iPhone 5c Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher austauschen

to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

I found that these screws did not remove easily. After turning several times and feeling the threads drop back, indicating they were loose, the heads did not extend far enough to grip with my fingernails to pull out. I had to use the tweezers and then it took a bit more force than expected to remove them.

I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.

cool i diden't now

very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

The pry point in this photo is spot on. Just be gentle and maybe come in at a little steeper angle.

This part ended up being really easy for me. I applied the suction cup just as the picture shows and pulled slowly almost straight up; the screen came off very easily and I didn’t even need to use a plastic prying tool. Not sure why it worked so well but I’m glad!

Using a can works really well!

I use an old iPhone box to support the open phone. Set the box up on its end, and rubber band the screen side to the box. It works perfectly!

What do I do if it’s a little sticky and dirty inside?

These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

It’s a relatively junky phone, so if it breaks, what the heck. I’m not going to disconnect the battery.

Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.

I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

You might get a more “modernised” part from eBay (for this very model, iPhone 5c) which has an ENTIRE CABLE missing… if you look closely, it’s been re-directed into the middle cable. And it all works perfectly, touch screen, and display. So it’s a optimisation.

In summary - if you get this version of the screen, you only need to deal with 2 cables, not 3. The rightmost socket will remain empty.

Very clear and percise.

When putting the 4.2mm screw back in don't screw until it gets to tight to screw any more otherwise you will strip the screw and put a hole in the screen probably cracking it screw it in just enough so that the microphone is held in

I purchased the complete screen so I stopped at this point but with my surprise the part from Ifixit was slightly different from the original: just on the left of the square microphone there was an added contact for grounding which does not exist in the original screen. I was afraid this could avoid the screen to bw put in place but at the end I was successfull in any case so… don’t panic: if the screen from Ifixit has this small little finger for grounding it can be mounted with no problem!

Be gentle with the speaker bracket, there are 2 small parts at the top of it which bend rather easily.

It's hooked at the top so slide the bracket straight to the right before lifting up.

What’s not mentioned is there is a little arm on that bracket - so as you should slide it to the right to remove it, you also have to slide it left as you put it back in. If you don’t, it doesn’t sit properly, and when you screw in the 4.2mm screw, the bracket will buckle inwards. That’s how you know it’s not inserted properly.

Not the first my try of disassembling and reassembling 5c using this manual. Just fixed my earpiece speaker, this time took only 20 min! Thanks!