
Reinige nach dem Beseitigen von Klebstoffresten und Glassplittern die Klebeflächen mit 90%igem (oder mehr) Isopropylalkohol und einem fusselfreiem Lappen oder einem Kaffeefilterpapier. Wische nur in eine Richtung, nicht vor und zurück.
Wenn der Rahmen verbogen ist, oder irgendwelche störenden Glas- oder Klebereste verblieben sind, wird das neue Display nicht richtig passen und kann beschädigt werden. Wenn nötig, tausche den Rahmen aus.
Die beste Methode, den neuen Bildschirm zu befestigen, ist, ihn mit einem passend zugeschnittenen doppelseitigem Klebeband festzukleben. Bringe das Band zunächst auf der Rückseite des Bildschirms an, und führe dann sorgfältig das Displaykabel durch den Rahmen. Richte den Bildschirm aus und drücke ihn fest.

Great illustrations and the best tutorial I have seen. Steps are easy and simple to follow.

Rafael - 06/01/17

Really good to follow reparing the phone. But i'm afarid of seeing other word like korea

James - 23/04/17

C'etait extrêmement difficile pour ma part.

It was extremely difficult for me.

Easy Repair - 30/10/18

Umm, I bought the ifixit screen repair kit and battery repair kit, but you guys never talk about how, when, and where the white adhesive goes, what step, etc… I also have two blue strips that I”m not sure what they’re for. ???

John R - 26/05/19

Schritt 34

Drehe die einzelne 3,0 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #00 heraus, die die Tochterplatine am Displayrahmen befestigt.

What happens if that screw isn't there?

Sare - 18/04/20

Schritt 35

Drehe den Displayrahmen so, dass der Homebutton zu dir zeigt.
Setze die Spitze eines Spudgers in die Rille neben dem rechten LED Softbutton Kabel.
Löse vorsichtig das LED Kabel aus dem Displayrahmen.
Sei sehr vorsichtig, wenn du die Kabel aus dem Plastikrahmen schälst, sie sind empfindlich und zerreissen leicht.

I was transferring the daughterboard to a different frame. Flipped up the led cables and realized that the LEDs remained in the recessed area on the old frame. I thought these LEDs would peel off as a unit with the cables. It did not. Is this normal?

Lloyd Campbell - 13/05/19

Schritt 36

Setze die Spitze eines Spudgers in die Rille über dem linken LED Softbutton Kabel.
Hebe das linke LED Softbuttonkabel aus dem Plastikrahmen.

Schritt 37

Drehe den Rahmen wieder um und hebe die Tochterplatine an, um sie vom Displayrahmen zu lösen.

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen. Beim Zusammenbau des Rückglases hilft dir folgende Anleitung:

rear glas adhesive replacement guide.

Tinte & Feder

Dante Mazzanti

Mitglied seit: 14/07/15

35842 Reputation

31 Kommentare

Step 41

I could not find any led cables... after the repair the led soft keys work and vibrate but do not light up... anyway to fix this problem? Fixing g925a

Devin Gonzales - 06/07/16

It seems like you've damaged the Flex oder the Button itself. If youve allready checked the connection to Motherboard, then you need to replace the Daughterboard to solve the issue

Patrick - 11/05/17

For step 41

I could not find and led cables to remove... and after there repair the led light forsaken the soft keys do not light up but they do work and vibrate... what should I do?

Devin Gonzales - 06/07/16

I would definitely recommend heating and prying before carrying out step 17. There is a lot of glue holding the frame together and not heating and prying could easily lead to screen damage.

Marty - 06/12/16

STEP 30 - What about the glue between the plastic frame and display assembly. Is there a product to use to glue it up again?

aaron - 18/01/17

Do you know if coaxial antenna cable from s6 edge works on s6? I managed to broke it and i dont find to buy for s6.

Tracke - 24/01/17

Hello, I replaced the "daughter board" thinking it would fix my microphone issue but it did not. I tried restoring the phone and still nothing. I have no water damage. Does anyone have any suggestions? Please help.

drumerkid424 - 01/02/17

Often times you can fix mic. issues by turning off noise cancellation in the settings. Especially if you sound like you are in a tunnel or there is a lot of echo.

Reid Nuttall - 18/05/17

It could be incompatible. There are about 10 different charging ports made for this Galaxy s6 and its variations. If the wrong one from the wrong network is put in sometimes cables don't reach and additional problems due to a mismatch may occur.

The void spaces in the device's frame allow the correct board and board components to fit. Correctly matched parts allow the mother/daughter board to fit flat (as designed) and go back together once you are done replacing parts. If a mic does not match up to it's hole through the frame, you might block sound. Look at the frame to the right of the charging port while the screen is face up. If that hole is clogged it should be cleaned. If the sound quality improves, than I would probably consider opening it up to clean the inside of the frame and the mic.

One more thing. A microphone actually. With your phone's back side down, viewing from the top, there is a microphone hole just to the left of the infrared blaster. I do believe this one is attached to the motherboard.

Raymond Vassil - 08/02/17

Doing it this way is terrible, and for the most part worthless, unless the screen is already damaged.

The only safe way to replace the charging port is to desolder it and resolder a new one on. Otherwise...

kyle - 19/04/17

What? I bought a board for £6 on eBay and fitted no issue. Have you soldered a plug on? Good luck!

derek - 09/05/17

I have carried out the repair and the phone is now chargeing shown by the led's at the top of the screen however the LCD is not powering on and the phone does not vibrate when I hold down the button any help would be appreciated

jack moffett - 25/05/17

Same problem, my screen wont come on! :(

mistikempire - 29/01/19

I have a problem where when i connect the charger to my phone (Samsung galaxy s6) and it does not charge my phone, I don't think my charger or my cable have problem because I had try to connect to other gadget and its charging, my question is ,is it my phone has a problem at charging daughter board or the problem is at the other place like maybe I should change the charger or somethg.

Akmal aslan - 10/07/17

If charging port not working then you can get an induction charger and charge it wirelessly. This has worked for my son's phone with no problems.

Alex Robertson - 12/07/17

I just started having this problem as well. A newly purchased induction charger is also not charging the battery. The Qi pad seems to detect that the phone is placed on top, but the phone does not register any charge. Also, the USB charge cable sometimes is detected for a few seconds and charge is briefly indicated, then the phone no longer recognizes the cable or the charger.

Nelson Butterworth - 11/03/18

I tore the copper foil on the back of the display assembly in step 39.

What is it for? Can it be replaced?

AjL - 27/07/17

Well, when removing the display assembly, it turned out I first removed only the glass, and after attempting to remove the LCD, I broke it. Word of caution - the LCD is very fragile - it breaks even with a very light bend.

Boris Lazarov - 17/09/17

The glass back is very difficult to get off. I recommend using a heat gun or hair dryer.

Ryan Ho - 05/10/17

but what if it breaks it

Jacob Wander - 14/12/17

what if it breaks the phone?

Jacob Wander - 14/12/17

Unless your very lucky, you will break your screen if you do this that way. Do this only if you replace your screen too!

Cabrini Vincent - 15/12/17

My phone is not charging but overheating is this the problem with the daugther board??

Marko Shen - 25/01/18

CAUTION: Don’t do this repair unless you really can’t use the phone. Removing the display to replace the charger port is tantamount to madness . The display very likely to get damaged. I did this all very carefully and came out with half a dead digitizer (touch screen) . You can easily destroy the display, and the LED sensor backlights are delicate to place. You’ll need to buy a new front glue film stencil because you aren’t replacing with a new screen. I would much rather have lived with the charging problem than with a dead screen. A huge problem with the above method is guaranteeing you are separating the right layer - When I inserted the pick at the first point, it came through underneath the black insulation film stuck to the screen. https://youtu.be/Ghh_CQnh_yk tells you how to avoid this. Many other videos such as https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnQFtcTj... show you can try re-soldering the USB port without messing with the screen.

I C - 02/04/18

Also, since every s6 repair starts with “remove the back glass” it should be much more widely stated: Removing the back glass will damage it! At the very least, your entry point is likely to chip some paint off near the edge. Sliding even a thin plastic wedge will do this. The paint separates easily from the glass - either due to aging or the heat you just applied! Unless you have the right heating equipment with temp control and know exactly what you are doing - and even then I doubt it will be perfect. The videos don’t show up the small chips. You could live with the damage, if its minor, but your phone won’t be perfect . In my case the pain came off in great sheets, so I scraped it all off and had a transparent back! Just take the hit and get a new back glass and glue stencil along with your replacement parts. Same applies to the paint on the edges of the front (LCD) panel - and there the solution of getting a new one is not an option (unless its broken).

I C - 02/04/18

I carried out the repair successfully partially following this guide. I am an experienced technician and have carried out several similar repairs. I have damaged the screen only on one occasion. I usually do not remove the lcd completely but only de-glue/separate the bottom part of the screen from the frame to make enough room to remove the daughterboard flexes (soft buttons). A safer way to separate the screen is use a thin laminated playing card and insert it gently, after applying heat, in between the frame and LCD assembly from the back of the LCD instead of using a pick.

Mirco Scaramucci - 03/05/18

Does this guide also work with Galaxy s6+ edge?

Lolypopxp Warcrafter - 28/12/18

Since replacing a daughter board on a s6 I no longer pick up signal on the phone. Any ideas how I can resolve this ?

thanks

Lochlan chamberlin - 07/10/19

Blue dot of death, after following instructions. Am I screwed?

Thanks

Lowell Sonne - 25/12/19

So I followed this procedure, tore the foil on the back of the screen as I was removing it. Not sure if that’s an issue, but after reassembly, the phone will not turn on. The screen is black occasionally flickering like it’s trying to come on, and the blue LED is on constant. None of the buttons work, even to try to force it to shut down. The only way to get the LED to turn off and the screen to stop flickering is to unplug the battery. I replaced the battery and the daughterboard. Haven’t applied any new adhesive yet, so I can still easily disassemble the phone. Any advice?

Marshall Peters - 18/05/20

Samsung are evil for creating the phone like this. Having to remove the screen to replace the charging port is just a bad design choice. Luckily they sorted it out later on and now the charging port on later Samsung phones comes out on its own. The screen will almost certainly be damaged or even destroyed during this repair.

John Sinclair - 03/02/21