iPad mini 4 LTE Logic Board tauschen

Schritt 1

Wenn dein Display gebrochen ist, verhindere weiteren Bruch und schütze dich durch Abkleben des defekten Displays vor Verletzungen.
Klebe überlappend durchsichtiges Klebeband (Paketklebeband) auf das komplette Display. Wenn das Glas extrem gesplittert ist, klebe mehrfach die Bruchstelle ab.
Dies schütz dich vor Glassplittern beim Arbeiten mit dem Display.
Folge der Reparaturanleitung so gut es geht. Wenn das Glas einmal gebrochen ist, wird es wahrscheinlich weiter brechen. Vielleicht musst du sogar einen Metalspatel verwenden, um das Display zu entfernen.
Schütze deine Augen! Während der Reparatur kann es vorkommen, dass kleinste Teile in die Augen gelangen könnten. Keine Reparatur ohne Schutzbrille.

Schritt 2

Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können.
Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.
Für sich drehende Mikrowellen: Stelle sicher, dass der Teller sich drehen kann. Wenn der iOpener hängenbleibt kann er überhitzen und sogar Feuer fangen.

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - 06/12/16

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - 29/12/16

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - 30/01/17

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - 19/07/17

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - 16/09/17

I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

ian cheong - 22/06/19

Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

Tim Feyaerts - 13/07/19

The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

polleyphony - 28/12/19

The iOpener did not work at all for me.

I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

Mike Jeanette - 29/12/19

Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

Kyle - 05/01/20

The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

laurentvidu - 01/02/20

I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

breadandbits - 24/07/20

My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

trebor65 - 11/10/20

My experience pt2

Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

trebor65 - 11/10/20

Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

gazza667 - 16/11/20

I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

Dennis - 10/01/21

Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

Manu R - 05/02/21

If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

mpulliam - 07/02/21

Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

Esmond Pitt - 03/04/21

Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

doug - 23/04/21

I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

Richard O'Brien - 22/05/21

No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

nin10doh -

#### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

T z - 06/06/21

I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

Mizzoo, s.r.o. -

I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

Randal Haufler -

I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

janderson martin -

WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

Run Up A Tree -

I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

marcelflueeler -

I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

Tom Weber -

iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

jharrison -

Schritt 3

Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden.
Im Verlauf der Reparatur kühlt sich der iOpener wieder ab. Erhitze ihn dann noch einmal für dreißig Sekunden.
Achte darauf, den iOpener während der Reparatur nicht zu überhitzen. Eine Überhitzung bringt den iOpener möglicherweise zum Platzen.
Berühre niemals den iOpener, falls er aufgeschwollen aussieht.
Falls der iOpener in der Mitte immer noch zu heiß ist, um ihn anzufassen, dann benutze ihn weiter, bis er ein wenig herunter gekühlt ist, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt. Ein ordnungsgemäß erhitzter iOpener sollte für bis zu 10 Minuten warm bleiben.

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - 22/12/16

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - 13/01/17

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - 14/07/17

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - 29/08/17

All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

Greg Latta - 12/09/19

I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

dave - 01/12/17

If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

Patrick Storey - 01/01/18

I agree with this.

Jarl Friis -

I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

mark fitzgerald - 24/04/18

30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

K

Karl Marble - 06/07/18

I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

Bernhard Keim - 30/01/19

Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

Collins -

Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

Larry Bennett - 24/02/19

I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

Fixrights - 30/04/19

iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

digital_only - 13/10/19

Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

Berard Romain - 23/12/19

Bonjour,

Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

Claire Miesch - 23/12/19

Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

breadandbits - 24/07/20

Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

G Trieste - 05/02/21

Get a heat gun.

alesha adamson - 09/09/20

I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

Dennis - 31/01/21

I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

cvela90 - 23/06/21

After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

Collins -

It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

Sergey Kofanov -

I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

manningrl -

You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

William Draheim -

Schritt 4

Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.
Der Beutel wird sehr heiß, sei vorsichtig beim Gebrauch. Lege dir am besten einen Topflappen bereit.

I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

Cobus de Beer - 22/07/18

I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

Billinski -

Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

breadandbits - 24/07/20

I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

John - 07/09/20

I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

Robin - 02/10/20

This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

Mark -

If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

Jarl Friis -

Schritt 5

Solltest du keine Mikrowelle haben oder benutzen wollen, folge diesem Schritt, um den iOpener in kochendem Wasser zu erhitzen.
Fülle einen Topf oder eine tiefe Pfanne mit ausreichend Wasser, um den iOpener komplett damit bedecken zu können.
Erhitze das Wasser (ohne den iOpener) bis es kocht. Schalte die Wärmezufuhr (Platte) aus.
Lege den iOpener für etwa 2-3 Minuten in das heiße Wasser. Stelle sicher, dass der iOpener komplett mit Wasser bedeckt ist.
Nimm den iOpener mit einer Küchenzange aus dem Wasser heraus.
Trockne den iOpener gründlich mit einem Küchen- oder Handtuch ab.
Der iOpener speichert die Hitze, und ist daher sehr heiß. Sei vorsichtig, und halte den iOpener nur an den Endlaschen, nicht in der Mitte.
Der iOpener kann jetzt verwendet werden. Solltest du den iOpener erneut erwärmen müssen, erhitze das Wasser nochmal bis zum Siedepunkt, schalte die Wärmezufuhr aus, und lege den iOpener wieder für 2-3 Minuten vollständig in das Wasser.

What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

alexdelarge103@gmail.com -

Use a hair dryer

Edited To the max -

2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

Robert Garcia -

When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

Robert Garcia -

Schritt 6

Platziere den erhitzten iOpener auf der linken langen Kante und lasse ihn etwa 2 Minuten in dieser Position.

Schritt 7

Platziere mittig einen Saugnapf auf der angewärmten Seite.
Achte darauf, dass der Saugnapf komplett auf dem Glas aufliegt.
Halte das iPad mit einer Hand nach unten und ziehe den Saugnapf mit gleichmäßiger Kraft nach oben, um einen Spalt zu erzeugen.
Je nachdem, wie alt dein Gerät ist, kann das Ablösen schwierig sein. Wenn du Probleme hast, erwärme die Stelle noch einmal und versuche es wieder.
Hebe das Glas nur soweit an, dass du ein Opening Pick einführen kannst – je mehr du das Glas öffnest, desto eher kann das Glas Risse bekommen.

Schritt 8

Während du das Display mit dem Saugnapf anhebst, führe ein Opening Pick in die Lücke zwischen dem Glas und dem iPad Gehäuse ein.
Füge das Opening Pick nur etwa 2 mm tief ein. Falls du das Pick zu weit einführst, kannst du das Display, die Hintergrundbeleuchtung oder den Touchscreen beschädigen.

“Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.”

Unfortunately, you only know you have inserted it too far when you have, and you start seeing little bubble veins form between the glass screen and the LCD.

The adhesive can be very stiff/hard, and if pushing through it can result in the pick plunging into the LCD when the adhesive finally gives way.

Take your time, use alot of heat, and if you need to try and push the pick in, try and do so in a slicing motion along the edge, use the wide edge, or hold the pick so that your finger will hit the edge of the screen before the pick tip will pass the bezel.

lucanos - 21/08/18

Adhesive strips are only 1mm wide on sides. Up to 5mm wide top and bottom. I used the Isclack. Screen seemed ok bending without breaking. Worth looking for a photo of the replacement adhesive strips so you know what you have to separate. Be extra careful at the lower right corner where the cables are.

ian cheong - 22/06/19

This is a failure of a guide as it doesn’t tell you to insert at a downward angle so you don’t potrude into the LCD… Now I have to spend more money to replace the screen as I pushed adhesive between the LCD and the screen even though I went no farther than a millimeter short of the screen...

Alec - 17/08/19

can you open the right side if the left is too cracked to use a suction cup on?

clark overhiser - 29/01/20

This guide needs amending urgently.

You MUST NOT put the pick or whatever you are using more than 2mm under the sides of the screen, or you will cut through the adhesive tape securing the backlight assembly to the LCD glass.

This will push adhesive into the viewable area of the LCD and cause the backlight assembly to no longer be secured against the LCD fully.

I now need a new screen.

This line below from the guide is absolutely INCORRECT and will ruin your expensive display:

”Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display.”

The black bezel is 5mm to 6mm wide; you MUST NOT insert anything to that depth or you will destroy your display. 2mm maximum!

jamesqb2001 - 17/03/20

thanks. will take this into account for my repair

Adab Abu - 07/04/21

I too damaged my display because of this absolute nonsense (The German version, which I used, still had this INCORRECT portion in it). I can't believe how long it took iFixit to update this, even though people have been reporting this for years on end. Sadly iFixit still haven't updated a variety of other things that are still at the very least high risk instructions. I just messaged them the other day, but they don't seem to care about or understand the remaining issues that this guide has. At least they updated one of the most severe things, but they just plainly told me 'I'm wrong' about the rest. I liked iFixit it so far, and I've worked on a variety of (difficult) repairs - but this experience was a very huge let down.

Mac Stevenson -

A few thoughts after opening a number of Mini 4’s.

1) if the display is warm enough you can squeeze the digitizer and LCD back together after a minor incursion with the opening pick and it will reseal.

2) I’ve started going in at the top just to the right of the camera (I use an iFlex to get in then switch to a pick). Then I run down either side with my fingers choked up on the pick so there only a mm or 2 sticking out. Usually after running down one side, I can get the display open enough to get the pick in behind the LCD when I do the other side

Stow - 20/01/21

Schritt 9

Erhitze den iOpener erneut, platziere ihn an der gleichen Stelle und lasse ihn ein paar Minuten dort liegen.
Achte darauf, den iOpener während des Reparaturvorgangs nicht zu überhitzen. Warte immer mindestens zwei Minuten, bevor du den iOpener wieder erhitzt.

If your iPad is cold, consider leaving the iOpener on for longer than 5 minutes. The aluminum housing is a very large thermally dissipating mass and will quickly cool off the glass and make you have to start over and wait the 10 minutes to reheat. There’s a very slim window in which you’re able to insert the pick into the glass adhesive before it solidifies once again. I’ve been fighting with it for like 20 minutes following these instructions and it’s not working. You really need to leave it for longer than just 5 minutes to get the back housing hot too.

Crystal S - 26/01/20

Heat is essential. I used a 3d printer’s heated set at 65 degrees. Chris Storer’s stip above saved me as you really need to let it sit for quite a while to soften the adhesive. Since I was doing a battery change, I heated both sides as the aluminum back is a huge heatsink that really sucks up the heat. Don’t try forcing it; if the suction cup isn’t pulling a gap in the screen, leave it on the heater for additional time.

garbage911garbage -

Love the 3d printer idea, I hadn’t thought of that! I have used a heat gun as well but you have to be very careful to not use too much heat. Also watch for inserting the pick too far, it is really easy to delaminate glass from the display!

russ -

Schritt 10

Führe ein zweites Opening Pick neben dem ersten ein und ziehe es vorsichtig nach unten, um die Klebeverbindung des Displays zu lösen.
Wenn du einen großen Widerstand spürst, halte an und erwärme das iPad nochmals mit dem iOpener. Wenn du zu viel Kraft aufwendest, kannst du das Display irreparabel beschädigen.

I have found that wedging a blue pry tool in between the frame and the glass can give you a better edge enough to slide the pick in.

Crystal S - 26/01/20

Schritt 11

Schiebe das Opening Pick weiter an der Seite des Displays herunter, um den Kleber zu lösen.
Falls das Opening Pick im Kleber stecken bleiben sollte, dann "drehe" es die Seite des iPads entlang, um weiterhin den Kleber zu lösen.

Schritt 12

Nimm das erste Plektrum, das du eingesetzt hast, und schiebe es nach oben zur oberen Ecke des iPads.

Schritt 13

Erhitze erneut den iOpener und lege ihn auf die obere Kante des iPads über die Frontkamera.
Achte darauf, den iOpener während der Reparatur nicht zu überhitzen. Warte mindestens zehn Minuten, bevor du den iOpener erneut erhitzt.
Wenn du einen flexiblen iOpener hast, kannst du ihn so umbiegen, dass sowohl die obere linke Ecke als auch die obere Kante gleichzeitig erhitzt werden.

Schritt 14

Schiebe das Opening Pick um die obere linke Ecke des iPads, um den Kleber zu trennen.

Schritt 15

Schiebe das Opening Pick entlang der Oberkante des iPads und halte kurz vor der Kamera an.
Wenn du die Frontkamera erreichst, ziehe das Plektrum etwas heraus und schiebe es weiter an der Oberkante entlang.
Vermeide es, das Plektrum über die Frontkamera zu schieben, da du sonst unter Umständen Kleber auf die Linse schmierst oder die Kamera beschädigst. Die folgenden Schritte erklären genau, wie man es am besten vermeidet, mit der Frontkamera ins Gehege zu kommen.

Schritt 16

Lasse ein Opening Pick kurz nach der Frontkamera im iPad stecken.
Nimm ein zweites Plektrum und setze es links neben der Kamera ein, wo gerade eben das erste Plektrum war. Schiebe es zur Ecke zurück, um jeglichen Kleber vollständig zu lösen.
Lasse das zweite Plektrum an Ort und Stelle, um zu vermeiden, dass sich der Kleber in der Ecke beim Abkühlen wieder verbindet.

Schritt 17

Setze das vorherige Plektrum tiefer in den iPad ein und schiebe es von der Kamera weg zur Ecke.

Schritt 18

Lasse die drei Plektren in den Ecken des iPads stecken, um zu vermeiden, dass sich der Kleber des Frontpanels wieder verbindet.
Erhitze den iOpener erneut und lege ihn auf die übrige lange Seite des iPads entlang der Lautstärke- und Verriegelungstasten.

Schritt 19

Setze ein neues Opening Pick ein und schiebe es entlang der rechten Kante des iPads herunter und trenne so den Kleber auf.

Schritt 20

Schiebe das Opening Pick weiterhin die rechte Kante entlang herunter, falls nötig, erhitze die Kante erneut mit dem iOpener.
Pass auf, das Opening Pick in der Nähe der unteren rechten Ecke nicht zu weit hineinzuschieben, sonst könntest du das Displaykabel beschädigen.

Schritt 21

Lasse die Opening Picks an Ort und Stelle und erhitze den iOpener erneut.
Denke daran, den iOpener nicht zu überhitzen, erhitze ihn nicht mehr als ein Mal alle 10 Minuten.
Lege den erhitzten iOpener auf die Seite mit dem Home Button und lasse ihn dort ein paar Minuten, um den Kleber unter dem Glas aufzuweichen.

Schritt 22

Setze ein neues Opening Pick an der unteren rechten Ecke des Displays ein, und zwar unter dem letzten Opening Pick, das du benutzt hast, um die rechte Kante herunter zu schneiden.
Schiebe das neue Plektrum um die untere rechte Ecke des Gerätes.

Schritt 23

Schiebe das Plektrum von der unteren rechten Ecke an der Unterkante des Gerätes entlang. Halte etwa 1,2 cm kurz vor dem Home Button an.

Schritt 24

Setze ein letztes Opening Pick an der unteren linken Ecke des iPads ein, direkt unter dem bereits vorhandenen Opening Pick.

Schritt 25

Schiebe das Plektrum um die untere linke Ecke des iPads.

Schritt 26

Schiebe das Plektrum weiterhin an der unteren linken Kante des Displays entlang in Richtung Mitte des iPads, bis es ungefähr 1,2 cm vom Home Button entfernt ist.

Schritt 27

Verdrehe die beiden Plektren an der Oberkante des iPads, um den letzten Kleber abzulösen, der das Display befestigt.
Hebe das Display von der Oberkante her ab, um das Gerät zu öffnen.

"Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPadTwist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad "

When I did this twisting motion, and I thought I was being gentle, one of the picks cracked nearly in half. That adhesive is very strong! I probably did not cut into it far enough before applying the twisting to open the screen.

jharrison -

Schritt 28

Halte die Displayeinheit senkrecht zum iPad, bis es getrennt ist, um zu vermeiden, dass irgendwelche Kabel zu sehr überdehnt werden.
Entferne die vier 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben über der Halterung des Akku-/Displaysteckers.

What you need to do is move the display inboard up to the edge area of battery! That will relieve all the stress on the cables. Simply holding it straight up is not enough, especially later when you go back to reconnect the cables and the bracket over the connectors.

Fixrights - 30/04/19

Schritt 29

Entferne die Halterung des Akku-/Displaykabels.

Your bracket may look different to this. Mine had a black covering on the long edge being held between the fingers in this illustration. Same screws, same position, just a different color.

lucanos - 21/08/18

Is it the end of the world if the bracket is not reinstalled, will the device function normally or will it eventually have issues with the connectors coming loose following shock?

Thomas Langford - 31/07/19

Note that the left had side of the bracket hooks under a lip on the edge of the case. Always recommend to replace connector brackets. If you forget and leave it out, best to buy a new set of adhesive strips for the day when the connector comes loose.

cheongi - 27/05/21

Schritt 30

Wenn du irgendwelche Steckverbindungen vom Logic Board löst, dann achte darauf, den Stecker gerade hochzuheben, um zu vermeiden, dass der Anschluss vom Logic Board abgerissen wird.
Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Akkustecker von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu trennen.
Biege das Flachbandkabel des Akkusteckers leicht nach oben, damit es nicht wieder Kontakt bekommt und das iPad einschaltet.

When i was starting to disconnect the lcd to the board i hit the black film and it lit and now even the new display wont display anything how to fix it? The black film near the lcd connector.

tyroon_jul27 - 28/09/19

Schritt 31

Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Stecker des Displaydatenkabels aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.
Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Stecker des Touchscreen-Kabels aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.
Wenn du diese Stecker wieder einsetzt, dann drücke sie von einem Ende her zum anderen fest. Wenn du sie in der Mitte festdrückst, verbiegst du sie unter Umständen, was zu Schäden oder einer schlechten Verbindung führen kann.

Schritt 32

Entferne die Displayeinheit.
Um deine Displayeinheit wieder einzubauen, musst du die Display-Klebestreifen ersetzen. Benutze unsere Anleitung zum Einsetzen von Display-Klebestreifen, um die Display-Klebestreifen anzubringen und das Gerät zu verschließen.

Ich habe eine Bücherstütze benutzt um das Display in senkrechter Position zu halten, während ich die vier Schräubchen gelöst habe.. So zieht man nicht so an den Flexkabeln….!

Fridtjof Schüssler - 10/07/20

Because the 3-piece adhesive strips shown in the Display Adhesive Application Guide link were different from iPad Mini 4 Adhesive Strips (item code IF316-013-1), it wasn't easy to figure out the exact location of the bottom adhesive. It would be helpful to include a separate application guide or an additional picture showing the exact location of each strip) on the guide.

Christian Kim -

Schritt 33

Fahre mit der Spudgerspitze zwischen das geschlungene Klebeband und der Kunststofffassung der Antenne, so dass das Band leichter abgelöst werden kann.

Schritt 34

Ziehe das geschlungene Klebeband ab, welches über der Halterung des oberen Komponentenkabels befestigt ist.

Schritt 35

Entferne folgende vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Halterung der oberen Komponenten befestigt ist:
Zwei 2,1 mm Schrauben
Zwei 1,2 mm Schrauben

Schritt 36

Entferne die Halterung des oberen Komponentenkabels.

Schritt 37

Setze eine aufgebogene Büroklammer oder ein SIM-Auswurfwerkzeug in die Auswerföffnung für die SIM-Karte ein.
Entferne den SIM-Einschub.

Schritt 38

Löse mit dem Spudger das Verbindungskabel der oberen Antenne aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
Hebe den Stecker des Kabels gerade hoch, heble nicht am Anschluss selbst.

Schritt 39

Löse das Verbindungskabel der oberen Antenne vom Logic Board ab.

Schritt 40

Hebe den Stecker der Rückkamera mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
Hebe den Stecker der Sensoren aus seinem Anschluss heraus.
Trenne das Kabel der rechten Mobilantenne vom Logic Board ab.

Schritt 41

Löse den Press-Fit Verbinder der Frontkamera mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers ab.
Hebe das Flachbandkabel der Facetime-Kamera aus dem Weg und löse direkt darunter das Flachbandkabel der Kopfhörerbuchse ab.

Schritt 42

Entferne die 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der das Kabel der Lautstärkeregelung befestigt ist.

Schritt 43

Entferne die Kabelhalterung des Lautstärkereglers.

Schritt 44

Hebe den Stecker am Kabel der Lautstärkeregelung mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board hoch.
Achte darauf, dass du nur den Stecker selbst hochhebelst, nicht den Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

Schritt 45

Löse mit der Spudgerspitze die beiden Verbindungskabel der unteren Antennen.
Hebe die Kabel gerade von der Platine weg, heble nicht an den Anschlüssen auf dem Logic Board.
Das längere Kabel ist im Anschluss nahe dem SIM-Karteneinschub eingesteckt. Das kürzere Kabel ist im Anschluss nahe bei den Steckern der Displaykabel eingesteckt.

Schritt 46

Wenn die ZIF-Verbinder nahe beim Lightninganschluss mit Klebeband bedeckt sind, musst du dieses entfernen.

Schritt 47

Hebe die Sicherungsbügel der beiden ZIF-Verbinder mit der Spudgerspitze hoch.

Schritt 48

Ziehe die Lautsprecherkabel aus den ZIF-Anschlüssen heraus.

Schritt 49

Löse die Verbindungskabel der unteren Antenne aus der Ecke des unteren Gehäuses heraus.

Schritt 50

Hebe das Verbindungskabel der linken Antenne vom Kabel des Lightninganschlusses hoch.

Schritt 51

Entferne die vier 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen der Lightninganschluss am Rückgehäuse befestigt ist.

Schritt 52

Fange an, vorsichtig das Kabel des Lightninganschlusses hochzuheben.

Schritt 53

Trenne mit einem Plektrum die Klebeverbindung zwischen dem Kabel des Lightninganschlusses und dem Gehäuse des iPads auf.
Wenn du mit dem Plektrum zu stark drückst oder abrutscht, kannst du das Kabel des Lightninganschlusses beschädigen.
Wenn es zu schwergängig wird, dann erhitze erneut einen iOpener und lege ihn auf die Rückseite des Gehäuses, um den Kleber zu erwärmen.

Schritt 54

Schiebe das Plektrum weiter unter dem Kabel des Lightninganschlusses bis zum Ende des Logic Boards entlang.
Lasse das Plektrum stecken, damit sich der Kleber nicht wieder verbinden kann.

Schritt 55

Biege den Akkustecker über den Akku zurück, so dass er dem Logic Board nicht im Weg ist.
Sei bei den folgenden Schritten besonders vorsichtig und beschädige keine Kabel.

Be extra careful with the battery connector, it tears the tape holding it very easily

Stow - 30/12/20

Schritt 56

Erhitze erneut den iOpener und lege ihn in der Nähe des SIM-Einschubs für mindestens zwei Minuten auf die Rückseite des iPads.

Schritt 57

Wenn der Kleber weich geworden ist, dann drücke das Plektrum vorsichtig unter das Logic Board.
Sei beim Eindrücken sehr geduldig und sorgfältig; beschädige nicht das Akkukabel, das Antennenkabel oder das Kabel des Lightninganschlusses.

I did three of these today. One LTE and two WIFI. Oddly the WIFI ones seemed to be more heavily glued. Neither of them would come up from the case at this end - I found it easier to get it started at the other end. I could only get a little bit at a time before having to put it back on the separator (hot plate). The one I was saving the logic board from, I took out the battery first t make it easier.

Stow - 30/12/20

Schritt 58

Wenn du mit dem Plektrum eine Ecke des Logic Boards angehoben hast, kannst du eine Plastikkarte unter das Board schieben.
Schiebe die Plastikkarte unter dem Logic Board in Richtung Oberkante bei den Kameras hin.
Wenn der Kleber des Logic Boards zu zäh wird, erwärme erneut den iOpener und lege ihn auf das Rückgehäuse, damit der Kleber wieder weich wird.

Schritt 59

Schiebe eine zweite Plastikkarte unter die erste.
Am einfachsten geht es, wenn du mit einer Ecke der Plastikkarte anfängst und dann die lange Kante unter das Logic Board schiebst.
Schiebe die zweite Plastikkarte bis zur Oberkante des Logic Boards.

Schritt 60

Hebe die Enden der beiden Karten hoch und heble das Logic Board vom Rückgehäuse ab.

Schritt 61

Entferne die Logic Board Einheit vom Rückgehäuse.
Wenn du das Logic Board durch ein Neuteil ersetzt, dann achte darauf, dass Alt- und Ersatzteil wirklich übereinstimmen. Eventuell musst du manche Bauteile übertragen.
Das Logic Board des iPad Mini 4 ist mit dem Home Button gekoppelt. Wenn du das Logic Board austauschst, wird dein iPad die Touch ID Funktion verlieren.

iPad mini 4 LTE Logic Board tauschen

Einleitung

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

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