iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2308 Festplatte austauschen

Geschrieben von: Andrew Bookholt
  • Kommentare: 134
iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2308 Festplatte austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

26

Zeitaufwand

40 Minuten - 1 Stunde

Einleitung

Ersetze die Festplatte an deinem iMac Intel 21,5".

Bei dieser Reparatur wird in einigen Schritten beschrieben, wie du die Festplatte durch eine SSD aufrüsten kannst. Insbesondere wird gezeigt, wie der Temperatursensor der SSD installiert wird, so dass der Lüfter des iMac mit der richtigen Drehzahl arbeitet.

Bevor du am iMac arbeitest: Ziehe den Netzstecker und drücke den Einschaltknopf mindestens 10 sec lang, um die Kondensatoren des Netzteils zu entladen.

Sei sehr vorsichtig und berühre keine Anschlüsse der Kondensatoren und auch keine der offenliegenden Lötstellen auf der Rückseite der Netzplatine.

  1. S6gQ2HIHlQuHu5Sy
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    • Ziehe den Stecker, bevor du anfängst. Lege den iMac auf eine weiche Oberfläche, so wie gezeigt.

    • Befestige einen Saugnapf in jeder der oberen Ecken der Scheibe.

    • Um die Saugnäpfe, die wir verkaufen, anzubringen, musst du erst den Saugnapf mit dem beweglichen Griff parallel zur Scheibe aufsetzen. Halte den Saugnapf gegen die Scheibe und klappe den Griff hoch, bis er parallel mit dem anderen ist.

    • Wenn der Saugnapf sich nicht festsaugt, dann versuche die Scheibe und den Saugnapf mit einem milden Reinigungsmittel zu säubern.

    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton -

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov -

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival -

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso -

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale -

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna -

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx -

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks -

    I did it several times with one suction cup at the end of a kitchen brush. Once with the blade of a swiss army knive, also ok. And i’m pretty sure it works with fingernails too

    Tai -

    Fingernails are all you need to free the glass from its magnetic hold. If you don’t have them, slip something thin and plastic, like a spudger, at a top corner.

    Max Powers -

    Minha dúvida é a seguinte: após o técnico trocar o HD do meu iMac de 21,5 polegadas, a câmera parou de funcionar. Seria por causa da troca do HD? Tem solução?

    Claudio -

    Creio que o cabo da camera não foi plugado ou deu mau contato… ou até danificado.

    glecyo@gmail.com

    glecyo medeiros -

    I can’t get my glass to budge. I’m replacing a cracked one and now it’s about to shatter.

    jamboxmitchell -

    I know that I'm replying really late but I advise to use clear tape over any cracks so the cracks don't get bigger

    Jace Holmes -

    Check for chips in the glass BEFORE you do this step. If there is a chip when you pull up with the suction cups you will wind up with a jagged mess. If you do have a chip I would advise covering the screen near the chip with clear tape of some kind before lifting out. Mine shattered right at the chip and the resulting glass dust cloud got all over. My solution was buying a new glass screen.

    BCam -

  2. dEfYFtAGakgNBgPI
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    • Hebe die Scheibe vorsichtig senkrecht zum LCD an, gerade soweit um die Metallstifte, die oben an der Unterseite der Scheibe angebracht sind zu befreien.

    • Ziehe die Scheibe von der Unterkante des iMac weg und lege sie sorgfältig zur Seite.

    • Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, die Innenseite der Scheibe und das LCD peinlich genau zu reinigen. Jeglicher Staub und Fingerabdrücke werden sichtbar, sobald die Maschine eingeschaltet ist.

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs -

    Microfiber Cloth

    Leonardo Fournier -

    Try your best not touch it in the first place

    Brian -

    Wearing Nitrile or regular surgical gloves helps prevent finger prints if you accidentally touch the glass.

    amiller770 -

  3. YMHZpR1auTJNWgmP
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    • Drehe die acht 8 mm T10 Torx Schrauben heraus, die das Display am Gehäuse befestigen.

    • Die beiden letzten Bilder sind Detailaufnahmen jeder Seite des Displays.

    On reassembly, it is REALLY HARD to align those screws, because of the field of the strong magnets that hold the glass cover on. I'm sure there's a trick to it, but I'd love to know what it is for future reference.

    Peter Shenkin -

    I used needlenose pliers and the T10 to align the screw into the hole. Otherwise the screw keeps jumping to the magnet. And patience with this NON-CAPTIVE screw design (c’mon Apple, even **I** came up with that, and I’m an idiot!)

    finnik2d -

    A short piece of small gauge vinyl tubing that fits tightly over the head of the T-10 driver leaving an 8th of an inch or so in which to insert the screw to engage the head will hold the screw long enough to keep it away from the magnet and get it going in the hole.

    Paul Boudreau -

    I use non magnetic SS curved tip tweezers together with a magnetized #10 torx bit both to remove and reinstall the screws. You can magnetize and demagnetize the bit using the strong magnets on the LCD frame. Don't worry too much during removal, you can recover the screw. But loath the moment you drop the last screw during reassembly. For that reason, reinstall the screws near the magnets and hardest to get to first.

    Michael Ben-Yehuda -

  4. XwKyIpMtsVUGuQLq

    • Hebe die Oberkante des Displays leicht aus dem äußeren Gehäuse.

    • Hebe es nicht zu weit hoch. Mehrere Kabel verbinden das Display noch mit dem Logic Board.

    When putting the display back I have resistance from the foam elements (on the top end where the iSight is) and have to press down really hard. Is that okay?

    gm.konsortium -

    Well, stupid me put the 3.5" to 2.5" cage the wrong side up. ;)

    gm.konsortium -

    Standing the imac upright on its stand really helps this step! Laying it falt makes getting under the panel a real hassle.

    finnik2d -

  5. ehgywlqT1YC6Q2ey
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    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel für die Vertikalsynchronisierung aus seinem Sockel auf der LED Treiberplatine nahe der oberen linken Ecke des iMac.

    • Das Ende dieses Flachbandkabels ähnelt einem ZIF Kabel, der Sockel hat aber keine Feststellklappe. Ziehe das Kabel einfach aus dem Sockel in Richtung des optischen Laufwerks, um es von der LED Treiberplatine zu trennen.

    The vertical sync cable was snug initially and now is loose. I checked and the cable is intact. Has anyone had experience with making it fit better?

    Rajan -

    Scotch tape on the upper side and sliding this in helped to secure the cable.

    Rajan -

    Reassembly of this part was the closest I came to disaster on this project. I tried inserting the connector a few times without success, and when I looked it it the leads, which are fragile, were all mangled. I smoothed them out by hand as best I could and and reinserted, very carefully this time. The trick is that the tip of the connector should be pointed somewhat upwards when reconnecting.

    I was pretty sure that when I was done, I would reboot but have no display; but fortunately, everything worked.

    Peter Shenkin -

    Hi, I still have a question. What is the "Job" of the vertical sync ribbon cable. Thanks

    Lutz Blum -

    So let’s say someone wanted to suck some of the dust off the back of the display before reassembly. Let’s just say that. Someone would likely suck this forsaken cable up into the vacuum tube then, wouldn’t they? They might. And if it were to oscillate in a rushing torrent of air, it might get munged? It might.

    Here’s how you overcome such a disaster:

    1) cut the end fresh, as close to the end as you can while cutting off any frayed end.

    2) abrade the end gently, repeatedly, along the connector wire axis. I used emory paper. Your goal is to expose the copper conductors in the last 1/4” of the fragile evil wire.

    3) Tape a small stiff cardstock to the back of the end of the connector. This is essential to press the connector wires into the connector.

    4) Gently insert, taking special caution to not peel the copper off of the connector.

    5) Tape that connector down deftly, without letting it move a millimeter and securing it for all time.

    sydnius -

    I just leave it connected. After disconnecting the other cables, there is enough slack to lay the display on its backside if you’re working on a flat surface.

    Duane Johnson -

    I have replaced the hdd in this model about 8-10 times - I have never had to disconnect any cables other than the sata and temp sensor cables on the hdd. I just prop the lcd up with an egg carton (or something about 3 inches high that is soft and light) and access the hdd that way. The only thing I ever have trouble with are is putting the LCD screws back in around the magnets - but I have pretty much perfected that with a sissor/ tweezer tool.

    Suzanne Levy -

    Could you put up some photos of this procedure - egg carton etc…

    Peter Barnett -

    Any ideas where to replace this cable?

    Danny Shaw -

    I followed Suzanne’s comment and also did not disconnect this cable (vertical sync ribbon cable) to avoid damage. I pivoted the screen about 110 degrees after the other cables where detached. On a flat surface, this is easily done and the cable is not tight. Image of my angle if I can drop a link. and cable in this position not in tension.

    investments kkl -

    Where can I buy the replacement for this vertical sync replacement cable?

    Neil Gonsalves -

  6. kVAlnw4MHFlBRuuO
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    • Kippe das Display weit genug aus aus dem äußeren Gehäuse, um das Kabel für die LED-Rückbeleuchtung von der LED-Treiberplatine zu trennen.

    • Löse das Kabel für die LED Rückbeleuchtung, indem du den Sicherungsmechanismus drückst, während du den Verbinder aus dem Sockel (in Richtung Unterkante des iMac).

    I found it easier to very slightly lift the front edge of the black connector with a small spudger, then gently pulling away towards the bottom of the iMac. Pressing felt a little crude and didn’t work for me.

    Anthony C Carnell -

  7. dkAc2m5fqepILacA

    • Drücke die beiden Hebel am Verbinder des Display-Datenkabels zusammen, um sie vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board auszurasten.

    • Ziehe das Display-Datenkabel aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    • Sei beim Abtrennen und Wiederanschließen dieses Kabels sehr vorsichtig, es kann leicht beschädigt werden.

    in Step 7, my connector (new 21.5 iMac - Dec 2010) was not attached that way and just came of easily.

    erin -

    Aperte as duas exibição do conector do cabo de dados braços juntos para desbloqueá-lo de seu soquete na placa lógica.

    Darlan Perira da Silva -

    I accidently broke the data cable socket on step 7. Any advice on what i should do?

    Sam Tang -

    I feel pretty silly. I spent wayyyy too long trying to get these cables disconnected. Happy I found this guide; hopefully, I won't struggle with such simple things since you provide pretty good details! Thanks.

    J.w. -

    Pas beaucoup de place pour déconnecter ce cable ! En essayant d'ouvrir trop l'écran pour passer mes "grosses mains" j'ai cossé le connecteur : je suis dans le caca :-( (et pourtant j'en fait des démontages !) Alors ATTENTION !!!

    divers -

    Il vaut mieux déconnecter la partie du côté écran en premier (sous l'autocollant noir)

    divers -

    Je suis d’accord. C’est plus facile. Merci mon ami

    Anthony C Carnell -

    Translation: It is better to disconnect the screen side first (under the black sticker)

    Michael Seiler -

  8. YSqOvFQsr5cCblIC

    • Löse den Verbinder des LCD Thermosensorkabels aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Wenn später nach dem Zusammenbau der Ventilator immer mit voller Drehzahl läuft, musst du diese Verbindung oder den Thermosensor an der Festplatte überprüfen.

    This is important regarding the fan running full speed

    http://blog.macsales.com/19617-diagnosin...

    tobykirkland -

    Is there a way to test the power supply to see if it's dead?

    professorminh -

    Achtung! Dieser Stecker kann sehr fest sitzen, hier hilft ein guter Fingernagel um den Stecker abwechselnd rechts und links zu Hebeln

    bluesoundsmusic -

    English translation of bluesoundsmusic comment: “Caution! This plug can be very tight, here a good fingernail helps to lever the plug alternately right and left”

    investments kkl -

  9. gsMSLVOXLbURAVOX

    • Ziehe sorgfältig das Display zum oberen Rand des iMac und hebe es aus dem Gehäuse. Achte darauf, dass sich dabei keine Kabel verfangen.

  10. NI4yJGhECJAGMWvv

    • Bevor du das Thermosensor-Kabel löst, merke dir die seine Ausrichtung. Es ist extrem wichtig dieses Kabel in der umgekehrten Ausrichtung im Vergleich zu aktuellen Ausrichtung zu montieren, sonst laufen die Ventilatoren immer auf voller Drehzahl.

    • Trenne den Thermosensor, indem du seinen Verbinder von der Seite der Festplatte abziehst.

    • Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf dass der Verbinder zum Thermosensor auf die Steckverbindung möglichst nahe am SATA Anschluss aufgesteckt wird. Wenn doch die Ventilatoren mit voller Drehzahl laufen drehe die Position des Verbinders um.

    I don't understand how to reverse the thermal connector. There's only one way to insert it; unless they mean to reverse the grey and black wires? Confused, but hoping I don't have any fan issues.

    Ben Dunkle -

    I had the same problem, i have the fan running at high speed, the connectors cannot be reversed. There is only one way to insert on either end.

    timzane -

    Apple used more than 1 brand of hard drive, so some temperature sensor connectors are different.

    Andy -

    I still don't understand the instruction to reverse the connector. A photo would be helpful. Does this mean to take the connector and turn it upside down from how it was originally connected? What if the socket for the connector will only allow it to be inserted in one manner? I've changed out my hard drive and the fan is on high all the time, so something is wrong, though I thought I had followed the instructions carefully.

    youcan -

    Did you previously have a Toshiba hard drive in your iMac?

    Scott Dingle -

    Didn't reverse. I changed a 500GB Seagate Barracuda to a 2TB Seagate Barracuda with no issues. It would have been helpful if this article had indicated the old and new drive.

    Robert -

    To do steps 10 and 11 I had to do 12 and 13 first so I could get my hands on the connectors to pull them out. It's quite a tight squeeze to get your hands in otherwise as there is Amytal bar restricting your ability to pull them all the way out.

    Jon Pick -

    I replaced the hard drive with an Samsung 840 EVO SSD. I used a Newer Technology Adaptadrive bracket (fit perfectly). Since the SSD doesn't have a temperature sensor, I used a suggestion on this forum to just short the sensor plug with a small piece of wire and tape the connector down out of the way against the iMac's case. Works perfectly, and the fans run at minimum speed (verified with http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont... ). I wouldn't recommend shorting the sensor for a mechanical hard drive, but for an SSD (which runs cool anyway) there shouldn't be any problem.

    isonno -

    I perfectly agree with you, I replace too the origin HD with an Samsung EVO 840 1T, no shorting of the sensor, without problems. I just set the fan control with Macs fan control !

    Filippo -

    I am planning on upgrading & replacing the HDD with a SSD. I don't have the Apadtadrive bracket but I have this SABRENT 2.5 to 3.5 Inches Internal Hard Disk Drive Mounting Kit (BK-HDDH). Will this be fine? Here is the link to the product on Amazon (http://tinyurl.com/jkjnk6q)

    rupeshbk -

    I'm trying to replace Seagate 500Gb drive with a new WD 1Tb drive. Can not fit the thermal connector to the WD drive. How does one fit it??

    Lee Harris -

    You need to replace the Seagate with another Seagate or use software to control the fans.

    Scott Dingle -

    On reassembly, I found there was no place on the hard drive to plug the connector in. Like u, I got a WD drive from iFixit, whereas the Mac came with a Seagate. So i just left the thermal connector dangling. Following startup, however, I am not getting fan noise.

    Peter Shenkin -

    Whoops. I take back what I said about no fan noise. Eventually it started back up....

    Peter Shenkin -

    Note - If you’re replacing the conventional HDD with an SSD, and using the appropriate thermal coupler, you only need to detach the sensor from the main board, you can leave the other end on the Hard Drive you’re removing. This also means that you have no need to worry about the orientation of the connector.

    Ian Richardson -

  11. dFPvQsNZm1YWyMx4
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    • Löse das SATA Datenkabel, indem du seinen Verbinder von der Festplatte abziehst.

    • Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den SATA Power-Verbinder von der Festplatte zu lösen.

    Except this picture identifies them backwards. The larger connector of the two is the power connector. The smaller is the data connector.

    Steven Kendel -

  12. qkcZW3PmDQNQewKl

    • Entferne die beiden 9 mm T10 Torx Schrauben, die die obere Halteschiene der Festplatte am Gehäuse befestigen.

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    • Drehe die Festplatte leicht aus dem Gehäuse heraus und hebe sie dann aus den Haltestiften in Richtung Oberkante des iMac.

  14. FIbrSroESTRLSW5f

    • Entferne die beiden Torx T8 Schrauben, welche die obere Halterung an der Festplatte befestigen.

    • Entferne die obere Halterung von der Festplatte.

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    • Entferne die beiden Torx T8 Einschraubstifte von der anderen Seite der Festplatte.

  16. iDxZAcIEGtBXmmEr

    • Löse vorsichtig das Stückchen EMI Schaumstoff von der Vorderseite der Festplatte ab.

    • Vergiss nicht, es auf die neue Festplatte zu kleben.

  17. HKQbp12ZISQhNfAv
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    • Folge den nächsten Schritten, wenn du die Festplatte durch ein SSD-Kit ersetzt.

    • Wenn dein Festplatteneinschub so wie auf dem ersten Bild aussieht, dann folge stattdessen dieser Anleitung hier.

    • Richte die SSD-Stecker mit den Anschlüssen des Metalleinschubs aus.

    • Drücke das Laufwerk gegen die Anschlüsse des Einschubs bis die SSD gut sitzt.

    • Die SSD lässt sich nur in einer Richtung mit dem Einschub verbinden. Wenn die Stecker nicht passen, drehe die SSD um und versuche es erneut.

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    • Benutze einen Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher, um die vier silbernen Schrauben (zwei auf jeder Seite) an den Kanten der SSD einzusetzen, um sie am Einschub zu befestigen.

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    • Setze das mitgelieferte sensoraktive SATA-Netzkabel in den Anschluss des Einschubs.

    • Das Kabel kann nur in einer bestimmten Richtung eingesetzt werden. Wenn das Kabel nicht passt, drehe es um 180° und versuche es erneut.

    Can anyone point me to purchasable parts for steps 19 +20: The “sensor-enabled SATA power cable” and “temperature sensor board”? It’s essentially the parts found below listed as “SSD Temperature Sensor compatible with iMac Intel 21.5" and 27" Late 2009-Mid 2010”, but I don’t want to spend $230…

    iMac Intel 21.5" and 27" (Late 2009-Mid 2010) SSD Upgrade Kit

    Jason Gamm -

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    • Ziehe die weiße Schutzfolie von der Rückseite der kleinen Temperatursensor-Platine ab, um den Kleber frei zu legen.

    • Klebe die Temperatursensor-Platine auf die freilegende Metalloberfläche der SSD nahe am SATA-Stecker.

    • Biege die überstehenden Drähte des Temperatursensors so weg, dass sie beim Einbau des Einschubs nicht im Weg sind.

  21. TB3g2BfZthZmgZof
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    • Montiere die Haltestifte der alten Festplatte mithilfe eines T8 Schraubendrehers auf die Seiten des Einschub.

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    • Befestige alle Halterungen, die von der alten Festplatte abmontiert wurden, auf dem Einschub.

  23. ciVrfTP4LtNtlEV3
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    • Verbinde das SATA-Netzkabel des iMacs mit dem anderen Ende des neuen sensoraktiven SATA-Kabels.

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    • Verbinde das SATA-Datenkabel des iMacs mit dem Anschluss des Einschubs.

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    • Die in diesem Schritt gezeigten Bilder stammen von einem 2017er iMac. Unter Umständen sehen deine Kabel etwas anders aus, aber der Vorgang bleibt der gleiche.

    • Schiebe den SSD-Einschub in den Platz, der vorher von der Festplatte eingenommen wurde.

    • Verlege die SATA-Kabel so, dass sie anderen Komponenten nicht in die Quere kommen.

    • Versuche, die Kabel auf keinen Fall zu knicken, und verlege sie so, dass sie nicht eingeklemmt werden.

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    • Wenn dein Motherboard über einen Anschluss für einen Festplatten-Temperatursensor verfügt, folge diesem Schritt, um die Sensorkabel einzustecken.

    • Finde den Stecker auf dem Motherboard, der als HD TEMP oder HDD TEMP ausgezeichnet ist.

    • Wenn du Schwierigkeiten hast, ihn zu finden, folge dem zwei-drähtigen Temperatur-Kabel, das du von der alten Festplatte abgetrennt hast.

    • Falls das vorherige Temperatur-Kabel noch mit der Platine verbunden ist, trenne es ab und entferne es. Du brauchst es nicht mehr.

    • Verbinde das zwei-drähtige rot-schwarze Kabel des Temperatursensors mit dem Stecker auf dem Motherboard, der als HD TMP oder HDD TEMP ausgezeichnet ist.

    • Der Stecker passt nur in einer Richtung. Wenn er nicht passt, drehe ihn um 180° und versuche es erneut.

    • Verlege das überschüssige Kabel so, dass es anderen Komponenten nicht in die Quere kommt.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Andrew Bookholt

578335 Reputation

65 Kommentare

Make sure the hard drive is of the same producer and it has a temp sensor connector. It's the only way to ensure that the heat sensor connector will fit into the hard drive's socket. If you don't plug in the temp sensor iMac's HDD Fan will rotate at its maximum speed, ie. over 6000 rpms - the noise is extraordinary!!!

David Relich -

I replaced my internal HDD on my 215" iMac, but the iMac can't get access to the new hard disk's (Seagate Barracuda Green) temperature sensor. The HDD fan in the iMac steps up the RPM, and over about 15min reaches 6000RPM (VERY loud) and stays there until machine is shutdown or put to sleep.

I found a fix for this: http://hddfancontrol.com/HDDFanControl/H... - this tiny piece of shareware software allows the iMac to see the temperature of the drive via S.M.A.R.T., and therefore the fans react according to the correct temperature again!

Ian -

One thing Andrew left out here, which I discovered on my own, is that even if you have the temperature sensor connected to the correct pins, you ALSO have to make sure that it is 'oriented' properly.

On the sensor connector (the little head that plugs into the hard drive) I saw a little white dot on one side, which it turns out, indicates that's the 'top'. So on my iMac, you have to make sure when you connect the temp sensor connector with the white dot showing.

Otherwise, I got the 6000 rpm fans.

robert Seith -

Success. For any interested people, it's about an hour - going slowly. Now that I've done it, I assume I could do it again in 15 minutes if I had to.

Just have the right tools handy, the T 8 and T 10 bits in particular. Getting off the display screen is easy. The screws are harder than you'd think because of the magnets, but they're not that bad. I recommend having tweezers to help pull them and place them later on.

Overall, the thing that worried me most was the fan issue. And, so far... it's not an issue. I had a seagate 500 gb, and I replaced it with a seagate barracuda 3 tb hhd. Everything fit right into it, just as it did into the original. No optical sensor needed. No new sensor needed, period. No software needed. Nothing. Just put in the new hd, and it works. I'm very pleased, and very proud of myself. Good luck to anyone considering doing this upgrade. You can do it, really.

Kevin -

It's a pretty straightforward procedure. Took less than an hour. I replaced the 500GB Seagate Barracuda with a Seagate Barracuda 2TB, model ST2000DM001. So far, after about 30 minutes of use, it's working great, and I haven't had the fan problem, but we'll see what happens.

Kevin's advice about the tweezers for extracting and inserting the screws that attach the display to the case was right on (although I used a small pliers instead).

Before you begin the replacement procedure, I highly recommend putting the new drive into a hard drive dock, and restoring to it from a Time Machine backup. Try booting off the new drive once to make sure it works. Then, when you swap the new drive for the existing internal drive, it'll be ready to go with no further effort needed.

eshienbrood -

The removal of the screen (step 1&2) can easily be done with just a normal plunger. No need to go and buy suction cups.

Jon Ingi -

I discovered that using some of the many iTunes cards that for packrat reasons I throw in my desk drawer can be used to carefully side in between the glass and the case. Once You get one in leave it there and use another to advance across the top. With 4 cards in place I was able to get the glass far enough off that I could then remove it. (It astounds me when I add those cards up how much I’ve spent) Going to the less expensive iTunes & App Store model was a stroke of genius.

Bill Wilson -

Screen removal was easy with the suction cups. I replaced my Western Digital 500GB blue drive by another Western Digital Blue 1TB because I thought I'd avoid the fan issue but finallythe fan started running at 6000rpm. I ended up buying the software at http://www.hddfancontrol.com/ to correct the issue.

Steven Vandal -

I installed an SSD drive and because there's no thermal sensor connection on it, I used SSD Fan Control (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/), which is free, to set the fan to a quiet level.

Whole thing works like a charm... revived a 5 year old iMac!

Mike Saltsman -

Anybody here knows anything of update to SSD? I can't find any tutorial on the net.

T

Thomas Olsson -

What kind of update?

Scott Dingle -

I replaced my 500GB Hitachi drive with a 1TB Samsung 840 EVO SSD yesterday. I have only two significant remarks:

# To fit a 2.5" SSD in the 3.5" HD bay, you must use some kind of brace/adapter. Some SSDs can be bought in kits which include an adapter; mine didn't, so I bought a Deltaco brace.

# There's no connector for the apple temperature sensor on the SSD. You must either disable the apple fan control or buy an external sensor.

** You can disable the fan control by short-circuiting the sensor cable. This fools the apple fan control into believing the drive is forever cool. This is what I did.

** You can install some kind of software which overrides the apple controls. I did this, too, using Macs Fan Control.

** You can attach an external sensor on the SSD and connect the sensor cable to it. I would have liked to do this, but I couldn't find any reliable information on which sensor to buy.

lenborje -

Thomas, see my previous comment.. It works like a charm, no issues.. just make sure you use something like SSD Fan Control (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/) otherwise it'll be running at 6k RPM.

Mike Saltsman -

Could someone tell me what are the signs of a damaged vertical sync ribbon cable ?

I have backlight issue: extinctions.

Only occurs when Energy saver is on (!??).

Bernstein -

I called Seagate July 22 2013 . They claim that " Seagate never made this HD and it was modified by apple " They also insisted the Sensor connector was a " Jumper option block " . Also they have no replacement telling me " Any SATA Seagate would work . I also called many retail HD sellers and all gave me the same incorrect info . I even sent photos of the HD connector and the MB connector and all insisted it was only a Jumper block and all HDs have them . So much for Tech Support . I did find some original Apple HD for $ 225 to $ 400 . I installed a standard HD and will try the Software Speed Control described in this fine iFixit guide .

To pull the front plastic lens I used the Windshield mount from a GPS .

David Anthony -

It is not necessary to remove any connectors or cables from the LCD to the MB . Just lean the LCD back about 5 inches . Use a 1/4 inch ratchet wrench with a 1/4 socket to hold the Torx bits , or a short Torx screwdriver . Unscrew the 2 HD screws , lean the HD up out enough to disconnect the 3 connectors . I do not like the Orange suction cups also . They are very stiff and also have a metal screw in the center off the cup which might put a mark on the plastic lens . I use GPS car windshield mounts . The lens is very easy to pull off . The locater pins on the lens Bezel are poorly attached and may fall off . Super glue them back on or just forget them as they are really made to make factory assembly faster .

David Anthony -

Fan Control Software : I used this Free software for controlling the speed of my fan . It seems to work after 5 hours of testing . Link to site ( http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ ) .

David Anthony -

I also try this software, but I'm not happy with it! The fan is always hearable and runs always with min 1100 rpm. Before the HDD replacement I rarely heard a noise from the fan!

And how can I now uninstall this software?

kevinhagmann -

Upgraded to a 2TB, 8GB SSD combi from Seagate - as recommended same company as the HDD which was in the iMac - scary to do but with a little help (holding the screen whilst I unplugged the cables, and reverse) it worked very well indeed - bought the tools through Ama(XXX)on in the UK and the company charged a fortune - did not find the iFixit EU shop which has the same prices as the US one

GREAT job with these instructions - would have had to rely on a sloppy shop to do it otherwise...

Only getting back to status quo ante is proving difficult due to not quite working time-machine.

Mathis -

I had the same experience as eschienbrood- replaced a 500 GB Seagate with a 1 TB Seagate; took about an hour, and would've gone faster if I hadn't dropped one of the screws for the monitor into the chassis. Replacing the 8 screws for the monitor was by far the hardest part of the operation. The heat sensor for the HD went in the same way as it was on the old drive, and there are no fan problems.

Ken Russell -

great guide ! I replaced my four year old 500Gb classic hard drive by a Samsung SSD 840 EVO 500GB. The HD's internal temperature sensor I replaced by a original DVD drive sensor (ordered @ Applecomponents.com / Apple part# 922-9229, Hard Drive Temp Sensor Cable 2009/2010 iMac 21", 27", $20.81) and mounted the SSD in two 2,5" > 3,5" adaptor brackets. Be careful, use ESD protection when working inside your iMac. First I put a "ESD protection bubble plastic sheet" on the table, then on top aluminum foil for the display and the glass panel. The iMac was on a real ESD carpet on top of the (ESD) plastic and grounded.

Jean -

Once I had successfully completed all the above steps I connected an external USB DVR drive to my imac and turned it on and it booted up the installation DVD no problems straight from the external DVD drive. I have heard contradicting things about whether OSX we boot up from an external drive or not but mine did no problem.

The next thing to bare in mind is that when you boot up your machine, if you want to do a fresh install onto your new hard drive you will need to go to Disk Utility and click on your new drive in the left hand tree and select partition. Select 1 partition and then select options which will allow you to select GUID, click ok and then click on apply and your hard drive will be formatted. Now when you try to install the OS you will be able to select your newly installed hard drive.

My factory installed drive was a Seagate 1TB drive and I have just replaced it for a Seagate 2TB SSD/Sata hybrid.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/seagate-2tb-sa...

Jon Pick -

This Guide works perfect for me. I've upgrade my MAC to a Samsung EVO 500 GB SSD without any problems. I also didn't use any additional HDD frame ore something else.

I use the original HDD frame (the little metal bar), drill in two new holes and then screwed the on the SSD Cause there isn't any movable part on a SSD therefore also no vibrations occurs. :-)

I solve the FAN@6000 issue like others here, with this free tool:

( http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ )

It also works perfect, cause it running as a service from the start of your MAC

Oliver Beck -

About step 10 reversing the thermal cable. If its a Seagate Barracuda to be replaced the thermal-sensor cable needs to be modified to fit. I have replaced with Toshiba drives and they have two pins in the middle of the female connector.

Use a cutter to modify the cable to be able to turn it. Otherwise the fans will run at full speed.

Peter H -

Hi Peter! I need to replace a Barracuda in my iMac mid 2011, and have found out about this annoying question of the thermal sensor. (theres a thermal sensor by OWC but it's not available in Argentina, unforntunately) Can you explain more clearly how to modify these pins ? And which HDD models would allowed such modifciation? Does it really work? Thanks!

Diego -

I've finished a HD replacement on my EMC 2308. Some notes from my experience:

-During reassembly, cables can easily get pinched, damaged.

-Mind well the fan issue. Err on the side of safety. I lost my LED Driver Board due to overheating. After HD replacement, screen did some brightness flickering- this is a warning sign that your board is overheating. React immediately. Up your fan RPMs or turn off computer. I played with my fan RPMs and had them ranging between 2000-2500 RPMs, but alas, it was not enough(my computing was non-intensive). A couple flickers, then 5 minutes later the screen went black for good. Burnt circuits on the board.

-If you do achieve 'major fail' status, there are lots of people parting these things out nowadays, check that auction site for boards and cables. Mind the details.

-Have a can of compressed air at the ready. Banish the dust, don't manage it.

-Also, a nice clean microfiber is handy.

-Respect the delicate nature of the machine's functions and Apple's particularities.

John Blue -

Excellent directions. I just replaced the original 500 GB with a 1 TB and now I'm reloading the operating system. No issue with the temperature sensor orientation since the new drive and the plug are keyed and will only go in one way. Also, you really don't need any suction cups to remove the front glass. Just use a finger nail or anything somewhat soft, like a credit card, to raise it at one corner and then gently lift up and it will come away from the magnets very easily. Thank you for the great directions!!

paul -

I successfully replaced my failed drive following this fantastic guide a few days ago and everything is running great! The entire process took me about an hour and that was with me working very slowly, making sure I followed all the directions and warnings in the guide.

Throughout the process, I was really concerned about the possible fan issue. So far... it has turned out to be a non-issue. My original drive was Seagate 500 gb, and I replaced it with a Seagate Barracuda 1 TB HD model ST1000DM003. Everything fit just like the original. No additional cables or no new fan control software has been needed . I just put in the new hd, and it worked. I have an additional 2010 iMac that will be needing this same upgrade soon and I hope to tackle that one after the holidays. :-)

Ed Swiatkowski -

I just replaced the LED control board on my late 2009 21.5" iMac and everything worked well. Great guide! So now I am thinking about replacing the HD with a 1TB SSD, and also about putting in a 2nd smaller SSD in the optical drive bay. Can I control the fans for both of those with software? That seems to be the easiest solution, rather than messing around with shorting out the lead or trying to add a third-party sensor in some way. I have 16 GB or RAM on this puppy and if I can get SSDs in there I can see using this computer for another couple of years at least.

pgralen -

This is what I did: I bought a WD Black (4T) and an enclosure for my old HD. First I put the WD disk in the enclosure and made a copy using CarbonCopy Cloner. The first copy failed somewhere during the night so I retried with all the energy/screen saving features off, network off and connected the enclosure directly to the iMac instead of using my usb hub. This went okay.

Then I opened up my iMac and swapped the disks. I put the thermal connector in a position away from the other connectors.

Then booted the iMac from the old HD, OSX does this automatically and selected the new WD as start up disk in the System Preferences. Rebooted.

iFixit!

martin38 -

Hi guys,

really interesting staff here. I need your help for an issue I have with my Imac 2008. I had replace the HD ( i didn't do by my self, but in arepair center): they assured me that new HD is ok and they had done a complete back of the data included OSX, but once I've started mi imac it stay on White screen. What can i do: obviously I call them back and ask for help, but I need to understand if they had done a good job and if their are able to fix the issue.

hank you for your help

Enrico -

Hi! Thanks for instructions! It took me almost one hour to replace a 500G HDD. Since it was a Toshiba 1TB, I had to follow Ian tip and used HDD Fan Control. After installing I just copied the backup I've done before via CopyCloner. It took almost 6 hours. Now I have plenty of space. Thank you guys at Ifixit!

macnando -

Does it worth someone to change the drive with an ssd since the Late 2009 model doesn't support sata 3? I have a spare samsung 850 evo 250 gb ssd and i am thinking about it.

christos -

Tempreture sensor from Other World Computing, https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIDI...

Matthew Smith -

Hey guys,

I'm about to replace my hard drive but I was wondering if I need to install the IOS software after the replacement is all said and done. I've done an SSD swap in the past with a 2010 Macbook pro and required a separate 10 gb memory thumb drive with the IOS software already downloaded onto it. Not sure if i need to do the same for the IMAC EMC 2308. Thank you

Sebastian Solis -

Just replaced the hard drive on a late 2009 imac 21.5" because nothing was working. It started with a "beach ball" where I could not access anything then finally ended up with the Apple logo, a spinning wheel and a progress bar that would not load anything. So I figured it was the hard drive. Now the computer is working just fine, it comes on quick and the fan are spinning normally but, but, the DVD's (2) provided with the system when bought are being rejected from the super drive !!!! I follow the instructions on the DVD but to no avail, I get the flashing question mark and don't no now what to do....can anybody help?

Atara -

Hey Atara, I'm in a similar situation. I replaced the hard disk on the same model iMac, but now when I boot up, the system doesn't detect the new SSHD. I just get the flashing "folder of death."

Putting the original drive back in yields the same result, so I think there is a problem where the drive's power cable connects to the PS. That's beyond my level, so it's at the tech shop now.

Both drives boot fine from a USB enclosure. It's not the drive.

As for your issue, not sure what's up there. The superdrive on our model crapped out a long time ago and it just takes up space now.

smith981 -

I successfully used this guide on my 2012 27". I was able to do only removing the 2 wire LCD cable. Replaced a Seagate with a Seagate 2TB, but still ended up with the fan issue. Mine starts out normal, & then after an hour cranks way up. At times it slows down and sounds like ikt will go back to near silent running, but then escalates again. Going to try HDD fan software or similar.

Bruce Rothenberger -

Need HELP, please. Took a late- 2009 iMac 21" into Apple for technical help. The PC crapped out on me. Was told that the HD needed replacing. I just installed a WD 1 TB Blue IHD. It does not have the temperature sensor pins, however I thought I could work around that via a software program. I spent a considerable amount of time making certain all was connected correctly, however when I turned the PC on I have a white screen but I also have a blinking "?" (Question Mark). What to do??

smackerooster -

You have a empty Harddrive. So there is no Operationg System - this is the "?".

Start with Snow Leopard / Lion CD.

Frederik Rischmann -

Have you OSX installed on your HD ?

Olivier Deschamps -

Hello.. I have a 2010 imac 27, And this day I have installed a toshiba 3to without temp sensor, for the issue with the fan I have a 2009 macbook pro for parts, and many temp sensor, after little modification on the wiring, the chassis temp sensor of the macbook pro fit perfecly on the hdd with some tape, and no error, fan at correct speed, and could read temp of the hdd in macfan control.... Succes

Sorry for my language, i'm french.

sylvain78 -

Well done Sylvain

Olivier Deschamps -

Hello, I changed the HDD of my late 2009 21,5" iMac with a crucial 2"5 Crucial SSD. Everything seemed to be OK, but when I started the computer I got the "?" sign for non-reconnaissance of the SDD. After dismounting and control I observed the data cable was not properly fixed. Then I closed the machine and I put a USB key for starting.

After installation of MacOS Sierra, I only had to stop the incredible fan noise : Mac fan control is very efficient. You need to know the maximum acceptable temperature for the CPU. I have a "new" computer. Thanks for the tutorial.

Vanderlinden -

You can buy a Temperature Sensor for 2009 iMac on Ebay. I did this and don't need any Tools for Fan Control.

Also replace the HDD with SSD and .. omg .. the iMac is around 30 times faster then before. O_o

Frederik Rischmann -

„short-circuiting the sensor cable“ works great! Thanks Lenborje!! :-)

Fabian -

The original Apple temperature sensor consists of an ordinary NPN-transistor. The type is BC547 or the equivalent 2N3904.

You connect the base and collector leads to the black wire and the emitter lead to the grey wire. Then you use double adhesive tape to fasten the transistor to the hard drive a few centimeters from the drives circuit board.

Sven, Gotland

Sven Lundber -

Hallo, habe gestern die original Festplatte im 21,5“ iMac Late 2009 (500 GB Seagate) gegen eine neue SSHD Seagate Firecuda 1 TB getauscht. Ich habe dann einfach den eingebauten Thermalsensor wieder an die neue Platte gesteckt. Alles in Ordnung, keine Lüfterprobleme! Der rote Text im Schritt 10 trifft also nicht auf mich zu bzw. meinen iMac.

Der über Alternate bestellte OWC-Sensor geht wieder zurück. Abzocke von OWC?

—————————————-

Hello, I replaced the original HDD (500 GB Seagate drive installed by Apple) in my 21.5“ iMac Late 2009 with a new SSHD Seagate Firecuda 1 TB yesterday. Then I simply connected the original built-in thermal sensor to the new drive. All works fine, no fan issues or something else! Red text in step 10 was not true for me btw. my iMac!

The thermal sensor adapter by OWC will take it’s way home to Alternate, where I bought it. Rip off by OWC?

Tom, Berlin (Germany)

Tom Schmidt -

I HAVE A HD WITH PROGRAMS ETC. Would like to use it as a replacement on my iMac laptop.

Could I install OS X System without erasing the programs I use .

Henery -

I love this, Great explanations on the “How”to do

Henery -

Great guide! I just replaced the old Hitachi 500 GB with a new Seagate 2 TB Drive and encountered the issue with the temp sensor connector. I ordered a spare cable from an old model with had a Seagate drive from Ebay (Item number 593-0998) and replaced that as well. Now everything is working as intended!

Dudy Dudsen -

I tried to replace the hd with ssd. Changed the hd and put everything back to place. Tried to start but nothing, no sound, no fan.

Tried to start the mac without the display attached and the mac start. How can i know which cable i damaged ?? Any ideas ?

nicolas Liegaux -

Thank you so much! Great instructions, easy to follow! :)

Danae -

A few comments having updated 5 machines in a row:

1) The OWC 2.5-3.5” tray / SDD holder is a better option than the ICY dock used here. The OWC tray is made of die-cast metal and allows much better air circulation than the plastic icydock. Plus, the temperature sensor board (sourced from OWC) has more room between it and the iMAC display panel

2) Carbon Copy Cloner and a external drive enclosure or dock with a FireWire 800 interface are your best bet re: a fast and easy transfer. Apple Disk Utility will not clone a drive you’re booting off so unless you’re willing to wait through an endless boot from a DVD install disk, get Carbon Copy Cloner. It will even re-size / partition / install the recovery disk.

3) It’s a shame that in some cases parts-only kits are not available here or elsewhere. I only needed a single set of tools.

4) By far the longest-taking aspect of the upgrade is the hard drive transfer. If you have multiple machines that need a upgrade, bring multiple docks and start cloning in advance.

Constantin -

There is a glue around the display when open it ?

Simone Saragosa -

Hi Simone,

There is no glue in this model. The screen is held in place with magnets!

Arthur Shi -

First thing I noticed was that the LCD screen on my computer did not come out the same as this one. I’m fairly crafty, so I figured out how to lift the screen out, only to find that all of the connections were different. Still managed to get it apart but when I got to the HD removal, the screws were not placed conveniently vertical like this computer. On mine, they were on the side and completely inaccessible without removing circuit boards. Argh!! decided not to go any further as everything was different and didn’t want to end up with an inoperable computer, so off to the store it will go for install. Best to leave it to people more familiar than me. On the bright side I did manage to get it all back together and working.

davisflyer -

Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Robby McWhorter -

DO make sure that you’re using the right guide. The code (EMC 2308) is embossed on the base of the iMac stand.

I used a USB to SATA cable (USB to SATA) to reinstall a working OS onto the new SSD and then backed it up from Time Machine. This meant that I knew I had a working replacement BEFORE I opened up the machine to replace the old disc with the new one.

There’s a lot of confusing information about the thermal sensor here, BUT if you’re replacing a conventional HDD with an SSD, you just need to make sure that you’ve got the appropriate SATA bridge with the sensor built in: Thermal Sensor NO fan problems!

I had no problems disconnecting and reconnecting the four main links behind the LCD screen and felt much happier having painless access into the main body of the computer, while the LCD sat safely on a clean cloth, well away from the dusty interior of the open iMac. After procrastinating for a year. This turned out to be painless!

Ian Richardson -

Excellent; I chose to replace with a 1TB SSD and the guide worked for me all the way through. This is the most ambitious fix so far for me and has given me more confidence (not to say a faster computer with doubled storage) so thank you Andrew.

Jim Kinnibrugh -

How will the data on the original hard drive...and anything else be recovered? No one writes about data backups, is it necessary? Reinstall or something?

Thank you for your answers!

barany.ede -

I completed the upgrade and I am getting an issue where the drive cannot be formatted correctly. In Disk Utility it gives an error: error wiping volume data to prevent future accidental probing failed

I even tried it without the thermal sensor adapter and it was the same. When I tried the drive in an external usb adapter it had no issues being formatted. Could this be an issue of the Sata cable?

Lawrence Szabo -

If your drive is already formatted, why not trying to see if it works properly inside the iMac ?

Olivier Deschamps -

The extraction of the screen is a bit tricky: make sure you have a flashlight while you're disconnecting the cables connected to the main board. Could be useful the help of someone for holding the screen while you're disconnecting the cables.

Paolo Berlanda (eto) -