Einleitung
Fry your beloved Valhalla motherboard? Use this guide to replace it, and get back on Xbox Live today.
Werkzeuge
Ersatzteile
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Push the latch holding down the hard drive cover to the left.
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Pull the hard drive cover away from the console.
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Firmly grasp the fabric tab labeled "250 GB" attached to the hard drive.
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Pull the hard drive straight out of the console.
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Insert a metal spudger between the black bottom vent and the silver rim of the bottom bezel, in the rear right corner of the vent.
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Rotate the spudger away from the console, prying the vent up from the bottom bezel.
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In the same manner as described above, pry the two remaining clips on the bottom right edge.
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The clips shown in red can be detached by inserting a metal spudger underneath the bottom edge of the clip. Once underneath the bottom edge, simply prying away from the console will free the clip.
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Insert a metal spudger through the slit near the rear left corner of the bottom bezel.
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Rotate the spudger away from the device while lifting the rear bezel up with the other hand.
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Insert a metal spudger through the left middle slit of the bottom bezel, and between the bottom edge of the clip and the left case.
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Simultaneously pull the bottom bezel up and rotate the spudger away from the console to free the clip.
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In a similar fashion, free the clip at the front of the bottom bezel's left edge.
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Insert the spudger into the rear-most slit on the right edge of the bottom bezel, and wedge it behind the clip by pushing the spudger down while pushing the tip of the spudger against the right case.
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Simultaneously release the clip and pull the bottom bezel up.
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Insert a spudger between the silver rim and bottom bezel directly above the clip shown.
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Release the clip while pulling up on the bottom bezel.
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Lift the left edge of the bottom bezel up enough to gain clearance.
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Insert a metal spudger behind the left edge of the last clip, and push the clip away from the right case.
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In the following steps, you will remove the top vent, secured to the top panel by the thirteen clips shown.
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Orient the console so that the words "XBOX 360" on the sides are right-side up, and the faceplate is facing to the left.
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Insert a metal spudger between the top vent and the top bezel near the rear of the Xbox.
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Rotate the spudger away from the console, prying the edge of the fan vent up until the two plastic clips come free.
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Insert a metal spudger between the fan vent and top bezel along the left side of the console.
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In the same manner described above, begin prying the left side of the top vent away from the top bezel.
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Continue prying along the left side of the device, freeing all the clips on that side.
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Lift the fan vent up from the freed left side to disengage the clips along the right side.
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Remove the entire fan vent.
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Insert a metal spudger through the front-most slit on the left edge of the top bezel and between the bottom edge of the clip and the left case, as described above.
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Simultaneously rotate the spudger away from the console and pull up on the top bezel to free the clip.
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Using the same method described above, free the two remaining clips along the left edge of the top bezel.
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Grab the entire top panel with your hands, lift up the entire left edge high enough to rest the separated clips on top of the left case.
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Rotate the console so that the rear of the Xbox 360 S is facing to the right, and the right case is facing you.
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Insert a metal spudger through the rear-most slit on the right edge of the top bezel and between the bottom edge of the clip and the right case.
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While lifting up on the top bezel with your fingers, rotate the spudger away from the console to free the clip.
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In the same manner as described in the previous steps, release the middle and front clips along the right edge of the top panel.
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Locate the two clips connecting the right and left case along the top edge of the console, behind the Wi-Fi card.
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While pushing the left and right case away from each other with one hand, pry the clips away from the case with a metal spudger.
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Insert a spudger between the right and left cases to hold them separate while you work elsewhere.
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While pushing the left and right cases apart with one hand, free one clip located beside the hard drive slot.
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Insert the flat edge of a metal spudger between the left and right cases where the warranty sticker used to be.
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Pry the left case upwards to form a gap between the two cases, and slide the spudger in toward the left case.
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Rotate the spudger upward to release the last clip.
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Release one clip in the front left corner of the top edge securing the left case to the faceplate.
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Flip the console over so the bottom is facing upward.
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Release one clip in the front left corner of the bottom edge securing the left case to the faceplate.
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Rotate the left case away from the device to release the last two inner clips.
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Remove the left case.
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Release the clip near the front right corner of the top edge securing the right case to the faceplate.
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Release the clip in the bottom right corner of the top edge securing the right case to the front case.
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Lift the left edge of the faceplate upward to release the last two clips securing the faceplate to the right case.
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Detach the faceplate from the rest of the device.
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Using a spudger or fingernail, lift the clear blue tab away from the connector.
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Slide the locking tab on the power switch board cable connector toward the top of the console.
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Pull the power switch cable straight out of the connector.
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The faceplate is now free of the rest of the console.
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Remove the single T10 Torx screw holding in the wireless card.
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Pull the Wi-Fi Board out of the console.
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Disconnect the optical drive data cable from the back of the optical drive.
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Disconnect the power cable from the back of the optical drive.
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Remove the single 9.2 mm T10 Torx screw securing the hard drive cable connector to the plastic bracket.
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Lift the hard drive cable connector off the hard drive bracket.
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Remove the 11.3 mm T10 Torx screw holding the hard drive bracket to the metal frame, near the DC-In port.
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Unscrew the two 11.7 mm Phillips screws securing the fan to the heat sink in the bottom right and top left corners of the fan.
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Remove the fan from the logic board assembly.
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There are a total of 10 screws holding the logic board assembly to the metal case:
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Five 11.3 mm silver T10 Torx screws, in the holes marked "M", "N", "P", "R", and "T".
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Four 5.6 mm black T9 Torx screws in the holes marked "D", "E", "J", and "K".
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A single 11.3 mm gold T10 Torx screw in the hole marked "A".
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Grab the heat sink with one hand, and hold the metal frame with the other.
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Lift the logic board assembly out of the metal frame.
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Starting at the front left corner of the x-clamp, insert a 1.5 mm flathead screwdriver between the heat sink's peg and the x-clamp's hook.
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Gently rotate the screwdriver counterclockwise, releasing the x-clamp's hook from the peg.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
9 Kommentare
This guide wouldn't even work. DVD drives are linked to the motherboard. If someone were to follow this the end result would be an Xbox console that could only play DVDS games would show up as DVDs because of key mismatch.
Adam -
What you mean “could only play DVDS games would show up as DVDs because of key mismatch “?
Whats the difference you mean about DVDS and DVDs?
Yes, but this is a good guide for those that are installing new thermal paste on their boards and/or wanna gut their system for a thorough cleaning.
just wanted to say thank you although i only needed up to step 43 as i'm have issues with the dvd drive it seems it only wants to read if the drive case is open my my thought is the slider servo is about done for. the dvd was a bit of a bear to figure out for a few minutes but remove the foam then use a p42 driver on the screws underside then the top slides off the back and honestly i left the bottom on.i found step 29 to be a bit of a pain and almost decided to break that bugger of a clip off for future work but didn't, and to me it seemed that removing the screws in step 40 made steps 32 through 34 easier, i don't know take it for what it's worth also i found i could also skip step 35 and leave the front plate and the rf module connected which made working the unit while open/disassembled easier if you need to remove the rf module then you can move the front plate off to the side enough and remove the screws holding it, and beside i hate working with ribbon cable. all in all nice guide though THUMBS UP!
jinarion -
Thanks mate, got me to where I needed to get to… that other tosser can !#^& off tho, id like to see him take the time and effort to produce a detailed instructional like this.