iPhone 5c Home Button Flachbandkabel austauschen

Geschrieben von: Walter Galan
  • Kommentare: 56
iPhone 5c Home Button Flachbandkabel austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

19

Zeitaufwand

30 - 45 Minuten

Einleitung

Verwende diese Anleitung, um das Home Button Flachbandkabel zu ersetzen, das den mechanischen Home Button enthält. Folge dieser Anleitung, um die Plastikabdeckung des Home Buttons auszutauschen.

  1. VYrlIHWoVCvROCtv
    VYrlIHWoVCvROCtv
    1eABkFb5UtS3vH2V
    va2324iyDLI1hLrr

    • Falls dein Displayglas gesprungen ist, halte die Bruchstelle zusammen und vermeide Verletzungen, indem du das Glas mit Tape versiehst.

    • Lege sich überlagernde Streifen von durchsichtigem Paketband über das iPhone Display, bis die gesamte Vorderseite bedeckt ist.

    • Dies hält Glasscherben zusammen und erzeugt eine glattere Oberfläche für mehr Haftung. So lässt sich das Display besser vom Rückgehäuse lösen.

    • Trage eine Schutzbrille, um deine Augen vor Splittern, die sich während des Reparaturvorgangs lösen können, zu schützen.

  2. Xv5DfoyXmZg1sWi6

    • Entleere deinen Akku auf unter 25% Ladung, bevor du weitermachst. Das minimiert das Risiko eines gefährlichen Thermischen Durchgehens (Selbstentzündung) für den Fall, dass du den Akku beschädigst.

    • Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du mit der Demontage beginnst.

    • Entferne die zwei 3,8 mm P2 Pentalobe Schrauben auf beiden Seiten des Lightning Connectors.

    to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

    V. Jones -

    I found that these screws did not remove easily. After turning several times and feeling the threads drop back, indicating they were loose, the heads did not extend far enough to grip with my fingernails to pull out. I had to use the tweezers and then it took a bit more force than expected to remove them.

    Jim Thomas -

    My iPhone 5c has P1 Pentalobe screws, not P2. This guide caused me to buy wrong tools so I thought I would share my experience. Perhaps they vary.

    Cody Craven -

    @codycraven01 These guides are created using iFixit tools, and P2 is definitely the correct driver. If you’re using tools you bought somewhere else, then yes, results may vary.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  3. xERn2y6yJNuWha16
    xERn2y6yJNuWha16
    lMymguQBv1qILyBA
    KMGtB2eyMoBmZadB

    • Die nächsten zwei Schritte zeigen, wie man den iSclack verwendet. Ein großartiges Werkzeug, um das iPhone 5c sicher zu öffnen, das wir jedem empfehlen, der mehr als eine Reparatur durchführen will. Wenn du den iSclack nicht verwendest, gehe weiter zu Schritt 5.

    • Schließe den Handgriff des iSclacks, wodurch sich die Saugnäpfehalter öffnen.

    • Platziere das Unterteil deines iPhone zwischen den Saugnäpfen gegen den Tiefenbegrenzer aus Kunststoff.

    • Der obere Saugnapf sollte sich gerade über dem Home Button befinden.

    • Öffne den Handgriff, um die Halter des iSclacks zu schließen. Platziere die Saugnäpfe mittig und drücke sie fest gegen die Ober- und Unterseite des iPhones.

    I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.

    V. Jones -

    Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!

    Michael W Mason -

    @mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  4. WOeIx1WmUBNOlZrf
    WOeIx1WmUBNOlZrf
    su1pT12cMyFqaOQm

    • Umfasse dein iPhone mit festem Griff und schließe den Handgriff deines iSclacks, um die Saugnäpfe auseinanderzubringen und dadurch die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen.

    • Der iSclack ist dazu entwickelt, dein iPhone sicher zu öffnen und zwar gerade soweit, um die Teile voneinander zu trennen, aber nicht weit genug, um das Home Button Kabel zu beschädigen.

    • Löse die beiden Saugnäpfe von deinem iPhone.

    • Überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte und fahre mit Schritt 8 fort.

  5. XHnUNSSGKEvpVnU1

    • Presse einen Saugnapf auf das Display, direkt über dem Home Button.

    • Vergewissere dich, dass der Saugnapf vollständig auf dem Display aufliegt, um eine gute Haftung zu erzeugen.

    cool i diden't now

    Ben Lewis Murray Dyne -

    very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

    bromanmoon -

  6. cwrAGc6vCenFYWN3
    cwrAGc6vCenFYWN3
    IMDMhyjuDbcaR3LS

    • Vergewissere dich, dass der Saugnapf fest an der Display Einheit angebracht ist.

    • Während du das iPhone mit einer Hand unten hältst, ziehe an dem Saugnapf, um das Display etwas vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen.

    • Nimm dir Zeit und übe einen konstant kräftigen Zug aus. Die Display Einheit ist um einiges fester eingepasst, als bei den meisten Geräten.

    • Heble mithilfe eines Plastik Opening Tools die Kanten des hinteren Gehäuses vorsichtig nach unten, weg von der Display Einheit, während du mit dem Saugnapf nach oben ziehst.

    • Die Display Einheit ist mit einigen Clips am hinteren Gehäuse befestigt, weshalb du einen Saugnapf und ein Plastik Opening Tool gleichzeitig verwenden musst, um es freizulegen.

    Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

    Dan -

    Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

    duston -

    The pry point in this photo is spot on. Just be gentle and maybe come in at a little steeper angle.

    V. Jones -

    This part ended up being really easy for me. I applied the suction cup just as the picture shows and pulled slowly almost straight up; the screen came off very easily and I didn’t even need to use a plastic prying tool. Not sure why it worked so well but I’m glad!

    Renee -

    I did it with a guitar pick and no suction cup.

    andrew -

    Be sure not to use metal pry tools as they may crack the plastic.

    guardian10 -

  7. 6KyOlHfXtgArBAJK

    • Ziehe an an der Kunststoffnoppe, um das Vakuum des Saugnapfs zu lösen.

    • Entferne den Saugnapf von der Display Einheit.

  8. vKtIdJSxo3UwYEkb
    vKtIdJSxo3UwYEkb
    cHU2jA25nCYbiENj

    • Hebe das Ende der Display Einheit mit dem Home Button nach oben, um Zugang zu den Steckverbindungen nahe dem oberen Teil des Gerätes zu bekommen.

    • Öffne das Display bis zu einem 90°-Winkel und lehne es gegen einen festen Gegenstand, um es beim Arbeiten in dieser Position zu halten.

    • Als Trick kannst du eine ungeöffnete Getränkedose als Halterung verwenden.

    • Ein Gummiband könnte hilfreich sein, um es in dieser Position zu halten und sicherzustellen, dass die Displaykabel nicht beschädigt werden.

    Using a can works really well!

    Amy Dachs -

    I use an old iPhone box to support the open phone. Set the box up on its end, and rubber band the screen side to the box. It works perfectly!

    Travis Henrick -

    What do I do if it’s a little sticky and dirty inside?

    sunnydsunset2014 -

  9. FUNrlk2XodafiFam

    • Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schrauben, die die Metallabdeckung über dem Akkuanschluss auf dem Logic Board befestigen.

    These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

    Joe Shirghio -

    I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?

    Michael Allen -

    Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s a relatively junky phone, so if it breaks, what the heck. I’m not going to disconnect the battery.

    Zachariah Sampson -

  10. AZqpqTXJirwDUGMH

    • Entferne die Metallabdeckung aus deinem iPhone.

  11. NEPbgAmVUum1rVFK

    • Heble den Akkustecker mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    • Heble vorsichtig nur an dem Akkustecker selbst und nicht am Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du am Anschluss auf dem Logic Board hebelst, kannst du den Anschluss irreparabel beschädigen oder andere Komponenten auf dem Logic Board beschädigen.

    Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

    Jona Wolff -

    Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.

    Peter Hill -

  12. EatmksNkeKvAiRSl

    • Entferne die folgenden Kreuzschlitz #000 Schrauben, die die Abdeckung der Displaykabel am Logic Board befestigen:

    • Zwei 1,3 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 1,7 mm Schraube

    • Eine 3,25 mm Schraube

    • Es ist besonders wichtig, beim Wiederzusammenbau die Reihenfolge der Schrauben zu beachten. Beim versehentlichen Verwenden der 1,3 mm Schraube oder der 1,7 mm Schrauben im rechten unteren Loch wird ein beträchtlicher Schaden am Logic Board verursacht, der dazu führt, dass das Telefon nicht länger einwandfrei bootet.

    • Pass auf, dass du die Schrauben nicht zu fest anziehst. Wenn sie sich nicht leicht reindrehen lassen, hast du vielleicht die falsche Größe erwischt.

    I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

    jacobstevens -

    I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

    Fredrick Apel -

    I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly

    K Jansen -

    good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).

    travismlive -

    When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?

    Chandler Perez -

    no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.

    akronymus -

    did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.

    matt -

    Agree. Step 12 is unnecessary if one is extremely careful.

    Christopher -

    *warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.

    akronymus -

    is it necessary to remove these screws in order to remove the battery?

    Ali Ahsan -

    Hi Ali,

    You can choose to not remove those screws and still be able to take the battery out. Be very careful supporting the display, or you may tear the display cables and damage your screen.

    Arthur Shi -

  13. 5udEbou5MhKQgGLx

    • Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel vom Logic Board.

  14. cfPJNfn22tDmHBRw
    cfPJNfn22tDmHBRw
    agMMqhHwYglJLPIO

    • Benutze ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug oder deinen Fingernagel, um die Frontkamera und das Sensorkabel zu trennen.

    • Achte darauf, nur an dem Anschluss zu hebeln und nicht an der Fassung auf dem Logic Board.

    You might get a more “modernised” part from eBay (for this very model, iPhone 5c) which has an ENTIRE CABLE missing… if you look closely, it’s been re-directed into the middle cable. And it all works perfectly, touch screen, and display. So it’s a optimisation.

    In summary - if you get this version of the screen, you only need to deal with 2 cables, not 3. The rightmost socket will remain empty.

    domarius -

  15. 5KqiUdRoZqGo35AI
    5KqiUdRoZqGo35AI
    6jBdCBmLR3jhSWQU
    QQnPeceUnEnhMiFp

    • Achte darauf, dass der Akku nicht mehr angeschlossen ist, bevor du in diesem Schritt die Kabel ablöst oder wieder anschließt.

    • Trenne das Digitizer Kabel mit einem Plastik Opening Tool oder dem Fingernagel.

    • LCD und Digitizer Anschlüsse sind an der selben Kabeleinheit. Deshalb sollten beim Hebeln am Digitizer Anschluss beide Anschlüssen getrennt werden. Überprüfe, ob beide Kabel vollständig getrennt sind, bevor du das Display entfernst.

    • Beim Wiederzusammenbau deines Telefons kann das LCD Kabel aus dem Anschluss springen. Dies kann in weißen Linien oder einem schwarzen Display resultieren, wenn du dein Telefon einschaltest. Wenn das passiert, verbinde das Kabel einfach erneut und führe einen Power Cycle Vorgang durch. Am besten ist es, den Akku zu trennen und wieder zu verbinden.

    I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

    Harold Wallner -

    This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

    vince -

    Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.

    terrymccallum -

    There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

    Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

    Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

    Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

    Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

    Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

    Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

    piet -

    Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

    duston -

    When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.

    The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.

    jimbbo -

    If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

    iBroke -

    I replaced the display assembly to resolve an issue with the phone not responding to any touch input. I assumed it was a bad digitizer. However, I have the same problem with the new display assembly—no touch response at all. The phone starts up fine and the screen works, I just can’t “slide to unlock”. This is also preventing me from downloading photos from the phone since I can’t enter the passcode. I have cleaned the connections and reseated the cables. Is it possible this is a problem on the logic board? If so, is there any way to get the photos off the phone since I can’t enter the passcode on the screen?

    ewistey -

  16. M6gALffrHQhYHgx1

    • Entferne die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse.

    Very clear and percise.

    Jessica Fader -

  17. SmVbRwuJDGsP1AJ4

    • Entferne die beiden 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, welche die Home Button Abdeckung am Display befestigen.

    Ok the screw are just the 2 highlighted in red. Note that if you fix them too tight the button will lose some space. I suggest to fix them tight and then to unscrew them of 180° just to remove some pressure. Then try the home button movement: if it’s ok go ahead otherwise if it has no freedom to move unscrew again a little bit

    Francesco Garuti -

  18. MFiW1D2EkNh442vI
    MFiW1D2EkNh442vI
    5EUWNBNrvSrKn5ZH

    • Heble mit einem Plastik Opening Tool den Rand des Home Button Flachbandkabels weg vom Display.

    • Beginne rechts im Bereich des Flachbandkabels zwischen den goldenen Kontaktpunkten und arbeite dich nach links vor.

    • Wenn du von links nach rechts gehst, kann dein Flachbandkabel reißen, da die Kontakte stark am Display befestigt sind.

    • Wenn du Probleme hast, mit dem Plastik Opening Tool unter die Kontaktstellen zu gelangen, drehe das Werkzeug um, drücke vorsichtig gegen die rechte Seite der Kontakte, um den Kleber zu lösen und versuche es dann erneut.

    If you have an iOpener, I STRONGLY suggest placing it on top to loosen the glue. Once I heated the surface, it came off with little difficulty.

    Curt Veenstra -

    Achtung! Am oberen linken Eck bei den orangenen Kontakten sitzen zwei winzige elektronische Bauteile. Diese können bei unvorsichtiger Arbeit und falls das Kabel sehr fest sitzt abbrechen. Sie sind mit ein bisschen Kleber abgedeckt.

    iRolleder -

  19. HPpDunlxR2dXyLtZ

    • Entferne das Home Button Flachbandkabel vom Display.

    • Wenn du ein neues Flachbandkabel installierst, achte darauf die Metallabdeckung über dem neuen Flachbandkabel zu befestigen.

    Wenn der Home Button nach dem Austausch immer noch nicht funktioniert, sollte man sich die beiden kleinen Kontakte anschauen, die auf der Platine an einem Flachbandkabel sind und auf die in dieser Anleitung zu sehenden messingfarbenen Kontakte drücken. Ist einer dieser beiden Kontakte defekt, muss man den Lightning Anschluss ersetzen. Kostet zwar unter 5€, ist aber ziemlich aufwändig, da der Akku ausgebaut werden muss.

    Skyynet -

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

Tinte & Feder

Walter Galan

685541 Reputation

7 Kommentare

Good instructions; I did managed to disconnect the lcd connector, but easy enough to pop back in again. No luck on getting my home button to work though - maybe the button was the thing that needed replacing.

bairandrea -

This guide should be named "How To Remove The Home Button Ribbon Cable". Saying that this guide is "How To Replace..." is misleading because there are no steps that show how to install a new home button which should include how to reinstall the cable while reapplying soft adhesive. Also, steps 9-16 are not relevant to this guide. Looks like the repair tech and the web developer need to talk to each other. The web developer should have required the tech to perform a dry run of the steps posted which is a standard web development process.

jjovanw -

As stated in the guide conclusion, installation/replacement is the reverse of removal. The replacement ribbon cable will already have the adhesive applied; there's no need to overcomplicate things with additional steps. Steps 9-11 are for disconnecting the battery, which is standard procedure for working on consumer electronics. Steps 12-16 can be skipped if you are comfortable working on the home button while the display is still attached, but you risk damaging your display ribbon cables if you're not careful, turning a $15 repair into a $75 repair.

Jeff Suovanen -

The ribbon I received has a small white piece of paper on it. Do I have to remove that to get to the adhesive ?

neil campbell -

Yes, you have to remove the piece of paper or plastic to install the new cable.

Skyynet -

in step 18 there is a screw attached to the metal back plate in the picture to the right top of the home button ribbon cable. In picture 19 it is not shown. does this need to be removed also?

Carl Gulick -

@cfgjm1 It’s not related to replacing the home button components, so if that’s all you’re doing you can leave it alone. The screw didn’t go anywhere BTW—it’s just blocked from view by the home button cable in Step 19.

Jeff Suovanen -