Samsung Galaxy S21 Screen and Battery Assembly Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 15

Samsung Galaxy S21 Screen and Battery Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the screen and battery assembly on your Samsung Galaxy S21 with a genuine Samsung part.

This guide is written for the genuine Samsung screen and battery assembly. The assembly consists of the screen, battery, and frame together in one part. Be sure you have the right part before you begin the repair.

Before you begin, refer to the Samsung Self-Repair document for safety information.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions. Before disassembling your device, completely discharge the battery. This reduces the risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair.

Note: Retaining water resistance after the repair will depend on how well you reapply the adhesive, but your device will lose its IP (Ingress Protection) rating.

Some images in this guide may show minor discontinuities. They should not affect the overall guide procedure.

Tools

Parts

Samsung Galaxy S21 G5 (USA) Screen and Battery - Genuine

Step 1

Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole on the bottom edge of the phone.
Press the SIM eject tool into the SIM card tray hole to eject the SIM card tray.
Remove the SIM card tray.
If you accidentally inserted the SIM eject tool into a microphone hole, don't worry! You most likely didn't damage the microphone.

Step 2

Completely power off your phone before you begin.
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the back cover's bottom edge for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display, internal battery, and plastic back cover are both susceptible to heat damage.

Step 3

Apply a suction cup to the back of the phone, as close to the center of the bottom edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back cover and the frame.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you're having trouble, apply more heat to the edge and try again.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Only insert the pick up to 5 mm, as you may damage internal components if you go further.

Step 4

Slide the pick back and forth along the bottom edge to slice through the adhesive.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 5

Apply a heated iOpener to the back cover's left edge for two minutes.

Step 6

Apply a suction cup to the back of the phone, as close to the center of the left edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back cover and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Only insert the pick up to 5 mm, as you may damage internal components if you go further.

Step 7

Slide an opening pick along the left edge towards the bottom left corner to cut the adhesive.
Don't cut past where the camera shell meets the back cover, as you risk cracking the plastic.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 8

Apply a heated iOpener to the back cover's right edge for two minutes.

Step 9

Apply a suction cup to the back of the phone, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back cover and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Only insert the pick up to 3 mm, as you may damage the secondary interconnect cable, which runs parallel to the right edge.

Step 10

Slide an opening pick back and forth along the back cover's right edge to cut the adhesive.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11

Rotate the right-edge opening pick around the top-right corner of the phone.
Only insert the pick up to 5 mm, as you may damage internal components if you go further.
This procedure can be applied to each corner, except the top-left where the rear-facing camera is located.

Step 12

Slide the top-most opening pick as close to the camera shell as possible.
Repeat for the left-edge pick.

Step 13

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the camera shell for two minutes.
As you wait for the adhesive to loosen, note the following:
There's additional adhesive to the right of the camera that you need to cut through.
There's a plate on the back cover surrounding the phone's flash that the pick can get stuck on:
Angle the pick downward to avoid any damage.

Step 14

Rotate the back cover counterclockwise to create a gap between the camera shell and the frame.
Only insert the pick up to 5 mm to avoid scratching the camera.
Insert an opening pick in the gap.
If this method doesn't work, move to the next step for an alternative method; otherwise, skip the next step.

The whole topic of the camera shell and adhesive is confusing. It's not immediately clear if the camera bezel is a separate piece. I suggest redoing this section a bit and combining it with the alternate method (which really isn't an alternate at all). The square of adhesive in the flash area needs to be called out in the same step as the camera shell/bezel. This topic is simpler than it appears in this manual. I expected all sorts of adhesive to be on the camera frame when I got the cover off, but that wasn't the case. Make sure to indicate the camera shell/bezel is integrated with the case.

Don Riggs -

Hi Don.

Thank you for the feedback! I have consolidated some of the steps to make it simpler.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

Step 15

Slide an opening pick between the camera shell and the frame to cut the adhesive.
There's a significant amount of adhesive securing the frame to the camera shell, so multiple rounds of heating may be needed.

Step 16

Line up the opening pick's tip with your phone's flash
Insert the pick slowly, making sure to avoid the flash's plate.
The plate's resistance can feel similar to adhesive. Angle the pick downward to keep the pick from sliding into the plate.
Slice the adhesive to the right of the camera.

Step 17

Remove the back cover.
If your back cover is still sticking to the frame, slide the pick around the edges of the phone until the back cover completely separates.
During reassembly:
This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.
Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of tweezers or your fingers. Apply heat if you're having trouble separating the adhesive.
If you're using Samsung custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide.
If you're using double-sided tape, follow this guide.

Do NOT clean the inside of the back cover with alcohol. I was trying to wipe away some adhesive residue (not even necessary, just get the chunks out), and I got the alcohol on this delicate gasket that's around the clear plastic lens covers in back cover. I wish they had made these windows glass, because they are junk (another topic). The alcohol caused about 1/3 of the gasket to disintegrate immediately. This didn't make me happy, because I didn't want to wait for a new gasket (if they are even available). I improvised, but I hope no more of the gasket flakes off and gets on the camera lenses.

Don Riggs -

Step 18

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 4 mm-long screws securing the motherboard bracket to the frame.
If you're reassembling with the Samsung Self-Repair kit, be sure to replace the screws with new ones labeled #3427.

Step 19

Use a pair of tweezers to gently pull up and unclip the motherboard bracket from the frame.
Do not completely remove the bracket yet, as it's still attached to the wireless charging coil.

Step 20

While using tweezers, or your fingers, to hold the motherboard bracket out of the way, use a spudger to pry up the battery press connector.
Take care to pry only under the edge of the connector to prevent damaging the socket itself and surrounding components.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 21

While holding the motherboard bracket out of the way, use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil's press connector.

Step 22

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the six 4 mm-long screws securing the loudspeaker to the frame.
If you're reassembling with the Samsung Self-Repair kit, be sure to replace the screws with new ones labeled #3427.

Step 23

Insert the point of a spudger into the notch in the top-left corner of the loudspeaker and pry up to release the clips holding it in place.

Step 24

Remove the wireless charging coil.

Step 25

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the primary interconnect cable's press connector.

Step 26

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the secondary interconnect cable's press connector.

Step 27

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the secondary interconnect cable's press connector.
Repeat for the main interconnect cable's press connector.

Step 28

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove both cables.
Set the cables aside. You'll reuse them during reassembly.

Step 29

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3.5 mm-long screws securing the daughterboard to the frame.
If you're reassembling with the Samsung Self-Repair kit, be sure to replace the screws with new ones labeled #3428.

Step 30

Use the point of a spudger to pry up the daughterboard.
Use your fingers to pull the daughterboard up and away from the bottom of the phone and remove it.
If you feel any resistance, the USB-C port could still be caught in its groove. Gently wiggle the daughterboard while pulling until it completely separates from the phone.

don't forget to remove the sim card tray

Max Kramarov -

Hi Max.

Thank you for the feedback! I have added the SIM card tray removal in the beginning.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

Step 31

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the earpiece speaker cable's press connector.

Step 32

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven 4 mm-long screws securing the earpiece speaker to the motherboard.
If you're reassembling with the Samsung Self-Repair kit, be sure to replace the screws with new ones labeled #3427.

Step 33

Insert the point of a spudger into the gap between the right-most edge of the earpiece speaker and the phone.
Use the spudger to pry up and release the clips holding the earpiece speaker in place.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the earpiece speaker.

Step 34

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable's top press connector.

Step 35

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left 5G mmWave antenna cable's press connector.
Repeat for the power button cable's press connector.

Step 36

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to bend the power button cable away from the phone.
Repeat for the left-edge 5G mmWave antenna cable.
Avoid folding or sharply bending the cables while repositioning them—doing so could tear the cables.

Step 37

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the front camera's press connector.

Step 38

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the orange press connector adjacent to the 5G mmWave antenna cable's press connector.
Repeat for the green 5G mmWave antenna cable's press connector.

Step 39

Use tweezers or your fingers to bend both right edge cables away from the motherboard.
Avoid folding or sharply bending the cables while repositioning them—doing so could tear the cables.

Step 40

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 4 mm-long screw securing the camera bracket and the motherboard to the frame.
If you're reassembling with the Samsung Self-Repair kit, be sure to replace the screw with a new one labeled #3427.

Step 41

Insert a spudger between the bottom-right edge of the motherboard and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to release the clips securing the motherboard.
Use your fingers to remove the motherboard.

Step 42

Apply a heated iOpener to the front camera for 90 seconds.

Step 43

Insert the point of a spudger into the gap between the frame and the front camera.
Pry up with the spudger to detach the front camera.
If you're having trouble separating the front camera from the frame, apply more heat; it may take a while for the adhesive to loosen.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the front camera.

The front camera was very hard to remove. I was afraid I was going to destroy it. I had to apply heat about 4 times. Also, I was disappointed with the front camera tape included with the Samsung IFIXIT kit. It was so very minimal compared to the thick OEM adhesive and not that sticky. I didn't think it would hold, so I added my own adhesive out of fear of my phone developing a rattle someday.

Don Riggs -

Hi Don.

You did the right thing by heating the front camera multiple times. The adhesive is quite strong and takes some time to loosen. The Samsung kits are OEM, and the included front camera tape should hold well; I would not worry about adding your own adhesive.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

I heated mine about 4x as well, but found my spudger wasn't going to fit inside for some reason. Upon closer inspection, there was additional adhesive/filler along the sides of the camera that was clear, almost like a hard silicone. I sadly did destroy my camera with tweezers trying to pry it out. I finally used my own pick set to lift it out and found the hard clear adhesive on the sides. I have a picture to upload if you have an email or upload link.

Jay B. -

Welp, I managed to separate the image sensor from the lens assembly. Could have used a warning on that. No selfies for me I guess.

Alex L -

Mine came with a new front camera already in place. Thank you for this as it seems it was a pain point.

B Strange -

Step 44

During reassembly, follow these instructions to reinstall your front camera:
Peel off the front camera adhesive from its liner and apply the sticky end to the frame.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull on the tab and expose the top layer of adhesive.
Insert the front camera and apply pressure to adhere it to the frame.

Step 45

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3.5 mm-long screws securing the 5G mmWave antenna brackets to the frame.
If you're reassembling with the Samsung Self-Repair kit, be sure to replace the screws with new ones labeled #3428.

Step 46

Use the point of a spudger to pry up on the right 5G mmWave antenna bracket's bottom screw tab.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the 5G mmWave antenna.
Set the antenna aside. You'll reuse it during reassembly.

Step 47

Use the point of a spudger to pry up on the left 5G mmWave antenna bracket's top edge.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the 5G mmWave antenna.
Set the antenna aside. You'll reuse it during reassembly.

Step 48

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable's press connector near the bottom of the device.

Step 49

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the display cable.
Set the cable aside. You'll reuse it during reassembly.

Step 50

You're now left with the screen and battery assembly.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

Irresponsible and amateurish OBVIOUSLY the 5G antenna in the top right hand corner remains...

Of which one of those four screws is always put in with loctite and designed to strip out..

WITHOUT THIS ANTENNA THE PHONE WILL ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY NOT WORK

jeromedaues -

Hello Jerome,

The OEM replacement screen and battery assembly should come with the flex antenna pre-installed so you don't have to remove and transfer this component. If your part didn't come with the antenna, please contact our customer support.

Arthur Shi -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow the instructions in reverse order and perform the opposite actions, e.g., "reattach" instead of "removing." Skip steps that use heating and prying, and pay close attention to the 📌 bullets as you work through the steps.

After you've completed the repair, download the Samsung Members App from the Galaxy Store or the Play Store, and follow the Samsung Self-Repair document (beginning page 10) to make sure your device is fully functional.

Download the Self Repair Assistant on your device and follow the Samsung Self-Repair document (beginning page 11) to perform a battery cycle reset.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

68841 Reputation

3 comments

This was good overall. Thank you. If you can come up with a suggestion for gluing the front camera back in place properly, that would be great. The tiny Samsung/IFIXIT ring of tape seems ridiculous honestly.

Don Riggs -

As a note, you need to remove the flex antenna in the top right corner from the old frame and move it over to the new frame, or you won't have signal. This applies even if you have a antenna in the new frame. Takes a tri-point screwdriver bit.

Vincent Bangrazi -

Hi Vincent.

Thank you for your comment! The OEM replacement screen and battery assembly should come with the flex antenna pre-installed, and it should work properly after your repair. If your part didn't come with the antenna, please contact our customer support.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl - 09/11/22