iPhone 4 Verizon Home Button Replacement

Pra descarregar a bateria, antes de fazer o serviço, isso serve pra qualquer celular?

In my situation, the #00 screwdriver had a hard time trying to get the screws off. Using a glasses screwdriver kit may be a better alternative if the screws are resistant to the #00 screwdriver.

Unfortunately the battery screw was already stripped probably from original assembly. We used a pair of nail clippers as pliers to grab a hold of the screw by the edges to turn it. If it hadn't have been for the stripped screw it would have taken us about 10 minutes, as it was it took us 30-40 minutes if you count searching for solutions for removing the stripped screw.

I don't see the metal clip covering the antenna connector, in the photo or in my phone. Hope this isn't a deal breaker.

I don't see it either. I think the metal clip is on the model A1332. The GSM model.

The adhesive is very strong and I was initially worried about damaging the phone by prying so much. There are a couple of places below the volume switch where you can pry between the metal of the case and the battery. If you lift the battery just a little, wiggle the pry bar further in and then start moving down the case. Don't worry about bending the battery, its dead anyway.

Do not pry on the left side (circuit board side) and do not use the pull tab until the adhesive is broken loose.

I tried this at first with a plastic pry tool, and the adhesive was so strong that I broke the tool. I then used a large screwdriver and applied pressure very slowly along various places on the outer side of the battery. That eventually did the trick.

Careful here...On my phone, the little mounting screw boss (the part the screw threads into) of the top red-circled screw came unglued/welded from the underlying board, meaning the screw will no longer be able to be screwed back in.

The three 1.3 mm screws are very difficult to distinguish from the 1.5 mm screw. I spent a long time with a magnifying glass trying to tell them apart. For the other steps of the repair, I kept the screws in a tray compartment along with the piece that they connected, but for this step I recommend keeping each of the different types of screws separate.

One of the 1.3 screws stripped on the head. Any idea how to remove it? I got the other screws out.

I found it quite easy to remove the camera at this step. Just simply move the camera up and slip it to the left in order for the arm/tab to come out.

When putting the camera back in, make sure the tab on the right goes under the display and digitizer cables.

⚠️ On reassembly, before plugging in the screen/digitizer cables, put the rear facing camera back in. There's a prong on the camera that lays underneath them.

The two verizon phones I've repaired so far both have a phillips screw that screws into the flathead screw that is shown here. The grounding clip is between the phillips and the flathead. So remove the phillips, and then the grounding clip, that will reveal the flathead screw.

Echoing the notes from 'boo' and Corey -- that's exactly what I saw too. Perhaps the guide should be updated?

Can you show how this piece attaches?

This piece broke when i had to drill out stripped screw. Is it important enough to replace it?

For me, aligning the connector when putting things back together was the most difficult part of this repair. Unlike reattachment of the radio antenna in step 11, it is very difficult to see whether the male/female are aligned properly before applying pressure. Unfortunately, I have no secret as to how to accomplish this, other than to say that my WiFi is working after the repair.

can someone tell me what that flap thing is thats right behind the other? also whats its use & how important it is. ( the one thats hidden behind the other)

Now is a good time to remove the gold grounding finger. I used the condiments cups from Wendy's (fast food restaurant) to hold my screws for each step. Hope this helps.

I’d use a Phillips 00 instead of a flathead

When replacing the standoff screw closest to the dock connector, make sure it is tightened all the way down. The battery terminal screw fits in the standoff later, and if the standoff isn't tight (NOT TOO TIGHT!) then the battery will not be completely connected and your phone will power off unless tethered. This mimics a bad logic board symptom! Inspect this before replacing your logic board!

The standoff screws are very difficult to get out unless you have a very tiny (jeweler's) flathead screwdriver, which I lacked. A pocketknife did work, however.

This is correct, and if you look closely the rubber piece has a "thick" and "thin" side. The "thin" side should be facing "up" on logic board (towards back cover) while the "thick" is pointed "down" (towards screen)

It shouldn't matter. If on top, it will still be grounded through the screw. I've done both without any problems.

What happens if you accidentally lose this piece or when putting it back together it shoots somewhere

For the record.... This thing was really REALLY stuck with adhesive when I removed it. Surprised I am the first to comment on this.

Make sure to align the hole on the vibrator to the hole on the frame for the screw that will attach the logic board.

My plastic corner bracket actually came out with the screw, so be aware this can happen

Be careful not to lose the black plastic triangle spacer (roughly the same shape as the one you removed in step 25, just thicker). This spacer can be seen in the first picture (step 26) in the lower left hand corner near the palm. It goes under the metal.

I can't find where the wifi grounding fingers go when reassembling. The picture isn't very helpful. Any ideas?

These Wi-Fi grounding fingers should be distinguished in the image that accompanies the instructions to show their location to ensure their identification to be cleaned and to be in the proper position upon reassembly. If I guess correctly, there is one by the screw on the left, two below the thumbnail in the image and a fourth that is blocked from view in the image by the logic board.

This isn't particularly easy. Maybe it's the screwdriver I have, but I can't seem to reach these corner screws.

No the problem is that you should probably remove the audio Jack. There is NO way you can unscrew that screw without stripping it without taking the audio jack out.

Nearly impossible to reinstall this screw when reassembling.

I was able to perform this step on my first repair attempt. Here's a tip: the rounded part of the headphone cable is very stiff and "spring" like. Just take a very thin Philips (#000) screwdriver and lay it down on the cable diagonally, pointing almost directly towards the screw. Push gently down on the cable and it will cave in somewhat. This is fine. Then you can go straight in at the screw and turn it out.

Photograph: http://i.imgur.com/wKigI.jpg

Thank you Bradley. I've had tons of grief with this screw in the past. I've just had to turn the driver at an angle and curse and yell and retry it 5 times before it worked. This is a MUCH better approach! I had no idea that cable safely had that much give. You have my gratitude.

I stripped this screw. Any suggestions on how to get it out?

You need a smaller screwdriver. One in my kit was too big spinning out the heads. Can also touch each screw with soldering iron if locktite is holding it but probably driver as they all came with the right driver.

I found removing the three screws on one side during reassembly made it easier to keep the washers on the opposite side in the correct position when installing the display. When the display is in place, reinstall the three screws and then snug down all six. Then back all off about a quarter to a half turn to assist in aligning the holes for the four corner screws. Only after all ten screws are in place should the screws be tightened. Be sure to gently squeeze the display down to the outer frame at each screw while tightening to eliminate any gaps between the two.

That one corner screw is at the wrong angle what a pain stripping out the head of my driver/screw!

Remember to take the earpiece screen off the old lcd and put it on the new screen. Most replacements do not include this mesh screen.

DEFINITELY REMEMBER THE ABOVE ADVICE TO TRANSFER THE METAL MESH SCREEN FROM THE OLD SCREEN TO THE NEW ONE.

I've done this twice now, and it really, really stinks because you don't usually see it until the phone is all back together. That would mean doing the whole process again. Slapped myself in the forehead the second time.

Thank you so much for this easy to follow guide, but it's so good I don't usually look at the comments. Maybe this last little thing could be added.

Either way, Thanks Again.

took me about 2 hours to succesfully complete the entirety of this replacement. Although the hardest part is putting the screws back into their respective holes. And it does help to read the comments after reviewing the guide as well. It wasn't until I had the customer's phone completely back together that I realized that earpiece grill wasn't there on the new screen.. nevertheless.. Thank You to my favorite repair website for the easy to follow guides.

Nope. Broke the Home button cable at this point, because the button stuck to the display during separation.

When I put it all bck together the phone itself comes on but the screen won't come on... did I do something wrong?

The plastic tool is too large and cumbersome. I just destroyed the connector. Now What!

The socket came off with cable. There's no indaction it was glued on, and it fits up like a puzzle piece. What do I do now?

There is no mention as to what to do with the rubber gasket that was adhered to the front panel. If I leave it as it is, it obscures the button function in the aperture. It's not obvious, so I guess I'm leaving it out.