MacBook Air 13" Retina Display 2019 Logic Board Replacement

Written By: Adam O'Camb
  • Comments: 28
MacBook Air 13" Retina Display 2019 Logic Board Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

18

Time Required

15 - 40 minutes

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the logic board in a 2019 MacBook Air.

Note that Touch ID will not function after replacing the logic board. The MacBook’s original Touch ID sensor is uniquely paired to the T2 chip on the logic board at the factory—and without Apple’s proprietary calibration process, even a genuine replacement logic board from another MacBook Air won’t work.

If you replace the logic board, you must install a paired Touch ID sensor to retain Touch ID functionality.

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    • Before starting this procedure, you should disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide to disable Auto Boot.

    • If your MacBook is running Big Sur v11.1 or later, disabling Auto Boot may not work. You can proceed normally, but make sure to disconnect the battery as soon as you're inside.

    • Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Air before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.

    • Use a P5 driver to remove the following screws:

    • Two 7.9 mm screws

    • Two 7.1 mm screws

    • Six 2.6 mm screws

    If the first thing you do is disconnect the battery, is it really an issue if you don’t (or can’t) disable auto-boot?

    maccentric -

    I agree, why disable Auto-Boot when the lid is closed and the battery is disconnected immediately? – I've never had an issue since 2016 when the feature was introduced.

    stevebsiegel -

    On my machine, the longest two screws were in the corners, while the other two long screws were in the middle. Perhaps previous service in the past had them replaced into the wrong place? In any case, the longest screws do seem to fit in either place. I guess 0.8mm is not very much of a difference. Seems like poor design if they could have used one size of screw.

    johann beda -

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    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case.

    Das geht etwas schwer, da das Unterteil mittig noch von 2 Druckverschlüssen gehalten wird.

    facebook -

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    • Peel back the tape covering the battery connector enough to reveal the connector underneath.

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    • Use a spudger to slide the battery connector parallel to the logic board and out of its socket on the logic board.

    Before the battery can be fully disconnected, the battery disconnect button needs to be held down. There is a gold button just above the battery socket, along with a small LED much like the 12” machines. Once this has been held down and the LED has switched off it is safe to remove the battery.

    Aaron Dalziel -

    This seems like an important step?

    maccentric -

    Also, seems like this should be done after the battery is disconnected, not before? Otherwise, wouldn’t the battery re-charge it?

    maccentric -

    What if the white LED dosent light up after pressing the yellow button again?

    Iron05 -

    I just performed this repair on my late 2018 mac air. I did click the gold button but saw no LED illuminated or otherwise. Question- after reassembly does the button get pressed again to connect the battery? Please clarify if this button is to be pressed and if it needs pressing again after the repair.

    All said - I pressed again after the battery connector clicked, assembled the back and all worked perfectly. The original issue was one dead port (no charge, no communication). The battery charge lightening bold icon was acting funny too. Genuis bar guy in Naperville said it was likely a logic board too. But it was not. The port was apparently confusing the logic board with regards to the charge function. Thanks Adam for saving me $440 and sending my computer back to Apple. I am 71 yrs young - who says an old dog can’t learn new tricks with good training!!

    William Lane -

    I didn't see Aaron's comment before completing the battery replacement. Afterwards, the computer would not turn on despite multiple SMC reset procedures. Upon double-checking the comments I see the importance of pressing the gold button. I pressed the gold button before disconnecting the new battery, then pressed it again after reconnecting for good measure. Computer booted!

    It would be good of iFixit to add this important step as most people probably don't open up every single comment on (seemingly) simple steps.

    Corey Matsumoto -

    Seconding Corey's comment. If paid more attention to the comment section, I would have avoided 15-30 minutes of panic. (BTW I did not notice any LED, but the golden button was easy to find).

    Lorenzo Sorbo -

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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the trackpad connector bracket.

    • Remove the trackpad connector bracket.

    My machine used T4 screws

    johann beda -

    Me too! I tried with T3 and it wasn’t working.

    Rose Alshuaibi -

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up and out of its socket.

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    • If the left speaker is already disconnected, skip this step.

    • Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the left speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.

    • With the connector disconnected, slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable to the logic board.

    I think step 15 was a mistake because it’s a repeat of step 10.

    Ryan R -

    Yeah, the speaker is already removed at this point.

    Jason _ -

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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.3 mm screws securing the USB-C port connector bracket.

    • Remove the USB-C connector bracket.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the USB-C cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

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    • Use a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the sound board cable's ZIF connector.

    • Slide the sound board cable out of the ZIF connector.

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    • Peel back the black tape covering the fan cable connector.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.

    • Slide the fan cable out of the ZIF connector.

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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the antenna cable bracket.

    • Remove the antenna cable bracket.

    These are T4 screws

    Richard Arnett -

    The MBA I just finished with were T3. I'm fairly confident with my tools as I recently updated/upgraded nearly my entire set with WiHa. I should also mention the many tools acquired from iFixit over the years have all been were exceptional lasting years. There's no doubt iFixit would have been my source but a close friend went to work for WiHa. His discount(s) & being motivated to help him was a major impact. For anyone not having such an advantage IMHO tools from iFixit are one of the best values anywhere. Let's not forget; buying from iFixit will also help to push "Right to Repair" forward. Here in Minnesota Right to repair ALMOST PASSED. Many believe it will become law during the next session! I can't tell you how proud this would make me. I would obtain as many service manuals as possible and post them all online!!! What a great dream...

    admin -

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    • Insert the point of a spudger under one of the antenna cables close to the connector. Pry straight up to disconnect the cable.

    • Repeat for the other antenna cable.

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    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.5 mm screws securing the display cable connector bracket.

    • Remove the display cable connector bracket.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the display cable connector.

    How do I reconnect display connector??

    Kris Queck -

    Just align the plug section of the display flex with the socket on the logic board and gently press it in until it locks in place. Do not force it but just ensure it’s correctly aligned before pushing it into the socket.

    Peter Newman -

    Pro tip: You can remove the two T5 screws on the LCD connector side (located to the right of the display connector and to the left of the heat shield). From there, tilt the whole skinny LCD board towards the logic board connector and gently pinch the connector in to the socket. Before laying the skinny board back down, screw in the shield from Step 15 so it doesn’t pop out of the socket again.

    jason4 -

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    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws:

    • One 5.5 mm screw

    • Three 2.6 mm screws

    • Two 1.9 mm screws

    These are T5 Torx driver screws

    Richard Arnett -

    Need torx 5 AND torx 4 driver here ;)

    Marcel Popp -

    During re-assembly be soft when screwing in the logic board because those antenna plugs in Step 14 are quite awkward to pin back into their sockets and there is little leeway in the cables; to make this task a little easier in Step 14, secure the logic board loosely right up against the near outside edge; after re-connecting all the cables in Steps 16-9, return to Step 17 to firm up the logic board screws.

    Andrew Gordon -

    This tip was a huge help, hate these cables lol

    Konrad Anderson -

    The 5.5 mm screw goes into a hexagon standoff which may come off with the logic board being sanswiched beteen the 5.5 mm screw screw and the standoff like happened to me. Just something to be aware of. It also has a black rubber bumper over the screw which was not mentioned at all. It pulls straight off to give access to the screw.

    Peter Newman -

    On my board I needed to use T6 for all the screws except the rubber bumper for which I used a T7. I have a full set of small Torx drivers and tried for the best fit.

    jeffyouell -

    T5 fit best is all the screws on my machine

    johann beda -

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    • Remove the logic board.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Adam O'Camb

Member since: 11/04/15

178619 Reputation

One comment

Consulta , para este modelo el cambio de pasta disipadora es diferente a modelos anteriores, es factible colocarle una HY510 HEATSINK?

A lo que voy es que yo desmonte un equipo, y lo revise y veo que la pasta esta medio seca.

Arturo Lugo -