iPhone 6s LCD und Touchscreen ersetzen

Make sure you use the correct screw driver tip to remove these screws, which for the iPhone 6s Plus is the P2, otherwise you may strip the tip of the screw making it 10 times harder to remove. If once the screw is lose, it will not come off, use a magnet to remove it.

I had issues getting the suction cup to stick on my cracked screen, so I tried using scotch tape (only tape I had around), but it didn’t work. This best thing I did was to forcefully pry the screen off (I wasn’t worried about damages because it’s already cracked) with the spudger. I think its best to find something stickier (like Duct Tape) and used that to lift up the screen.

Definitely surprised how sticky the adhesive was.

When using packing tape: the suction won’t hold well with the overlapping pieces, so add a square of tape where you want to put the suction cup, so it will provide an unbroken surface for the seal.

This is important. I’ve serviced a lot of iphones/ipads for my family as a hobby in the past.

The adhesive was so tight, I cracked the screen trying to pull it/pry it off.

I highly suggest heating at least the bottom edge enough to soften the adhesive

I didn’t have an iOpener, nor a heat gun; however I do have a small personal size hand pillow filled with feed corn. Two minutes in the nuke machine got it plenty warm, and smelled like fresh popcorn too.

I would suggest that you are not shy with the hairdryer. A high heat on the bottom of the phone for at least a minute, if not more, if required.

take out screws first!!

Make sure you use the right screw driver tip for i phone 6s Plus, which is the P-2. If the screw will not come off once is lose, try using a magnet.

My cracked screen prevented the suction cup from sealing. SOLUTION: With a piece of clear packing tape across the screen, the suction cup will seal and pull.

I used a suction cup on each side to provide counter traction. I braced the iphone between my knees and pulled apart while my helper inserted the spudger

This was by FAR the most difficult part of this whole thing. I confess the spudger was not cutting it so I used a butter knife to get into the small opening first, then used the spudger to go around the screen.

This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

When warmed, the suction cup was useless. Using the tip of a knife blade, was able to get it separated enough to insert spudger.

For me this was the most time consuming task. I used a hair dryer for heating. I found a very tight adhesive. For a moment I thought of abandoning my efforts and take the assembly to a professional repairman. But as they say, patience is a virtue.

After fiddling for about 20 minutes, I achieved a barely noticable opening. So I decided to change the strategy. Instead of applying heat all over the base, I preceeded with small steps with heat concentrated near the opening. I applied intense heat only for about 15 to 20 seconds and immediately working with spudger. It took about an hour to completely open the case. It worked.

Thanks for reading.

- Mr Gamma

just changed the screen, but due to the tape along side the screen , it is best to heat a little so the glue losses and you can get the screen off better, like indicated

if the display cables are damaged how can you tell ?

In theory, I like the idea of propping up the screen with a rubber band and box/soda can like this, but after ripping the FaceTime camera cable twice, I realize that this method puts too much stress on the cable because it places the screen so far back. Even in this photo, you can see that the cable is taut. I’d recommend just holding the screen with your free hand to put the least amount of stress on that cable as possible.

FYI - I used some blue painters tape wrapped around a piece of cardboard to hold the screws and brackets in place, in order, so they did not get lost. Some of those screws are MICROSCOPIC so be careful!

I also suggest having very good lighting, even a camping headlight for hands-free well lit work space. You will thank me later :-)

Use the bit labeled “PH000”.

PH000 bit just wants to free-spin in the 2.3 mm screw. no bite in the head at all. had no difficulty removing the 2.9 mm screw with the same Phillips. had to abandon battery replacement effort.

Does it matter if the brackets arent put back in the phone? I bought a used phone and brackets are missing. Thanks!

My bracket actually has a black wire connected on the underside that is attached to the metal bracket (with screw) below it in the picture. I decided to leave it on and just move it to the side.

When putting the new battery in, make sure to line up the plug and not to the top of the battery… our battery was smaller so the plug would NOT have lined up if we used the top of the battery. ALSO, the plug was NOT 90 degrees so we had to finagle the plug. Also, make sure there is a clear CLICK when you plug in the connector or it may not work. Ours went in but guess didn’t go far enough so we had to take the screen off and push it harder until we heard the “click” then it worked fine.

I just changed my battery and also left the screen attached. I was lucky enough to get all 3 adhesive battery strips out clean so I didn’t have a struggle with the battery coming out. If I was going to need to get rough with it I was going to take the screen off at that point.

Be careful on this step: with my iPhone, one of the connectors (the home button/fingerprint sensor) was stuck to the underside of the bracket and I almost strained its cable.

FYI, in the video she uses the spudger for this but I think either one will work.

I found prying from the right to be better

Is there any need for this step if only the Battery is replaced

Thanks you i fix it

“When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. “

The following note above was so helpful. I was speeding through the process of getting things back together, since it seemed easy to connect the digitizer cable, but I kept pushing it in the middle and I wouldn’t connect. Until I read through this step and realized it was easier if I would’ve connected one side and then the opposite side right after.

Don’t be too shy when pushing the ends of the digitizer connector back to place. If it does not connect properly, you might face the “half backlight” problem, even if you did not kill any LCD filter. Also check carefully, that you don’t clamp parts of the sticky sealing material placed around the connector inside the connection area.

How much is this to replace?

And where could I buy from?

You can buy these at iFixit: iPhone 6s LCD and Digitizer - Original LCD

For instructions on home button swap out to the new screen you just installed, go here

iPhone 6s Plus Home Button Einheit ersetzen

If you have a replacement adhesive for the display, you may need to install it before reconnecting cables to the components. If the adhesive wraps all the way around the display, it will be impossible to install it once the display is reconnected.

Maybe this should be totally obvious, but it took me a minute or two to realize that this step is performed on the DISPLAY ASSEMBLY that was just removed, rather than the main body of the phone, which is the part on which all the previous steps were performed.

The new display came with a 1.9mm screw installed (the top left one above). This must be removed before putting back the home button bracket. It took me way too long to realize why I couldn’t thread the old screw back into the hole.

My home is wiggley I do not like it

can you put home button adhesive

Gently: this piece is attached to the plastic cabling, not the surface of the phone

“The gasket is very thin and will tear easily. Apply steady pressure and give it time to separate. “

The note above was very helpful. It really is thin and for one second I thought I punctured a whole through it, so be careful.

I did this on 2 separate phones. The first time, I did it according to directions, and it worked well. However, the adhesive pulled off in the process. On the 2nd phone I used a handwarmer to slightly warm the home button area. (I think an iOpener would work best, but I didn’t have one on hand). With the constant pressure after being heated, the home button assembly came off easily, and the adhesive stayed in place. I’ll definitely use slight heat in the future for this step as it seems to lessen the possibility of damaging the assembly.

I would have liked to see the heating instructions on this page. I only saw it once I re-watched the video as I was having trouble getting the button out. iFixit would have made another sale had it been obvious that the heating pad would come in handy. I ended up using a microwave heating pad instead. Worked fine.

Make sure you remove any broken glass from around the button edges. Took me a few times to realize it had some glass on it.

I could not believe how EASY this was to repair my phone! Granted, it took me awhile (2 hrs) to replace a camera and a screen, but I was probably overly meticulous about each step, especially making sure the old adhesive was fully removed and the frame was clean. I can imagine, with tolerances being as tight as they are — I could barely see some of the screws! — the slightest lump of glue might have made a smooth placement difficult. But, in the end, it was worth it! Screen looks and works awesome, and so does my camera!

Huge props to you for this detailed guide! Very easy to follow and flawless result! Thank you!

does the home button work after you put it on the new repaired phone?

Getting this assembly back in place was the most frustrating part of the entire reassembly. The preformed cables kept moving the sensors out of their sockets and making reassembly impossible. A little patient work using the spudger to hold things in place with one hand while placing the speaker and camera lens with the other got things reinstalled.

I’m pretty sure I made a mistake at this point by applying a heat gun to soften the tacky adhesive. I suspect that the molded plastic lens on the camera became hot and the antireflective coating on it cracked all over. Under a microscope it looks messed up. The result is that the camera is now blurry. So be careful with applying heat.

Attention, au remontage trier les deux nappes horizontales pour que la nappe la plus large soit dessous.

Brancher d’abord la nappe verticale latérale puis la nappe horizontale haute et enfin la nappe horizontale basse.

The replacement sensor comes with one of the sensor connectors covered with another plug. So if the connector doesn't want to fit, you can remove the outer connector adapter and then connect using the inner connector. Also, I installed this along with a new battery to fix the proximity sensor not working when making a call. Well, this didn't fix it either. So I suspect it's an OS issue, but I'm not about to upgrade a 7-year old phone. It is what it is!

On the iphone 6s (not plus)the recessed screw is different to the other 6. The screw head is smaller.

So, this guide is garbage right here. There is no mentioning the home button connector, wich holds the bottom of the EMI shield in place. You can not remove the shield if this is not loosened. You also need to heat it or the cable will break. I now have to buy a new heat shield since my cable broke thanks to this guide