iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and 2118 CPU Replacement

Geschrieben von: gordonhamachi
  • Kommentare: 74
iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and 2118 CPU Replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Very difficult

Schritte

48

Zeitaufwand

10 Stunden

Einleitung

Here are detailed instructions showing how to turn your iMac 4,1 into an iMac 5,1. I'm filling in some gaps in this procedure for upgrading a 2006 iMac.

I replaced the Core Duo T2600 CPU in my iMac4,1 with a Core 2 Duo T7600, which is the fastest replacement CPU for this iMac. I bought the replacement CPU on eBay for $25.89 from an overseas seller. The price was right but it took almost a month for the CPU to show up in my mailbox.

After replacing the CPU and updating the firmware, the resulting computer is equivalent to an iMac 5,1. It is now possible to install 4 GB of RAM, though the computer can only address 3 GB.

The best reason for upgrading the CPU is to be able to install MacOS X 10.7 Lion. This is surprisingly tricky to do.

  1. SVdq5DjEEbPY35bT
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    • Loosen the two Phillips screws securing the access door to your iMac.

    • Both screws remain captive within the access door.

    • Remove the access door.

    • Before beginning the repair, unplug the computer and press and hold the power switch for 20-30 seconds, to discharge internal capacitors.

    Swapping in a new CPU and an SSD took me about 10 hours. I did take a dinner break and spent another hour rooting around in my garage to find my thermal paste. Still, this procedure can take a long time.

    gordonhamachi -

    Only a french translation proposal. We use to say “démontage” instead of “installation'“ in that specific case. ;-) (Dismantling)

    francis barbier -

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    • Remove the following screws along the lower edge of your iMac:

    • Three 6 mm T8 Torx screws

    • One 8 mm T8 Torx screw (Right side of the RAM slot on 2105)

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    • Re-orient your iMac so it sits upright on the stand.

    • Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot near the top of the rear case.

    • Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.

    • Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.

    • Repeat this process for the other side of the front bezel.

    • It may be necessary to apply several layers of duct tape to the top of the access card to aid in releasing the latches. Or use two cards for the additional thickness.

    • If the bezel refuses to release, try lifting the lower edge of the front bezel slightly away from the rear case (detailed in the next few steps) and repeat the latch release process.

    I have never seen a pict of the bezel latch, I hope this picture link helps you to figure out what is inside that you need the cc to hit to release, I had a tough time making it work but managed just before I gave up! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb35/...

    ReneBruce -

    the photo of latch is no longer there at Photobucket

    rmshreffler -

    When you put this back together, make sure you place the bevel latches UNDER/INSIDE the case frame.

    robino -

    Zitat von ReneBruce:

    I have never seen a pict of the bezel latch, I hope this picture link helps you to figure out what is inside that you need the cc to hit to release, I had a tough time making it work but managed just before I gave up! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb35/...

    Thanks, your picture helped me.

    robino -

    Rather than through the vent at the back. Ease the bottom of the front bezel away from the screen and then in the gap created between the screen and the front bezel, insert your card here and push up to release the latch. This is especially the method to use, if you have already tried everything else above, as you may have bent the latches, and you'll never get them to relase the conventional way.

    Charlie -

    Good tip. I sort of did this out of desperation before reading this. Seem to work to get it apart. I'll have to see about getting it back together.

    David Sutherland -

    On the 24 inch model, there are no latches. Instead the front bezel has four tabs which slot into the rear case. It's very easy to remove.

    manfred -

    Wow, I really got stuck on the bezel. I tried a credit card, even a flexible metal scraper, nope nothing budged. I finally got going with help from this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzuBW3mu7... which the guy has the machine lying on its back, then you can carefully bend the front bezel up until you see the latches, and I got the scraper in front of the screen and un-did the latches that way. Onto the next step!

    sleestack -

    Replaced one of the redundant images of the card going into the slot, with the previously linked image of the latch itself. I was struggling to figure out how to get the thing open, thinking it was a latch that pushed *up* to the top of the system, but it actually pushes *forward* towards the screen. That accounts for the bending of the card, and the excess length required to insert it. After figuring that out, the case came off nicely.

    Matt Falcon -

    Apple uses a powerful magnet to release these latches, but the official tool is not available. If you have access to a few failed hard drives, you can take out the magnets from those, and stack them up to have a magnet strong enough to easily open these latches.

    Simply place the magnet on an upper corner of the machine, and when you hear a click, gently pull the corner of the front case forward. Repeat the process for the other upper corner. Use care not to pull on the iSight cables.

    Note: Use care when handling the hard drive magnets, they are powerful, and you don't want them to snap together on your fingers. OUCH!

    Zaphod -

    This was perfect! I wish the original instructions mentioned the magnets.

    I used magnets I pilfered from an old hard drive.

    veganmo -

    This is definitely the hardest part of this repair. I ended up doing what Charlie did and got it off after a lot of frustration.

    aseisman -

    The iMacs I've taken apart open simply with a magnet. I made a video to show exactly how the latch works inside. You do need a strong magnet like the hard drive internal magnet suggestion however they can be found in many places, just look for 'rare earth' or 'neodymium' and you'll find one. probably .3" cube would be big enough.

    http://youtu.be/yvq035edr-I

    there is the video that shows how the latch works. of course you may need TWO magnets to do both latches at the same time.

    awr -

    Save yourself some headache and get a magnet for this. I used these: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PWMVSI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Sometimes just one will do the job, other times I've had to use all 4 together.

    Much easier than trying to use a card.

    maccentric -

    sleestack is right on. The youtube vid is excellent for sliding the case right off without spudges and cards, etc. The vid's still there as of today, 9/30/2014. And the guy's foil removal is right on target, too. Very simple to replace the battery. I use this old 2006 computer with an old version of the PC program for Jobclock and only for that with Parallels 6 running the PC app. Don't want to upgrade or change anything at this point, going to milk it a couple more years. Got a nice big i5 for everything else. Oh, happy day.

    infoghost -

    Apple designed the latch to be released with a Magnet. That's it. That is the tool to be used.

    Avoid frustration, hassles, wasted time: simply buy a "neodimio" Magnet.

    Actually yes – IMHO It would have preferred iFixtit had mentioned a MAGNET to release the front Bezel, the credit card in an awkward and misleading (and not so smart) method.

    I hope iFixit will change Step 3.

    Giacomo Santerini -

    Be very careful here. One of the sides did not release using the plastic card. I tried to push it a bit but it would not give. It did work using 2 cards. What I did not realized until the very end, when I turned the imac back on, is that I broke the display. Thanks a lot ifixit. I get the hard drive back to work now but with a damaged display. And I can't even buy a replacement one from you.

    patmainville -

    Yes the screens in these machines are easy to break. I've opened these sorts of machines at least a 40 times. You do need to be very careful with the display. The won't take any pressure from a wayward thumb or finger etc. I have broken one once, trying to get a latch to give. You have to be very conscious not to out any fingers in the display at all.

    BUT, how you think this is anyone's but your own fault is beyond me. iFixit has no blame to take here.

    Please everyone, read through all instructions carefully and learn from others'.

    And to this poster, go buy one of these machines from eBay or find in one in hard rubbish to repair yours. These white iMacs are almost 10 years old now. And are scrap in most people's minds.

    Charlie Nancarrow -

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    • Lay your iMac stand-side down on a flat surface.

    • To lift the front bezel off the iMac, simultaneously:

    • Use your thumbs to press in the RAM arms and hold the iMac down.

    • Use your index fingers to pull the small bridge of material on the front bezel toward yourself.

    • Pull the front bezel up with your index fingers.

    • Once the small bridge of material has cleared the RAM arms, lift the front bezel by its lower edge just enough to clear the bottom edge of the rear case.

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    • Lift the front bezel off the rear case and rotate it away from the bottom edge of the iMac, minding the camera and microphone cables still attached to its upper edge.

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    • If necessary, remove the strip of tape covering the microphone cable connector.

    • The microphone connector is located near the inside of top edge of your iMac.

    i posted a note on the next page about disconnecting the microphone and camera cable. may help. reed it before disconnect.

    sebalancea -

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    • Disconnect the microphone cable.

    • Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the camera board.

    • The camera cable connector and socket are delicate and easily bent. Remove with caution.

    there's no need to disconnect the microphone and camera cable. you can work against a wall and carefully rest the frame and the display on the wall.

    sebalancea -

    Zitat von sebalancea:

    there's no need to disconnect the microphone and camera cable. you can work against a wall and carefully rest the frame and the display on the wall.

    I didn't even use the wall, I just carefully pivoted the frame backwards and laid it on the table without disconnecting the wires

    Bob -

    Be careful. My microphone and camera cables looked a little bit different from this. My camera cable connector did NOT plug directly into the camera board (and I almost tried pulling the cable out of the board), but rather there was a cable to cable connector that was stuffed behind the monitor. I had to skip this step until the monitor was out. I have an early 2006 20" iMac.

    avcaruso -

    My Mac had a different camera board and it didn't appear that the cables could be detached. Leaving them in place and propping up the back of the case worked for me.

    gordonhamachi -

    I agree, no need to disconnect. I used a bunch of books (heavy books), to keep the monitor frame upright.

    osfanatic -

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    • Peel up the lower EMI shield from the rear case.

    • It is only necessary to peel the shield up from three sides. Leave it attached to the display.

    • If you happen to rip the EMI shield, use a piece of foil tape to cover the tear.

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    • Tape the EMI shield to the face of the display to keep it out of the way.

    I didn't see the need to tape the foil to the display (and I didn't want to get any sticky residue on the screen), so I skipped this bit with no problems.

    Bob -

    Zitat von Bob:

    I didn't see the need to tape the foil to the display (and I didn't want to get any sticky residue on the screen), so I skipped this bit with no problems.

    I agree, and tape doesn't stick to the screen (I tried and the tape came loose before I was done)

    Wizbang FL -

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    • Remove the two 5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable connector to the logic board.

    • Pull the display data cable connector up off the logic board by its black pull tab.

    This would be a really good time to change the PRAM battery. They only last 4-5 years, and cost very little. It'll save another teardown in the near future. (3v CR2032)

    Bob -

    Zitat von Bob:

    This would be a really good time to change the PRAM battery. They only last 4-5 years, and cost very little. It'll save another teardown in the near future. (3v CR2032)

    Good idea, I just replaced this. $5 @ radioshack.

    sleestack -

    I found that disconnecting the display cable at the LCD end was easier. There are 2 v small clips either side of the ribbon cable, squeeze together and the cable disconnects from the panel.

    KazR -

    on this step I just forgot (there always something to forget!!) to connect back display data cable connector to the logic board, after I replaced the hard drive. Don't worry nothing happens. Hwen I switched on the iMac and it was just functioning alright and normal but I wasn't able see anything other than a black screen :)

    If you got a black screen but a normal white light on the right bottom corner, think abot the connector !

    joleisa -

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    • Peel back the EMI tape from the two vertical edges of the display.

    • During reassembly, it is helpful to use several small strips of tape to hold the EMI shielding along the left and right edges of the display footprint out of the way before lowering the display into the rear case of your iMac.

    This is tricky and took some time and patience. It is best to have some foil tape handy because the EMF shield tears easily. Likewise when reinstalling the screen and EMF shield, it helps to have a partner who can stop the foil to the side of the screen from getting folded under the screen when you lower it back into position, ready to tape it back onto the edge of the screen.

    mindzeebeez -

    Zitat von mindzeebeez:

    This is tricky and took some time and patience. It is best to have some foil tape handy because the EMF shield tears easily. Likewise when reinstalling the screen and EMF shield, it helps to have a partner who can stop the foil to the side of the screen from getting folded under the screen when you lower it back into position, ready to tape it back onto the edge of the screen.

    I found that using the plastic card to remove the cover worked well in lifting the EM tape from the screen. Also step 10 & 11 appear to be reversed since you can't get to the screws until you have lifted up the display (this can only occur once you have dealt with the EM shield)

    Wizbang FL -

    Peeling back the tape was very time consuming. I bet the pros just cut it and patch with new metallic tape. This step was the worst.

    gordonhamachi -

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    • Allow the lower EMI shield to hang down from the display.

    • Remove the four 7.5 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.

    • The screws are recessed, so a thin magnetic screwdriver aids in removal. Most bit drivers are too short to reach these screws.

    This is a Torx T-9 on the 24" iMac Core Duo

    jrmn -

    Zitat von jrmn:

    This is a Torx T-9 on the 24" iMac Core Duo

    This is also a Torx T-9 on my 20" iMac Core Duo, probably manuf'd around the same time.

    Daniel -

    Zitat von Daniel:

    This is also a Torx T-9 on my 20" iMac Core Duo, probably manuf'd around the same time.

    My mistake, it's actually a T-10, but the T-9 was the only one I could get to work due to the limited angle.

    Daniel -

    I believe this is where the $4.95 looong T-10 screwdriver shown in the recommended tools would have come in handy. We managed to make the driver from the 54 bit set work by holding the bit driver with a vice grip, which made it possible to get down in there. The various holders that came with the set were just a hair too thick.

    Justina Hayden -

    These four screws are tricky to deal with. They are well recessed and hard to spot at first. A magnetised screwdriver is a prerequisite. Another way is to glue the screw heads to the screwdriver with some very weak glue, and let it almost set before trying to locate the screws back into their holes whilst re-assembling. I lost one screw somewhere inside the computer! It is alright with 3 but I hope it doesn't touch something vulnerable on the circuit board.

    mindzeebeez -

    Zitat von mindzeebeez:

    These four screws are tricky to deal with. They are well recessed and hard to spot at first. A magnetised screwdriver is a prerequisite. Another way is to glue the screw heads to the screwdriver with some very weak glue, and let it almost set before trying to locate the screws back into their holes whilst re-assembling. I lost one screw somewhere inside the computer! It is alright with 3 but I hope it doesn't touch something vulnerable on the circuit board.

    Try sticking the screw onto the driver with a tiny piece of blu-tac. Worked for me.

    Bob -

    I found it easiest to lie the computer on its back and rest all four screws in the display. Then all you have to do is lower the display slowly and evenly. The tricky part with this method is to make sure the EMI shield doesn't catch on the screws on the way down.

    Andrew -

    If your Torx screwdriver isn't magnetized, rub the tip 8-10 times on the magnet inside the white plastic cover (the one that holds the remote to the side of the monitor). Prestro... your Torx screwdriver is now magnetized!

    John Way -

    I used a strong wall magnet to magnetize my screwdriver. It worked perfectly! Your tip was very helpful and pointed me to an answer that worked for me.

    osfanatic -

    The lower left screw of the display can be sometimes reached directly from the corner rather through the hole.

    Bob -

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    • Lift the lower edge of the display and rotate it toward the top edge of your iMac.

    • Do not lift it too much, as the inverter cables are still attached.

    If you remove the inverter wires after dealing with the EM shield you can flip the display without detaching the LCD data cable. Use the foot of the iMac (with a towel to protect the display) to hold the display while you work inside.

    Wizbang FL -

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    • Disconnect both inverter cables from the inverter board.

    • These connectors are seated very tightly in their sockets. It is helpful to use your fingernails or the tip of a spudger to push the ears on either side of the connectors to dislodge them from their sockets. A small pair of hemostats helps a lot.

    The 17" model is nearly identical until this point. You will not have to disconnect on the 17" model for either Step 15 or Step 16.

    robino -

    Watch out when reconnecting the inverter cables - the little pins on the inverter board are very easily bent indeed when the plug isn’t put back totally straight. I happened to bend one on the lower edge, resulting in the display being only dimly lit in the lower half and requiring me to open the machine once more. Since I only flipped up the display unit (as in some of the comments on step 16) I could skip step 15 and never touched the inverter cables on the top edge of the inverter board.

    Hartmut Vodermaier -

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    • Disconnect the two inverter cables at the top edge of the inverter using the method explained in the previous step.

    I would mark the top of the large inverter cable connectors somehow, with a marker or pencil. My connectors had writing on the bottom, not the top as pictured, and I bent the pins trying to reinsert it incorrectly since the top and bottom look similar. Nearly all the other connectors have an obvious top and bottom.

    Marko -

    Take pictures with iPhone of all tricky connectors and refer to them on reassembly:-)

    Macrepair SF -

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    • Rotate the display until it is nearly perpendicular to the rear case and lift it up to peel it off the EMI shield stuck to its top edge.

    You don't need to peel off the display from the top. Just lean it toward a wall etc. in a perpendicular angle. If you don't move the mac while you perform the following steps, it won't flip or fall down. You can also save step 15 this way, as the wires are long enough to stay connected.

    Martin -

    Why peel it off? I just left it there in the perpendicular position leaning against the wall. Didn't annoy me at all when I changed the hard drive.

    alex, Jul 02 2012

    alexanderfaussner -

    I've seen a few people comment having found their Airport dead after hard drive swap. It's really easy to rip off the wire from Airport antenna (up there nearby the mic and camera, to the left from them). The wire goes through the holes of upside EMI shielding and raising the display too high while trying to peel the shielding off can yank the wire so it gets loose from the soldering.

    Tee -

    It looks like I'm late to the party but here goes anyway... I have Ubuntu Kylin installed on my iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and I want to use the iMac's display for my Linux install on that unit AND be able to switch the video going to the screen from my iMac to what's displayed on my Mac Mini. I think what I'm asking is how can I split the display so I can switch the video input to the video card from one machine to another.

    Frederick C -

    You do not have to disassemble the logic board! At this point, you have to disassemble the hard disk, unscrew the 4 screws and the big power connector. The second small cable, without disassembling the motherboard, is enough to make it pass sideways, pulling away with a bit of force on plastic and the beat sink. The small sponge gasket must be removed and then rested. 3 minutes in total from this point!

    gentissi -

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    • Remove the single T10 Torx screw securing the left speaker to the rear case.

    • Pull the left speaker out of the rear case.

    • The screw for the left speaker is longer than the screw for the right speaker.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up off the AirPort Extreme card.

    • Some models may have only one AirPort antenna wire.

    I only had one of these connectors on the Airport extreme card (in the lower position).

    Ed Schrank -

    I am nearly certain I put the same connectors back in the same positions but am hoping it doesn't matter as this wasn't addressed as important to remember. Look for an update note if my airport doesn't work right away.

    bhoffs -

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    • Use a metal spudger to disconnect the SATA data cable up off the logic board.

    • The SATA connector on most iMacs tends to stick in its socket on the logic board. If you are having trouble disconnecting the SATA cable, insert a metal spudger or any other thin tool into the gap between the SATA connector and its socket and twist the spudger's shaft to safely separate the two pieces.

    Be really careful disconnecting the SATA cable. Don't tug too hard, or tug at all really. I broke mine clear off the board and according to multiple sources it's not easy/worth trying to fix. So now it can't read the internal hard drive anymore.

    theseekeroftruth -

    How you fix it? I had the same situation.

    Gregori Martínez -

    While pulling on the SATA cable, the entire plastic socket base came off in my hand, leaving a bunch of metal socket prongs sticking up in the air. Fortunately I was able to push the plastic socket base back onto the prongs. Next time I'm going to skip this step, as it isn't really necessary.

    gordonhamachi -

    I had the same situation and it seems it is stick with glue or something. I was not able to put it back again. Any tip?

    Gregori Martínez -

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    • Pull the IR board cable connector away from its socket on the IR board.

    • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

    In fact it is easier to unscrew (T6) the metallic support and leave the card attached to the cables

    Destouches Philippe -

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    • De-route the speaker cables from beneath the IR Board and heatsink assembly.

    I had to loosen the IR board (two Torx T6 screws) to make space to get the speaker wire out.

    gordonhamachi -

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    • Remove the single T10 Torx screw securing the right speaker to the logic board.

    • Lift the right speaker out of the rear case and move it out of the way.

    • Both speakers are still attached to the logic board by the speaker cable.

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    • Disconnect the speaker cable connector by lifting it straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

    Mine was assembled with the Bluetooth connector ran such that it precludes removing the speakers completely, meaning step 28 had to be done while I was over there.

    Carl Pearson -

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    • Disconnect the HDD fan and power button from the logic board by pulling their connectors straight up off the sockets on the logic board.

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    • If necessary, remove the pieces of tape holding the SATA data cable to the logic board.

    • Move the SATA data cable away from the face of the logic board.

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    • Disconnect the DC-In cable by simultaneously depressing both locking arms and pulling its connector away from the socket on the logic board toward the top of your iMac.

    • After both locking arms pass their retaining tabs, it is helpful to push the arms toward the top edge of your iMac while wiggling the connector.

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    • Pull the ambient light sensor cable connector up off the logic board.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the Bluetooth antenna cable connector up off the Bluetooth board.

    Apologies for the ignorance, but would using a spudger on something like the Bluetooth antenna connector necessarily break it? Will some special glue be required to re-attatch? I will definitely take this challenge up (better than buying a new computer and very rewarding), but it's little things like that that give me pause.

    projectjce -

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    • Carefully de-route the IR board cable out from under the IR board and move it out of the way of the logic board.

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    • Disconnect the following connectors from the logic board:

    • Camera/IR board cable.

    • Optical drive fan.

    • When removing the optical drive fan connector, it is helpful to use a spudger or your fingernails to push the ears on either side of the connector toward the top edge of the iMac.

    • To aid in removing the camera/IR board connector, it is helpful to use one hand to pinch the cables against a spudger and pull up toward the top edge of the iMac while pulling up gently on the cables with your other hand.

    The camera/IR connector was a real nightmare. The connector deformed and started disintegrating when I tried to remove it. Rather than destroy my computer, I just pushed the connect back as near as I could, and moved on. Luckily, it is possible to perform the procedure without taking off this cable.

    gordonhamachi -

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    • Disconnect the optical drive thermal sensor cable from the logic board by pulling its connector away from the socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

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    • Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the optical drive ribbon cable connector to the logic board.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.

    • The connector is most easily removed when prying from the top or bottom of the connector.

    • Bend the optical drive ribbon cable back away from the logic board.

    • Be very careful when moving the optical drive ribbon cable as it is delicate and easily ripped.

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    • Disconnect the following connectors from the logic board:

    • Hard drive thermal sensor cable.

    • CPU fan cable.

    • When removing these connectors, it is helpful to push the ears on either side of the connector with your fingernails or the tip of a spudger toward the top edge of the iMac.

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    • Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the top of the heat sink framework to the chassis.

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    • Remove the following seven screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • Three coarse-thread T10 Torx.

    • Three fine-thread T10 Torx.

    • One long coarse-thread T10 Torx.

    when I was removing the one long coarse-thread (yellow one), its support beneath it broke. I was very careful actually but I think these things unavoidable if you are threading an old computer (I am using it after 1 week its release)

    so I put some glue (very very little quantity) in its remaining hole, just to keep the screw in that hole

    joleisa -

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    • Carefully rotate the top edge of the logic board out of the rear case and lift the board up out of the iMac, minding the RAM arms and any cables that may get caught.

    • Be especially careful with the hard drive thermal sensor cable that is routed underneath the heat sink framework.

    • Only handle the logic board by its edges.

    Turning the logic board to remove it, pay attention to the side rubber rails, and underlying adhesive that seals the doors behind the imac

    Alberto Collu -

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    • Remove the 6.1 mm T8 Torx screw from both sides of the heat sink nearest the logic board (two screws total).

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    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Eight 7.8 mm T8 Torx.

    • Two 6.1 mm T8 Torx.

    • If the eight screws around the processors refuse to unscrew, use a Phillips screwdriver to hold the lug from the one side of the board while you remove the Torx screw from the other side.

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    • Carefully lift both metal heat sink brackets off the logic board.

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    • Lift the logic board off the heat sinks.

    • If a heat sink seems to be stuck, carefully pry it away from the logic board to separate the solidified thermal paste.

    • If you need to mount the heat sink back into the iMac, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

    • During reinstallation it is helpful to install the heat sinks one at a time, starting with the one closest to the logic board.

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    • The CPU is mounted in a Zero Insertion Force (ZIF) socket. If you (gently!) try to pull the CPU out of its socket, you will find that it does not budge. You first need to release the chip from the socket. Turn the screw on the CPU socket 180 degrees counter-clockwise to release the old CPU. Then pull up on the CPU chip to remove it.

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    • Insert your new CPU into the ZIF socket. Note that two pins are missing from one corner of the grid. Match that corner with the corner of the socket that is missing the corresponding holes. Drop the chip in; it should go in without effort. Rotate the screw on the socket 180 degrees clockwise to lock the new CPU in place.

    • When reassembling don't forget to scrape off the old thermal paste and apply a new dose. The iFixit guide is good, but I was too cheap/impatient to follow those instructions. Instead I used a q-tip to swab rubbing alcohol on the heat sink and chip tops. Then I put on a dab of leftover heat sink paste that came with a CPU cooler for my PC.

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    • Download the iMac41-iMac51 firmware updater from netkas.org. You have to register (free) before you can see the download. Follow the instructions there to update your firmware. After rebooting, your iMac4,1 now reports that it is an iMac5,1!

    I tried running the utility to upgrade my firmware, but it only gives me “error 5530” any advice?

    Nicolas Ash -

    You can follow these instructions: http://6temrepair.free.fr/HOWTO.txt

    It works perfectly, I installed the 5.1 firmware on an iMac 2006 A1174, using this method (with error 5530) ...

    ohmymac -

    • Here is a link for purchasing MacOSX 10.7 from the App Store. Wait a few days to receive the download key. The App Store will not let you download the Lion installer on your modified Mac. Download it instead from a newer Macintosh, by clicking the Download button under Purchases. Ignore any warnings. Find the download in /Applications.

    • After booting into Lion, do a Software Update to bring your Mac up to date.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

gordonhamachi

Mitglied seit: 20/12/14

2781 Reputation

4 Kommentare

So I basically performed this: https://www.tekrevue.com/stayin-alive-up...

EXCEPT it does NOT boot with the new CPU in it. It is already an iMac 5,1 with the newer Firmware and already recognizes the 4GB of RAM and already has the latest Firmware version as well from Apple. It boots with 10.9.5 on a SSD with all the modified kexts etc. everything works based on what it can do. the CPU is the ONLY variable that causes problems. There is NO boot chime, the fans spin up super fast and loud. There is also NO screen display as well. Attempting to do CMD+OPT+P+R has no effect with the newer T7600 2.33 installed. I even swapped out the RAM module between single installs 1 at a time and in different banks, no change. And I only get 2/3 LED 1&2 of the lights that come on not LED 3. But it does come on with the original CPU. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Cory S -

My only experience is with EMC2105, not EMC2118 (I inherited EMC2118 from an existing guide that I leveraged). I wonder what would happen if you downgraded your firmware to an iMac 4,1 and then performed the CPU upgrade procedure. That might work if the firmware installer detects the CPU and does some CPU-specific setup. On the other hand, that would be risky as it might brick your system. I’d probably just live with the slightly slower original iMac 5,1 CPU (T7400 at 2.16 GHz) unless you feel lucky or want to contribute to the collective knowledge.

gordonhamachi -

Will the SSD work with this model instead of original HDD?

vadim10 -

Yes, an SSD will work. There’s even a repair guide (authored by someone else) explaining how to install a new hard drive or SSD. iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and 2118 Hard Drive Replacement

gordonhamachi -