Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge Akku austauschen

Geschrieben von: Sam Goldheart
  • Kommentare: 122
Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge Akku austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

22

Zeitaufwand

40 Minuten - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt dir die notwendigen Schritte, um den defekten Akku deines Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge zu ersetzen.

Bevor du mit der Reparatur beginnst, musst du erst den Akku auf unter 25% entladen. Ein geladener Akku kann Feuer fangen oder explodieren, wenn er versehentlich perforiert oder beschädigt wird.

Wenn dein Akku aufgebläht ist, dann treffe entsprechende Vorsichtsmaßnahmen. Erwärme dein Smartphone in diesem Fall nicht. Du kannst eine Pipette oder eine Injektionsspritze benutzen, um Isopropylalkohol (mindestens 90%) um die Kanten der Rückabdeckung einzuträufeln und so den Kleber zu schwächen. Aufgeblähte Akkus können sehr gefährlich sein, trage also eine Schutzbrille und sei sehr vorsichtig. Gib ihn im Zweifelsfall zu einem professionellen Reparaturdienst.

Bei der Reparatur muss auch das rückseitige Glas entfernt werden. Das zerstört die Klebeverbindung, mit der es befestigt ist. Folge dieser Anleitung, um das Glas wieder festzukleben.

  1. fQOBleeuFZvTmGKe
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    • Setze eine auf gebogene Büroklammer oder ein SIM Karten-Auswurfwerkzeug in die Öffnung im SIM-Karten-Schlitz oben am Smartphone.

    • Setze das Werkzeug nicht in die Mikrofonöffnung ein, du könntest es beschädigen. Suche die Umrisse des SIM Karteneinschubs.

    • Drücke den Stift hinein bis der Einschub heraus kommt.

    • Entferne den Einschub vom Smartphone.

    First thankful sir that you have a good idea for people to creat like this.. I am very happy from your website its too good. All things i learn from your website thank you..

    Lovely Khan -

    My issue is my tray is stuck

    James middleton -

  2. PFpjwVSYrnq3JQap
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    • Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können.

    • Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.

    • Für sich drehende Mikrowellen: Stelle sicher, dass der Teller sich drehen kann. Wenn der iOpener hängenbleibt kann er überhitzen und sogar Feuer fangen.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy -

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray -

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck -

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins -

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib -

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong -

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts -

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony -

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette -

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle -

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu -

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits -

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 -

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 -

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis -

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R -

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam -

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt -

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug -

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien -

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z -

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. -

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler -

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin -

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree -

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler -

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber -

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison -

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    • Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden.

    • Im Verlauf der Reparatur kühlt sich der iOpener wieder ab. Erhitze ihn dann noch einmal für dreißig Sekunden.

    • Achte darauf, den iOpener während der Reparatur nicht zu überhitzen. Eine Überhitzung bringt den iOpener möglicherweise zum Platzen.

    • Berühre niemals den iOpener, falls er aufgeschwollen aussieht.

    • Falls der iOpener in der Mitte immer noch zu heiß ist, um ihn anzufassen, dann benutze ihn weiter, bis er ein wenig herunter gekühlt ist, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt. Ein ordnungsgemäß erhitzter iOpener sollte für bis zu 10 Minuten warm bleiben.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 -

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson -

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon -

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish -

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave -

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey -

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald -

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble -

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim -

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett -

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights -

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only -

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain -

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits -

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis -

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 -

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins -

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov -

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl -

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim -

  4. Q3OPkaQyxV6cdnx3

    • Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.

    • Der Beutel wird sehr heiß, sei vorsichtig beim Gebrauch. Lege dir am besten einen Topflappen bereit.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer -

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits -

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John -

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin -

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark -

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis -

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    • Solltest du keine Mikrowelle haben oder benutzen wollen, folge diesem Schritt, um den iOpener in kochendem Wasser zu erhitzen.

    • Fülle einen Topf oder eine tiefe Pfanne mit ausreichend Wasser, um den iOpener komplett damit bedecken zu können.

    • Erhitze das Wasser (ohne den iOpener) bis es kocht. Schalte die Wärmezufuhr (Platte) aus.

    • Lege den iOpener für etwa 2-3 Minuten in das heiße Wasser. Stelle sicher, dass der iOpener komplett mit Wasser bedeckt ist.

    • Nimm den iOpener mit einer Küchenzange aus dem Wasser heraus.

    • Trockne den iOpener gründlich mit einem Küchen- oder Handtuch ab.

    • Der iOpener speichert die Hitze, und ist daher sehr heiß. Sei vorsichtig, und halte den iOpener nur an den Endlaschen, nicht in der Mitte.

    • Der iOpener kann jetzt verwendet werden. Solltest du den iOpener erneut erwärmen müssen, erhitze das Wasser nochmal bis zum Siedepunkt, schalte die Wärmezufuhr aus, und lege den iOpener wieder für 2-3 Minuten vollständig in das Wasser.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com -

    Use a hair dryer

    Edited To the max -

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia -

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia -

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    • Wenn du das Smartphone öffnest, werden seine wasserfesten Dichtungen beschädigt. Halte Ersatzklebstoff bereit, bevor du zu repariren beginnst, oder vermeide es das Gerät beim Zusammenbau Feuchtigkeit auszusetzen, ohne den Klebstoff zu ersetzen.

    • Falls das Glas gesplittert ist, fixiere das gesamte Panel mit Paketklebeband. So wird es zusammengehalten.

    • Lege den erwärmten iOpener für etwa zwei Minuten über das ganze Panel, um den Kleber rund um den Rand des Glases zu lösen.

    • Wahrscheinlich musst du den iOpener mehrfach erwärmen und wieder auflegen, um das Smartphone heiß genug zu bekommen. Befolge die Anleitung für den iOpener, um Überhitzung zu vermeiden.

    • Verschiebe den iOpener, um den restlichen Bereich des Panels für weitere zwei Minuten zu erwärmen.

    • Du kannst auch einen Haartrockner, eine Heizplatte oder ein Heißluftgebläse benutzen. Sei aber vorsichtig und überhitze das Smartphone nicht. Das OLED Display und der Akku sind durch zu viel Wärme leicht zu beschädigen.

    the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure

    get it fixed -

    After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.

    Jae Chung -

    haha, the same happened for me after using a hair dryer. While still hot, the paint peeled of very easily. (too bad the mid-frame visually blocks most of the circuits…)

    Michael -

    I used a purpose built heating device at 100 degree celsius. Lower temperatures didn't work.

    ken -

    I used a blow dryer, attached my multimeter heat sensor to the back to monitor the temperature. At 54 degrees Celsius I could separate the back with a suction cup from my phone without damaging the paint.

    LRD -

    I gave up on the hot bag after 4 heat and apply cycles. I was only getting the back up to 60c using an infrared thermometer. I switched to a harbor freight 1500w heat gun set to Low, moving constantly around the back, until the back read 95c. The back came off easily at that point.

    Nathan Wray -

    I found another site that said temps of 203F/95C were required to soften the glues. Once I started using those temps with my heat gun, as well as a tool I made by just cutting the flat front/back panel from a package of screws (any plastic package that has a flat panel will work) , I had the back off in no time. Had I continued to use the plastic pick shown in the instructions, I really doubt I would have gotten the back off since I couldn’t get enough force on the back from my suction cup. The thin package plastic acted almost like a knife as I moved it around the outside edge. WARNING: If you have to reheat the back, REMOVE THE PACKAGE PLASTIC!! It will start to melt from the heat of a heat gun. Good Luck!!

    morttormjch -

    I had a pristine s6 edge I’m replacing the battery in. I can agree with many others about the amount of heart needed and need to where gloves. I had to heat several times using a heat gun. After several attempts phone broke free from suction cup went flying and now I have a phone with broken screen. Oh well, glad it’s not my primary phone. After getting it above 100c, the back glass finally started to separate. You need another person to be ready with a pick. Once you get one pick in, the rest is .

    Brian Gillan -

    Neither I had any success with the iopener. I ended up heating with a hair dryer. The metallic edges become quite hot.

    BTW: My phone’s “Rear Glass” is actually plastic. It didn’t seem like it would crack very easily.

    Michael -

    To get an even heat distribution at just the right temperature to easily pry the back off I used a steam iron, dry, set between wool and cotton. To hold down the phone I clamped it at the long edges with 2 strips of 1/4” furniture grade plywood cut at 7 degrees, screwed to 2’ 2x6; and then clamped the 2x6 to my work table. This made it much easier to persuade to back off without any oops!

    Michael Bielec -

    I used a hot and cold gel pad usually intended for injuries. It needed about 4 cycles of warming the phone but then worked like a charm.

    Sam Turner -

  7. Fw6nGUXcuaFIRkwC
    Fw6nGUXcuaFIRkwC
    HUeKUPTkXmfWZVj3
    nQZTQPZ2JhQWFgLJ

    • Wenn die Glasscheibe so heiß ist, dass du sie kaum anfassen kannst, kannst du einen Saugnapf nahe der Unterkante anbringen.

    • Hebe den Saugnapf hoch, um einen kleinen Spalt unter dem rückseitigen Glas zu schaffen. Setze dort ein Plektrum ein.

    • Wenn du willst, kannst du noch ein paar Tropfen Isopropylalkohol in den Spalt einfließen lassen. Das schwächt den Kleber und hilft bei den folgenden Schritten.

    If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.

    I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.

    dougpender -

    Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!

    Jessie Brooks -

    Be careful during this step- reapply heat before attempting this one (battery issues tend to melt internal “areas” ) and this area is most prone to crack during the lifting of the back plate.

    [deleted] -

    I think it is just about impossible to do this without at least removing some paint on the edges. Order a new back before you attempt this. It has the adhesive already on it and costs less than $10 on eBay.

    Thomas Hayes -

    In order to get in more easily, I normally use the iFlex (the metal one) which is thin enough to create a little space, and then i insert a thinner plastic sheet, just like the default screen protector you might find on some huawei or xiaomi phones. That plus half a drop of alcohol should do the trick. Use caution and be very patient.

    Stefano Restuccia -

    Ridiculous. I put a heat gun on mine for 30 seconds, 3 times, couldn’t get the screen to move AT ALL while pulling very hard with suction cups.

    Enough of this ‘you don’t get to mess with the battery’ nonsense. Quit screwing people over. Also, I love my ifixit kit. I had to make the post less negative.

    Adam Talbott -

    Really struggling removing the screen. It’s not budging at all.

    Paul Knight -

  8. RORfgD2GaFfcZTKD
    RORfgD2GaFfcZTKD
    Iqo6TFJnCEgjMqsP

    • Fahre mit dem Plektrum entlang der Unterkante des Smartphones um den Kleber, der das rückseitige Glas festhält, aufzutrennen.

    • Es ist dann hilfreich, wenn du danach das Plektrum an Ort und Stelle lässt und für den nächsten Schritt ein weiteres Plektrum benutzst. Wenn das Plektrum stecken bleibt verhindert es, dass sich der eben aufgetrentte Kleber wieder verbindet.

    • Erwärme das rückseitige Glas immer wieder, um zu verhindern, dass der Klebstoff wieder erkaltet und fest wird.

    Be careful that the bottom of the phone is well heated, and add a drop or so of isopropyl alcohol. When I removed the back glass of my S6, some of the black coating on the glass stayed stuck to the adhesive, so to return my phone to its original appearance, I’ll have to get a new back glass.

    Gary F -

    I needed help of a second person to insert the first pick. Apart from that, it was a one person job for me.

    Michael -

  9. YjEYrTI2RbxU6bcm
    YjEYrTI2RbxU6bcm
    RfNPocQykKZiUGZG
    AJkhALnQHiV2AumC

    • Wiederhole diese Prozedur des Erwärmens und Aufschneidens für die restlichen drei Seiten des Smartphones.

    • Lasse ein Plektrum unter jeder Kante stecken, damit sich der Kleber nicht wieder verbinden kann.

    At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel

    I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.

    Wayne Lyell -

    I used a card like the ones people use to play poker or any card game with. Only one was needed to separate the back without any damage to the paint.

    LRD -

    Be sure to apply a decent amount of heat when removing the last bit of the rear glass, cracked the rear of my screen (only a small amount mind) trying too use too much force not enough heat for the last spot.

    spank2103 -

  10. RD4BdU6nOk2uCQlK
    RD4BdU6nOk2uCQlK
    14RSbSlgRfHLLDwM

    • Schneide mit einem Plektrum durch alle noch verbliebenen Kleberreste.

    • Entferne das rückseitige Glas.

    The rear glass is very fragile. I cracked mine across the camera opening while cleaning off the old sealant. Next time ( I will have to order one and do it again…doh) I’ll place it on a flat surface while cleaning it.

    Greg Scott -

    This is also a really good time to remove the SIM tray

    John Murphy -

  11. odbBTcnmmjwTw5yB
    odbBTcnmmjwTw5yB
    dL1WRFobffomWjxT

    • So wird das neue Rückseitenglas eingebaut:

    • Ziehe alle verbliebenen Kleberreste mit einer Pinzette von der Glasscheibe und vom Rahmen des Smartphones ab.

    • Reinige die Klebeflächen mit hoch konzentriertem Isopropylalkohol (mindestens 90%) und einem fusselfreien Tuch. Wische nur in eine Richtung, nicht vor und zurück. Die Oberfläche wird so für den neuen Kleber vorbereitet.

    • Ziehe die Schutzfolie vom neuen Rückseitenglas ab und richte es sorgfältig am Rahmen des Smartphones aus. Drücke dann das Glas am Rahmen fest.

    • Wenn du dein altes Rückseitenglas wieder einbauen willst, oder dein Ersatzteil keine Klebestreifen vorinstalliert hat, dann folge dieser Anleitung.

    You should note that the adhesive strip may need to be fully removed from the frame in order to proceed with repairs. The adhesive on my phone covered all of the screws exposed in the next step.

    Sean Cruz -

    When I did my battery, the adhesive stayed almost 100% on the back glass and was still in good shape. What didn’t remain attached only lifted slightly and I was able to coax it back to its original location with tweezers. I didn’t bother to remove and replace the adhesive layer because mine was still good. I set the glass out of the way where it wouldn’t get dirt on the adhesive while I finished the battery swap. I added some additional heat (hair dryer) after reattaching the glass to make sure the adhesive made the best seal.

    Wayne Thomason -

  12. F5NoByTHU63QOCHh

    • Drehe die dreizehn 3,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben PH00 aus dem Mittelrahmen.

    Do yall sell the screws and the screw organization mat

    The lit asf Channel -

  13. PY4CcOOl6stJCHse
    PY4CcOOl6stJCHse
    waxBY1DCwXXTHZNR
    S4SqlnWSRqruZhiZ

    • Drücke den Akku nach unten und hebe gleichzeitig dem Mittelrahmen an den Seiten nach oben, um ihn vom Rest des Smartphones zu trennen.

    Difficile étape

    Easy Repair -

    this was the most difficult step for me; the given instructions make it look/sound easy, however these two parts do NOT come apart easily and I found myself forcing them apart with a knife blade, using the heat gun.

    georgew94703 -

    the photograph is misleading

    georgew94703 -

    BE Extremely careful I broke my screen, this is a point of no return! Beware!!

    James middleton -

    As everyone knows a Samsung screen replacement on old phones is pointless, for the same money you can buy a new phone

    James middleton -

  14. T6WIaTQtNLpatBYP
    T6WIaTQtNLpatBYP
    2FQayVRGswnurtaA

    • Löse das Flachbandkabel des Akkus mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers von der Hauptplatine.

    Hello ! Is there a way i can buy only this flex cord that you are showing . A GSM service broke it and wont fix my phone

    Lica Mihai-Alexandru -

  15. UpwMFWREkcTSCgl1
    UpwMFWREkcTSCgl1
    TGcibdmPMqnPyNVq

    • Löse das Flachbandkabel des Home Buttons von der Hauptplatine.

  16. dEX6ONUHNM36qBOf
    dEX6ONUHNM36qBOf
    oxO6uYkdPaFDoVDK
    iKhLNeSVxxS6Irp4

    • Löse die beiden Verbindungskabel der Antennen mit der Spudgerspitze von der Hauptplatine.

  17. DgmPqUd6VWTNVrTH
    DgmPqUd6VWTNVrTH
    VcMecfxP2QeMwNAV

    • Löse das Flachbandkabel des Displays mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers von der Hauptplatine.

  18. WPvI2cBc4sGGrAjb
    WPvI2cBc4sGGrAjb
    xqaAmrXu2C3Idhd4

    • Löse das Flachbandkabel vom Ohrhörer von der Hauptplatine.

  19. EeAVpaC6pCMXQYiE
    EeAVpaC6pCMXQYiE
    1OIwLGZwwDhp2u1f

    • Die Hauptplatine ist ESD empfindlich, also gegen statische Elektrizität, und sollte entsprechend behandelt werden. iFixit empfiehlt, ein antistatisches Armband anzulegen, wann immer du mit ESD empfindlicher Elektronik arbeitest, um Schäden zu vermeiden.

    • Greife die Hauptplatine an den beiden Kanten oben am Gerät.

    • Hebe die Hauptplatine bei diesem Schritt noch nicht ganz heraus; es muss erst ein Flachbandkabel an der Unterseite gelöst werden.

    • Hebe die Hauptplatine ein Stückchen hoch und weg vom Display, achte darauf das Kabel zur Tochterplatine nicht zu sehr zu spannen.

    Better to remove the antenna connector from daughter board and keep the connector on main board, as You will planning to remove it you will need to take from it anyway.

    Gabriel Pinho -

  20. M5PMuxRalqbSNXLW
    M5PMuxRalqbSNXLW
    uEXnPLZmkd2QhN4K

    • Löse das Flachbandkabel zur Tochterplatine auf der Unterseite der Hauptplatine.

    I had trouble removing the daughter board connector so I gently folded the main board back and was able to remove the battery.

    Eric Bornstein -

  21. JH2K2PrBv3hCpQt3
    JH2K2PrBv3hCpQt3
    v3PSxFxRaKjM2pmo
    EFIs11kMaW2jiLfT

    • Setze ein Plektrum unter den Akku und schiebe es am seitlichen Rand des Akkus entlang, um die Klebeverbindung darunter zu trennen.

    • Der zentrale Bereich unter dem Akku ist nicht durch den Rahmen verstärkt. Achte darauf, dass du nicht den offen liegenden Bildschirm beim Hebeln beschädigst.

    • Versuche dabei, den Akku so wenig wie möglich zu verbiegen. Aus Lithium-Ionen Akkus mit weicher Hülle können gefährliche Chemikalien austreten, sie können Feuer fangen oder sogar explodieren, wenn sie beschädigt werden. Wende beim Hebeln keine übermäßige Kraft an und benutze keine Metallwerkzeuge.

  22. aBP1n1LZgvtJg6MT
    aBP1n1LZgvtJg6MT
    Odhs6qNDOWswXC5U

    • Verdrehe das Plektrum, um den Akku ganz zu lösen und hebe ihn heraus.

    • Wenn du einen Akku ausgebaut hast, darfst du ihn nicht wieder benutzen, dies wäre ein Sicherheitsrisiko. Ersetze ihn durch einen neuen Akku.

    • So baust du den neuen Akku passend ein:

    • Entferne alle Klebereste vom Smartphone. Reinige die Klebeflächen mit Isopropylalkohol und einem fusselfreien Tuch.

    • Lege den neuen Akku an seinen Platz, aber klebe ihn noch nicht fest. Baue das Smartphone weiter zusammen, bis auch die Hauptplatine korrekt sitzt. (Schritt 18)

    • Bringe neue vorgestanzte Klebestreifen oder doppelseitiges Klebeband am Rahmen des Smartphones um die Umrandung des Akkufachdeckel an, spare dabei den mittleren rechteckigen Ausschnitt aus. (tatsächlich ist das die Rückseite des Displays).

    • Verbinde zeitweise den Akkuanschluss mit der Hauptplatine, um sicherzustellen, dass der Akku richtig sitzt

    • Drücke den Akku fünf bis zehn Sekunden lang fest. Trenne den Akkuanschluss wieder ab und fahre mit dem Zusammenbau fort.

    Hi Sam, in conclusion and reassembling is the heat pad (used at the appropriate step in reverse) sufficient to re-adhere the panels or should new adhesive be applied. If new adhesive is required, can you recommend a satisfactory product please.

    Cheers

    Warren

    Warren Redding -

    You should apply new adhesive when reinstalling your rear panel. You can use this 3M Double-Sided Adhesive Tape that we sell, or look around online for adhesive tape cut specifically for your phone.

    Evan Noronha -

    Achtung!

    Der Rahmen unter dem Akku ist an den verklebten Längsseiten nur ca. 5mm breit. In der Mitte befindet sich kein stabiler Schutz zwischen Akku und der Rückseite des LCD-Panels. Also besser wirklich nur die Ränder lösen und nicht mit einem Spachtel oder Ähnlichem hinter dem Akku herumhebeln, denn das könnte das LCD beschädigen.

    Oliver Edler -

    Valueable comment !! - Should be in the step20/21 !!!

    Jens H.S. Tingleff -

    I’ve updated the step to include the comments. Thanks for the suggestion!

    Arthur Shi -

    Beachten bei Akku Einbau!

    Die Position des Akkus muss in Längsrichtung unbedingt anhand des Anschlusssteckers ausgerichtet werden und nicht an dem Kunstoffrand des Bodens. Das Flachkabel ist nicht flexibel und der Anschlussstecker hat kaum Toleranz (+- 1/10 )

    Das ist etwas knifflig, denn man sieht die richtige Lage nur, wenn die Hauptplatine in Position ist.

    Am besten, man überprüft das, bevor der Kleber am Akku angebracht ist.

    Wer den Fehler gemacht hat, weiß was ich meine. :/

    Oliver Edler -

Abschluss

Folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen. Anhand dieser Anleitung kannst du die Glas-Rückabdeckung wieder verkleben.

Nach Abschluss dieser Anleitung sollte der neu eingebaute Akku kalibriert werden.

Tinte & Feder

Sam Goldheart

Mitglied seit: 19/10/12

457712 Reputation

11 Kommentare

Interesting but so difficult not worth doing! My A G S6 edge battery expanded in the night and pushed of the back. Fortunately I was awake and saw it happen.

My advice is not use Samsung phones too dangerous!

John Butler -

Any Lion bat is dangerous !! - basic elements and battery assembly are what must be of quality. Too much shi… fake “original” stuff is going around !!

Jens H.S. Tingleff -

I did it ! It wasn’t that hard. Thank you

Elie -

We can do it very easy.

arvind thakur -

Good guide, but with one minor correction - the SIM card slot is on the volume button side of the phone’s upper edge, not the power button side. An important distinction, considering the potential damage one could do if they stick the pick in the wrong hole.

apocalypticcritic -

Are these the same steps for the galaxy s6 edge plus?

Thank you

Jordan -

can we switch batteries between S6 and S6 EDGE ?

Mohamed Salah -

You cant switch between 6 and Edge since the Edge have a longer cable going from beneath the mainboard. And Yeah great guide.

Brian Baltzer -

thx 4 this! it showed me it's not rly worth buying this phone off eBay with a battery that needs replacing. while I feel pretty secure that I could replace the battery using this (extremely well explained) guide, I don't rly feel like investing this much energy into something that could potentially further damage my phone, so the search continues to replace my note 4 that had the eMMC bug :/

Heather Hodge -

Thanks for the article :)

I changed the battery and the daughterboard at the same time :)

Works like a charm.

Though i had some troubles opening the phone.

I think the picks are a bit too thick to get under, so had to use the blade of a utlity knife to get the first lift to the glass.

Especially that with one hand i am pulling and with one hand im holding the phone, so needed to be tricky to get under :)

But thanks to your guide all works now :)

Agoston Diamont -

It wasn’t that hard! The biggest Problem was remove the backcover. I needed to heat the back plate very strongly to dissolve the glue. I used a hair drier for this.

Marcel Nagel -