Xbox One Wireless Controller untere Platine Austausch

getting those handles back on seems impossible, they just dont fit as well, a gap remains even after snapping into place.

Dont think ill be doing this in the future

edit: wiggled the bo9ttom middlewith the handles off and somethign finally “clicked” into place for that extra 1/4 mm for the down arrow on my D-Pad to click back up into place!.

All five faceplate/backplate screws in the controller I disassembled were T8 security fasteners.

Am I doing something wrong because I got the tool it said I needed and got the middle screw out but the others have a bump or something in the center of the screw and it won't fit.

The T8 is only good for the middle screw on my One S controller. The others require something bigger

where do you get this dumb ass screw driver

iFixit Store #IF145-027-3

These screws required a T10, not T8.

TR9. A $10 kit from Walmart has the bit/driver in it and extra goodies to make life simple.

As weird as it sounds, the top 2 came out for me with a flathead- but the bottom two and the middle one wont

If you damage the middle part of the screws you can still take it out with the same screwdriver.

Thank-You :)

needed a T8H, not easy to see.

on a grey green xbox one controller

You need a T8 and the kit is not $10 it’s $13.88 Hyper Tough Electronic Kit. In the hardware section at WalMart it a T8 because I tried everything and only a T8 fit it like a magnet. And the dumbass that wrote the article there is only 1 freaking screw.

Hey @jasonasnes good catch! It looks like maybe they forgot to add the trigger/trigger rumble motor prerequisite, so I went ahead and added that in there. That guide makes no mention of how the rumble motors are attached, but I think they’re soldered to the motherboard, so I added a note to desolder those wires prior to removal. I think you could probably also just desolder those wires and leave the triggers in place when removing the motherboard, but I’m not certain! Hope that helps!

@sam I was able to complete this with the missing information but thank you for updating it for those to come in the future. Minus these couple of discrepancies and it’s a great guide. Yes, all 4 of the rumble motors are soldered onto the upper motherboard. Step 6 actually highlights this with the exception of mentioning the 2 small rumble motors in the triggers. You bring up a good point, it might be possible to leave the triggers in place during this process. I used this guide as a teardown instead of as a replacement so I could refurbish the plastic shell and clean the interior of my day one controller so I completely stripped mine. However, I believe that the triggers could remain in place if your goal is to get to the lower motherboard.

You can lift off the top motherboard without desoldering the black/red wires to the large rumble motors, just be careful because the wires are delicate enough that you can break them off at the solder joint. It’s not a huge deal if you do, because they’re long enough that you can strip the ends and have plenty of room to resolder.

You can even very carefully remove the lower motherboard without desoldering the black/gray wires, and without removing the trigger assemblies, but there’s almost no room to work in there if you choose to go this route, because the wires will leave you only at most an inch of space to get in there under the lower motherboard. Also, leaving the trigger assemblies in place makes it very difficult to get the lower motherboard back into place without pinching or moving the conductive rubber button pad.