Xbox One Wireless Controller Trigger Rumble Motor Replacement

Written By: Tommy

Comments: 40

Xbox One Wireless Controller Trigger Rumble Motor Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

15 - 20 minutes

Introduction

In this guide, you will learn how to remove the rumble motors located in the triggers. This task requires you to fully disassemble the triggers on the controller.

Tools

Parts

Trigger Rumble Motor(s)

Step 1

Remove the battery pack cover.
Remove batteries.

Step 2

We recommend using a nylon spudger for this step. A metal spudger is shown.
Grip the controller firmly to remove the side handles, wedging a spudger into the seam between the front and handle plates.
Pry the side plate away from the front plate by moving the spudger back and forth. You will need to do this all the way around the side plate's seam.

Start prying the side plate off underneath the trigger, this makes it easier to disconnect the other clips connecting the side plate to the backplate.

Brandon - 07/04/18

One you take it off, is it possible to click it back in?

Aiden Bear - 08/04/18

As long as you don’t exceed the couple tons you need to take it off you should be able to put it back.

Brandon - 09/04/18

I don’t have a squdger

TimidFerret4982 Gaming - 27/11/19

getting those handles back on seems impossible, they just dont fit as well, a gap remains even after snapping into place.

Dont think ill be doing this in the future

Spoutin Wyze - 17/03/21

edit: wiggled the bo9ttom middlewith the handles off and somethign finally “clicked” into place for that extra 1/4 mm for the down arrow on my D-Pad to click back up into place!.

Spoutin Wyze - 17/03/21

Step 3

There is a hidden screw located in the middle of the controller behind the label.
Use a screwdriver and punch a hole directly in the center of the label.
You may also lift the label if you do not want to puncture it.
Remove the five 10mm screws located on the back of the controller using the T8 Security Torx Screwdriver.

i damaged my screws. how do i get the screws out?

tenzin - 12/11/16

wait. i just watched a video guide on ifixit's youtube channel about damaged screws. i'll try those methods.

tenzin - 12/11/16

It's a t8 or t9 security bit btw, I got the top two out with a regular T8, but the bottom two and middle needed a T9 Security bit.

David Loper - 23/11/16

All five faceplate/backplate screws in the controller I disassembled were T8 security fasteners.

John Dziedzic - 07/12/16

Am I doing something wrong because I got the tool it said I needed and got the middle screw out but the others have a bump or something in the center of the screw and it won't fit.

kolton77 - 03/01/17

The T8 is only good for the middle screw on my One S controller. The others require something bigger

Matej Skelo - 29/01/17

These requires SECURITY Torx bits (they have a cannulated hole in the driver). I don't believe the iFixIt branded driver is cannulated but you can buy a set of bits from DeWalt DWAX200 which is overkill but has what you need.

jhighsmith - 15/04/17

The driver that iFixIt sells is cannulated.

jhighsmith - 15/04/17

where do you get this dumb ass screw driver

Jake Zweier - 19/08/17

iFixit Store #IF145-027-3

VauWeh - 19/08/17

You can bypass it with a 1.5mm flathead.

Marianne Sandling - 23/09/17

thank you for this. worked for me

Mr Anderson (Evolluisionist) - 11/11/18

These screws required a T10, not T8.

Armand - 24/01/19

TR9. A $10 kit from Walmart has the bit/driver in it and extra goodies to make life simple.

Matt Martin - 11/12/19

As weird as it sounds, the top 2 came out for me with a flathead- but the bottom two and the middle one wont

macybrooksevans - 17/01/20

If you damage the middle part of the screws you can still take it out with the same screwdriver.

Kev God - 09/03/20

Thank-You :)

Isaiah - 25/04/21

needed a T8H, not easy to see.

on a grey green xbox one controller

Michael -

You need a T8 and the kit is not $10 it’s $13.88 Hyper Tough Electronic Kit. In the hardware section at WalMart it a T8 because I tried everything and only a T8 fit it like a magnet. And the dumbass that wrote the article there is only 1 freaking screw.

Bear Darazs -

Step 4

Remove the backplate.

Step 5

Remove the faceplate.

Step 6

You may let the rumble motors hang freely out of their sockets.
De-solder the soldered joints while holding the red and black wires down on the top motherboard.
De-solder the black and gray wires that are attached to the top motherboard.
Remove the rumble motors and set them aside.
Be careful while using the soldering iron not to damage other components or hurt yourself.
For information on how to solder, click here.

Steps 6-8 aren't completely necessary, and are very risky if you aren't good at soldering. It would seem the only reason to remove the motherboard and mess with all this soldering is just so you can reach both screws on the trigger in step 10. However, you can reach them already with a small-bodied screwdriver. Although you might have to rest the screwdriver on the black square processor to reach the bottom screw, it shouldn't damage the processor or motherboard to jimmy that screw out.

Robert Rapier - 04/01/17

like mentioned by ‘Robert Rapier’ you can skip the de-soldering in most cases,

for example cleaning or changing the buttons is doable, but the grey and black wires are pretty short

and wired through the inner case so it can get a bit fiddly and you have to be careful not to damage them in the process.

If you have a soldering station around i would still recommend using it.

yKekS Yzz - 10/01/18

Step 7

Unscrew the two 7mm T6 screws located near the rumble motor sockets.

Are these just T6 screws or Torx security T6 that is cannulated?

Kenan Vickstrom - 08/06/18

The outer screws are security screws. The ones on the system boards are Torx.

Rongwey - 12/08/20

Step 8

Firmly grip sides of motherboard near the middle.
Lift upwards while slightly wiggling the motherboard forward and backward.
Lifting the motherboard will require some force.

Step 9

Remove the yellow tape holding the wires in place on the front of the controller.

Step 10

Unscrew the two 7mm T6 Hex screws located on underside the triggers.

Step 11

Remove the trigger covers.

Step 12

Desolder the wires from the motherboard.
Remove the rumble motors from its socket and pull the wire with it.

Perso après le remontage ça n'a jamais refonctionné ma manette détecte plus du tout les gachettes et jai changé les joysticks en même temps et eux non plus ne detecte plus….

Tuto Free - 05/12/20

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Tommy

Member since: 22/01/15

1867 Reputation

10 comments

After a drop onto tile flooring, the side clip of the outer handle snapped and got lodged into the trigger, causing it to only pull to 80% and go no further. Thanks for this breakdown.

solofrom303 - 13/04/16

My right trigger won't work on gta 5 and on other games it works

Devean Velasquez - 09/08/16

Very strange, Devean. That sounds more like a software problem than a hardware problem, if I had to guess. If you haven't already, maybe check to make sure that your control setup is correct.

Alternatively, see if you can find any other games that your RT doesn't work for, and see what they have in common with GTA - it might be that the trigger isn't registering as fully depressed, or only ever registering when fully depressed.

Liam Gow - 10/08/16

Trying to replace bumpers assembly and green sync button fell out can not figure how to put it back in.

Anthony Bembenek - 25/10/16