Introduction
Replace the hard drive in your iMac Intel 21.5".
This guide also includes steps to upgrade your iMac's hard drive with a SSD. It describes how to install the SSD's temperature sensor so that the Mac's fans will operate at the correct speed.
Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.
Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply.
Tools
Parts
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Stick a suction cup near each of the two top corners of the glass panel.
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If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent.
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Gently lift the glass panel perpendicular to the face of the LCD enough to clear the steel mounting pins attached along the underside of the top edge of the glass panel.
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Pull the glass panel away from the lower edge of the iMac and carefully set it aside.
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Pull the vertical sync ribbon cable out of its socket on the LED driver board near the top left corner of your iMac.
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Rotate the display out of the outer case enough to disconnect the LED backlight power cable from the LED driver board.
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Squeeze the two display data cable connector arms together to unlock it from its socket on the logic board.
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Pull the display data cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.
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Carefully pull the display toward the top edge of your iMac and lift it out of the outer case, minding any cables that may get caught.
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Disconnect the thermal sensor by pulling its connector away from the side of the hard drive.
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Disconnect the SATA data cable by pulling its connector away from the hard drive.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to help disconnect the SATA power connector from the hard drive.
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Remove the two 9 mm T10 Torx screws securing the upper hard drive bracket to the outer case.
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Slightly rotate the hard drive out of the outer case and lift it up off its mounting pins toward the top edge of the iMac.
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Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the upper bracket to the hard drive.
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Remove the upper bracket from the hard drive.
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Line up the SSD connectors with the metal enclosure's sockets.
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Press the drive against the enclosure sockets until the SSD is firmly seated.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the four silver screws (two on each side) along the edges of the SSD to secure it to the enclosure.
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Peel the white liner off the back of the small temperature sensor board in order to expose the adhesive.
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Adhere the temperature sensor board to an exposed, metal surface of the SSD, close to the SATA connector.
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Fold the excess temperature sensor wires so that they are out of the way while you install the enclosure.
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Use a T8 driver to install the mounting pins from the old hard drive onto the sides of the enclosure.
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Slide the SSD enclosure into the space previously occupied by the hard drive.
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Route the SATA cables so that they will not interfere with any other components.
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Find the connector on the motherboard labeled HD TMP or HDD TEMP.
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If the previous temperature cable is still connected to the board here, disconnect and remove it. You will no longer need it.
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Connect the temperature sensor's two-wire red-black cable to the motherboard plug labeled HD TMP or HDD TEMP.
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Route the excess wire so it does not interfere with any other components.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
65 comments
Make sure the hard drive is of the same producer and it has a temp sensor connector. It's the only way to ensure that the heat sensor connector will fit into the hard drive's socket. If you don't plug in the temp sensor iMac's HDD Fan will rotate at its maximum speed, ie. over 6000 rpms - the noise is extraordinary!!!
I replaced my internal HDD on my 215" iMac, but the iMac can't get access to the new hard disk's (Seagate Barracuda Green) temperature sensor. The HDD fan in the iMac steps up the RPM, and over about 15min reaches 6000RPM (VERY loud) and stays there until machine is shutdown or put to sleep.
I found a fix for this: http://hddfancontrol.com/HDDFanControl/H... - this tiny piece of shareware software allows the iMac to see the temperature of the drive via S.M.A.R.T., and therefore the fans react according to the correct temperature again!
Ian -
One thing Andrew left out here, which I discovered on my own, is that even if you have the temperature sensor connected to the correct pins, you ALSO have to make sure that it is 'oriented' properly.
On the sensor connector (the little head that plugs into the hard drive) I saw a little white dot on one side, which it turns out, indicates that's the 'top'. So on my iMac, you have to make sure when you connect the temp sensor connector with the white dot showing.
Otherwise, I got the 6000 rpm fans.
Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.
kctipton -
Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.
MaximBorzov -
You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.
Deepsurvival -
That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.
Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.
max damage -
No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.
Nikolas Lintulaakso -
Nails worked for me too
Rob Dale -
Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.
Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.
osienna -
I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well
jc3Dcx -
I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!
3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.
Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.
I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.
Good luck!
ivan birks -
I did it several times with one suction cup at the end of a kitchen brush. Once with the blade of a swiss army knive, also ok. And i’m pretty sure it works with fingernails too
Tai -
Fingernails are all you need to free the glass from its magnetic hold. If you don’t have them, slip something thin and plastic, like a spudger, at a top corner.
Max Powers -
Minha dúvida é a seguinte: após o técnico trocar o HD do meu iMac de 21,5 polegadas, a câmera parou de funcionar. Seria por causa da troca do HD? Tem solução?
Claudio -
Creio que o cabo da camera não foi plugado ou deu mau contato… ou até danificado.
glecyo@gmail.com
glecyo medeiros -
I can’t get my glass to budge. I’m replacing a cracked one and now it’s about to shatter.
jamboxmitchell -
I know that I'm replying really late but I advise to use clear tape over any cracks so the cracks don't get bigger
Jace Holmes -
Check for chips in the glass BEFORE you do this step. If there is a chip when you pull up with the suction cups you will wind up with a jagged mess. If you do have a chip I would advise covering the screen near the chip with clear tape of some kind before lifting out. Mine shattered right at the chip and the resulting glass dust cloud got all over. My solution was buying a new glass screen.
BCam -