iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2308 CPU austauschen

Geschrieben von: Andrew Bookholt
  • Kommentare: 104
iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2308 CPU austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Sehr schwierig

Schritte

42

Zeitaufwand

45 Minuten - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Hier wird gezeigt, wie du die CPU deines iMac aufrüsten kannst.

  1. FXWjcIkkEHjIxXmo
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    • Die Klappe ist mit drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben an der Unterseite des iMac befestigt. Drehe sie heraus.

    • Die Schrauben bleiben in der Klappe hängen.

    • Entferne die Klappe.

    • Setze beim Zusammenbau die Klappe lose auf und richte sie bündig in den Ausschnitt im äußeren Gehäuse des iMac aus. Ziehe erst dann die Schrauben fest.

    In order for the logic board to come out cleanly, one should remove the RAM at the end of this step.

    kevmacmills -

    Definitely! The author should make this as a step in the description (because not everyone reads Comments)

    finnik2d -

    Just did this procedure and the RAM must absolutely come out for the logic board to come free later.

    matt -

  2. S6gQ2HIHlQuHu5Sy
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    • Ziehe den Stecker, bevor du anfängst. Lege den iMac auf eine weiche Oberfläche, so wie gezeigt.

    • Befestige einen Saugnapf in jeder der oberen Ecken der Scheibe.

    • Um die Saugnäpfe, die wir verkaufen, anzubringen, musst du erst den Saugnapf mit dem beweglichen Griff parallel zur Scheibe aufsetzen. Halte den Saugnapf gegen die Scheibe und klappe den Griff hoch, bis er parallel mit dem anderen ist.

    • Wenn der Saugnapf sich nicht festsaugt, dann versuche die Scheibe und den Saugnapf mit einem milden Reinigungsmittel zu säubern.

    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton -

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov -

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival -

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso -

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale -

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna -

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx -

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks -

    I did it several times with one suction cup at the end of a kitchen brush. Once with the blade of a swiss army knive, also ok. And i’m pretty sure it works with fingernails too

    Tai -

    Fingernails are all you need to free the glass from its magnetic hold. If you don’t have them, slip something thin and plastic, like a spudger, at a top corner.

    Max Powers -

    Minha dúvida é a seguinte: após o técnico trocar o HD do meu iMac de 21,5 polegadas, a câmera parou de funcionar. Seria por causa da troca do HD? Tem solução?

    Claudio -

    Creio que o cabo da camera não foi plugado ou deu mau contato… ou até danificado.

    glecyo@gmail.com

    glecyo medeiros -

    I can’t get my glass to budge. I’m replacing a cracked one and now it’s about to shatter.

    jamboxmitchell -

    I know that I'm replying really late but I advise to use clear tape over any cracks so the cracks don't get bigger

    Jace Holmes -

    Check for chips in the glass BEFORE you do this step. If there is a chip when you pull up with the suction cups you will wind up with a jagged mess. If you do have a chip I would advise covering the screen near the chip with clear tape of some kind before lifting out. Mine shattered right at the chip and the resulting glass dust cloud got all over. My solution was buying a new glass screen.

    BCam -

  3. dEfYFtAGakgNBgPI
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    • Hebe die Scheibe vorsichtig senkrecht zum LCD an, gerade soweit um die Metallstifte, die oben an der Unterseite der Scheibe angebracht sind zu befreien.

    • Ziehe die Scheibe von der Unterkante des iMac weg und lege sie sorgfältig zur Seite.

    • Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, die Innenseite der Scheibe und das LCD peinlich genau zu reinigen. Jeglicher Staub und Fingerabdrücke werden sichtbar, sobald die Maschine eingeschaltet ist.

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs -

    Microfiber Cloth

    Leonardo Fournier -

    Try your best not touch it in the first place

    Brian -

    Wearing Nitrile or regular surgical gloves helps prevent finger prints if you accidentally touch the glass.

    amiller770 -

  4. YMHZpR1auTJNWgmP
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    • Drehe die acht 8 mm T10 Torx Schrauben heraus, die das Display am Gehäuse befestigen.

    • Die beiden letzten Bilder sind Detailaufnahmen jeder Seite des Displays.

    On reassembly, it is REALLY HARD to align those screws, because of the field of the strong magnets that hold the glass cover on. I'm sure there's a trick to it, but I'd love to know what it is for future reference.

    Peter Shenkin -

    I used needlenose pliers and the T10 to align the screw into the hole. Otherwise the screw keeps jumping to the magnet. And patience with this NON-CAPTIVE screw design (c’mon Apple, even **I** came up with that, and I’m an idiot!)

    finnik2d -

    A short piece of small gauge vinyl tubing that fits tightly over the head of the T-10 driver leaving an 8th of an inch or so in which to insert the screw to engage the head will hold the screw long enough to keep it away from the magnet and get it going in the hole.

    Paul Boudreau -

    I use non magnetic SS curved tip tweezers together with a magnetized #10 torx bit both to remove and reinstall the screws. You can magnetize and demagnetize the bit using the strong magnets on the LCD frame. Don't worry too much during removal, you can recover the screw. But loath the moment you drop the last screw during reassembly. For that reason, reinstall the screws near the magnets and hardest to get to first.

    Michael Ben-Yehuda -

  5. XwKyIpMtsVUGuQLq

    • Hebe die Oberkante des Displays leicht aus dem äußeren Gehäuse.

    • Hebe es nicht zu weit hoch. Mehrere Kabel verbinden das Display noch mit dem Logic Board.

    When putting the display back I have resistance from the foam elements (on the top end where the iSight is) and have to press down really hard. Is that okay?

    gm.konsortium -

    Well, stupid me put the 3.5" to 2.5" cage the wrong side up. ;)

    gm.konsortium -

    Standing the imac upright on its stand really helps this step! Laying it falt makes getting under the panel a real hassle.

    finnik2d -

  6. ehgywlqT1YC6Q2ey
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    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel für die Vertikalsynchronisierung aus seinem Sockel auf der LED Treiberplatine nahe der oberen linken Ecke des iMac.

    • Das Ende dieses Flachbandkabels ähnelt einem ZIF Kabel, der Sockel hat aber keine Feststellklappe. Ziehe das Kabel einfach aus dem Sockel in Richtung des optischen Laufwerks, um es von der LED Treiberplatine zu trennen.

    The vertical sync cable was snug initially and now is loose. I checked and the cable is intact. Has anyone had experience with making it fit better?

    Rajan -

    Scotch tape on the upper side and sliding this in helped to secure the cable.

    Rajan -

    Reassembly of this part was the closest I came to disaster on this project. I tried inserting the connector a few times without success, and when I looked it it the leads, which are fragile, were all mangled. I smoothed them out by hand as best I could and and reinserted, very carefully this time. The trick is that the tip of the connector should be pointed somewhat upwards when reconnecting.

    I was pretty sure that when I was done, I would reboot but have no display; but fortunately, everything worked.

    Peter Shenkin -

    Hi, I still have a question. What is the "Job" of the vertical sync ribbon cable. Thanks

    Lutz Blum -

    So let’s say someone wanted to suck some of the dust off the back of the display before reassembly. Let’s just say that. Someone would likely suck this forsaken cable up into the vacuum tube then, wouldn’t they? They might. And if it were to oscillate in a rushing torrent of air, it might get munged? It might.

    Here’s how you overcome such a disaster:

    1) cut the end fresh, as close to the end as you can while cutting off any frayed end.

    2) abrade the end gently, repeatedly, along the connector wire axis. I used emory paper. Your goal is to expose the copper conductors in the last 1/4” of the fragile evil wire.

    3) Tape a small stiff cardstock to the back of the end of the connector. This is essential to press the connector wires into the connector.

    4) Gently insert, taking special caution to not peel the copper off of the connector.

    5) Tape that connector down deftly, without letting it move a millimeter and securing it for all time.

    sydnius -

    I just leave it connected. After disconnecting the other cables, there is enough slack to lay the display on its backside if you’re working on a flat surface.

    Duane Johnson -

    I have replaced the hdd in this model about 8-10 times - I have never had to disconnect any cables other than the sata and temp sensor cables on the hdd. I just prop the lcd up with an egg carton (or something about 3 inches high that is soft and light) and access the hdd that way. The only thing I ever have trouble with are is putting the LCD screws back in around the magnets - but I have pretty much perfected that with a sissor/ tweezer tool.

    Suzanne Levy -

    Could you put up some photos of this procedure - egg carton etc…

    Peter Barnett -

    Any ideas where to replace this cable?

    Danny Shaw -

    I followed Suzanne’s comment and also did not disconnect this cable (vertical sync ribbon cable) to avoid damage. I pivoted the screen about 110 degrees after the other cables where detached. On a flat surface, this is easily done and the cable is not tight. Image of my angle if I can drop a link. and cable in this position not in tension.

    investments kkl -

    Where can I buy the replacement for this vertical sync replacement cable?

    Neil Gonsalves -

  7. kVAlnw4MHFlBRuuO
    kVAlnw4MHFlBRuuO
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    • Kippe das Display weit genug aus aus dem äußeren Gehäuse, um das Kabel für die LED-Rückbeleuchtung von der LED-Treiberplatine zu trennen.

    • Löse das Kabel für die LED Rückbeleuchtung, indem du den Sicherungsmechanismus drückst, während du den Verbinder aus dem Sockel (in Richtung Unterkante des iMac).

    I found it easier to very slightly lift the front edge of the black connector with a small spudger, then gently pulling away towards the bottom of the iMac. Pressing felt a little crude and didn’t work for me.

    Anthony C Carnell -

  8. dkAc2m5fqepILacA

    • Drücke die beiden Hebel am Verbinder des Display-Datenkabels zusammen, um sie vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board auszurasten.

    • Ziehe das Display-Datenkabel aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    • Sei beim Abtrennen und Wiederanschließen dieses Kabels sehr vorsichtig, es kann leicht beschädigt werden.

    in Step 7, my connector (new 21.5 iMac - Dec 2010) was not attached that way and just came of easily.

    erin -

    Aperte as duas exibição do conector do cabo de dados braços juntos para desbloqueá-lo de seu soquete na placa lógica.

    Darlan Perira da Silva -

    I accidently broke the data cable socket on step 7. Any advice on what i should do?

    Sam Tang -

    I feel pretty silly. I spent wayyyy too long trying to get these cables disconnected. Happy I found this guide; hopefully, I won't struggle with such simple things since you provide pretty good details! Thanks.

    J.w. -

    Pas beaucoup de place pour déconnecter ce cable ! En essayant d'ouvrir trop l'écran pour passer mes "grosses mains" j'ai cossé le connecteur : je suis dans le caca :-( (et pourtant j'en fait des démontages !) Alors ATTENTION !!!

    divers -

    Il vaut mieux déconnecter la partie du côté écran en premier (sous l'autocollant noir)

    divers -

    Je suis d’accord. C’est plus facile. Merci mon ami

    Anthony C Carnell -

    Translation: It is better to disconnect the screen side first (under the black sticker)

    Michael Seiler -

  9. YSqOvFQsr5cCblIC

    • Löse den Verbinder des LCD Thermosensorkabels aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Wenn später nach dem Zusammenbau der Ventilator immer mit voller Drehzahl läuft, musst du diese Verbindung oder den Thermosensor an der Festplatte überprüfen.

    This is important regarding the fan running full speed

    http://blog.macsales.com/19617-diagnosin...

    tobykirkland -

    Is there a way to test the power supply to see if it's dead?

    professorminh -

    Achtung! Dieser Stecker kann sehr fest sitzen, hier hilft ein guter Fingernagel um den Stecker abwechselnd rechts und links zu Hebeln

    bluesoundsmusic -

    English translation of bluesoundsmusic comment: “Caution! This plug can be very tight, here a good fingernail helps to lever the plug alternately right and left”

    investments kkl -

  10. gsMSLVOXLbURAVOX

    • Ziehe sorgfältig das Display zum oberen Rand des iMac und hebe es aus dem Gehäuse. Achte darauf, dass sich dabei keine Kabel verfangen.

  11. TqN6beuItua2My2l

    • Entferne folgende vier Torx T10 Schrauben, welche das Netzteil am äußeren Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Zwei 22,2 mm Schrauben mit Feingewinde

    • Eine 25 mm Schraube mit Grobgewinde

    • Eine 9 mm Schraube mit Grobgewinde

    • Die nächsten paar Schritte bringen deine Hände in die Nähe der freien Oberfläche an der Platine des Netzteils. Berühre nicht die freie Oberfläche der Netzteilplatine, du könntest einen Stromschlag von den vielen großen Kondensatoren auf der Platine bekommen.

    Watch orientation of iMac in relation to this picture: if the base is AWAY from you, the screw positions are reversed in this picture. Also use the black power cable for position reference.

    finnik2d -

    fuuuuuuuck shiiiittt dammn that mf hurt like !&&* fucckken shocker here guys this macpos WILL KILL your ass be &&^&^$^ aware

    Jeff Robison -

    I installed the power supply and nothing happened when I pushed the power on button, has this happened to someone else or should I also replace the power cable?

    Jose Valdez Jr. -

    Okay, is the side with the soldier joints or the side with the capaciters the “face?”

    Also, you need to destroy that little hook that keeps the big connector on unless you have three strong little hands. Don’t worry, it’s not going to fall off, you can still cut yourself trying to wiggle that thing off. Especially when you are holding the board by the edges to avoid the “face.”

    Gladephone -

    I've taken out the logic board on a late 2009 iMac twice in the last two years, and in neither case did I need to remove the power supply. You can do the rest of the steps without removing the power supply, so I would suggest just making things simpler and leaving it in.

    Phil McInnis -

  12. 2eTCyI4NC2FJNpjG

    • Hebe das Netzteil vorsichtig aus dem äußeren Gehäuse und drehe es so, dass du den Kabelverschluss so siehst, wie im Bild gezeigt. Denke daran, dass das Gleichstromausgangskabel immer noch angeschlossen ist.

    • Löse das Gleichstromeingangskabel, indem du den Sicherungsmechanismus am Stecker eindrückst und gleichzeitig vom Sockel auf dem Netzteil wegziehst.

    • Wenn die Sicherung erst einmal gelöst ist, kannst du den Stecker ganz vom Netzteil wegziehen.

    I found my DC-In cable VERY difficult to detach. I depressed the locking mechanism, but still needed to use my iFixit Jimmy to carefully, gently, slowly work the cable connector (male) loose and away from the power supply (female).

    Bryan Jensen -

  13. gWWOWAstbIxxaqeY

    • Löse den Stecker der Wechselspannung. Drücke dazu erst den Sicherungsmechanismus am Stecker ein und ziehe ihn vom Sockel ab.

    • Entferne das Netzteil aus dem äußeren Gehäuse.

    This was not easy to disconnect with one hand holding the power supply (being careful while holding just to be cautious against any possible electrical discharge). Note that the connector is not on power supply side but on AC-In cable side. Couldn't quite see well enough from photo shown, but hold on the AC-In side of cable connector (depressing the locking mechanism of the male side) and pull away from the Power Supply (female side) cable.

    Bryan Jensen -

    i’ve gotten away with not removing the PSU at all when removing the motherboard. havent had any issues

    Akeem Scrubb -

  14. 25AvWIgV2isVaF3e

    • Ziehe den Verbinder des Thermosensors gerade aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board

    While you’re here, disconnect that SD reader cable and don’t forget to plug it back in on your way back through: it’s not mentioned elsewhere in this guide.

    Corvallis Computer -

    For me this cable was by the hard drive with a grey and a black wire labeled “ODD_TEMP”

    Bryan Remely -

  15. BPLCUgtFNeBxrXYO

    • Entferne die vier 9 mm T10 Torx Schrauben, die das optische Laufwerk am äußeren Gehäuse befestigen.

  16. TPdDZyiNlu4KGxCT

    • Hebe die innere Kante des Laufwerks hoch und bewege seinen Verbinder aus dem Rahmen am Logic Board.

    • Ziehe das Laufwerk vorsichtig aus den Haltestiften am Rand des äußeren Gehäuses und schaffe so Platz, um das Kabel am optischen Laufwerk lösen zu können.

  17. wBrYJTWfiLaHLUqs

    • Löse das Kabel zum optischen Laufwerk mit Hilfe des flachen Ende des Spudgers.

    Be sure this cable doesn’t get stuck under the logic board during reassembly. Mine was under it, I was able to get it out but connecting it to the SuperDrive required a bit of force because my cable is so short.

    Javier Indesteege -

  18. GYXKEHUbiUKLMAFM

    • Entferne die einzelne 13 mm Torx T10 Schraube, welche den Lüfter des optischen Laufwerks am äußeren Gehäuse befestigt.

  19. hkVJCclHIcNGA6GT

    • Ziehe den Lüfter des optischen Laufwerks weg von den Stiften am äußeren Gehäuse.

    Should read optical drive “fan” off the pins……

    Gordon Farley -

  20. h6acDrX3uFOfuXm6

    • Ziehe den Stecker des Lüfters des optischen Laufwerks aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Entferne den Lüfter des optischen Laufwerks vom iMac.

  21. UbsCG2PdeBXMNjPB

    • Ziehe die Stecker von rechtem und linkem Lautsprecher in Richtung der rechten Seite des iMac und löse sie so vom Logic Board.

    Use a RED marker to tag the RIGHT speaker cable since both speaker cables look identical

    finnik2d -

    I added a small piece of tape to one of the cables and took a picture to remember where each of them go

    Javier Indesteege -

  22. jommtOqaZbitcLRC

    • Löse das Kabel zur Audiobuchse, indem du seinen Stecker in Richtung der rechten Seite des iMac ziehst.

    Use your fingernails to wiggle out the black tabs at the connector; DON'T use the cable itself to remove from the logic board

    finnik2d -

  23. dspwV1NbjOOU263q

    • Löse das AirPort-Kabel, indem du seinen Stecker aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board ziehst.

    • Ziehe den Stecker senkrecht zur Oberfläche der Platine.

    Lift this one directly up towards your cieling. I almost snagged this one off like it was the other cables.

    Jonathan Diress -

  24. BTN4s5vgmJIpIK3p

    • Löse die folgenden Kabel, indem du ihre Stecker zur Oberkante des iMac hin ziehst:

    • Kamerakabel

    • Thermosensor der Festplatte

    • Lüfter der Festplatte

    • Mikrofon

    • Löse folgende Kabel. indem du ihre Stecker zum rechten Rand des iMac hin ziehst:

    • Umgebungstemperatursensor

    • Bluetoothkabel

    You might need a spudger to pull the wires out in order to pull ambient temperature sensor and Bluetooth cable out. For mine, the cables were tucked in so it was really difficult just pull out the wires.

    Jonathan Diress -

    The Bluetooth cable was refusing to disconnect. The cable goes under the logic board pulling the connector down, especially on my iMac it was very tight. What ultimately helped was sliding the flat end of the iFixit Halberd Spudger under the connector, lifting it slightly up. Then I was able to pull it out of the socket.

    Javier Indesteege -

  25. 3Wv1MjMMleTo5E3t

    • Löse die Kabel zum CPU-Lüfter und zum Einschaltknopf, indem du ihre Stecker zum linken Rand des iMacs hin ziehst.

    Use tape to hold the connectors out of the way.

    Gladephone -

  26. PYMHWYFmV1wadZwB
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    • Wenn vorhanden, musst du das Stückchen Klebeband, welches den Stecker des Infrarotsensors bedeckt, ablösen.

    • Löse den Infrarotsensor, indem du seinen Verbinder zur Oberkante des iMac hin ziehst.

  27. BAhsGOtGJgZXk1MP

    • Hebe die Infrarotsensoreinheit mit den Fingern gerade aus dem äußeren Gehäuse heraus.

  28. yW45Z2KJsbErnc5N

    • Das Logic Board ist mit sechs Torx T10 Schrauben am äußeren Gehäuse befestigt. Drehe sie heraus:

    • Drei 25 mm Schrauben

    • Zwei 21,5 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 7 mm Schraube

    These photos do not show this iMac's optional configuration that contains a discreet GPU. If a GPU card is present there is another Torx screw that must be removed that holds an additional heat sink to the upper right corner of the enclosure. Note that in this configuration, the optical drive fan has a different configuration with a plastic separator that points towards the top of the iMac. This looks to serve as channel for airflow and is noteworthy because it makes the optical drive's SATA connector much more difficult to remove and quite difficult (for me anyway) to reassemble as it is a very tight fit!

    kevmacmills -

    I made it to this step, then carefully removed dust from the back part, not touching any components, then used compressed air to get dust out since getting the whole logic board was a challenge, assembled and when I turn it on it loads normally, white screen with the logo, but then the screen goes black, and then the fans start running at the actual speed (I used SMC fan control) I had before I unplugged it to clean it, what could have happened? thank you =(

    Ricardo -

    I had the additional GPU card, as mentioned by kevmacmills above, and needed to remove two Torx screws, one short one at the plastic separator, and one 7mm approx at the heatsink in the top right of the enclosure.

    Jurgen -

  29. qZ1WJQueSSmR6N6w
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    • Entferne die Kunststoffführungen an der Seite der LED-Treiberplatine und der Festplatte, indem du sie weg vom äußeren Gehäuse ziehst.

  30. w3TgGHkSa24xprNX

    • Entferne vorsichtig das Aluminiumband, welches den Kühlkörper der GPU am äußeren Gehäuse befestigt.

    • Es ist nicht nötig, das Aluminiumband ganz vom Kühlkörper der GPU abzulösen.

    OMG!

    I cannot believe it!

    Only by attaching one side of the golden GPU sionk with aluminum tape on the case, is it possible to well handle the thermal dissipation from the GPU

    bruce ayng -

    Was anyone able to install the Q9550S cpu?

    jimmakosp -

    Whoops, definitely tears easily. I tore it at two spots. At reassembly I was able to get it to adhere to the case nonetheless by rubbing along the aluminium tape using my finger nail.

    Javier Indesteege -

  31. ut1TZRrW1WB2cIHn

    • In den folgenden Schritten wirst du das Logic Board aus dem äußeren Gehäuse herausholen. Denke dabei an die vielen Kabel, mit denen es immer noch mit dem äußeren Gehäuse verbunden ist.

    • Achte darauf, dass das Logic Board aus dem Haltestift am unteren Lüfter des optischen Laufwerks herauskommt, bevor du es hochhebst. Der Stift kann leicht abbrechen.

    Be sure you have REMOVED YOUR RAM MEMORY before trying to wiggle out the logic board!

    finnik2d -

    Thank you! I don’t understand why it’s not mentioned in the guide

    Javier Indesteege -

  32. JHbvLuSGacrGBkWe

    • Ziehe das Logic Board etwas weg vom äußeren Gehäuse.

    • Drehe das Board vor und zurück, während du es weg vom äußeren Gehäuse hältst. Hebe es dann hoch um es vom äußeren Gehäuse zu befreien.

    If you're having trouble getting the logic board to come free, you probably need to remove the RAM. That was keeping it from coming free in my case.

    matt -

    My logic board has an extra metal attachment extending to fan grills, which this photo does not show. Help needed. Is there any way I can up load a photo of my logic board?

    winner43 -

    During reassembly make sure all I/O connectors are above the logic board and not under it! I also connected three USB drives to align the logic board.

    Javier Indesteege -

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    • Jetzt ist die Unterkante des Boards frei vom äußeren Gehäuse. Drehe das Logic Board zu dir, so dass die Unterseite sichtbar wird.

    • Der nachfolgend beschriebene Stecker sitzt oft in seinem Sockel fest. Wenn das der Fall ist, dann musst du einen Metallspudger in den Spalt zwischen Stecker und Sockel einsetzen. Verdrehe dann den Spudger, um die beiden Teile zu trennen.

    • Ziehe vorsichtig den Stecker vom optischen Laufwerkweg von seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Ziehe den Stecker senkrecht zur Oberfläche des Logic Board.

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    • Löse das Eingangskabel des Gleichstroms vom Logic Board, indem du gleichzeitig den Sicherungshebel am Stecker eindrückst und den Stecker weg vom Sockel ziehst.

    • Entferne das Logic Board vom äußeren Gehäuse.

    • Achte während des Einbaus auf die korrekte Position des I/O Panels. Wenn das Board verbaut ist, ist es vor der Verschraubung hilfreich, es mit dem einstecken eines USB Stick oder Thunderbolt Kabels in die richtige Position zu bringen.

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    • Ziehe den Stecker des Thermosensors am Kühlkörper mit einer Pinzette gerade aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

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    • Enferne, falls noch vorhanden, den Aufkleber mit "Warranty void if removed" (d.h. Garantie entfällt, falls entfernt), welcher eine Schraube auf jeder Seite des Kühlkörpers bedeckt.

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    • Entferne folgende sechs Torx Schrauben, welche den Kühlkörper auf dem Logic Board befestigen:

    • Fünf 6,5 mm T8 Schrauben

    • Eine 7 mm T10 Schraube

    • Möglicherweise musst du den Sockel auf einer Seite der Platine mit einem Kreuzschlitzschrauber festhalten, während du auf der anderen Seite die Torx-Schraube aufdrehst.

  38. ojw4QrsMJlU2QCtf

    • Hebe die Halterung des Kühlkörpers weg vom Logic Board.

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    • Hebe das Logic Board vorsichtig weg vom Kühlkörper.

    • Wenn die beiden Teile anscheinend noch zusammenkleben, dann hebele sie vorsichtig mit einem Spudger auseinander. Achte dabei darauf, dass du keine SMD-Bauteile auf dem Logic Board beschädigst.

    • Beim Zusammenbau musst du eine neue Schicht Wärmeleitpaste auftragen, bevor du den Kühlkörper aufsetzen kannst. Unsere Anleitung für Wärmeleitpaste macht das einfach.

  40. fxiyOBERbfXHjRim
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    • Ziehe vorsichtig den Sicherungshebel der CPU weg vom CPU Sockel.

    • Drehe den Sicherungshebel zur Mitte des Logic Boards hin.

  41. NfLkJYqgDVL3GUJS

    • Drehe die Halteklammer der CPU von der CPU weg.

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    • Hebe die CPU gerade aus ihrem Sockel heraus.

    • Achte darauf, dass die neue CPU richtig ausgerichtet ist und gut sitzt, bevor du die Halteklammer wieder zurückklappst.

    • Bringe wieder eine neue Schicht Wärmeleitpaste auf, bevor du den Kühlkörper aufsetzst. Unsere Anleitung für Wärmeleitpaste macht das leicht.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Andrew Bookholt

578335 Reputation

19 Kommentare

Hello I fixit.!

Hello a lot of congrats! for your site! is very very helpfully for Mac Users

so. i have a question please if you want to help me.!

i have an i mac 21,5 late2009

3,06ghz intel core 2 duo

i have an idea to change the processor to. intel core i5 3,3 Ghz core

can be compatible . on main board .

thanks a lot for your time

ioannis ioannis -

These 21.5" (and 27") iMacs came with only either Core 2 Duo E7600 (3.06Ghz, 2 core, 65W TDP, LGA 775) or Core 2 Duo E8600 (3.33GHz, 2 core, 65W TDP, LGA 775), which are incompatible with any Core i5 as there are no Core i5's that were available on the LGA 775 socket these systems.

You might be able to upgrade to a Core 2 Quad Q9505S or Q9550S (2.83GHz, 4 core, 65W TDP LGA 775) which would provide 2 extra cores than the E7600/E8600 and work in the same socket but drop the max clocks to stay at the same 65W TDP power limit.

Technous285 -

I installed a Q6700 Core 2 Quad into my late 2009 Core 2 Duo iMac.

Sadly it is not working, only recognize 2 Cores instead 4 under Windows 7.

Booting in the lates Mac OS, it gives up Kernel panic.

Any advise?

Tim -

The Core 2 Quad Q6700 is a 105W TDP processor and the 21.5" & 27" iMacs running the Core 2 Duo E7600/E8600 only support 65W TDP LGA 775 Core 2 processors. If you wish to upgrade from the Core 2 Duo E7600/E8600 to a Core 2 Quad in these systems; I would recommend wither the Q9505S or Q9550S - specifically the "S" on there as those are the 65W TDP versions of the 105W TDP Q9505 and Q9550.

Windows is only allowing 2 of the 4 cores of that Q6700 to run to fit within the TDP of the system (particularly by regulating how much power the CPU can draw), and MacOS is panicking as it doesn't know how to handle the 105W the Q6700 is asking for on a 65W system.

Technous285 -

Hello,

I'd like to upgrade the Core 2 Duo 3.06 CPU of my iMac 10,1 21.5". I already done the same operation in a white Core Duo iMac, being able to install the unsupported OS X 10.7. I'd like to do the same on the 10,1 but what CPU can I install? It seems that the i3, i5 or i7 are phisically different, am I right? And the user Tim report in being unable to make it work with a Core 2 Quad. So... what are the possibilities? Thanks!

Francesco Vacca -

hello, im planing to upgrade to i7 or i5 S type cpu with only 65w tdp(same tdp as my core 2 duo) , so im thinking, if the logic board supports those, and will i be able to even start up my mac...just want to see more cores in my computer...

reinis -

The 21.5" & 27" iMac's running Core 2 Duo E7600/E8600 are only compatible with other 65W TDP Core 2 processors such as the Core 2 Quad Q9505S and Q9550S on Socket LGA 775, as there have been no official LGA 775 Core i3/i5/i7 processors from Intel.

Technous285 -

Great guide, managed to replace my 3,06ghz core 2 duo by an core 2 duo E8600 3,3 Ghz.

I also replaced the HD by a SSD during this upgrade and everything went very well.

jmdick -

dear ifitxit guys.. i have a 27" imac 306 dual. has anyone one tried to your knowledge using the q9550s quad core with any success. this could be an "ultimate" upgrade bringing it very close in speed to the i7s. seeing how th q9550s is running around 100 dollars on ebay it could make a very affordable upgrade. please let us know if you have any info on this. thanks

Michael Smith -

It is impossible to replace a socket 775 cpu with an i3 , i5, i7 series , regardless the generation . They fit into a completely different socket . So , if you are lucky , maybe a Q6600 will work , as it's socket 775 core 2 quad cpu , 1066 mhz . Or a faster core 2 duo . Nothing else .

st3lly -

Core 2 Quad Q6600 and other non-S Core 2 Quad processors are non-viable upgrade options for the 21.5" & 27" iMacs Core 2 Duo E7600/E8600, as the systems are built for 65W TDP LGA 775 processors, and the only 65W TDP Core 2 Quad processors are the Q8200S (2.33GHz), Q8400S /Q9400S (2.66GHz) and Q9505S/9550S (2.83GHz).

Technous285 -

On reassembly, before you bolt down the logic board, make sure all the cables that plug into it are routed correctly. Better yet—plug them. As well, make sure the HDD/SSD’s SATA cable is routed correctly or else the mainboard won’t sit flush, which will be noticeable when you try to remount the optical drive/gpu fan.

Max Powers -

Very straightforward and well documented guide. I have to say that Apple computers are very cumbersome to handle (my expertise are high end PC computers). My wife likes IMacs, so I have to take care of her A1311. Hats off to a very good guide.

I have a question about the possibility of repairing the video card. Can it be done or is it surface mounted. I ask because the video on the IMac is scrambled and I do not know how to fix it……

Thanks

Hermann Meyer -

Is it the 9400 nvidia onboard or the extra ATI4670 video card?

Alex Vou -

Nice processus

Med Gritli -

Thanks for this tutorial, I did remplace the 3,06 GHz Core 2 Duo with a 3,33 Core 2 Duo on mid 2020. At my first attempt, the CPU wasn't recognized by the system, (I still don't know why, the iMac was up to date) so I decided to put back the old CPU. A couple of month later, I decided to do a second try, and then, TADA, it’s working!! One of the advantage of this CPU is that it support an higher Ram frequency from 1066 MHz to 1333MHz (CPU speed bus is quicker on the 3,33GHz core 2 Duo).

Pierre-Alexandre Porchet -

hello Pierre-Alexandre Porchet, how good you wrote this message, because the same thing happened to me. a "panic_cpu" appears, at the beginning the imac started normal, but it got stuck, then it did about 10 reboots with the indicated error. Now I think about going back and casting the old "3.06MHz" cpu. My question is the following, what do you think, did it make a difference on the second try, was it a different connection, or was it just a matter of imac software logs?

Jorge Luengo Loayza -

Boa tarde Amigo! qual a sugestão para atualizar Imac ano 2009 core 2 duo 3.06Ghz para o 3.33 Ghz E8600??

como posso fazer esse processo ?

kilha89 -

Buy the E8600 on eBay, AliExpress or Jawa, follow the guide to gain access to the iMac's CPU, replace it, apply new thermal compound, and then reassemble the system.

It might take a few reboot cycles to retrain the system to accept the E8600 as other users have found.

Technous285 -