iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board austauschen

Geschrieben von: Jeff Suovanen

Kommentare: 143

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

40 Minuten - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt dir, wie du ein defektes Logic Board an deinem iPhone 7 Plus ersetzen oder austauschen kannst.

Es ist wichtig zu wissen, dass jedes Logic Board mit einem entsprechenden Fingerabdrucksensor ab Werk gepaart ist. Nach dem Austausch des Logic Boards funktioniert der Sensor deshalb nicht mehr, es sei denn du hast einen Ersatz Home Button/Fingerabdrucksensor, der mit deinem neuen Logic Board gepaart ist.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Schritt 1

Vor dem Beginn sollte der Ladestand des iPhones unter 25% liegen. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen Akku kann bei Beschädigung brennen oder explodieren.
Schalte das iPhone aus, bevor du es auseinandernimmst.
Entferne die zwei 3,4 mm Pentalobe Schrauben an der Unterseite des iPhones.
Nach dem Öffnen des Gerätes ist das iPhone nicht mehr wasserdicht. Halte Ersatzdichtungen bereit, oder sei nach der Reparatur extra vorsichtig, wenn dein iPhone Flüssigkeiten ausgesetzt ist.

The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

pargoff - 14/04/17

The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

Jeff Suovanen - 04/05/17

@jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

Ben Meinhart - 13/09/17

Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

Vanessa Pinter - 14/08/18

How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

adam - 18/10/18

The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

lkollar - 08/08/19

Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Austausch der iPhone Display Klebestreifen

bester - 05/10/20

I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.

Charles Meitin - 06/05/21

Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.

My favourites are:

Use a hot water bottle.

Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.

Test the lightning assembly at step 13

There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.

etc...

Neil Eriksen -

A tip for looking out for all those little screws. I used an ice block tray, for all the little screws etc. I numbered each with the step number, as in the instructions, but not all steps have bits to look out for. Where two different size screws are used I had a tray for each size and marked step a and step b. For this I coloured each tray sticker with the colour of the screw as shown in the instructions. All this worked a treat with no confusion or using the wrong part.

Herb

Herb Adler -

Schritt 2

Durch Erwärmen der unteren Kante des iPhones wird der Displaykleber weich und lässt sich leichter ablösen.
Lege einen heißen iOpener eine Minute lang auf die untere Kante des iPhones oder benutze einen Haartrockner, um den Kleber darunter weich zu machen.

How long should I use a hairdryer for?

Warren Binder - 20/05/18

I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.

gczarny - 20/05/18

Hey, I just took apart my first iPhone 7 plus today, and it was easier for me to use guitar picks and a magic glass tool. I did tear the home flex on the screen—now I know to be more careful of that on disassembly—-~Katrina of iPad Rehab Microsoldering

jessabethany - 24/06/19

First I tried to remove the screen with the hot iOpener, but it doesn’t worked, the day after I putted the Iphone in the sun for a while and then used the hot iOpener, then the screen was easy to remove :-)

Marc Boon - 24/08/19

Get a T-shirt add heat to a lil corner of it, with either a hair straighter or an Iron , touch the T-shirt if it’s seems hot but doesn’t burn u hold that lil hot piece of T-shirt against the edge ur trying to pry open , if it’s still not opening add a I’ll more heat,

www.tertlegerl - 24/09/19

I don’t think the iOpener was effective at softening the adhesive. Using a suction cup and the spudger is good enough.

Mac - 29/10/20

I took a hot water bottle and layed it on the display of the iPhone for a minute, because I did not have an iOpener. That worked for me perfect.

Michael Maier - 25/02/21

How can I get all this tools

Ajibol emmanuel -

Schritt 3

Setze einen Saugnapf auf die untere Hälfte des Displays, knapp über dem Home-Button.
Achte darauf, dass der Saugnapf nicht auf dem Home-Button aufliegt. Dies würde verhindern, dass sich ein Vakuum zwischen dem Saugnapf und dem Glas bildet.
Wenn die Scheibe stark zerbrochen ist, haftet der Saugheber möglicherweise nicht gut. Klebe eine Schicht durchsichtigen Klebebands darüber, dann hält er besser. Du kannst auch sehr starkes Klebeband anstatt eines Saughebers verwenden. Wenn das alles nicht klappt, dann klebe den Saugheber mit Sekundenkleber an der Scheibe fest.

Hi! My suction cup doesn’t work. It won’t strongly suck on my screen. Does anyone have any advice?

kaiminliu119 - 14/05/20

Heat it up just a little with a hair dryer make sure it’s flat , let it coo a bit now try it??

robertread - 25/06/20

The suction cup you provide sucks. In that it doesn’t hold. Luckily I had a set of heavy duty suction cups from when I worked on my iMac.

Charles Meitin - 06/05/21

Schritt 4

Ziehe den Saugnapf mit festem und konstantem Druck nach oben, bis sich eine kleine Lücke zwischen der Displayeinheit und dem Rückgehäuse bildet.
Führe die flache Seite eines Spudgers in diese Lücke ein.
Der wasserdichte Klebestreifen, welcher das Display in Position hält, ist sehr stark. Es kann viel Kraft brauchen, um diese erste kleine Lücke zu schaffen. Solltest du dabei Schwierigkeiten haben, wackle das Display etwas auf und ab, um den Klebestreifen zu schwächen, damit du den Spudger leichter einführen kannst.
Drehe den Spudger, während du den Saugnapf weiter nach oben ziehst, um die Lücke zwischen Display und Rückgehäuse zu vergrößern.

Be very careful not to pull up with too much force. My screen just shattered while I was pulling up with my suction cup. (There were no previous cracks or chips or anything).

Benjamin Pounds - 14/06/20

I’m stuck on this part. I’ve heated the bottom up and attached the suction cup right above the home button, but I can’t pull it apart. I feel like I’m going to break the glass display. Tips?

whtafrcn420 - 17/09/20

Someone mentioned above, using strong tape helps .

MajorCouillon - 17/10/20

You won’t be able to put the spudger into the gap unless the phone is in a vertical position (speaker side up) in your hands.

Mac - 29/10/20

read steps 4-9 before attempting. I cracked my glass because I didn’t

David Lei - 05/02/21

My first 7 Plus opening. I pulled up the screen just enough to insert a thin guitar pick at the bottom of the phone to break the adhesive. I didn’t even create a gap as such. I then ran the pick along the sides to continue to detach the adhesive, just like iFixIt show in Step 10 for the top of the phone.

My screen already had a crack at the bottom, near the home button, so I was nervous about pulling too hard on the screen. It had a screen protector fitted so maybe that helped keep it all together.

iFixIt’s use of a spudger at the bottom of the phone looked hazardous to me, especially with my damaged screen.

Big Ed - 04/05/21

This must be a joke. I’ve been trying for days to pull open the iphone like this. Doesn’t work. I bent the ring on the suction cup trying to pull it off, but nothing happens, no gap, not remote possibility of a pick or spudger getting in there.

James Osborne -

Ended up using a blowdryer and a razor blade. Bottom got scratched up, but there was no way that fat plastic spudger was going to fit. I got the razor under the corner, from there worked to middle and twisted with repeatedly adding heat. Lots of heat.

James Osborne -

Be aware that there is a small connector, under the home button.

Herb Adler -

I found that the edge of the spudger was too thick, so I sanded it down to almost a knife edge. This made it much easier to insert into the gap.

Herb Adler - 09/12/22

Use the Opener and a razor blade to cut through the adhesive. It takes about 45 seconds to heat up the Opener in a 1000 watt microwave. Be careful not to damage the thin display ribbon cables on the right side iphone. After you use the razor blade to cut the adhesive on the two sides and bottom you should be able to use the spudger to remove the display screen.

larrywert -

Schritt 5

Führe die flache Seite des Spudgers zwischen dem Front Panel und dem Rückgehäuse an die untere linke Ecke des iPhone.
Ziehe das Werkzeug von der unteren Ecke die linke Seite hinauf zu den Lautstärketasten und dem Stumm-Schalter und löse so den Kleber, der das Display hält.
Versuche nicht, die obere Seite des Displays abzuheben, denn diese wird zusätzlich mit Kunststoffclips in Position gehalten, die dann abbrechen könnten.

Schritt 6

Entferne das Werkzeug von der linken Seite des iPhones und setze das flache Ende in die Ecke rechts unten ein.
Ziehe die flache Seite des Werkzeugs entlang der rechten Seite nach oben, um den Klebestreifen zu lösen, der das Display fixiert.

Schritt 7

Ziehe am Saugnapf, um das Display anzuheben und das iPhone zu öffnen.
Hebe das Display nicht höher als bis zu einem 10 Grad Winkel, denn rechts sitzen Flachbandkabel, welche das Display mit dem Logic Board verbinden.

The ribbon cable part should be said earlier instead of halfway through

I just broke one because of it

BrenX1 -

Schritt 8

Ziehe an der kleinen Nippe des Saugnapfs, um ihn vom Front Panel zu lösen.

Schritt 9

Fahre mit einem Opening Pick unter dem Display am oberen Rand des iPhones entlang, um den restlichen Klebstoff zu lösen.

I couldn't find the pick in the tool set, so made my own. Then I found the original in the battery box. %#*@.

Herb Adler -

Same thing for me

Jason Skelton -

Schritt 10

Ziehe die Displayeinheit etwas von der oberen Kante des Telefons weg, um die Clips zu lösen, die sie am Rückgehäuse halten.
Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Display von der linken Seite her aufklappst, wie die Rückseite eines Buches.
Versuche nicht, das Display schon komplett zu entfernen, da empfindliche Kabel das Display immer noch mit dem Logic Board verbinden.

So if I broke the cable that connects the display to the logic board. What replacement part would I need to order now?

Robert Danson - 03/04/20

Probably the screen

Christian Sirolli - 17/03/21

Schritt 11

Entferne die folgenden Dreipunkt Y000-Schrauben, die die Blende des unteren Displaykabels am Logic Board fixieren:
Drei 1,2mm Schrauben
Eine 2,6mm Schraube

Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

u204863 - 07/08/17

Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

Jeff Suovanen - 09/08/17

You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.

Mark - 16/09/20

The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

shannon caldwell - 08/09/17

At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

LadyTech - 17/10/17

I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

Katherine Monday - 04/05/18

@katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen - 09/05/18

my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

AubreyG1 - 21/03/20

A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!

Trey Smith - 16/02/21

STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.

John Grant - 18/05/21

i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.

Tina Matthews -

there is one screw thats 1.2 mm but its bigger than the others and will fit in no hole of the entire phone. i got it out bot now i have no idea where it has to go i tried every hole. can somebody help me?

Lars Göbel -

what do i do if one of the screws dont want to come off

Neylley Reynoso -

Schritt 12

Entferne die Blende des unteren Displaykabels.

I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

chris west - 16/08/17

If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

Scott Havard - 17/08/17

Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol

Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.

jeffrey griffith - 18/01/19

I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

lkollar - 08/08/19

Schritt 13

Mit der Spitze eines Spudgers kannst du den Batterieanschluss aus seinem Stecker auf dem Logic Board heben.
Biege das Anschlusskabel leicht nach unten, um zu verhindern, dass es mit der Steckdose in Berührung kommt und das Telefon mit Strom versorgt.

You could cover the battery socket with a small piece of tape to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally re-connect. It’s not likely to, but I liked the peace of mind.

Mark - 16/09/20

on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.

Sarr Sheffer - 02/10/20

I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.

MajorCouillon - 17/10/20

After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

Evan O - 02/01/21

Schritt 14

Bevor du in diesem Schritt Kabel ablöst oder anschließt, musst du den Akku abtrennen.
Nutze das flache Ende eines Sprudgers oder einen Fingernagel, um die beiden unteren Displaystecker aus ihren Buchsen auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln.
Beim Wiedereinbau von Steckverbindungen, drücke die Kontakte erst an einem Ende nieder bis sie einrasten, anschließend das zweite Ende. Drücke nicht in die Mitte des Steckers. Wenn der Stecker auch nur minimal verschoben ist und du darauf drückst, verbiegt sich der Stecker und es kann zu einem unreparierbaren Schaden kommen.
Wenn du nach dem Zusammenbau kein Bild hast, das Display nur weiße Zeilen zeigt oder die Touchfunktion teilweise oder ganz ausgefallen ist, dann löse noch einmal diese beiden Kabel und verbinde sie neu. Achte darauf, dass sie gut sitzen.

The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

Talon - 24/06/17

What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

Alextay - 02/10/18

Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….

Darius Varanavičius - 17/05/19

what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

matomach - 24/10/19

When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

Grant Crawford - 03/10/20

My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol

Joshua Driscoll - 01/12/20

have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…

ibisiki - 05/12/20

Bent the pins on the connector out of place, worked them very carefully back with fine nose tweezers. This was by far the crux of the repair for me.

nicO Gurney - 21/05/21

Schritt 15

Entferne die drei Dreipunkt Y000 Schrauben, mit denen die Abdeckung über der Buchse für den Sensor des Front Panels befestigt ist.
Eine 1,3mm Schraube
Zwei 1,0mm Schraube
Entferne die Abdeckung.

Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

chris west - 16/08/17

I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

mcr4u2 - 05/01/18

What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?

assweeetasyou - 11/01/19

Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!

Wayne Lyell - 04/07/19

Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

Jeremiah Kjensmo - 09/03/19

I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction

Kayla Tobin - 06/03/21

Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

alicenine84 - 19/11/19

Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

Benji - 08/03/20

I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.

Stephen Patterson - 29/01/21

I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

Would appreciate any advice!

jrosegoep - 16/05/20

Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob

Robert Schmidt -

Schritt 16

Ziehe den Stecker der Front Panel Sensoreinheit aus der entsprechenden Buchse auf dem Logic Board.
Diese Steckverbindung sollte beim Wiederanschluss auch erst an einer Seite und dann an der anderen Seite zusammengedrückt werden, um zu verhindern, dass etwas verbogen wird.

Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

Kevin Reilly - 20/01/19

Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.

Lukas Watts -

That's save my life!thanks god!

neg -

I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

That Guy - 12/04/20

Schritt 17

Entferne die Displayeinheit.
Unterbrich hier während des Zusammenbaus wenn du den Klebstoff um die Kanten des Displays ersetzen willst.

When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

Benji - 08/03/20

Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!

Robert O'Brien - 03/04/21

is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.

jacobra -

Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.

Hannes -

I did not remove the display and ended up ripping one of the lower display cable ribbons when I turned the phone to remove one of the connectors. Be careful. I had to get a new display and move the Touch ID button.

Shawn Hime -

I think that moving the replacement of the seal lower in the chain of events would be more beneficial. I'm replacing the battery, and stretching the adhesive tabs that held the battery in at a low angle kept sticking themselves to the newly-installed adhesive seal.

In the end, I wound up having to just remove the section of the seal along the bottom of the case :-/

If I'd been looking at the bigger picture, I'd have wanted to put the seal on right before reattaching the screen cables.

Rob Russell -

Schritt 18

Entferne drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die Antennenkomponente befestigen:
Zwei 1,3 mm Schrauben
Eine 1,2 mm Schraube

It is not necessary to remove the logic board. remove the three standoff screws and the simcard holder and push back the sim ejector pin and you can lift the logic board up about 7mm. with isopropyl to loosen the adhesive, slide a spudger under the old charge port cable you can easily slide it out. Makes the job a lot easier and quicker.

Jack - 11/06/19

Yep it works, Jack. Thank you.

Simon -

Thanks Jack,

Followed your advice and saves a fair bit of work.

Drew McCluskey - 15/11/20

To each it’s own, but it was much better for me once I went through the steps and took the logic board off. It’s not hard. Without taking the board off, I found that the logic board is just too rigid to easily lift it up by 7mm. Plus the old Lightning Port assembly is stuck on the case pretty strong and putting the new one in with the adhesive and lining it up correctly would be impossible for me without the logic board clear out of the way. My personal recommendation is to stick to the script on this iFixit process.

S C -

Schritt 19

Entferne die 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die die Antennenkomponente an der Oberkante des Rückgehäuses befestigt.

This screw is slightly larger than the other 1.3mm ones. Don't mix it up like me.

vinicius.edson - 19/05/21

Schritt 20

Die Schraubenaufnahme am oberen Ende der Antenne steckt in einer kleinen Aussparung an der Oberkante des iPhones.
Kippe die Antenne in Richtung der oberen Kante des iPhone.
Schiebe die Schraubenaufnahme herunter und aus ihrer Aussparung heraus.

Schritt 21

Entferne die obere linke Antennenkomponente.

Schritt 22

Setze den SIM Karten Auswerfer oder eine aufgebogene Büroklammer in das kleine Loch im SIM Karteneinschub.
Drücke fest drauf, um die Karte auszuwerfen.

no sim problem

Makuri 369 -

Schritt 23

Entferne den SIM Karteneinschub vom iPhone.
Die SIM Karte fällt leicht aus dem Einschub.
Wenn du wieder die SIM Karte einlegst, achte auf die richtige Lage.
Eine kleine Gummidichtung um den Einschub sorgt für Schutz gegen Feuchtigkeit und Staub. Falls die Dichtung fehlt oder defekt ist, musst du für Ersatz sorgen, um die inneren Komponenten des iPhones zu schützen.

Schritt 24

Benutze ein iFixit Plastiköffnungswerkzeug oder den Fingernagel, um die Verbinder der dualen Kameras aus ihren Anschlüssen herauszulösen.

Schritt 25

Entferne die beiden Schrauben, die die Halterung der Rückkamera befestigen:
Eine 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
Eine 2,2 mm Abstandsschraube
Distanzschrauben lassen sich am Besten mit einem Abstandsschraubendreher oder passendem Bit entfernen.
Im Notfall kannst du auch einen kleinen Schlitzschraubendreher verwenden - sei aber besonders vorsichtig, dass dieser nicht abrutscht und umliegende Bauteile beschädigt.

Why is there a standoff screw here? No other screw goes into it so why not have a Phillips?

Trevor Smith - 14/02/18

More to the point, why doesn’t the Ifixit tool kit for this job come with the bit required?

John Tinsley - 28/04/19

Second that, sitting here trying to figure out how to get it out.

Jeffrey Wilhelm - 06/08/19

iFixit kits do come with all the required bits, but sometimes specialty bits like this one are packed into a different part of the box. Unpack the entire kit and you should find it. In the unlikely event that it really is missing due to a packing error, contact customer support and they’ll send you the missing bit ASAP.

Jeff Suovanen - 09/08/19

I strongly urge Ifixit to change this comment “In a pinch, a flathead screwdriver will do the job” - maybe ok for REMOVAL ONLY, but for REASSEMBLY - it is very dangerous - i used a flathead while fixing my daughters phone and they kept going crooked - easily causing me 1-2 hours of frustration and STRIPPING THE THREADS IN THE ALUMINUM BACK FRAME BODY !!!!

I had to hot glue a couple spots and skip several screws on reassembly to do the jankiest, most embarrasing repair job - BUY THE RIGHT SPECIAL TOOL FOR THE STANDOFF SCREWS OR YOU’LL REGRET IT!!!

treadmillfix - 02/06/19

There is no tool for this special screw. What gives?

Jacob DeShazo - 17/05/20

My kit has the standoff bit, just wasn't in the tool tray, it was loose in the box with another bit.

Neil Eriksen -

I tried it with the flat blade instead of the standoff screwdriver and it worked, but I figure it added about 15 minutes of fumbling around and some risk of slipping and stripping. I have the iFixIt kit with like 80 bits so I just assumed it would be in there. Had I known before starting, I would have definitely gotten a standoff bit, just for the peace of mind.

Arnie Schoenberg -

Schritt 26

Entferne die Abdeckung über der Rückkamera.

Schritt 27

Entferne die beiden 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die obere Kabelhalteklammer befestigen.

Schritt 28

Entferne die obere Kabelhalteklammer.

Schritt 29

Entferne die beiden 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die Erdungsklammer an der oberen linken Kante des Logic Boards sichern.

Schritt 30

Entferne die Erdungsklammer.

Schritt 31

Entferne die 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die das Antennenflachbandkabel an der Oberkante des Rückgehäuses festhält.
Entferne die letzte Kreuzschlitzschraube vom Antenne-Flachbandkabel.

This step is when you will also need to remove a second screw on the antenna flex cable, below and left of the circled screw.

Evan O - 02/01/21

Evan O is right! There is a 2.0 mm Standoff screw right below; and possibly slightly left, of the top 1.3 mm Phillips screw. It should actually show up in Step 15 as soon as the bracket is removed. Rob

Robert Schmidt -

Also that "remaining" phillips screw is I think a 1.6mm phillips screw. It helps to identify them when reassembling.

S C -

Schritt 32

Heble den Stecker des Antennenflachbandkabels mit deinem Fingernagel oder dem scharfen Ende eines iFixit Plastiköffnungswerkzeuges hoch und löse ihn vom Logic Board.

Schritt 33

Schiebe das flache Ende eines Spudgers unter das Antennenflachkabel, um den Kleber abzutrennen, der es festhält.

Schritt 34

Der Schraubdom am oberen Ende des Antennenflachkabels steckt in einer kleinen Einbuchtung an der Oberkante des iPhone.
Kippe das Kabel in Richtung des oberen Ende des iPhone nach oben.
Schiebe den Schraubdom nach unten und aus der Einbuchtung heraus.
Entferne das Antennenkabel.

What is underneath the Antena flex Cable?

Robert Schmidt -

I’m still waiting for response. Someone had the nerve to ask me, ‘Which Antena flex Cable?’ with response.

Robert Schmidt -

IfixIt: I need You to clarify something I just descovered. I just received different iPhone 7 Plus and Antena flex cable came off and left Standoff screw still on logic board. Different iPhone 7 Plus actually has Standoff screw attached to cable in way it’s impossible to separate.

Rob

Robert Schmidt -

Schritt 35

Benutze ein dünnes Hebelwerkzeug oder eine Pinzette, um vorsichtig die zwei Verbinder der Koaxialkabel vom Logic Board hochzuheben und zu lösen.
Beim Zusammenbau kann es kniffelig sein, diese wieder einzustecken. Halte nacheinander einen Verbinder genau über den Anschluss und drücke mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers darauf. Der Verbinder sollte dann einschnappen.

What purpose do these coax cables have?

Eddie Orantes - 20/01/19

Note… the top coax (nearest the battery connector) leads to the WiFi Diversity Antenna on the speaker assembly. The other coax is for the secondary cell antenna, part of the lightning assembly. Be sure to reassemble them to the right sockets!

Ronald Stamper - 26/03/19

Thanks so much for this helpful comment! I have just spent a few hours trying to find that information and here it is.

thalley - 29/11/19

Thank you so much, same as Thalley, more than 30 minutes that I’m searching for this info everywhere !!

Olivier Tardy - 23/05/20

Any tips on remembering which coax goes to which socket?

Alan Chen -

Thanks, I was almost certain but the OEM part came with longer coax, your post saved me time, and reasured me ;)

Martin Lambev -

Ronald Stamper, is this the same for the 7?

Keah Smith - 16/08/19

put a dab of tippex on the top connector so you remember which is which

Richard -

Schritt 36

Löse die beiden restlichen Flachbandkabel vom Logic Board:
Löse den oberen Kabelverbinder, indem du von oben her hebelst.
Löse den Verbinder des Lightning-Anschlusses, indem du entlang der Außenkante hebelst.

Schritt 37

Entferne die sieben Schrauben, die das Logic Board befestigen:
Eine 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
Zwei 2,1 mm Distanzschrauben
Zwei 2,0 mm DIstanzschrauben
Zwei 2,2 mm Distanzschrauben
Abstandsschrauben lassen sich am besten mit einem iPhone Distanzschraubenbit und einem Bithalter herausdrehen.
Zur Not geht es auch mit einem kleinen Flachschraubendreher, du musst dabei aber aufpassen, dass du nicht abrutschst und umliegende Bauteile beschädigst.

I did not have the 2.0mm standoff screw (closest to the edge of the phone by the power button). The bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector (Step 15) was screwed in to this spot.

Simon Ragona III - 29/10/20

I experienced the same.

Michael Moreno -

Same for me.

Zoli -

BEWARE. THIS GUIDE IS WRONG. Whoever did this guide is obviously an amateur who doesn't know what they're doing. The standoffs are vastly different from each other in width and design. There is a SPECIFIC standoff for the top "yellow" circle which connects to the ground clip.

DO NOT REMOVE THESE SCREWS / STANDOFFS WITHOUT CAREFULLY DOCUMENTING EACH INDIVIDUAL LOCATION AND SCREW

FIX YOUR GUIDE!!!

Pablo Edvardo -

Pablo is right, there IS a visible difference between the two yellow 2.0 mm standoff screws - make a note of which is which (label, drawing, etc.) when you’re at this step.

Christopher Villavicencio - 28/03/23

Schritt 38

Benutze die Spudgerspitze, um den Kolben des SIM-Kartenauswerfers wegzuschieben, damit das Logic Board freie Bahn hat.

Schritt 39

Schiebe vorsichtig die beiden Koaxialkabel mit der Spudgerspitze aus der kleinen Metallklammer, die sie am Logic Board festhält.

The cables need to be popped out of the clip by moving them up.

Evan O - 02/01/21

Remember to differentiate between the two coaxial cables, its hard to tell during reassembly which is which

Alan Chen -

Schritt 40

Hebe das Logic Board an den Unterkanten hoch und schiebe es in Richtung der Unterseite des iPhones, um es zu entfernen.
Achte daruf, dass sich das Logic Board nirgends an irgendwelchen Kabeln verhakt.
Achte beim Zusammenbau auf die Position der schwarzen Erdungsklammer an der oberen rechten Kante des Logic Boards in der Nähe der Rückkameras. Das Logic Board muss unter die Klammer gleiten.

is very nice, I follow them and I really like them

Juan Jose - 05/06/20

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Jeff Suovanen

Mitglied seit: 06/08/13

407156 Reputation

20 Kommentare

Helo! Where can I buy motherboard for iPhone 7+ that can be activated? Price?

Dario - 24/12/17

Can we use iphone 7+ 32gb board to a iphone 7+ 128 GB

Ali Mirsa - 22/08/18

You can purchase motherboard from this website.

https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-i...

Jose Palma - 12/11/20

It's really tough to install Board component but this guideline really helpful..

Flica Hussey - 15/05/18

how can you determine the different stand of screws

joe kelly - 01/07/18

organize your screws and look at the %#*@ guide

Tristan Haugh - 18/12/20

Is there a reason why I swapped the motherboard of a Verizon iPhone 7 plus onto a Sprint iPhone 7 plus but now boot ups take 5+ minutes and the phone displays “accessory may not be supported” when connected to a charger?

Pablo villacis - 07/07/18

The reason might be because you haven’t connect finger print (home button) into the motherboard.

kabore - 01/11/18

did you ever find a fix to your problem?

Francesco Digiorgio - 15/09/20

I am trying to find the correct motherboard for my iPhone 7 Plus (256GB) with finger print ID. Does anyone know where to find the proper/correct motherboard? Thank you!

Antoine - 06/08/18

I am trying to find the correct motherboard to purchase for my 256GB iPhone 7 Plus (with finger print ID). does anyone know where to get the correct one? Thanks!

Antoine - 06/08/18

Hi, I need the board for the iPhone 7+ 256GB with the fingertouch (which are paired).

Where did you get yours? can you help me? Did you buy yours?

Can you write directly to raul@miodo.com.ar

Thanks,

Raul Miodownik - 30/10/18

and the touch id its work or not ?

D E V - 15/09/18

If the flash is not working on the iPhone 7 plus, from which I want to get the logic board out, will it work on the “new” iPhone where I want to put it in, or are these errors connected to the motherboard?

christophw88 - 20/10/18

I have the board, showing red (water damage); however, the battery warms up. If charge, noting else. If need to replace the motherboard, will i lose all the data inside? I’ve also order battery and digitizer, hoping that will do. The top part just above the white dot which turns red (motherboard) near antenna, looks burnt. Help

Levianathis - 27/10/18

Hi, I need the board for the iPhone 7+ 256GB with the fingertouch (which are paired).

Where did you get yours? can you help me?

Can you write directly to raul@miodo.com.ar

Thanks,

Raul Miodownik - 30/10/18

peut on mettre la carte mère d’un iphone 7 sur un 7 plus?

Fanny Caillaud - 19/03/19

Very Helpful, thanks!

Antonio Morataya - 03/02/20

My phone was completely black but home button vibrates when pressing on it and itunes could not recognise the device when plugged into it. Now i replaced the front screen and after charging 12hours the phone does not turn on. In this case, does anyone know what is causing the issue?

hin - 14/03/21

I found it is essential to have a magnetic board like the one iFixit sells in order to keep the screws all in order. If you mix them up, you’ll need an accurate digital caliper or a precise analog micrometer to measure the screws for length.

I found the instructions super helpful in completely drying out my iPhone 7Plus after it suffered from a dunking well along in its life. I had replaced the battery myself a year ago, and although I thought I had properly sealed it, it still leaked. I was able to get it dried out and back in order by following these instructions to remove the logic board and then do a heated dry with a blow dryer for five or so minutes on low while monitoring it carefully with my hand and an IR thermometer.

Paul - 17/03/21