iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD tauschen

Schritt 1

Reparaturen sind relativ schwierig, wenn der iMac aufrecht steht und man keine iMac Reparaturhilfe verwendet. Man kann den iMac zwar auch für Reparaturen hinlegen, jedoch ist es einfacher und schneller den iMac in aufgerichtetem Zustand zu reparieren.
Wenn du die Reparaturhilfe aus Karton von iFixit hast, dann baue sie erst mit Hilfe dieser Anleitung zusammen.

What’s the point of this? You run the wheel around the outside, and then you lay it down anyway to pull the glass and do the rest. The wedge is not needed.

ebay - 29/01/21

I have a story to tell about this teardown. It all went wonderfully well until after I completed the process and attempted to format my new SSD drive only to discovery that the capacity of the drive was 256GB… not the 2TB I was sure I had ordered. iFixit was very supportive and helpful in sending me a new set of sticky tape strips and and RMA to return the SSD and some of the other parts.

I finally had received my new set of strips and the 2TB SSD…. I figured, piece of cake… I already know how to do this… but I watched the video again and started following the teardown…

…apparently the new sticky tape strips was way more powerful that the original tape and while using the pizza cutter tool and not advancing much, I proceeded to use one of the iFixit credit card style wedges…. I now have 2 pretty severe cracks on the glass of my display, which as clearly explained by @mayer can only be replaced by an entire display… which runs at about $500. Cosmetically it looks horrible, but it works… for now.

Erich Hentschel - 01/03/21

Schritt 2

Beginne an der linken Seite des Bildschirms, auf der Seite der Ein-/Aus-Taste, und schiebe das iMac Opening Tool zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.
Die Achse am iMac Opening Tool verhindert, dass es zu tief in das Gerät gesteckt wird. Solltest du jedoch ein anderes Werkzeug benutzen, stelle sicher, dass du es nicht weiter als 9,5 mm in den iMac steckst. Es besteht sonst die Gefahr, Antennenkabel oder andere Komponenten zu beschädigen.

Should you run a hair dryer along the edges first?

Al Val -

Schritt 3

Benutze das Werkzeug wie einen Pizzaschneider - rolle es entlang der Fuge zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und es wird den Schaumstoffkleberstreifen durchschneiden.
Achte darauf, dass du den Griff immer hinter dem Rad hinterher schiebst. Ansonsten könnte das Rad aus dem Griff herausrutschen.
Fahre mit dem Werkzeug entlang der linken Displayseite.

Schritt 4

Fahre mit dem Werkzeug um die obere linke Ecke.

Schritt 5

Schneide den Kleber entlang der oberen linken Gehäuseseite durch.

Schritt 6

Mache an der Oberkante des Displays weiter.
Du solltest mit dem Werkzeug immer etwas durch den Teil vor- und zurückrollen, den du bereits durchgeschnitten hast, um so viel wie möglich von dem Kleber zu durchtrennen.

Schritt 7

Fahre nun mit dem Werkzeug um die obere rechte Ecke des Displays.

Schritt 8

Fahre mit dem Werkzeug entlang der rechten Gehäuseseite abwärts.

Schritt 9

Schneide den Rest des Klebers an der rechten Seite des Gehäuses bis ganz nach unten durch.
Jetzt solltest du das Werkzeug noch einmal zurück um das Gerät schieben, um so viel wie möglich von dem Kleber durchzuschneiden.

Schritt 10

Das Opening Tool hat schon den größten Teil der Arbeit erledigt, jedoch klebt der Bildschirm immer noch etwas am Gehäuse. Eine Plastikkarte ist nötig, um noch den letzten Rest an Kleber zu lösen.
Lege den iMac mit der Oberseite nach oben auf einen Tisch.
Beginne an der oberen rechten Ecke des iMacs und schiebe eine Plastikkarte zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.
Sei vorsichtig und stelle sicher, dass du die Karten nicht weiter als 9,5 mm in den iMac steckst. Es besteht sonst die Gefahr, Antennenkabel oder andere Komponenten zu beschädigen.

Schritt 11

Verdrehe die Plastikkarte leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse zu vergrößern. Trenne allen Kleber in der Nähe der Ecke auf.
Zu viel Kraft kann das Display zerbrechen. Arbeite vorsichtig. Versuche nicht, den Spalt mehr als 6 mm breit zu machen.

Schritt 12

Höre vor der iSight Kamera auf, den Kleber durchzutrennen. Ansonsten besteht die Gefahr, sie zu beschädigen.
Schiebe die Karte in Richtung der Bildschirmmitte, um den Rest des Klebers durchzutrennen.

Schritt 13

Schiebe die Karte zurück in die Ecke des Bildschirms und lasse sie dort stecken, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber wieder anhaftet.

Schritt 14

Schiebe eine zweite Karte in den Spalt zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse in der oberen linken Ecke.

Schritt 15

Drehe die Karte leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse zu vergrößern.
Genau wie an der anderen Seite, bewege die Karte nur langsam, damit der Kleber genügend Zeit hat, um sich zu lösen, und das Glas nicht überbeansprucht wird.

Schritt 16

Schiebe die Plastikkarte in Richtung Mitte und höre wieder vor der Mitte auf, um die iSight Kamera nicht zu beschädigen.

Schritt 17

Schiebe die Karte wieder an die obere, linke Ecke und lasse sie dort stecken.

Schritt 18

Setze die Karten, wie im Bild gezeigt, nahe an den Ecken ein und drehe die Karten leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Gehäuse und Bildschirm zu vergrößern.
Wenn Teile des Bildschirms sich nicht zu lösen scheinen, dann nimm eine weitere Karte, um in diesen Bereichen den Kleber ein weiteres Mal durchzutrennen.
Beginne, die obere Seite des Bildschirms vom Gehäuse abzuheben.
Hebe den Bildschirm nur einige Zentimeter an. Er ist immer noch durch Daten- und Versorgungskabel mit dem iMac verbunden.

Schritt 19

Während du den Bildschirm mit einer Hand nach oben hältst, trenne mit der anderen Hand das Versorgungskabel ab, welches zum Bildschirm führt.
Hebe den Bildschirm so weit an, dass du genug Platz hast, um an den Anschluss zu kommen, jedoch nicht so weit, dass du das Kabel dehnst und den Anschluss beanspruchst (~20cm).

Der Stecker muss seitlich wie die meisten anderen Stecker in diesem Modell komprimiert werden, um ihn aus der Buchse auf dem Logicboard zu ziehen. Die Zugrichtung ist parallel zum Logicboard in Richtung Oberkante des iMac. Ziehen ohne seitliches Zusammendrücken der Backen am Stecker könnte den Stecker oder die Buchse beschädigen.

Ernest Bumblebee - 17/11/20

These instructions are unclear. They imply the cable can just be pulled out but this step had me stuck for a bit. Searching the webs, I discovered that there are little tabs on either side of the connector. I used my prod tool and poked one side and the connector came out a little. I poked the other side the connector came out without a fight.

Peter Akey -

The instruction for this step state this but I was still not expecting two cables. Finally figured out there is a Display Power and a separate Display Data cable.

wsrb -

Schritt 20

Klappe die Metalllasche am Anschluss des Bildschirm-Datenkabels um.
Trenne das Displaydatenkabel ab.
Dies ist ein empfindlicher Anschluss, der relativ leicht beschädigt werden kann. Ziehe das Kabel gerade zur oberen Kante des iMacs aus dem Anschluss heraus.

Schritt 21

Hebe den Bildschirm soweit an, dass er fast senkrechte ist.
Es gibt immer noch einen Klebestreifen an der unteren Kante des Bildschirms, der den Bildschirm wie eine Art Scharnier mit dem Gehäuse verbindet. Klappe den Bildschirm einige Male auf und zu, um den Kleber zu lösen.

After rocking the display back and forth a bit, I found it helpful to use my iMac opening tool to gently slide ever so slightly underneath the bottom of the glass to cut the adhesive. This was with the display lowered back into it its normal position. I just worked about 1 millimetre deep at a time and eventually cut through the ~8” adhesive strip at the bottom centre.

Henry Rose - 21/07/21

Schritt 22

Berühre auf keinen Fall die Lötpunkte auf der Rückseite des Netzteils und die Zuleitungen der Kondensatoren. (Rote Markierung)
Fasse die kleine Lasche am Ende eines der Klebestreifen am unteren Displayrand an und ziehe sie zur Oberkante des Displays hin, so dass er sich ablösen.
Wiederhole diesen Schritt für den anderen Klebestreifen und entferne ihn.
Wenn einer der Klebestreifen reißt, bevor du ihn ganz ablösen kannst, dann musst du den restlichen Streifen mit einer Plastikkarte durchtrennen.

Schritt 23

Sei vorsichtig bei der Handhabung des Bildschirms. Er ist groß, schwer und aus Glas. Die Kanten des Displays sind zerbrechlich. Vermeide es, ihn an den Ecken hochzuheben.
Hebe den Bildschirm aus dem Rahmen nach oben und entferne ihn anschließend aus dem iMac. Lege das Display auf eine flache und weiche Oberfläche mit dem Bildschirm nach unten.
Möglicherweise musst du an einer Seite anfangen, den Bildschirm langsam anzuheben, um den Rest des Klebebandes zu lösen.
Nachdem der Kleber durchschnitten worden ist, kann er nicht mehr zu Verkleben des Displays verwendet werden. Folge dieser Anleitung, um nach der Reparatur die Klebestreifen zu ersetzen, welche das Display am rückseitigen Gehäuse befestigen.

Schritt 24

Entferne die neun 3,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die untere Halterung befestigt ist.
Möglicherweise musst du die Display-Schutzfolie an der Unterkante des Gehäuses abziehen, um an die Schrauben heranzukommen.

These are new steps from when I did this on my late 2015 retina iMac so I believe step 25 and 26 are optional (you can cope without doing it).

Amuseme -

I did not find it necessary to remove these screws and this bar

James Orwin -

I lost these 8 during the reassemble. The manual tells I need eight 3.2mm screws.

Can anyone help to clarify what screws I need. I don't really understand this size. Is this M2x3mm?

Daniel - 02/09/22

Schritt 25

Entferne die untere Halterung (auch "Kinnriemen" genannt) aus dem iMac-Gehäuse.

No comments on this ?

It's quite possibly the most difficult part to put back in the entire process

The screws are tiny and the there is no easy way to line up the holes on the bracket with the screws

Having got this far - it wasn't even all that necessary to remove this part in the first place

Severe pain in the neck

Eoin -

After an hour of painstaking mess - I managed to get 7 out of the 9 back in

By that time I could care less about the remaining 2

Eoin - 21/04/22

With the right tools and technique, the bracket can easily be replaced in under a couple of minutes.

Use a screwdriver with a magnetized tip which frees up one hand and place a screw on the tip first.

Then line up the screw hole on just one end of the bracket and using a pair of tweezers from the side, hold the bracket in place while you put in the screw.

Next, do the same on the other end of the bracket. After that, all of the screws in the middle are quick to replace. I didn't really have to touch the bracket again after the end screws were in place.

Hope that helps someone else since removing this bracket does make later steps a bit easier.

Max Z - 08/06/22

Schritt 26

Entferne die beiden 10 mm Torx T10 Schrauben.

I found i didn’t need to remove the speaker nor the hard drive. In fact I managed to remove the old PSU without even removing the chin strap. However, to install the replacement PSU, I had to remove the chin strap. So I would say, remove the chin strap, but you can optionally leave the speaker and hard drive in.

Cool_Breeze -

While you do not need to fully remove the screws as once you loosen them a few turns the speaker becomes free. I found that after the removal of the speaker, I turned it over and popped the screws out as this made it easier to replace it later as I could see the alignment before putting the screws back in. If not you may be off a little and you do not want to force the screw back in.

James Orwin -

I used a pill container that I got from Walgreens to hold all of the fasteners I removed during the disassembly process. The container has 14 compartments (individual compartments for each morning and evening of the week). I put a small piece of paper in the compartment with the fasteners to note the name and step of the procedure and the size of the tool I used. Hopefully this will be useful when I go to put it back together again.

Dan Smith -

Schritt 27

Ziehe das linke Lautsprecherkabel aus dem Anschluss heraus. Achte darauf, den Stecker gerade aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu ziehen.
Entferne das Kabel aus der Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board.
Wenn die Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board für das Lautsprecherkabel zu schmal ist, trenne es und lasse das Kabel an Ort und Stelle.

I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

Anthony Zimmerman - 10/04/18

on the 2019 iMac, it is horizontal not vertical so pull it horizontally out.

tarex7 -

Schritt 28

Achte darauf, keine Lötverbindungen auf der Rückseite der Stromversorgung zu berühren. Kondensatoren können genug aufgeladen sein, um dir einen gefährlichen Schock zu verpassen.
Verwende einen Spudger, um den Netzstecker aus der Buchse auf dem Logic Board zu trennen.

Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

brianyu - 04/10/15

The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

Robert - 17/12/15

there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

Thomas Webb - 02/09/17

Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

Joseph Ashe - 11/09/17

The connector has a plain black side and the other side you can see the 2 silver connectors.. the side you can see the 2 silver connectors faces the front.. the plain side is to the back/against the logic board.

paul.lynch1 - 20/03/21

If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge?

Dominic Pettifer - 12/05/19

you can do this method, or just wear latex gloves.

Philip Sedlmair -

make sure you’ve actually unplugged the mac when running this cable, and not had it plugged in to test the diagnostic LEDs, because one of those wee silver spots is carrying 230v, and its 6mm away from the place the cable runs, So if you have fat fingers like mine, that’s a free wake up zap

flow in - 25/05/20

Schritt 29

Hebe den linken Lautsprecher gerade nach oben hoch, bis das Kabel zur Einschalttaste frei liegt (ca. 13 mm).

This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board austauschen step 25.

Use a P00.

To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

Schritt 30

Schiebe das Netzkabelkabel vorsichtig aus der Nut des linken Lautsprechers.

Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing!

Fabio Braga - 26/07/19

This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board austauschen step 25.

Use a P00.

To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

Schritt 31

Hebe den linken Lautsprecher gerade nach oben und entferne ihn vom iMac.
Wenn die Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board zu schmal war, um das Lautsprecherkabel vorhin freizulegen, ziehe es vorsichtig frei, während du den Lautsprecher entfernst.
Ziehe an das Ende vom Konnektor während du den Lautsprecher entfernst, um den Kabel unter der rechten Abdeckung der Festplatte zu ziehen.

I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

Robert - 17/12/15

me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

Alber Einsten - 10/03/16

Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

Matthew Gonzalez - 09/11/17

It is difficult to remove the bottom of the speaker because it bends into the frame. Be careful to remove the power button cable, which also routes in a channel in the bottom of the speaker.

Eric - 11/01/20

easier to remove the speakers if you unscrew the front ‘chin strap’ - 6/9 phillips screws that you can see in the picture hold that aluminum piece in place

flow in - 25/05/20

Agree. This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board austauschen step 25.

Use a P00.

To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

The trick with removing the left speaker is that you have to slide it up toward the top of the iMac (continuing to de-route the power button cable carefully as you go) to get it out from under the chin before you lift it up to remove it.

ace - 06/03/21

Schritt 32

Ziehe das SATA-Daten-/Versorgungskabel gerade nach oben und löse es von der Festplatte ab.

Schritt 33

Entferne die beiden 7,3 mm Torx T8 Schrauben, mit denen die linke Festplattenhalterung am Rückgehäuse befestigt ist.

Schritt 34

Fasse die Festplatte und linke Festplattenhalterung zusammen an.
Kippe die linke Seite nach oben und weg vom Gehäuse und schiebe die ganze Einheit nach links.
Entferne die Festplatte und die linke Festplattenhalterung vom iMac.

Schritt 35

Entferne die linke Festplattenhalterung.

Schritt 36

Wenn du am Netzteil arbeitest, musst du sehr vorsichtig sein: berühre keine Kondensatoranschlüsse oder auch Lötstellen auf der Rückseite. Fasse die Platine nur an den Kanten an.
Trenne das Stromversorgungskabel von der Stromversorgung.

I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

MrSchaeffer - 18/06/15

I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

jimboom006 - 14/06/17

I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

Joseph Ashe - 11/09/17

I simultaneously used the fingernails on my 2 index fingers to dislodge the tabs and continue to pull the cable out. It took a couple seconds.

Eric - 11/01/20

ultimately the trick for me was to just pull hard enough, but that part is the scariest part. any tips welcome

Boris - 16/05/20

These connectors seem pretty tough to remove until one understands the latch. Each side of the plug are two little sprung tabs (the tab is part of the spring clip which runs down the side of the plug on each side - makes sense once you see the removed plug!). Squeeze them in towards each other and then gently pull the plug from the socket. No great force, or even the spudger, needed once that is done.

Pete Mackenzie - 18/05/20

One more tip, has worked on other cables for me. Fish the skinniest spudger tip you have under the cable, and with a finger of your other hand put opposite pressure on the cable against the spudger and gently work it out

Mike Fleming - 30/08/20

If u are right handed, i can recomend to use your index left nail to press de bottom sprung, and a flat spudger on the right hand, came off so easy

Davo Montiel -

Davo Montiel's tip worked for me. Use the fingernail on your left index finger to press in the tab on the bottom side of the connector and with the right hand use a flat spudger to press in the tab on the top side of the connector.

Dan Smith -

Schritt 37

Entferne die folgenden vier Schrauben, die das Netzteil am Rückgehäuse befestigen (Entweder T8 oder T10- Schrauben, je nach Modell):
Zwei 23,7 mm Torx Schrauben.
Zwei 7,3 mm Torx Schrauben.

Schritt 38

Versuche nicht, das Netzteil vom Gehäuse zu lösen, es ist immer noch durch zwei Kabel mit dem Logic Board verbunden.
Bewege die Netzteilplatine in Richtung des linken Gehäuserandes nach oben, um sie aus der Raste am Logic Board zu lösen.

This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board austauschen step 25.

Use a P00.

To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

The top right screw on the power supply actually screws into a stand-off screw connected to the back of the iMac case. Once you have removed the 4 x Torx 8 or 10 screws you can move the power supply enough to see the upper face of it.

It has a Torx 25 slot in it and comes out easily. This will give you a lot more room for your fingers in Step 40, depressing the tab on the DC power cable connector to pull it out, and when replacing it on reassembly. You may find it won’t require you removing the support bracket as in the suggestion above.

John Blagden - 23/10/21

Schritt 39

Drücke die Lasche am Stecker des Gleichstromkabels herunter, ziehe es dann senkrecht aus seinem Anschluss auf der Rückseite des Logic Boards.

Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

Manuel Collazo - 24/07/16

Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

David Zemsky - 23/06/17

Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

P. Hisada - 21/03/18

This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

Anthony Zimmerman - 10/04/18

I'm struggling with this step. I presume that the tab to which you are referring is behind the connector. I can see a plastic protrusion there but it does not move when I push it. Just to get my finger behind it requires the power board to be moved quite a bit btw.

Dave Sands - 30/12/19

Pressing on the release on the back with my finger and at the same time using a needle nose pliers to wiggle the connector with my other hand worked for me.

Kimbo M - 12/04/20

i could not get it out by the force of my fingers, so what i did was slightly turn the imac 90 degrees so i could reach the area better, push up (so, vertically) the power control board, push in the tab on the bottom of the connector with my right hand, and slightly wiggle the connector out of its socket with a plier

Boris - 16/05/20

removing the chin strap (the front bit of metal running along the bottom of where the screen was) makes this much easier as you can rotate the board and get to the underside

flow in - 25/05/20

Left index finger pushing on the tab from behind the connector, using needle pliers in right hand to rock up & down did the trick thanks @starfleet_tone

Frédérick Charette - 14/06/20

Just be careful! I’ve seen two systems where the socket was pulled fully off! So the logic board then needs repairs or replacing being just a bit too aggressive!

Dan - 14/06/20

Needle nose and wiggling worked for us too. We were stuggling like heck with it when just using hands!

Mike Manasewitsch - 11/09/20

This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first - more space to angle the board upwards. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board austauschen step 25.

Use a P00.

To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

Andrew Gough - 16/03/21

I did as Andrew Gough did, per other videos reviewed. Removed it right away. Just makes things easier, more space for just a few screws :)

Mike Rehbein - 12/04/21

The top right screw on the power supply actually screws into a stand-off screw connected to the back of the iMac case. Once you have removed the 4 x Torx 8 or 10 screws you can move the power supply enough to see the upper face of it.

It has a Torx 25 slot in it and comes out easily. This will give you a lot more room for your fingers in Step 40, depressing the tab on the DC power cable connector to pull it out, and when replacing it on reassembly. You may find it won’t require you removing the support bracket as in the suggestion above.

John Blagden -

I used your suggestion to remove the stand-off and then used my left hand index finger to press the tab while rocking the connector side to side with a needle nose pliers. Plug came out easily.

Dan Smith -

The tab is a pain in the a$$$ to get your finger in there. I was so horrified at the size of the capacitors that I put on gloves to reduce any amount of shock :-) . To get it loose I would pull out carefully the power board as far as I could than I wedge my index finger under and press the tab and slowly pull until I saw a slight gap between the end of the socket and the plug. I than place the flat part of the black spudger or blue one into the gap and use as it as a wedge to help move the plug forward as I kept the tab pressed.

Andrew Phillips -

Schritt 40

Sei ganz vorsichtig und berühre keine Lötstellen oder Kondensatorkabel auf der Rückseite der Versorgungsplatine. Fasse nur die Kanten an.
Drehe das obere Teil des Netzteils zu dir, so wie wenn man einen Briefkasten öffnet, um an das Stromnetzkabel zu kommen.
Löse den Anschluss des Stromnetzkabels.

To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

Dan H - 24/03/17

There is a small release tab on the cable.

Eric - 11/01/20

Wear gloves when doing this to reduce any shock. The size of those capacitors are very unnerving and scary. Also those solder joints.

Andrew Phillips -

Schritt 41

Drehe zwei 9,8 mm Torx T8 Schrauben heraus.

These are T10's, not T8's

loren -

I had one shorter one screw, and one screw shorter than the other two equal size speaker screws, but longer than the stubby screw. :) And I can confirm that these are T10s.

Patrick Vickers -

Schritt 42

Rücke den rechten Lautsprecher leicht nach rechts, um an seine Kabelverbindung zum Logic Board zu kommen.

Schritt 43

Löse den Stecker des rechten Lautsprecherkabels mit einem Spudger aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.
Ziehe den Stecker zum Ablösen nach rechts.

Schritt 44

Hebe den Lautsprecher nach oben und entferne ihn vom iMac.

Schritt 45

Mit der Spitze eines Spudgers kannst du den Verbindungsstecker des Lüfterkabels aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board lösen.

Schritt 46

Löse das schwarze Klebeband leicht ab, welches den Lüfter mit dem Abluftschacht verbindet.
Löse das Klebeband nicht ganz vom Abluftschacht ab - nur die Verbindungsstelle muss frei sein, damit der Lüfter ausgebaut werden kann.

Schritt 47

Entferne die drei 12,4 mm T10 Schrauben, die den Lüfter am Gehäuse befestigen.

Schritt 48

Enferne den Lüfter vom iMac.

Use a piece of tape around the antenna cables to keep them in the same order, makes reassembly a little easier.

Walter Hayden - 29/12/17

On reassembly, start the fan power connector into its socket while you slide the fan in.

ebay - 29/01/21

I left the antennas attached to the wifi card and removed the wifi card with wires attached. I accidentally broke one of the connectors on the wifi card and had to replace the entire card....

S. Baxter -

Schritt 49

Drehe die beiden 4 mm Torx T5 Schrauben heraus, mit denen die AirPort/Bluetooth-Antennenkabel befestigt sind.

Rather than unscrew the antenna cables, I usually unscrew the screws on the board and slide out the whole AirPort/Bluetooth module, which means I need not keep track of which antenna cable goes where.

johann beda - 15/12/20

Confirmed. 2 T5 screws, and pull the board straight up out of its socket behind he motherboard. Leave all cables attached.

ebay - 29/01/21

Schritt 50

Trenne jeden der vier Antennenstecker mit der Spudgerspitze von der Airport/Bluetooth Karte ab.
Beachte die originale Position der vier Verbinder beim Zusammenbau. Die Antennen sind von links nach rechts auf der Karte in dieser Reihenfolge verbunden:
ganz links
oben
oben rechts
unten rechts

Schritt 51

Das ist eine sehr empfindliche Verbindung, die leicht kaputt gehen kann.
Klappe die Metallhalterung auf dem iSight Kamerakabel nach oben.
Ziehe den Stecker des Kamerakabels senkrecht aus dem Anschluss zur Oberkante des iMac hin.

Schritt 52

Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers den Stecker des Kopfhörerbuchsenkabels aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.
Schiebe das Kabel behutsam aus dem Weg.

Schritt 53

Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Verbinder des Mikrofonkabels mit der Spudgerspitze hoch.
Achte darauf, dass du wirklich nur am Sicherungsbügel hebelst, und nicht am Anschluss.
Ziehe das Mikrofon-Flachbandkabel mit einer Pinzette gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus.

Schritt 54

Entferne folgende Schrauben, mit denen das Logic Board befestigt ist:
Zwei 23,7 mm Torx T8 Schrauben
Eine 20,1 mm Torx T25 Abstandshalterschraube
Eine 17,6 mm Torx T8 Schraube
Eine 7,2 mm Torx T8 Schraube
Drei 7,1 mm Torx T8 Schrauben
Eine unverlierbare Torx T8 Schraube
Diese Schraube befindet sich unter einem Loch im Logic Board. Wenn du keinen Schraubendreher von iFixit verwendest, benötigst du wahrscheinlich eine Verlängerung oder einen Schraubendreher mit langem Schaft.

A 3.0 Hex driver worked for the T25 spacer screw.

johann beda - 15/12/20

1/8” hex worked, too

ebay - 29/01/21

For the T25 I used a regular chisel tip screw driver that was exactly the width between two opposite sides of the Torx star

The standoff is only screwed in by two or so turns and came out very easily for me

So you shouldn't have to force it and damage threads

Eoin -

Schritt 55

Ziehe das SATA-Kabel und den Stecker der Festplatte durch die rechte Festplattenhalterung. Bewge das Kabel auf die rechte Seite des iMac aus dem Weg für den Abluftschacht.
Das SATA Festplattenkabel kann im Moment noch nicht ganz entfernt werden, dies wird jedoch beim Entfernen des Logic Boards passieren.

Schritt 56

Drehe die beiden 5,6 mm Torx T8 Schrauben aus dem oberen Teil der Kühleröffnung.

Schritt 57

Achte beim Ein- und Ausbau des Logic Boards darauf, dass du nicht das empfindliche Mikrofon-Flachbandkabel unten links am Logic Board beschädigst.
Kippe das Logic Board leicht nach vorne.
Hebe das Logic Board nach oben und aus dem iMac heraus. Sei vorsichtig, dass du an keinen Schraubenpfosten kratzt, die im Gehäuseinneren hervorstehen.

Schritt 58

Beim späteren Zusammenbau musst du darauf achten, dass alle äusseren I/O Anschlüsse sauber in die Öffnungen passen. Das Logic Board könnte schief sitzen, sogar wenn alle Schrauben befestigt sind.
Du kannst einen USB-Stecker oder ein Ethernetkabel benutzten, um den korrekten Sitz des Logic Boards zu gewährleisten während du es festschraubst.

Insbesondere die USB3.1 Port sollten mit einem Stecker belegt werden! Ich habe nur die USB3.0 (A?) Ports mit Steckern belegt und konnte nach dem Zusammenbau alle Port benutzen, aber nicht die USB3.1 (C) Ports. Am besten überall einen Stecker rein.

Boris Boesler - 04/01/21

Schritt 59

Ziehe den Verbindungsstecker der SATA Stromversorgung nach oben und trenne ihn ab.
Drücke auf die Sicherungslasche am SATA Datenkabelstecker und ziehe den Stecker nach oben ab.
Entferne das SATA Kabel vom Logic Board, damit es nicht beschädigt wird.

Where is this cable sold

mert - 02/03/17

Is this picture correct with 7 pins? Or is it form the 5k version? (See comments on that case below).

There is an cable on eBay with 5 pins.

Steve Nilsen - 04/12/18

This guide was written the year before the 5K model first came out. The cable in the photo is definitely for the model listed, although it’s always possible Apple made more than one variation.

Jeff Suovanen - 04/12/18

Hey, if you got this far and your iMac is getting along in years, maybe pick up a BR2032 battery and replace the PRAM battery while you’re at it, as you have to get to this point to access it.

Tom - 23/12/18

I'm waiting on the battery now! I have a CR2032 in the house, but I looked them up, and they're too different to make me comfortable using one. And I accidentally ordered the BR3032, AAAGH. Sigh. Stupid Amazon put them side by side, and I clicked on the wrong one. :) Must've been Amazon's fault. :) But for sure, I was looking at my computer in pieces, and I looked at that battery, and I thought, wait, when was this thing built? 2017? Um. Might be time for a change.

Patrick Vickers -

Tom, great tip on the battery. I put a new one in my 3½ year old iMac.

Dave Hoppenrath - 07/11/19

Could have used a warning that this cable is not present in models that shipped with a SSD. I was replacing my blade SSD and adding a new SSD at the same time, only to find that I was missing this cable while my iMac was in pieces. Had to reassemble it without adding the SATA SSD, major hassle.

Matt Stamm -

This is a bit of a grey space.

Clearly you don’t need the cable if you are replacing the HDD or switching it out of a SSD. Its only when you are enhancing your system by adding a drive which you didn’t have before.

Dan -

Yeah, it's tricky on that cable. I watched a Snazzy Labs video on upgrading the i5 to an i7 (which left out lots of stuff, thank goodness for this guide and you folks), and in that video he mentioned that you might or might not find the cable inside your mac, so I went ahead and ordered one, and of course, one was in my computer, despite that it had an SSD in it. Was it because it was an upgraded SSD? I dunno. But I'm certainly sorry you had to deal with that, especially as while the difficulty isn't too high on this one, there's SO. MANY. STEPS.
Sigh.

Patrick Vickers -

Schritt 60

Entferne die einzelne 5,3 mm T8 Schraube, die die SSD am Logic Board befestigt.

What type och screw is this? I just need the measurements, is it a standard M-size screw?

Peter - 30/10/14

Did you find out any details about the screw in the end?

djones - 24/04/20

I am also searching for the right screw. There wasn’t one there before as there was no M.2 SSD there before (late 2015 iMac with HDD configuration). It’s definitely smaller than the T8 Torx’s I have been taking out so far.

Boris - 16/05/20

I bought the 1TB PCIe SSD for my 5K iMac (late 2015). Worked like a charm without any hiccups; great vendor: https://beetstech.com/product/solid-stat...

Shaheen Ghiassy - 17/05/18

Schritt 61

Der Anschluss der SSD darf nicht beschädigt werden, hebe das Ende der SSD deswegen nicht mehr als etwa 15˚ an.
Hebe die SSD leicht an und ziehe sie aus ihrem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
Achte beim Wiedereinbau darauf, dass die SSD richtig im Anschluss sitzt, bevor du die Schraube anziehst.

this ssd is not for a late 2013!

this is 2012 year

cslbox - 21/08/14

What do you mean? I'm going to buy a ssd to add it in my imac 27 late 2013 the came without it.

Which part I need?

MrSchaeffer - 03/11/14

I think what he meant to say is the SSD shown (Samsun) is for a late 2013. The 2014 iMac uses a Sandisk unit (see the 5k teardown).

Ifixit have made the mistake of referencing the late 2013 iMac teardown photos here.

Brent - 08/12/14

Not get confused! Apple used different vendors of their SSD’s both SanDisk & Samsung supplied SSD’s in this series.

Dan - 09/12/19

Which SSD is used in this tutorial?

Lok - 09/11/15

For the 2012 iMac 27”, I can confirm the Blade SSD is an 8+18 pin SSDD and I believe this is a SATA drive, NOT a PCIe (NVMe) drive. I took my 2012 apart to try to add an NVMe drive with 2013 macbook adapter, and it does not fit. I didn’t have an adapter that worked so I just replaced the 3.5” HDD with a 2TB SATA 2.5” SSD and left the blade slot empty.

The SSD drives available from OWC have speeds consistent with SATA drives, so I think the benefit of replacing or filling the blade slot are pretty minimal unless you’re really trying to maximize your available storage space, in which case it’s likely better to invest in an external or network attached solution.

TL;DR 2012 iMac is an 8+18 pin setup that is likely SATA, not PCI-E so just replace the HDD with a big SATA drive.

Jakegub - 09/12/19

Here’s a good source of info The Ultimate Guide to Apple’s Proprietary SSDs And BeetsTech is a good source for the SSD’s

Dan - 09/12/19

iMac 27” 2019!

I did it ;-) and ist works fine … but I had no microfon after reinstall. I had put the adhesive strips over the mic holes.

So I need to open again with a new pair of adhesive strips ;-)

I Have installed a Samsung NVME SSD 970 EVO 1TB with the “long” sintech adapter and a Sandisk Ultra SSD 2TB (SATA).

Matthias - 23/12/19

I am about to do this to my 27” late 2015. Haven’t decided on which Blade SSD to use yet. But I have bought af Crucial MX500 2 TB SSD SATA.

I have read a lot of problems with the Samsung NVME SSD 970 EVO.

Also read a lot about needing a SATA cable from OWC (OWCDIDIMacHDD12) In-Line Digital Thermal Sensor for 27-Inch iMac, to ensure the fann does not spin uncontrollably.

Have you had any problems with your setup with the Samsung SSD, and did you use the OWC cable ?

Lars - 19/01/20

I also did it with the same adapter, ordered for a few bucks from china.

I’m usign the 970 EVO Plus 1TB, they have updated the firmware and it works out of the box.

The firmware for older models can be updated directly on the mac with the updater from Samsung (can be installed on a USB stick and used to start the mac with it)

The standard 970 EVO does not have had the firmware issues, just the Plus had in the past.

For the blade SSD no OWC cable is required, that is only if a SATA-HDD is replaced by a SATA-SSD, thats a completely different thing.

maccy - 09/05/20

Is there supposed to be a heatsink attached to the replacement drive? I don't recall receiving one in the OWC package and I am seeing temps hitting 190 F (almost 88 C) under heavy load.

Maurice Volaski - 05/02/20

No heat sink on the blade SSD, you could add one but it won’t really change what you are facing here.

It does sound like your SSD maybe to small (and/or your system needs more RAM) given what you are doing.

Keep in mind boot drive (SSD here) is used for virtual RAM, caching and depending on the app scratch space. You want to leave at least 1/4 of the drive empty for best performance. 256 GB or smaller drives will need 1/3 reserved.

Dan - 05/02/20

How to boot the system after replacing the ssd? Where is the recovery partition? I have followed all the steps but the screen is black and not even the question mark is displayed.

LETRA -

Then you have an issue with your installation as you should be treated with a flashing question mark. Check your displays connections and maybe see if an external display works. Did you use the proper tools and technique within the guide to lift the display off? Many people have damaged the display in the process if they don’t follow the guide to the letter.

Dan -

Installed a 2019 SSD in my late 2015 iMac retina, purchased from fast_macs on eBay AOK with nearly 1900MB/s write 1800MB/s read (ish). Also installed Apple 2TB drive too whilst I was doing it.

Amuseme -

The 2017 and 2019 SSDs should be the same (or very similar). Both are SSPOLARIS and the same generation. I’m in the middle of doing the same on mine (mid 2017), going from a 2TB Fusion to a straight 1TB blade.

I purchased this one, based on the excellent feedback:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/144429279418...

orrelljet - 15/03/22

If I install a new 2TB SSD to replace my HDD (2019 imac 27), do I have to install a new logic board SSD? I’d rather not have a fusion config any longer (S/W seems buggy - hence my fusion drive problems). I’d much rather have just the new 2TP SSD in place of the old HDD, if possible?

Chuck Lott -

Replacing your SATA HDD for a SSD makes a lot of sense! Any size will work.

You should pull the blade SSD which was mated to the HDD to create the Fusion Drive pair.

Dan -

Thanks Dan - blade SSD to be discarded!

Chuck Lott -

iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD tauschen

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