iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Festplatte Austausch

Geschrieben von: Sam Goldheart
  • Kommentare: 220
iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Festplatte Austausch

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

39

Zeitaufwand

1 - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Wenn du die Festplatte austauschen willst, musst du zuerst das Display vom Rahmen trennen und den linken Lautsprecher entfernen.

Bei dieser Reparatur wird in einigen Schritten beschrieben, wie du die Festplatte durch eine SSD aufrüsten kannst. Insbesondere wird gezeigt, wie der Temperatursensor der SSD installiert wird, so dass der Lüfter des iMac mit der richtigen Drehzahl arbeitet.

Bevor du am iMac arbeitest: Ziehe den Netzstecker und drücke den Einschaltknopf mindestens 10 sec lang, um die Kondensatoren des Netzteils zu entladen.

Sei sehr vorsichtig und berühre keine Anschlüsse der Kondensatoren und auch keine der Lötstellen auf der Netzplatine.

  1. nQQKb5VUW1riQNSL

    • Reparaturen sind relativ schwierig, wenn der iMac aufrecht steht und man keine iMac Reparaturhilfe verwendet. Man kann den iMac zwar auch für Reparaturen hinlegen, jedoch ist es einfacher und schneller den iMac in aufgerichtetem Zustand zu reparieren.

    • Wenn du die Reparaturhilfe aus Karton von iFixit hast, dann baue sie erst mit Hilfe dieser Anleitung zusammen.

    This instruction page is not clear and is ambiguous if you have to do all the steps to just change the power supply please clarify another words do I have to remove the speaker and the hard drive to replace the power supply?

    crawfordjohn -

    This is a display removal guide not the power supply guide!Here’s the guide you need to follow for that iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546 Netzteil ersetzen

    Dan -

    Didn’t need the cardboard wedge to remove the display. Waste of money. Lay your Mac on its back.

    James Clive -

  2. J3UsWvDZhdyRjfvE
    J3UsWvDZhdyRjfvE
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    vBSboKQj3h1K63or

    • Beginne an der linken Seite des Bildschirms, auf der Seite der Ein-/Aus-Taste, und schiebe das iMac Opening Tool zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.

    • Die Achse am iMac Opening Tool verhindert, dass es zu tief in das Gerät gesteckt wird. Solltest du jedoch ein anderes Werkzeug benutzen, stelle sicher, dass du es nicht weiter als 9,5 mm in den iMac steckst. Es besteht sonst die Gefahr, Antennenkabel oder andere Komponenten zu beschädigen.

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green -

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden -

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden -

    I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

    Benon Koebsch -

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson -

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman -

    Don’t know if you are still around, but THANK YOU for posting this video! The video made it seem SO NOT SCARY and, in conjunction with the photos and comments and tips on this guide, was a lifesaver. Big thumbs up.

    Melissa Ortiz -

    First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

    What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

    Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

    Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

    Carlos Ferrari -

    It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

    Depple -

    NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.

    Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??

    Dan Kelly -

    Where do i get the “iMac Opening Tool?” its neither in the list of tools nor could i find it on the tool page.

    Patrick Cella -

    Hi @snappadoodle! The opening tool is included in the adhesive kit included in the tool list, but you can purchase it separately here.

    Sam Goldheart -

    After disconnecting the power cord and before cutting the panel adhesive, push and hold the power button for 10 seconds. This will discharge the power supply capacitors. In case you accidentally touch the solder joints on the board, you won't be shocked and drop the panel.

    Paul Floro -

    Bottom line: This repair seems to have worked (so far no more intermittent shut-downs). Thanks iFixit!

    As a novice who fully expected to destroy the display or worse, I make the following recommendations: (1) Before you start, read the steps several (many) times; visualize doing them and imagine how things could go wrong; (2) Read all the comments—there were some really helpful tips—like simply displacing the left speaker rather than fully removing it; (3) Get the recommended tools*; and (4) take your time—if you start to feel frustrated—seriously, stop and take a calming breath. Time is your friend. Failure is not an option.

    *I would add a 3-prong parts puller to the tool list—it’s great for pulling and starting loose screws so you don’t drop them down into the chassis like I did. It’s also great for retrieving the screws you’ve dropped into the chassis.

    Brad Bauknecht -

    Hi brad, what exactly did you repair to stop the shutdowns? I’m having the same issue

    merinian -

    Merinian: I replaced the power supply and it’s still working fine at this late date. No more intermittent shut-downs. Fingers still crossed!

    Brad Bauknecht -

    Just completed the Core i5 to i7 CPU upgrade and can strongly recommend getting the “pizza tool” to cut the display adhesive. It worked flawlessly and was done in less than 5 minutes. No inadvertent cables cut. No display problems.

    John Fisk -

    Thank you very much for the instructive tutorial. I just successfully replaced the hard drive on my 2012 iMac 27. I used a disposable surgical scalpel 15 blade, and locked the blade extending 9 mm from the scalpel shaft using office tape. I used regular double sided tape to reattach the screen. I cut the strips using the scalpel. I have no previous computer experience and this is the first time I replaced a computer part. This was easy and fun.

    Filip Dolatowski - Friday 11th Dec 2020

    Filip Dolatowski -

    You are very lucky! I’ve had three systems come in which someone did the exact same thing! All three cut the display ribbon cables. Please don’t use surgical knifes or any other knife! Use the proper tool the special pizza cutter wheel designed for the task.

    .

    You likely spent more on the knifes than what the wheel cost with the correct tapes. You make the next time doubly hard to open not using the correct tapes! Hows the built in microphone? You may have messed it up.

    Dan -

    Thank you very much for the tutorial. You are the best!

    After reading all the post here I almost gave up doing this on my own. But I did it anyway and was succesful. I would recommend everyone to use the rollcutter. There is no risk of harming the screen if you use it. And in my case it was enough to open the imac. If you do not harm the screen connector or the screen the biggest part is done. It gets easier once you`ve stacked your screen somewhere safe. The parts inside are mostely not as delicate as the heavy and expensive screen!

    Take your time and work carefully. It is definitely doable!

    CONSULTINEL -

    I found the cutter tool that came with my kit to work just fine. The wheel is extremely thin and I had no problem inserting the wheel to begin cutting. I follow the guide for the most part but took my time and use the cutting wheel slowly and then repeated the process a few times. Once I was able to pry the screen back about an inch I used the other end of the tool to cut additional adhesive that was still clinging to the body of the iMac and the screen. Having just replaced the power supply, and having my iMac running again, I do not think I will use the adhesive strips to reattach the screen. The screen fit back in place no problem which I did to test my Mac. Because the iMac screen sits at an angle I am quite comfortable that the screen is not gonna fall off. Also while having a screen off I was able to clean the inside of the Mac of dust buildup. I think I will only use the adhesive strips down the road if I’m gonna sell the Mac, which means I can give it a good clean before securing the screen.

    James Orwin -

    If the screen falls off (which it will do!) it will damage the parts which would be a lot more expensive! PLEASE get the correct tapes and properly mount the screen back on.

    Think of it this way how many people have shot them selves with a gun not realizing it was loaded or set to go off!

    Dan -

    I think Dan is right as I decided it best to complete the process with the adhesive tapes to secure the screen. I just took some time to do a complete clean of the interior before sealing the display.

    James Orwin -

  3. TOdLSZhjOvmLaNwW
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    QQQiKlAomnEHFNYi

    • Benutze das Werkzeug wie einen Pizzaschneider - rolle es entlang des Schlitzes zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und es wird den Kleber durchschneiden.

    • Stelle sicher, dass du den Griff immer hinter dem Rad hinterher schiebst. Ansonsten könnte das Rad aus dem Griff herausrutschen.

    • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug entlang der linken Gehäuseseite.

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry -

    In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive. Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive. I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly!

    azaadkb -

    The cutting tool worked great until I accidentally twisted it a bit while rounding a corner. A chunk of the wheel snapped off, making the rest of the job quite a bit more challenging. Just make sure you are keeping the tool directly parallel with the screen.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ -

    I concur, opening the screen a 2nd time is considerably more difficult because the adhesive strips are thinner than the original, which makes getting the cutting tool inserted much more difficult….as a result unknowingly I elongated a small crack to a much longer crack and somehow, the LCD now has a wide grey strip from top to bottom….The first time opening was easy, second time resulted in a ruined screen.. The cost of. a replacement LCD is the same has replacing the entire computer….I would recommend anyone attempting to remove the screen for any reason, do not use the aftermarket adhesive strips if you ever intend to open it up; again, or cut the strips much shorter, or possibly use a few pieces of scotch tape or similar to hold the screen in place….since the screen tilts back, this should not be a problem…Good luck…

    S. Baxter -

  4. KWviyqBPJxAEZlxl
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    • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug um die obere linke Ecke.

  5. GyUDXVt1MfU6cEMG
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    • Schneide den Kleber entlang der oberen linken Gehäuseseite durch.

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman -

  6. UCbZRhS4Q2GmHgks
    UCbZRhS4Q2GmHgks
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    • Zerschneide den Kleber weiter entlang der oberen Gehäuseseite.

    • Du solltest mit dem Gerät immer etwas vor- und zurückrollen durch den Teil, den du bereits durchgeschnitten hast, um so viel wie möglich von dem Kleber zu lösen.

    what about the part where the camera is though? do I just treat it like the rest of the screen?

    Boris -

    yes. the tool can’t go too deep

    flow in -

    I measured a depth several positions.

    - About 6 centimeters near iSight Camera center, you must no use iMac opening tool, because iSight element exists.

    - iMac opening tool has a 9mm radius, so it may break iSight camera element.

    - Making a plastic card stacking 2 or 3 to 3mm, under the iMac opening tool, that makes inserting a gap 5~6mm like below.

    @. iMac opening tool

    ====== plastic card3 (credit card 1mm)

    ====== plastic card2 (1mm)

    ====== platic card1. (1mm)

    ———————————————— isight camera element (total 5~6cm) ————

    In my case, i got a display problem where lcd display yellow connector was torn without care.

    Be helpful.

    KWANGBOK, LEE -

  7. 5APTXJRSLoY1J6Et
    5APTXJRSLoY1J6Et
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    • Fahre nun um die obere rechte Ecke mit dem Werkzeug.

  8. AqmBMH4PmceMWUSv
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    • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug entlang der rechten Gehäuseseite abwärts.

  9. ivOApoIMRUTmwHpW
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    • Schneide den Rest des Klebers an der rechten Seite des Gehäuses bis ganz nach unten durch.

    • Jetzt solltest du das Werkzeug noch einmal zurück um das Gerät schieben, um so viel wie möglich von dem Kleber zu lösen.

    I didn’t have the fancy cutter or cards. So I used my actual pizza cutter. Followed directions just the same, and it easily cut through the adhesive w/o issues or marring the surfaces. Actually used it to rock back and forth to lift the screen. It’s all about taking your time. I rolled it back and further until cut thru. The 3/8 to 1/4 inch is right, but the screen framing actually prevents further depth unless you force it further. The adhesive actually protected the glass while cutting thru, so no damage. Great instructions, but where to get the replacement adhesive to reinstall?? Should be four independent strips.

    Keith Thomas -

    You are very lucky you didn't cut to deep! The plastic cutter that's in the kit is the only thing I would use. Spending a few bucks on a tool is a lot cheaper than $500 for a new display!

    Please don't use a real pizza cutter!

    Dan -

  10. GmdVHVsGVNnUjunN
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    LqOXwlZ2Nx3PNx1R

    • Das Opening Tool hat schon den größten Teil der Arbeit erledigt, jedoch klebt der Bildschirm immer noch etwas am Gehäuse. Eine Plastikkarte ist nötig, um noch den letzten Rest an Kleber zu lösen.

    • Lege den iMac mit dem Bildschirm nach oben auf einen Tisch.

    • Beginne an der oberen rechten Seite des iMacs und schiebe eine Plastikkarte zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.

    • Sei vorsichtig und stelle sicher, dass du die Karten nicht weiter als 9,5 mm in den iMac steckst. Es besteht sonst die Gefahr, Antennenkabel oder andere Komponenten zu beschädigen.

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer -

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema -

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov -

    I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

    Bummer

    Denis Sytmen -

    HINT: If you turn the card and use the blue part of it, then you can avoid going to deep: no further then the blue part …

    Barthold -

    On the cards I got with my iFixit kit, the blue part was way bigger than 9.5mm — closer to 20mm!

    I made a line 9mm from the edge of each of my cards and used that as a guide.

    Damian Chadwick -

    I’m thinking I might just use vinyl tape to keep the screen in place for at least a little while after an upgrade. The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary.

    Art Hackett -

    I wrapped two layers of vinyl electrical tape around the short side of an old gift card 3/8” from the edge. This “stop" prevented the card from going in too far. The card really helps to break the panel free.

    Paul Floro -

    This is a good tip!

    Lennart Saaf -

    Great idea! Wish I had read this before doing it. My less then optimal solution was to draw lines 3/8” around the cards, not as safe as your fix, but fast.

    Michael Piplani -

    Umm.. I’m not sure that I’d recommend using a repurposed credit card to open the display - I found that using the “pizza tool” to cut the old adhesive then using a pair of suction cups to gently pull the display up worked perfectly well.

    John Fisk -

    surely the card should have been designed such not to go further than certain distance with a barrier band.

    S Hussain -

    The cards don’t have any means to control the depth, its your skills which control it. Its no different from how you use a knife to cut your chicken up when you serve it for dinner.

    Dan -

    The pizza roller tool is enough to cut through the adhesive. You dont need to cut in a lot further. So the cards are really not necessary.

    sebastian.wittl -

    might be a stupid question but would credit cards or state ids work too?

    John Ta -

    You need the pizza cutter! The cards are used to hold the display off of the case frame.

    As for as using old credit cards and useless ID cards sure they will work. I wouldn’t use anything important ;-}

    Dan -

    No problems. I used two old credit cards and marked out a line using permanent marker so it was at the same depth as stipulated on this page. I even pushed it in a little deeper and no issues.

    James Clive -

  11. BrayRZ5WhgXATCAa
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    • Verdrehe die Plastikkarte leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse zu vergrößern. Trenne allen Kleber in der Nähe der Ecke auf.

    • Zu viel Kraft kann das Display zerbrechen. Arbeite vorsichtig. Versuche nicht, den Spalt mehr als 6 mm breit zu machen.

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman -

  12. YYkeP6M2dutx6UcY
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    • Höre vor der iSight Kamera auf, den Kleber durchzutrennen. Ansonsten besteht die Gefahr, sie zu beschädigen.

    • Schiebe die Karte in Richtung der Bildschirmmitte, um den Rest des Klebers durchzutrennen.

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. -

  13. k4HXtwyYgaRWse4x
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    • Schiebe die Karte zurück in die Ecke des Bildschirms und lasse sie dort stecken, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber den Bildschirm wieder festklebt.

  14. AXglDqbU5eOuIfCt
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    • Schiebe eine zweite Karte zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse an der oberen linken Seite.

  15. nLpHiwQT24UEcA4L
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    • Drehe die Karte leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse zu vergrößern.

    • Genau wie an der anderen Seite, bewege die Karte nur langsam, damit der Kleber genügend Zeit hat, um sich zu lösen, und das Glas nicht überbeansprucht wird.

  16. WbWsSSWJXpeLmkPo
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    • Schiebe die Plastikkarte in Richtung Mitte und höre wieder vor der Mitte auf, um die iSight Kamera nicht zu beschädigen.

  17. 36gXY62nHs1KVMys
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    • Schiebe die Karte wieder an die obere, linke Ecke und lasse sie dort stecken.

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    • Hebe den Bildschirm nur einige Zentimeter an. Er ist immer noch mit dem Logic Board des iMacs mit Kabeln verbunden.

    • Wie im Bild gezeigt, inseriere die Karten zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und fange an, diese leicht zu drehen, um den Abstand zwischen Gehäuse und Bildschirm zu vergrößern.

    • Wenn Teile des Bildschirms sich nicht zu lösen scheinen, dann nimm eine weitere Karte, um in diesen Bereichen den Kleber ein weiteres Mal durchzutrennen.

    • Beginne, die obere Seite des Bildschirms nach oben vom Gehäuse zu entfernen.

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma -

    I would strongly recommend using suction cups

    Luca Mucci -

    Agreed about the suction cups. An extra pair of hands might be good here as well.

    Damian Chadwick -

    I agree, I’m using iFixit suction cups right now.

    tanner85 -

    Go very slowly when lifting the display – give time for the adhesive at the bottom edge to stretch and flow. If you lift too fast, the glass can crack. That’s what happened for me.

    Gerry -

    The stickiest location on my iMac was the mid-to-lower section of the right side. There are a couple of thicker areas that needed attention from the plastic cards.

    Lennart Saaf -

    This is the step where I cracked the screen.

    HABEEB102 -

    Did you use the pizza cutter tool first?

    Dan -

    WARNING!!! This is where you can crack you screen. TAKE YOUR TIME! Everything work fine for me because I took my time. I was very shocked at how fragile the screen is. It does have a small amount of flex but don’t push your luck. There were two things that made this easy for me #1 Once you have used the cutting wheel to your best judgement to cut the adhesive, start using the iFixIt plastic cards as spacers and space them evenly around the screen. I used 10 individual cards of and gently moved them up and down at each section two at a time. Once I started having less resistance, I combined 2(i.e. 5 sets total) cards evenly space to allow for move rigid and stronger movement to separate the screen. This really helped me to free up more adhesive. #2 before lifting the screen up fully, use tweezers to pull the adhesive like a string from around the entire monitor. This will make lifting the screen much easier since all adhesive will be removed. Finally when lifting the screen use the cards with your hands under them.

    Andrew Phillips -

    Would any of you consider the possibility of heating the glass with a hot-air fan before starting the process? In that way, the adhesive would let the screen go easier, I think.

    ManuG -

    The type of tape has a lot to do with it. If the original tapes are still present then the pizza tool slices through the thin foam core of the tape so heating is not needed. If on the other hand someone replaced the tapes with just regular double sided tapes then there is no foam core to split and there is a sizable risk the display will get damaged in the process of taking it off. So sure in this case a bit of heat might help, just be aware the LCD panel area is quite close to the edge along the top three sides so you also have the risk of dating it from over heating!

    Dan -

  19. yUjTYChAHFFVEHPw
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    TAuHC5tOVvidUT5I

    • Während du den Bildschirm mit einer Hand nach oben hältst, trenne mit der anderen Hand das Stromkabel, welches zum Bildschirm führt.

    • Hebe den Bildschirm zwar so weit an, dass du genug Platz hast, um an den Anschluss zu kommen, jedoch nicht so weit, dass du das Kabel dehnst und den Anschluss beanspruchst (~20cm).

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson -

    Quote - "Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility" You cannot be serious can you? So because someone attempted to repair their own Apple device that they OWN, you are saying that they may/will be locked out of using any Apple repair service again? Ridiculous claim sorry.

    Peter Newman -

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman -

    Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

    Joseph Orr -

    After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive. Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected! I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal. Sounds obvious but it’s quite the annoyance if something goes wrong at this point.

    azaadkb -

    Very difficult to work with these connectors.

    Power cable very difficult to unplug - data cable veeeeery difficult to plug in.

    I noticed that working with the iMac positioned vertically (and with a proper support for inclination) makes this step slightly easier…

    Luca Mucci -

    Interesting comments.. personally, I didn’t find the cables particularly difficult to detach and reattach. You do have to be patient and gentle. Personally, I found that a rolled up beach towel gently wedged between the unit and back of the display helped keep the glass up. Also, a small flashlight can be helpful to see the cables and connectors if you’re lighting isn’t perfect.

    John Fisk -

    I’d agree to John - not overly difficult. My workaround was to prep the screen for re-installation and then place it in front of the standing machine. The cables are long and flexible enough to be put in place even in this state. You can easily attach the cables and continue with fixing the screen to the housing.

    stefan -

    I would not recommend doing this step as pictured. The cable you are removing has little tabs on the wide side that can be depressed inwards towards the center of the connector, releasing the cable. If you just grab the cable as pictured and yank it out, without depressing the side tabs, you are likely to damage something. Don’t pull on the wires, use your fingernails at the connector to squeeze the very small little tabs inward to release the cable from the connector.

    maccentric -

    The removal of the LCD power cable does require the left and right sides to be squeezed inwards towards each other first before removing, why this isn’t mentioned in the take apart can lead to damaging the iMac.

    robert -

    I agree with maccentric. DO NOT just pull the power cable. Use your fingernail or spudger and gently press the tiny notch inward and towards you gently and one side will disengage. Do the same for the other side and it will slide right out. The notches just have enough edge to catch your nail or spudger. Using your nail is better as you can better feel when you have caught the edge and can feel the cable move.

    Andrew Phillips -

    I lifted the display a few inches up and propped it open in the middle using my iPhone in portrait mode with its torch on. Did the job nicely:

    James Clive -

  20. 6RnVAN4sFcKYnHbZ
    6RnVAN4sFcKYnHbZ
    D15DV6TTFVMxBrxX
    fOYaUhX6BZompmM3

    • Klappe die Metalllasche am Anschluss des Bildschirm-Datenkabels um.

    • Trenne das Kabel vom Logic Board.

    • Dies ist ein empfindlicher Anschluss, der relativ einfach beschädigt werden kann. Ziehe das Kabel gerade zur oberen Kante des iMacs aus dem Anschluss heraus.

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park -

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest -

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john -

    I agree! +1

    Jim Reitz -

    Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

    Marsha Giardina -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly -

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Goldheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson -

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

    Thanks.

    Bryan -

    First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.

    Chip T -

    At least on my “late 2013” model, the smaller display cable connector has tiny, tiny clips on the outside edges. These must be squeezed to unlatch it. Don't pull on the cable itself or the wires can be pulled out. Even with my small fingers, it was hard to grip the clips. When reconnecting, the connector will lightly snap into place.

    Paul Floro -

    I managed this step without any problems, but I had my wife hold the screen up while I disconnected/connected the cables. I STRONGLY encourage another pair of hands here so you can focus your full attention on being ultra careful with the cables.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ -

    On the 2015 there are 2 cables.

    1. Once the display is loose use the Mac foam block sold from Ifixit to keep the display from rocking to hold open the glass

    2. Blow out dust with canned air

    3. Get a flash light and small flat edged screw driver

    4. Use the screw driver to slow pry loose the connector from the socket by gently inserting it in the gap on the left and then on the right slowly easing the connector from the socket towards the top of the glass

    5. The more center connector has a pull tape and a wire loop. Lift pull tape and the wire loop will raise up.

    6. Pull the wire loop towards the top of the glass to slide out the connector from its socket

    Anthony Crocker -

    Good instructions except for the screwdriver - try and use a plastic spudger instead ! Also, getting a headworn LED light makes life a bit easier.

    Philip Sedlmair -

    Have a late 2013 model and went to do the SSD upgrade. When going to remove the display we cracked the bottom left corner of the glass (just the glass frame part - not part of the screen that displays anything). We were also having difficulty putting re-attaching the display flex cable. Whenever we finally went to test it before re-sealing the screen back on with new adhesive it would sound like it is turning on as it makes boot-up noises and the fans start running, but the screen would just remain black. Just wondering if the crack in the bottom left-hand side of the glass/display would have damaged a part of the display assembly or if it would be more likely that we just damaged the display flex cable (which can be replaced for $26)?

    Zach Tweel -

    Did you get to the bottom.of this?

    paul.lynch1 -

    does anybody know how the Display Cabel pin assignment is? I want to try if I can attach the Panel to another grafic card

    Marco Rizzo-Scheible -

    I’ve completed the upgrade to SSD, but while restarting my screen remains black. As if no connected.

    I assume I broke the sensitive connector.

    —> how to order a spare?

    Durain -

    Did you get to the bottom of this?.

    paul.lynch1 -

    is the display assembly of 2015’s the same as 2017’s?

    zenu -

    No! Apple loves to mess us up!

    Dan -

    The panels are different since technology progresses at a rapid pace and Apple does like to be on bleeding edge of things. When they do a manufacturing run of screens, there will be a few years that will have the same screen. I believe 2017 is when they introduced the higher resolution panels. Everything from 2012 late to 2015 should be the same though.

    Philip Sedlmair -

    That display cable connector is common to many Macs of the 2012 era. I’ve destroyed 2 in 38 years of servicing all types of computer equipment.

    As stated, there is a latch on this connector. If you put any incorrect force on the cable or connector during disassembly or reassembly, you will break the cable and possibly the connector. The cables can be purchased online and the video connector on the display is exactly the same.

    I repeat, if you pull out on the video cable after it has been unlatched instead of parallel to the logic board, YOU WILL BREAK IT.

    James Hendrickson -

  21. gYZxSMymAWlMjGDG
    gYZxSMymAWlMjGDG
    B6XN5Y6VGAhYGYYo

    • Hebe den Bildschirm bis in eine fast senkrechte Position an.

    • Es gibt immer noch einen Klebestreifen an der unteren Kante des Bildschirms, der den Bildschirm wie eine Art Scharnier mit dem Gehäuse verbindet. Klappe den Bildschirm einige Male auf und zu, um den Kleber zu lösen.

    • Entferne so viel vom Klebstoff wie möglich. Fasse ihn dazu an den Außenkanten an und ziehe oder rolle ihn nach innen.

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues -

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky -

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh -

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek -

    Are you sure your trying to remove a late 2013 model A1419 display assembly?

    robert -

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens -

    Niemals den unteren Klebestreifen mit einem scharfen Gegenstand wie Rasierklinge oder so versuchen zu trennen, davon geht die Beschichtung des Displays kaputt und man hat hässliche Streifen unten hinter dem Glas. Stattdessen lieber versuchen, das Display nach oben zu klappen und abzuziehen.

    Bas ti -

    translation from Bas Ti because this is very important:

    Never try to separate the bottom adhesive strip with a sharp object such as a razor blade or something, the coating on the display will break and you will have ugly strips at the bottom behind the glass. Instead, try to flip up and pull off the display.

    Kurt Grootjans -

    If you are just replacing the hard drive, I have found that it is quite possible to do while leaving the screen connected, making the process much easier. The amount you need to tilt the screen to access the little pull tabs at the bottom to release the screen is also sufficient to access the drive. I remove the drive while the iMac is upright. I also heat up the bottom of the screen to soften the glue and to help with the possibility of the glass cracking while doing this step.

    maccentric -

    Very dangerous! You’ll stress the cables and the logic board connectors.

    Dan -

    I meant that you can leave the bottom strip of adhesive attached; you still need to disconnect the 2 cables.

    maccentric -

    As mentioned before you can pull out the lower adhesive strip. Dont cut it or move the display up and down. This is even more dangerous. On the lower side of mac where the display glass ends is a offset. When moving the display up and down you might crack it over that offset.

    sebastian.wittl -

    When removing the adhesive from the top of the screen, be sure to start at the iSight camera location (= in the middle). If you start at an upper egde of the glass (side doesn’t matter) towards the middle, you risk removing the black background foil from the screen, which will result in ugly stripes behind the glass.

    christopher.winter -

  22. sPFd3RR2FTXWelPg
    sPFd3RR2FTXWelPg
    YMLTIfoCvFoo5rGC
    afZImOJDfPhMyQQY

    • Berühre auf keinen Fall die Lötpunkte auf der Rückseite des Netzteils und die Zuleitungen der Kondensatoren. (Rote Markierung)

    • Wenn nötig, kann eine Plastikkarte helfen, den übriggebliebenen Kleber zu lösen.

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL -

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb -

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric -

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann -

    You probably had just an SSD installed and no HD, which is on the opposite side of the motherboard (and quite a bit more work to access).

    maccentric -

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow -

    J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

    David Mariaux -

    Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. I heard and felt a tiny “click” and after replacing the HDD with SSD etc I can not power the iMac up anymore. Not a sign of life :-( I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too?

    David Rosner -

    @john - there’s a slot on the back of the motherboard for a storage stick. fancy

    flow in -

    I took my time and pulled both tabs slowly gently. Easily removed and glass came right off.

    Keith Thomas -

  23. bPuCuBaiLsojNAKs
    bPuCuBaiLsojNAKs
    gtafMyrIFXZYurtQ
    AeXTJY2dRCfDTiUo

    • Sei vorsichtig bei der Handhabung des Bildschirms. Er ist groß, schwer und aus Glas. Die Kanten des Displays sind zerbrechlich. Vermeide es, ihn an den Ecken hochzuheben.

    • Hebe den Bildschirm aus dem Rahmen nach oben und entferne ihn anschließend aus dem iMac. Lege das Display auf eine flache und weiche Oberfläche mit dem Bildschirm nach unten.

    • Möglicherweise musst du an einer Seite anfangen, den Bildschirm langsam anzuheben, um den Rest des Klebebandes zu lösen.

    • Nachdem der Kleber durchschnitten worden ist, kann er nicht mehr zu Verkleben des Displays verwendet werden. Folge dieser Anleitung, um nach der Reparatur die Klebestreifen zu ersetzen, welche das Display am rückseitigen Gehäuse befestigen.

    You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it. Even if it’s possible to clean most of it off, it can be corrosive over time.

    Art Hackett -

    Use a large suction cup and latex gloves for this:

    https://www.amazon.com/FCHO-Suction-Alum...

    Philip Sedlmair -

  24. BFHPRdLqA5KZNGJQ

    • Wenn du das Displaypanel austauschst, musst du wahrscheinlich einige Bauteile vom alten Panel auf das neue übertragen. Vergleiche die Rückseite des alten Panels mit dem neuen. Achte auf alle Kabel, Sensoren und Schaumstoffformteile, welche auf dem neuen Display fehlen.

    • Wenn sich ein Kabel oder ein Draht unter einem Klebeband befinden, dann ziehe das Klebeband immer vorher ab.

    • Wenn das Kabel am Rahmen festgeklebt ist, dann musst du erst die Klebestelle mit einem iOpener oder einem Haartrockner erwärmen. Du kannst dann ein Plektrum unter das Kabel schieben und es ablösen. Ziehe niemals direkt an empfindlichenh Steckern.

    • Schiebe ein Plektrum unter die Schaumstoffformteile, um sie vom Display abzulösen und ziehe sie vorsichtig ab. Eventuell musst du sie mit doppelseitigem Klebeband am neuen Display befestigen.

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine -

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

    Thanks,

    Simon

    UK

    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah -

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!

    Simon

    simon kennedy -

    Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!

    Jordan Shababy -

    Be careful when removing the adhesive residue!

    I didn’t know it, but I ended up leaving slight scratch marks that can be seen from the front side.

    Eric -

  25. e2SQbENy6wul345Z

    • Entferne die beiden 10 mm Torx T10-Schrauben, mit denen der linke Lautsprecher befestigt ist.

  26. gKDsSsIWR4f4QgCp
    gKDsSsIWR4f4QgCp
    q3ZAsbgkhQTmAtIL

    • Schiebe den abgelösten linken Lautsprecher soweit nach links, dass die Schrauben der Festplattenhalterung sichtbar werden.

  27. POLboPSR6wDCQOrL
    POLboPSR6wDCQOrL
    AuX1HgDZFljPrFOA

    • Ziehe das SATA-Kombokabel gerade nach oben, um es von der Festplatte abzulösen.

    Where can I purchase this cable if my iMac only came with the m.2 SSD?

    Julien Dal Col -

  28. WtNqEsuv3qXHIWhA

    • Entferne die beiden 7,3 mm Torx T8 Schrauben, mit denen die linke Festplattenhalterung am Rückgehäuse befestigt ist.

    they are T9 for 2012.

    sean_gizzle -

  29. 46GMbQrdWuRMOhBW
    46GMbQrdWuRMOhBW
    pWdfnFTdXvxQueB4
    rD6ULDdslihryxhY

    • Fasse die Festplatte und die linke Festplattenhalterung zusammen an.

    • Kippe die linke Seite vom Rückgehäuse weg und schiebe die Einheit nach links.

    • Entferne die Festplatte und die linke Festplattenhalterung vom iMac.

  30. pL5C6Rk6VPJbItnW
    pL5C6Rk6VPJbItnW
    T33jCoZ6yOCtdDi3

    • Entferne die linke Festplattenhalterung.

  31. BHci35AvSBmp2sp6

    • Entferne die vier 8,1 mm Torx T8 Einschraubstifte von der Festplatte und übertrage sie auf die neue Festplattenhalterung.

    In my case these were T9 screw posts. Late 2012 iMac. They had traces of Loctite on them.

    rsnadd -

  32. HKQbp12ZISQhNfAv
    HKQbp12ZISQhNfAv
    C535jLFwdCXbrulv
    wDWxsjpZCDD5vCjk

    • Folge den nächsten Schritten, wenn du die Festplatte durch ein SSD-Kit ersetzen willst.

    • Wenn der Einschub der SSD wie im ersten Bild aussieht, dann benutze stattdessen diese Anleitung.

    • Richte die Steckkontakte der SSD mit den Anschlüssen des Metall-Einschubs aus.

    • Drücke das Laufwerk fest gegen die Anschlüsse des Einschubs, bis die SSD gut sitzt.

    • Die SSD lässt sich nur in einer einzigen Lage in den Einschub einsetzen. Wenn die Steckverbindungen nicht passen, dann drehe die SSD herum und versuche es noch einmal.

    what if I’m installing a hard drive?

    Troy Garcia -

    Didn’t bother with the SSD caddy. Some 3M sticky pads did the trick!

    James Clive -

    Two thoughts on SSD replacement/upgrade:

    1) It would help if some references were made to help us determine what we need in terms form factors. I’ve never used an SSD and see a 2.5” one that would work, but I don’t know if 2.5” SSDs are different (in form factor) from 2.5” HDs. A lot of us are still learning about SSDs and isn’t that what this site is about? (Learning new things about hardware and using hardware?)

    2) I’m not clear if I definitely need a new temperature sensor if I put in an SSD or if

    Hal Vaughan -

    Can I buy the kit without the SSD. I'm thinking of replacing my 3TB hard drive with a 4TB SSD.

    Also, would you happen to know what the maximum hard drive dimension that can fit inside of this iMac? I may try a 14TB hard drive instead.

    Larry -

  33. FtBOnUuDYZJTjvey
    FtBOnUuDYZJTjvey
    RvVXsqFVNCWuybvj
    UmyFUVECjaDZNRjp

    • Benutze einen Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher, um die vier silbernen Schrauben (zwei auf jeder Seite) an den Kanten der SSD einzusetzen, um sie am Einschub zu befestigen.

  34. quopgXjU6RgRFYYW
    quopgXjU6RgRFYYW
    6FVtDs36uVFQAEUg

    • Stecke das sensorfähige Kombo-Kabel in den Anschluss am Einschub ein.

    • Der Stecker lässt sich nur in einer Lage einstecken. Wenn er nicht passt, dann drehe ihn um 180° und versuche es nochmals.

    Is the thermal sensor needed? I fitted a replacement SSD and it’s all back together and the iMac’s fans are fine. They don’t go into full max speed mode.

    James Clive -

    If you have a problem with the fans, you can always use Macs Fan Control (free) to set the speed. The sensor is not needed.

    maccentric -

  35. nFPHEiNHZQZIIWir
    nFPHEiNHZQZIIWir
    25p6UPH1X2Hpm1ut
    kZJrQ2FKFMAo4eGZ

    • Ziehe die weiße Schutzfolie von der kleinen Platine des Thermosensors ab, so dass die Klebefläche frei wird.

    • Bringe die Platine an einer freien Stelle der Metalloberfläche der SSD nahe beim SATA-Anschluss an.

    • Biege die überschüssigen Kabel des Thermosensors aus dem Weg, so dass sie den Einbau des Einschubs nicht behindern.

    Great pics ! Is that “temp sensor board” is already on my HDD IMAC ?? Or must I buy one ?

    kenclark200 -

    Don’t bother with the thermal sensor. I didn’t fit one and the iMac is working fine and no fans are kicking in.

    James Clive -

    Instructions say to attach sensor to the SSD, but all pictures show it being attached to the SSD carrier. This may not represent accurate SSD temp as much of the carrier dissipates the heat absorbed from the SSD

    chris byrne -

    Confirmed, no need for the extra temp sensor on Mid-2015 iMac. (EMC 2806, Mid-2015 27" iMac). Just changed the old 1TB HDD to SSD, no extra fan RPM after power on.

    Laszlo Nyirfa -

    The adhesive on the sensor is very weak. My sensor fell off after a couple of days. Is there a safe glue to use to adhere it to the SSD? Super glue?

    estyle18 -

    FWIW I bought a 4TB Western Digital Blue SSD. The entire case of the SSD is plastic- there is no metal. Hoping the temp sensor adheres to it okay.

    Kupe -

  36. TB3g2BfZthZmgZof
    TB3g2BfZthZmgZof
    UZXpLNW61PfcoLXO

    • Übertrage die Montagestifte der alten Festplatte mit Hilfe eines Torx T8 Schraubendrehers auf die Seiten des Einschubs.

  37. KBSB2H5m4afo1XQb
    KBSB2H5m4afo1XQb
    yaSlbXuRWxuB6UEm

    • Übertrage alle Halterungen, die an der alten Festplatte angebracht waren, auf den Einschub.

  38. SldWU16exyqkJemL
    SldWU16exyqkJemL
    UjNyOhADTniaGyRe

    • Verbinde das Kombo-Kabel des iMacs mit dem neuen thermosensorfähigen Kombo-Kabel.

  39. YJqasivdZRKDWMjy
    YJqasivdZRKDWMjy
    FI6EqbMtmSvAcIM6
    DpsoNu5h3obcGm6g

    • Die hier gezeigten Bilder stammen von einem 2017er iMac. Dein Kabel unterscheidet sich vielleicht ein wenig, das Verfahren ist aber grundsätzlich gleich.

    • Schiebe den SSD-Einschub anstelle der alten Festplatte ein.

    • Führe die Kabel so, dass sie keine anderen Bauteile stören.

    • Versuche, die Kabel auf keinen Fall zu knicken, und verlege sie so, dass sie nicht eingeklemmt werden.

    The SATA cable on my Late 2012 was not long enough to comfortably attach to the end of the temperature sensor array after it was plugged into the new SSD. I had to fold the array and slide it under the SSD and housing. There was much resistance to the folding so I took it slowly to let the wires adjust gradually to the fold so they would not break.

    Bob Enders -

    Unfortunately, the adapter that comes with it isn't long enough to avoid pushing against the screen in the front. One week after upgrading to SSD my screen fell off shattering and breaking the power connector on the systems board. A new screen is ordered but I'm hoping the power connector isn't damaged beyond repair. I'm going to try to adhere the HD adapter to the back inside of the case with 3m adhesive to avoid pressure against the screen.

    Erik Johnson -

    As a newbie, the only other upgrade I have done is to replace my iPhone 7 battery. I had trouble on reassembly.

    This is a great upgrade guide, but it would be important to me to see the reassembly instructions including the cautions.

    For example, I had issues with reattaching the plugs in the phone. I could see having an issue with them here, as well as repositioning the display back into the cabinet.

    I do PCB board repair work and repair pinball machines. But I won’t try this.

    Larry Hamm -

    how do i glue on the new screen? which glue is used?

    Marc Seeh -

    Try 3m double sided tape from Amazon, it available in 3mm width which is ideal for iMac screen. It has a very thin foam and is much better quality than the cheap Chinese kits available on Amazon. You will have to trim it to size with a sharp craft blade as you fit. Don’t risk your screen falling off from using cheap tape in the so called fitting kits!

    Tony Street -

Abschluss

Um deinen iMac wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge, und benutze die Anleitung für Klebestreifen, um das Display wieder festzukleben.

Bitte entsorge deinen Elektroschrott fachgerecht.

Hat die Reparatur nicht ganz geklappt? Versuche zuerst einige grundsätzliche Lösungen. In unserem Forum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.

Tinte & Feder

Sam Goldheart

Mitglied seit: 19/10/12

457712 Reputation

64 Kommentare

I did successed this. But after just turn on, main fan spins faster than ordinary status. About 1600 rpm. Ordinary rpm is just 1200.

How can I fix it? Not by software solution(i.e., fan control app), help me by hardware solutions, plz.

*Replacement HDD : WDC WD40EZRX-00SPEB0

*iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, Late 2014)

*3.5 GHz Intel Core i5

*AMD Radeon R9 M290X 2048 MB

Changwon -

Dear Changwon, i also own a Retina imac (i7 Radeon 295). Harddisk has been changed by the distributor – they sell customized "Edition iMacs". Now i have the same problem as you subscribed - from day one. Fan speeds up to 1700 / 1750 rpm after a few seconds after power on. Next week my Apple certified distributor will check my iMac and hopefully fix that "noisy" problem. I will inform you, when we will be successful ... Have a great time so long. Greetings, Markus (mr@i-map.de)

Markus -

Did you use a original HDD with apple Firmware or a normal HDD? If u use a nomal HDD with non apple Firmware, you have the Fan Problem.

Klausi -

This may work:

http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIDIM...

John McCarthy -

And it just show 1.8TB but that HDD is 4TB.. :( Help me anybody..

Changwon -

What does the Festplattendienstprogramm says? Can you see the 4GB there?

Klausi -

So is it possible to replace the harddrive with an SSD drive?

I was surprised to read that the iMac has an SSD and a HDD?

I guess that is how the Fusion Drive works? "In software"?

I thought the Flash would be part of the HDD case and not seperatly on the logic board?

Thorsten -

same problem , now have dual drives, not the fusion drive. been looking online for the last few days but all of the how to's don't actually help. I can't unmount the GD original drive to fuse them

William Evans -

Anyone know of a GOOD how to on using the terminal to make this a fictional Fusion Drive? I can't get mine to unmount, been trying for 2 days

William Evans -

I've used this twice to rebuild the core storage and create the Fusion drive::

http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions...

It requires you to wipe/reinstall but its worked fine for me running Yosemite and El Capitan.

John McCarthy -

If your 5k Imac only came with an SSD will the mounting brackets for a standard HDD be available when I open it up?

Cameron Berry -

I too have this same question. Can I ADD a HD to an iMac Retina if factory configured with SSD? Is the bracket in there? Or the SATA cable? If not, does ifixit sell a kit to do this?

pauljschneider -

+1 on this. Any teardowns of a SSD-only 5K iMac yet?

shaolindave -

I have some good news everyone. i have the late 2015 imac that was purchased ONLY with a 512 SSD WITHOUT fusion drive. i was also wondering the same thing and i can happily report that the new late 2015 iMACs DO HAVE THE BRACKETS IN PLACE. the more challenging piece was to find the custom SATA cable. i was finally able to get one used from powerbookmedic. the apple part number you need is 923-00092. another challenge was finding the hard drive mounting pins that go into the hard drive. After all however i installed a 5tb drive and i am waiting for my thermal sensor to reduce fan speeds. this is great news since i've been trying to find an answer for this myself FOR MONTHS!!

JDoes -

I talked with Apple Forum official Apple store in

Sweden today, and a seller there agreed that it was

possible to do an after sales custom modification

of a newly delivered Retina 27 Imac (512 GB or

1 TB) flash-PCIe-SSD only with (for example) an

additional 2 TB eSATA-SSD - but that this was

likely to cost like twice as much as buying the

additional SSD yourself ... .

So the implication is that a new Retina 27 Imac

with (512 GB or 1 TB) flash-PCIe-SSD as only

storage has a free eSATA-storage slot ... .

Patrik Albin -

Hi,

I own a late 2015 imac 27" with 1Tb Fusion Drive. I want to replace the HDD by an standard SSD. Do I need to use the owc thermal sensor?

Michael S -

Anyone knows what's different between normal HDD and this apple HDD? I also want change my 1T HDD with larger ones (2T etc) due to current one was almost full. If changed it does the fan speed become high? Where can I buy apple HDD? Has anyone intalled that OWC In-line Digital Thermal Sensor with normal HDD?

Yao -

If you are using that much storage, a sensible solution would be a standard massive, HDD in an external caddy connected by Thunderbolt

coplan -

Made the same mistake of going to with the FUSION Drive, the limited SSD compare to the previous version is really noticiable.

I maxed out my ram to 64gb and it felt slower than my macbook Air.

The reason why APPLE charge double is to cover replacement charge of a new display.

Even though I am some techie, I have broken my share of apple display screen. I took it to an certified Apple repair shop for an upgrade on my late

2015 imac, tech must of had issue with step 18-19. Came in for a hard drive replacement, came out with 3 inch grey vertical line.

si bui -

I can't find where to purchase an Apple Authentic HDD. Additionally, I'd like to put a higher capacity HDD in my iMac anyway.

<p>

At the top of this article, under the parts section, there is an "iMac Intel 27" 5K Late 2014 and Mid 2015 Hard Drive Cable" for $19.95 listed. Does this cable eliminate the high revolution fan problem? Or does one need to use OWC's "In-line Digital Thermal Sensor"?

<p>

Anyone have experience with these cables? Has anyone replaced their HDD with a 2TB or 4TB drive and not had fan problems without getting such a cable?

Steven Bunnell -

I have the identical question and browsing on this site and other sites couldn' find an answer.

What exactly besides the tools for the replacement I have to have/buy in order to avoid fan issue if I upgrade HDD with "non-Apple" HDD on my 2015 iMac 27 Retina?

Nenad Stankovic -

If you just want to replace a broken screen, do you have to follow all the steps after the original screen is removed?

jujuhay -

Also I have a mac bought this year - will these instructions be suitable for it? The screen is broken!

jujuhay -

My screen shows a wide black line. What could it be? Cables or LCD display?

Arcano 17 -

Hi All.

Can someone pls help clarify the firmware situation for me pls? I have a 27 inch 5K late 2014 iMac and the 3TB fusion drive has failed.

I have managed to determine that the conventional drive is the part at fault and I want to change it, but I am reading about custom firmware's. Is this true? or am I able to just swap out for a new "off the shelf" Western Digital 3TB drive?

If it is true about the firmware how do I get a compatible drive and how do i install the custom firmware.

If I buy an identical drive to the 3TB Seagate drive, Can i just swap over the circuit board from the dead drive? Would that contain the custom firmware?

Thank you for any advise you can offer.

rossfarr -

I've just successfully finished this. I bought iMac 27" 5K Late 2014 with an SSD, without any HDD / Fusion drive.

First of all, big kudos to the author, I can't imaging doing it without the detailed steps including high resolution images.

As I struggled to find some details when ordering the parts here's for anyone looking for more information:

- Buy all the recommended tools, they are life-savers. Also buy the Adhesive Strips set.

- If you are adding an SSD drive to the SATA bay (Crucial in my case), you won't need the thermal sensor cable. At least I can't see that the fan would be going any high after installing the drive. (I'm on macOS Sierra.)

- If you don't have a HDD in your iMac yet (like me, I only had the PCIe SSD), you will also need the iMac hard drive cable as it is not in. It is the one that they are selling here on iFixit. (I had to order it from elsewhere as it was sold out)

!!! To attach the SATA cable, you will need to disassemble everything including the mother board.

David Zemsky -

To install the hard drive SATA cable, you will need to follow this (longer) guide: iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Blade SSD ersetzen

One more thing you will need to order: the 4 hard drive pins / screws. Some websites sell them.

David Zemsky -

Are these instructions valid for the 2017 27 inch iMac?

Brandt -

We don't have guides yet for the 2017 version, but from what I can tell the procedure is very nearly identical. You should be able to perform the swap using this guide and a little extra caution, especially if you have any past experience with iMac repair.

Jeff Suovanen -

Also if replacing the hard drive with a ssd drive are there any cables or enclosure that should be purchased? Trying to put in an evo 850.

Brandt -

Depends on the iMac you have. For 2017 iMac you dont need any extra cables.

Dennis Sari -

I'd like to replace my drive (I believe it has malfunctioned). What brand/make of drive should I buy to replace it so that it functions as it did prior to the drive failure? I don't want to break the Fusion capability nor the any other functionality. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Jay Macguyincali -

I just completed this on a mid-2017 iMac & all went well except for the fact that even though I replaced a Seagate with another Seagate (1TB to 3TB), the fan was constantly on full blast. So, I had to buy the OWC dongle and open up the iMac again to install it. Just completed that & now all seems well, nice & quiet!

Matthew Gonzalez -

Hi Matthew, can u explain to me what was wrong with a new 3TB (SSD?) hd, and what is it OWC dongle? cheers Tom

Tom Swoboda -

Would like to add one more point. Just completed it today but then the foam tape is no longer sticky enough to hold the screen. I almost broke the screen because of this. So it may be useful to add some double-sided tape on the edges of the case after the operation.

Colin Lai -

Hi Colin! This is precisely why the guide ends with “To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our adhesive strip replacement guide to reattach the display glass.” You’ll need to get new adhesive, remove the old adhesive, apply the replacement, test the device, and seal it back up! Best of luck!

Sam Goldheart -

Hello all, I know this is quite old but I just replaced the drive to my 27 5k iMac 2014 and I didn’t need the SATA enclosure OR the expensive OWC Temp sensor! I was concerned cuz it was $40 and seemed like a rip-off. I bought a Samsung 860 Evo 1TB and decided to plug it and try it. If it gave me a jet engine fan I’d bite the bullet and buy the sensor. To my surprise fans were fine and I just used double sided 3M tape to tape the drive to the rear casing. So far no issues!

yingwang01 -

after having reassembled the monitor a white halo appears in the lower left corner, perceptible only when the monitor transmits a black image, from what can it be depended?

giuseppe giordano -

Probably what I just commented below

Denis Sytmen -

PLEASE NOTE !!!

DO NOT PUSH THE CARDS IN MORE THAN 1CM!!!! IT WILL DAMAGE THE FRAGILE RIBBONS FOR THE LCD.

I did just that, and found my way to the many threads with this issue.

all of which, including myself, needs to cough up $500 for a replacement lcd assembly.

FFS!

Denis Sytmen -

Thank you for the beautiful guide! Definitely would add the tip in step 21 of grabbing that tab to pull the adhesive strip out.

Everything worked well. Loooooove having an SSD over HD! …and more storage.

Thanks again!

Karl -

Thank you Sam very much for the guide. I bought the 1TB SSD replacement kit from Ifixit for my late 2015 iMac after my iMac’s drive gave up the ghost. To the best I can tell, I followed the instructions correctly. When I boot up my iMac I heard the familiar startup jingle but then unfortunately I only get a flashing ? on the screen. I completely uninstalled and reinstalled the SSD drive, again following the instructions, same thing. I can’t find any tutorials that address how to deal with this issue. I can’t afford a new iMac so I’m praying I can get this to work. Any advice greatly appreciated, thank you!

Kaiser Soze -

In order for anyone to be able to help, I think you’ll need to provide more context. The flashing “?” on the screen means the system cannot find its boot drive.

You said “after my iMac’s drive gave up the ghost”. What does that mean? To me, that implies the drive was dead, and the system wouldn’t boot anyway. It was probably already giving you a flashing “?”. So simply installing a new blank drive wouldn’t change anything.

Did the system boot before, even with a dead drive? If so, how? Did you install an operating system on the new disk before installing it, and it booted off of it before, but does not boot now with a new drive installed?

The more detail you can provide, the more likely it is that someone will be able to understand what the issue might be in your specific case.

Reid Conti -

@ Reid thank you again for responding the other day. Turns out after the SSD installation when I rebooted I didn’t realize I had to “erase” the new drive in order for OS Catalina to load from the Ifixit external drive included in the kit. I emailed Ifixit support and they sent me a link to that tutorial that I didn’t find on my own searching. All good, fully functioning and loving it…like having a better than brand new 2015 iMac now!

Kaiser Soze -

Thank you Reid, I sincerely appreciate your thoughtful response. I’m tied up with work but will return with a more thorough description! (And working on my Surface Pro, sadly not my iMac!)

Kaiser Soze -

This was a really daunting prospect for me, tearing into a system that seemed utterly inaccessible. Computer repair, either hard or soft is miles from my metier, but this guide and the 2TB SSD replacement kit I got from iFixit made the the process go very smoothly. My iMac was running pretty rough, particularly after upgrading to Catalina, and I decided that since I was going to downgrade back to Mojave anyway, why not replace the 1TB hard drive with an SSD with twice the storage? So glad I did. It is honestly like having a brand new computer. Thanks for the great guide and the all in one replacement kit.

Paul Harrod -

Success! Replaced a dead fusion drive in our iMac 27” 5K Retina (Late 2015) with a brand new 2TB SSD. One comment after going through this ourselves: you really don’t need to take out the whole speaker. You can just loosen the two screws and move it aside to access the drive/put the new one in. Saves a bit of effort on that step. Otherwise, this was flawless. Thank you so so much for the guide and the link to necessary tools and making it as painless as possible. Couple of notes to anyone reading through these comments for tips: 1) You do NOT need to take out the whole speaker. You can just loosen the two screws and move it aside to access the drive/put the new one in. Saves a ton of effort. Don’t do it! 2) Watch this video: https://vimeo.com/139364064 - it makes it all seem so much less intimidating and I think the video in conjunction with this guide will get you to the right place. Good luck. :)

Melissa Ortiz -

I have a 2015 imac 5k. It has 32gb or ram with a 1 Tb ssd and it runs mega slow!

The ssd is clean with only the operating system on it. My read/write numbers on Blackmagic are very low ( in the early 200’s)

I know the ssd was installed recently but I do not know if the machine came with a fusion or conventional hard drive.

It did have the noisy, long running fan issue but I did the software hack to correct this.

Does anybody have any idea on how to fix this?

Ken -

Hi all,

If I need replaced only HD 3TB fusion drive configuration with SSD 2TB what can I use for accomplish this step (copy the content from 3TB old HD drive to 2TB SSD) witch software/tools can I use??

Regards:

Massimo

Massimo Delli Carri -

I had the exact same issue. The fusion drive got slower, and slower… I was able to ‘erase’ the SSD 2TB in disk utility and used MacOS extended as the file system, then restore from a time machine back up, after I installed the SSD in the imac. Little nerve wracking to fire up disk utility, before sealing the iMac back up, but it was seen by disk utility. Then sealed the display back to iMac, and then did the restore. Totally back in business now- and sooo much faster!

Michael Piplani -

I have been reading elsewhere that recent firmware updates means that Apple are now reading SMART data direct from the hard drive, negating the need for the OWC sensor cable. Does anyone have any experience of this?

I’m particularly interested in Late 2015 iMacs.

Copywriter Ben -

Great guide - “successfully” installed a Crucial 1000GB MX500 SSD following these directions. It “worked” but there have been so many bugs and glitches, I am reverting back to the original HD. I was never able to upgrade the OS after upgrading the hard drive - kept getting error messages and crashes. Tried wiping, reinstalling, etc the only thing that brought me back was a Time Machine restore. I think that I must have done something wrong on the software side of things - yanking out the HD and installing the SSD without doing any prep on it - and screwed it up in there somewhere.

Again, this guide is great, and has walked me through the HD replacement twice now :)

Any thoughts on where I went wrong with the SSD upgrade - software/OS wise?

chogunn -

this worked for me EXCEPT, after I got it all together my microphone does not work. I just don’t see how I damaged the microphone. Any suggestions/thoughts?

Mike Hansen -

I don’t know if you’ve sorted this out yet Mike, but I understand some iMacs have an offset microphone slot at the bottom, and this will get covered if using the adhesive strips 11 to 16.

Chris Stevens -

Great guide and kit - thanks! I was so fed up with my late 2015 iMac being sooo slow on start up, I purchased an external Samsung SSD and used it as my start up disk; miles quicker! Thanks to your guide and installation kit, I now have a proper internal SSD, which is even quicker! Made one error on cleaning the residual bits of tape, I got too enthusiasting along the bottom of the screen and wiped away some kind of coating!

One thing for UK residents to be aware of: because this kit comes from the EU, be prepared to get a bill from the carrier after delivery. Fedex billed me for VAT of £39 plus £12 for something called Advancement Fee.

Chris Stevens -

If you purchased the SSD bundle from iFixit, included is a 2.5” external enclosure with USB 3.0 attachment. According to iFixit, if you purchased this bundle, prior to beginning the teardown for swapping out the HDD for the SSD, you can put the SSD into the enclosure you can attached the enclosed SSD to the iMac and load an OS onto it. This will avoid having to load the OS onto the swapped SSD once it is installed and you iMac will be ready to accept download from your backup or other source. If you still wish to use the HDD, you will, unfortunately, need to purchase a 3.5” enclosure as the 2.5” enclosure supplied in the upgrade bundle is too small to accept the 27”iMac HDD (3.5”).

John Martell -

I got the 2tb fusion drive, and just want to replace the original drive. Will this be a plug& play, or do i still need an Apple flashed drive to avoid fan issues or other problems?Will it also self assemble as a fusion drive after a new disk is installed?

Chris -

Thanks for this tuto, Doing , power supply replacement and HHD replacement at the same time. 100% successful.

Ivan Corbet -

Help! so many steps, so many questions. can you please reach out to me, i tried to contact you on linked in but it said i have to pay for gold membership to contact you there and i can’t seem to find a place on here to send a direct message.

Sean -

This was a pretty nerve wracking install. Make sure to read all of the instructions and comments before attempting. It is good to work in step with the OWC video guide on Vimeo, though there are moments where the instructions differ and you will have to choose the option you believe to be best for you.

The instructions say you must use the cards to remove the remaining adhesive however I and others have had luck simply going over it many many times with the cutter tool. Take note of how how far the cards are intended to go in before using them. Go slow and read all of the directions first.

I purchased 91% isopropyl alcohol at Meijer. I didn't know this was necessary until I got to the very end. Best to grab that before hand so you can prepare the area for the new adhesive. This did not come with my kit. The instructions for the adhesive are at the end of the tutorial.

I am having trouble migrating my old HDD to my new SSD. Does anyone have any information on that?

Jacob Solano -

I have managed to successfully install the SSD and my iMac became ROCKET FAST! but as time goes by it becomes REALLY sluggish, very slow and poorly responsive. I have to reboot it resetting de PRAM (Command+Option+P+R) and it gets ROCKET FAST again, only to slow down 2 days later ... same cycle ... please advise

Laurentino Biccas -

After procrastinating about doing this for about a month after receiving the SSD upgrade kit I finally decided to give it a go and I was pleasantly surprised at how well it went. I have only a small amount of knowledge in this sort of thing and have never opened up an iMac before. I'm currently in the process of reinstalling and can't wait to see if there is a significant difference in the speed of my mid-2015 machine Take your time and read the guide several times including all of the comments and you will be fine.

Baxter Archer -

Hi I have upgraded 1TB HDD fusion for iMac 27 2019 model with 1TB ssd, after installing the ssd that formatted in APFS and installed Mac OS But now it looks more slower than before .

Pls advise

JK G -

Vielen Dank für die grandiose Anleitung. Ohne hätte ich meinen Festplattentausch (defekte alte HDD) garnicht erst alleine versucht. Aber sowohl die sehr detaillierten Schritte als auch das mitgelieferte Werkzeug im Set haben den Tausch zu einem Kinderspiel gemacht.

Mein Tipp: Nehmt unbedingt das mitgelieferte Werkzeug (Pizzaroller) und seid sehr geduldig und sorgsam beim Lösen des Bildschirms

Tim -