Xbox One Wireless Controller Vibrationsmotoren Austausch

Geschrieben von: Tommy

Kommentare: 40

Xbox One Wireless Controller Vibrationsmotoren Austausch

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Schwierig

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

15 - 20 Minuten

Einleitung

Hier wird gezeigt, wie du die Vibrationsmotoren in den Drückern austauschen kannst. Du musst dazu die Drücker völlig zerlegen.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Trigger Rumble Motor(s)

Schritt 2

Im Foto ist ein Metallspudger zu sehen. Wir empfehlen einen Spudger aus Plastik.
Nimm den Controller fest in die Hand um die Seitenteile abzunehmen. Heble mit einem Spudger in die Naht zwischen Front- und Seitenteil.
Ziehe das Seitenteil ab indem du den Spudger vor und zurück bewegst. Das musst du entlang der ganzen Naht durchführen.

Start prying the side plate off underneath the trigger, this makes it easier to disconnect the other clips connecting the side plate to the backplate.

Brandon - 07/04/18

One you take it off, is it possible to click it back in?

Aiden Bear - 08/04/18

As long as you don’t exceed the couple tons you need to take it off you should be able to put it back.

Brandon - 09/04/18

I don’t have a squdger

TimidFerret4982 Gaming - 27/11/19

getting those handles back on seems impossible, they just dont fit as well, a gap remains even after snapping into place.

Dont think ill be doing this in the future

Spoutin Wyze - 17/03/21

edit: wiggled the bo9ttom middlewith the handles off and somethign finally “clicked” into place for that extra 1/4 mm for the down arrow on my D-Pad to click back up into place!.

Spoutin Wyze - 17/03/21

Schritt 3

Hinter einem Aufkleber in der Mitte des Controllers ist eine Schraube verborgen.
Mit einem Schraubendreher kannst du ein Loch direkt in die Mitte des Aufklebers stoßen.
Wenn du den Aufkleber nicht verletzen willst kannst du ihn auch vorsichtig anheben.
Entferne die fünf 10 mm Schrauben auf der Rückseite mit einem T8 Schrauber.

i damaged my screws. how do i get the screws out?

tenzin - 12/11/16

wait. i just watched a video guide on ifixit's youtube channel about damaged screws. i'll try those methods.

tenzin - 12/11/16

It's a t8 or t9 security bit btw, I got the top two out with a regular T8, but the bottom two and middle needed a T9 Security bit.

David Loper - 23/11/16

All five faceplate/backplate screws in the controller I disassembled were T8 security fasteners.

John Dziedzic - 07/12/16

Am I doing something wrong because I got the tool it said I needed and got the middle screw out but the others have a bump or something in the center of the screw and it won't fit.

kolton77 - 03/01/17

The T8 is only good for the middle screw on my One S controller. The others require something bigger

Matej Skelo - 29/01/17

These requires SECURITY Torx bits (they have a cannulated hole in the driver). I don't believe the iFixIt branded driver is cannulated but you can buy a set of bits from DeWalt DWAX200 which is overkill but has what you need.

jhighsmith - 15/04/17

The driver that iFixIt sells is cannulated.

jhighsmith - 15/04/17

where do you get this dumb ass screw driver

Jake Zweier - 19/08/17

iFixit Store #IF145-027-3

VauWeh - 19/08/17

You can bypass it with a 1.5mm flathead.

Marianne Sandling - 23/09/17

thank you for this. worked for me

Mr Anderson (Evolluisionist) - 11/11/18

These screws required a T10, not T8.

Armand - 24/01/19

TR9. A $10 kit from Walmart has the bit/driver in it and extra goodies to make life simple.

Matt Martin - 11/12/19

As weird as it sounds, the top 2 came out for me with a flathead- but the bottom two and the middle one wont

macybrooksevans - 17/01/20

If you damage the middle part of the screws you can still take it out with the same screwdriver.

Kev God - 09/03/20

Thank-You :)

Isaiah - 25/04/21

needed a T8H, not easy to see.

on a grey green xbox one controller

Michael -

You need a T8 and the kit is not $10 it’s $13.88 Hyper Tough Electronic Kit. In the hardware section at WalMart it a T8 because I tried everything and only a T8 fit it like a magnet. And the dumbass that wrote the article there is only 1 freaking screw.

Bear Darazs -

Schritt 4

Nimm die Rückseite ab.

Schritt 5

Entferne die Frontplatte.

Schritt 6

Du kannst die Vibrationsmotoren frei aus ihren Sockeln hängen lassen.
Entlöte die Lötstellen, während du die roten und schwarzen Drähte auf der oberen Hauptplatine hälst.
Entlöte die schwarzen und grauen Kabel, die am oberen Motherboard befestigt sind.
Entferne die Vibrationsmotoren und lege sie beiseite.
Sei bei der Verwendung des Lötkolbens vorsichtig, damit du andere Komponenten nicht zu beschädigst oder dich selbst verletzt.
Informationen zum Löten findest du hier.

Steps 6-8 aren't completely necessary, and are very risky if you aren't good at soldering. It would seem the only reason to remove the motherboard and mess with all this soldering is just so you can reach both screws on the trigger in step 10. However, you can reach them already with a small-bodied screwdriver. Although you might have to rest the screwdriver on the black square processor to reach the bottom screw, it shouldn't damage the processor or motherboard to jimmy that screw out.

Robert Rapier - 04/01/17

like mentioned by ‘Robert Rapier’ you can skip the de-soldering in most cases,

for example cleaning or changing the buttons is doable, but the grey and black wires are pretty short

and wired through the inner case so it can get a bit fiddly and you have to be careful not to damage them in the process.

If you have a soldering station around i would still recommend using it.

yKekS Yzz - 10/01/18

Schritt 7

Löse die beiden 7mm T6-Schrauben in der Nähe der Vibrationsmotoranschlüsse.

Are these just T6 screws or Torx security T6 that is cannulated?

Kenan Vickstrom - 08/06/18

The outer screws are security screws. The ones on the system boards are Torx.

Rongwey - 12/08/20

Schritt 8

Fasse die Seiten des Motherboards fest in der Mitte.
Hebe das Motherboard nach oben, während du es leicht vorwärts und rückwärts wackelst.
Das Anheben des Motherboards erfordert etwas Kraft.

Schritt 9

Entferne das gelbe Klebeband welches die Kabel vorne im Kontroller festhält.

Schritt 10

Auf der Unterseite der Drücker sind zwei 7mm T6 Torx Schrauben. Drehe sie heraus.

Schritt 11

Entferne die Abdeckungen der Drücker.

Schritt 12

Löte die Drähte von der Platine ab.
Entferne die Vibrationsmotoren samt Kabeln aus ihren Befestigungen.

Perso après le remontage ça n'a jamais refonctionné ma manette détecte plus du tout les gachettes et jai changé les joysticks en même temps et eux non plus ne detecte plus….

Tuto Free - 05/12/20

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammen zu setzen folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Tommy

Mitglied seit: 22/01/15

1867 Reputation

10 Kommentare

After a drop onto tile flooring, the side clip of the outer handle snapped and got lodged into the trigger, causing it to only pull to 80% and go no further. Thanks for this breakdown.

solofrom303 - 13/04/16

My right trigger won't work on gta 5 and on other games it works

Devean Velasquez - 09/08/16

Very strange, Devean. That sounds more like a software problem than a hardware problem, if I had to guess. If you haven't already, maybe check to make sure that your control setup is correct.

Alternatively, see if you can find any other games that your RT doesn't work for, and see what they have in common with GTA - it might be that the trigger isn't registering as fully depressed, or only ever registering when fully depressed.

Liam Gow - 10/08/16

Trying to replace bumpers assembly and green sync button fell out can not figure how to put it back in.

Anthony Bembenek - 25/10/16