iPad Pro 11" Rear Camera Replacement

Geschrieben von: Chayton Ritter

Kommentare: 1

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Difficult

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

1 - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Follow this guide to replace the rear camera on your iPad Pro 11" 1st Gen.

This guide is written with an A2013 (Wi-Fi + Cellular) and an A2301 (Wi-Fi + Cellular + mmWave) iPad Pro. If you're fixing a Wi-Fi model, you can still use this guide—there will be some visual discrepancies, and you'll need to skip the steps related to the cellular antennas.

Some photos in this guide show the screen disconnected and fully removed. This isn't necessary for the procedure, so this guide skips those steps. If you wish to remove the screen, follow this guide.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

iPad Pro 11" Adhesive Strips

Schritt 1

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Schritt 2

While your iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under portions of the screen. To avoid damage, follow instructions exactly as written and note the following areas as you open your iPad:
Camera module and ambient light sensors
Display cables
Screen magnets
LCD edges

Schritt 3

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the screen and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

Schritt 4

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.
Position the suction cups near the right edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Schritt 5

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Schritt 6

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Apply a suction handle to the right edge of the screen, about 5 cm from the bottom edge.
Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap large enough to insert an opening pick.
Only create a gap small enough to insert an opening pick. Overbending the screen will damage it.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the LCD.

Schritt 7

Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
Slide the pick along the right edge to separate the adhesive.
When sliding near the volume buttons, don't insert the pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the screen magnets.
Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Schritt 8

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

Schritt 9

The top edge of the iPad contains the camera module and two ambient light sensors. These components are fragile and easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far. Only separate the adhesive in the marked locations to avoid damage.
The two ambient light sensors can be hard to see and can be located using a flashlight or by placing the iPad under a bright light.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm near the top left and right edges or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 1 mm near the middle of the top edge or you'll damage the camera module.

Schritt 10

Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
Slide the pick along the top right edge, stopping when you reach the right ambient light sensor.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm.
Leave the pick to the right of the sensor to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Schritt 11

Insert a new opening pick to the right of the ambient light sensor.
Slide the pick along the middle section of the top, stopping when you reach the left ambient light sensor.
Don't insert the pick more than 1 mm or you'll damage the camera module.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Schritt 12

Insert a new opening pick to the left of the ambient light sensor.
Slide the pick along the top left edge, stopping when you reach the left ambient light sensor.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm.
Once the top edge adhesive has been separated, you can remove the two picks near the ambient light sensors.

Schritt 13

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Schritt 14

Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner below the existing pick.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 2 mm when sliding on the right edge.
Slide the pick around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.

Schritt 15

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge, stopping at the USB-C port.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm when separating the bottom edge adhesive.
Leave the pick in to prevent the bottom edge adhesive from re-sealing.

Schritt 16

Insert a new opening pick to the left of the USB-C port.
Separate the remaining bottom edge adhesive.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm when separating the bottom edge adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the bottom edge adhesive from re-sealing.

Schritt 17

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.

Schritt 18

The left edge of the iPad contains several display cables. These cables are extremely fragile and easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far or at the wrong angle. Follow the instructions exactly as written to avoid damage.
The display cables are located within small indents of the frame and require an opening pick to be inserted at a 45° angle.
There are flat sections of the frame which require an opening pick to be inserted horizontally.

Schritt 19

Insert an opening pick at a 45˚ angle just above the bottom left corner.
Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display cables.
Carefully slide the pick along the left edge, stopping when you reach the flat section of the frame.

Schritt 20

Lower the opening pick so it is horizontal to the screen.
Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.
Continue separating the left edge adhesive until you reach the next indented section of the frame.

Schritt 21

Separate the remaining adhesive, making sure to follow the instructions exactly as written.
Slide the pick at a 45˚ downward angle and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.
Slide the pick horizontally and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.

Schritt 22

Grab two opposing corners of the screen and gently separate the rest of the adhesive.
Don't fully remove the screen as it is held in place by several ribbon cables underneath.
Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ambient light sensor ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.

Schritt 23

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the ambient light sensor cable bracket to the logic board:
One 1.3 mm screw
One 2.0 mm screw
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Schritt 24

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket.

Schritt 25

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the ambient light sensor cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Schritt 26

Don't try to remove the screen yet, as it's still attached by delicate ribbon cables.
Grip the right edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.

Schritt 27

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm screws securing the bottom cable shield to the logic board.

Schritt 28

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the bottom cable shield.

Schritt 29

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

Schritt 30

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Schritt 31

Cut two 6 mm wide strips from a playing card or cardstock to use as a battery blocker.
The strips should be about 4 cm long so you can easily grip them.

Schritt 32

Insert the card strips on each side of the battery connector until they stop.

I would like to add a bit of advice when it comes to isolating the battery from the board. As a repair tech, I recommend you insert a guitar pick next to the battery connector, rather than wedging something directly in between the battery and the connector, as you run the risk of damaging the connector. I see this happen fairly often amongst new techs and DIY-ers. If the battery connector does get damaged, it may result in the device not showing proper battery percentage (as in its a 1% all of the time) or the device may not power back on. If it does get damaged, it is completely fixable. But that should be carried out by a someone skilled in micro soldering.

Jesse Hooton -

Schritt 33

Use tweezers or your fingers to peel back the tape securing the top Wi-Fi antenna cable to the rear camera bracket.

Schritt 34

Use a Phillips PH00 screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the rear camera bracket to the frame:
Two 2 mm screws
One 2.3 mm screw
One 1.2 mm screw

Schritt 35

Use tweezers or your fingers to lift the right side of the rear camera bracket.
Remove the rear camera bracket.
During reassembly, lower the left side of the camera bracket back into place and make sure the small tab is slotted in, then hinge the cover closed.

Schritt 36

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera cable.

Schritt 37

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the volume and power button cable.

Schritt 38

Fold back the volume and power button cable so the top of the camera is accessible.

Schritt 39

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the top of the rear camera from its recess.
Remove the rear camera.

Abschluss

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 11" 1st Gen answers community for help.

Tinte & Feder

Chayton Ritter

Mitglied seit: 21/08/20

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iPad Pro 11" Rear Camera Replacement

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