iPad 5 LTE Logic Board Replacement

Step 1

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 2

While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:
Front camera
Antennas
Display cables

Step 3

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the left edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 5

If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.
Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.

Step 6

Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
Don't worry if you can see the opening pick through the digitizer—just pull the pick out. The LCD screen shouldn't be damaged, but you risk leaving behind hard-to-clean adhesive.

Step 7

If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad to continue separating the adhesive.

Step 8

Slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 9

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 10

Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

Step 11

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just before you reach the front camera.
Avoid sliding the pick over the front camera, as you may damage the lens. The following steps will show how to prevent this.

Step 12

Pull the pick out until only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.
Slide the pick above the front camera to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick near the right side of the front camera before continuing.

Step 13

Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the top-right corner of the device to completely separate the top adhesive.
Leave the pick in the top-right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 14

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 15

Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

Step 16

Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding once you reach three inches from the bottom of the iPad.

Step 17

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 18

Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.
Don't fully rotate the pick around the corner, as you may damage the antenna.
Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner before moving to the next step.

Step 19

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.
Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.
Only slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, as you may damage the antenna.
If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-left corner.
Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.

Step 20

Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the pick underneath the home button and towards the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.
Only insert the pick up to 1 mm to avoid damaging the right antenna.

Step 21

Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the home button to completely separate the bottom adhesive.
Only slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, as you may damage the antenna.
If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-right corner.
Leave the pick to the right of the home button before continuing.

Step 22

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 23

Be very careful with this step. Take your time, ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and make sure you separated all of the adhesive with a pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.
Twist the two opening picks on the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer slightly, separating the the last of the adhesive in the process.
If there's a significant amount of resistance, reheat the edges and work along them with an opening pick.

Step 24

Lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to further separate the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.

Step 25

While supporting the digitizer, slide an opening pick between the two display cables to separate the last of the adhesive.

Step 26

Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the digitizer like a book and rest it parallel to the iPad.
During reassembly, clean the remaining adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you're re-using it—with isopropyl alcohol. Replace the adhesive with our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
Be mindful of the display cables when reassembling the device. Make sure they are folded properly underneath the LCD screen to prevent any damage.

Step 27

Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.

Step 28

Remove the four Phillips screws securing the LCD:
Three 4.0 mm screws
One 4.8 mm screw

Step 29

Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.
Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.
Set the LCD down on a soft, clean, lint-free surface.

Pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were very hard to distinguish

dlcatftwin - 07/06/19

Step 30

Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
Make a battery blocker using a playing card and slide it underneath the logic board connector to disconnect the battery.
You can also use an iFixit battery blocker. Be very careful and don't push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force.
Leave the blocker there to prevent the battery connector leads from making contact until you have completed your repairs.

The could recommend me since I did not put the wedge first in the connection of the battery and it heated the logic card a couple of minutes, q´l recommend to solve it since it does not turn on

carlos renao - 04/12/16

The battery isolation pick didn’t come with my kit. I made my own using one of the regular picks and a pair of scissors.

Blair Miller - 09/12/16

Would it not be important to note that you are not really “disconnecting” the conduit of the battery from the logic board, but rather isolating the connection?

dlcatftwin - 08/06/19

@dlcatftwin I’m not sure I understand the distinction you’re making. You are fully disconnecting the battery, by opening the circuit and wedging a big insulator in there to keep it from closing again accidentally.

Jeff Suovanen - 13/06/19

Hello Jeff,

Thank you for responding. one may regard “disconnecting” as actually unplugging or unsocketing a cable connection as actually disconnecting, like in step 37. I could picture a person tugging on the pick thinking that the battery connector actually had to be lifted away from the board.

Probably over-thinking it! ;-)

Regards,

DLC

dlcatftwin - 15/06/19

@dlcatftwin 100% on point. That’s exactly why I’m reading this comment right now. I’ve never heard of a “Battery Isolation Pick” and I was trying to get the connector loose, before realizing it wasn’t coming easy and therefore reading the comments for more info.

Ergo, there is some confusion here that should be noted in the primary instructions.

Kyle Sankowicz - 09/05/20

Step 31

Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket.

The supplied screw driver bit really struggled with these screws.

Thomas Kaye - 08/08/18

Step 32

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board.
The display cable connector is adhered to the underside of the bracket, so don’t push the spudger too far under the bracket, or you may damage the connector.

My iPad Air2 is configured differently from that in these photos. The battery connector is next to the display cable connection, and the LCD/glass panel are integral, so that they lift out of the frame together.

Doug Pulling -

Step 33

Remove the LCD.

Step 34

Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.

Step 35

Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward.
Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

On reassembly take note of the flap lock on that connection. Sadly I failed to operate it correctly and now have a defunct home button.

Mussollini -

Step 36

Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to carefully pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets.
To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.

When reversing with the new screen , this was the hardest part for me.

The cables needs to fit under the LCD screen, and they kept going out of place when I tried to close the screen in the end.

That meant that I had to remove the LCD again with one hand while holding the digitizer/glass with the other - all while I had already exposed the adhesives.

OleTheill - 25/08/17

for me the cables of the new screen were longer that the old one. So even if i put everithing under the lcd, the digitizer didnt close properly. After everything was put back togheter, this side of the digitizer keep popping out.

Félix Naud - 22/07/18

I do have the same problem.

Anne - 07/04/20

In step 41 - what is the name of the connector in the first picture which he is trying to open

glen d'souza - 07/02/20

It is a ZIF socket. (Zero insertion force)

Zach -

Step 37

Remove the front panel assembly.
If the home button ribbon cable sticks to the iPad's rear case, don't try to force it. Gently peel it off the case using a pair of tweezers, and then you can fully remove the front panel assembly.
If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit panels come with the proper insulation, and should not require the addition of any tape.
Without the proper insulation, these areas of the digitizer can ground out against other components, causing touch input malfunction.
The insulation is not visible to the naked eye, and is different from the foam dust barrier strips found on many iPads.

After removing the glass, I'd suggest scraping off any remaining black adhesive off of the iPad's frame. Get every speck. This may be time consuming if you have lost glass integrity and have sticky, splintered shards around the edge of the frame, but you need the frame completely clean of adhesive before you put the new front panel down or else it won't lay correctly in the frame.

johnjustinirvine - 06/10/16

This was not as hard as I expected it. I think I was lucky since the adhesive wasn’t properly working anymore, and my display wasn’t too shattered. Took me a about 40 minutes to remove the display. Unfortunately I noticed that my battery had expanded so ordered a new one, waiting for it to arrive before I put it all back together.

Sebastian Graus - 27/04/19

Step 38

Use tweezers to peel and remove the piece of tape covering the SIM board cable connector on the logic board.

Step 39

Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the SIM board cable connector.
Slide the SIM board cable straight out of its ZIF connector.

Step 40

Remove the following screws securing the upper component cable bracket:
Two 2.0 mm Phillips screws
Three 1.4 mm Phillips screws

At this point you can carefully heat and pry up the battery cells, then heat under the board and lift it up enough to slide the battery out and slide the new battery in place.

chrisreed - 07/05/20

Step 41

Use tweezers to start peeling back the tape securing the upper component cable bracket.

Step 42

Slowly peel the upper component cable bracket up out of the iPad—leaving the tape pieces on the bracket to make it easier to reinstall.

Step 43

The following steps involve disconnecting many press connectors from their sockets on the logic board. When disconnecting these cables, be sure to pry up only on the connector, and not the socket itself.
Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera connector from its socket on the logic board.

Step 44

Slide an opening pick underneath the front-facing camera cable to break up the adhesive holding it in place.
Push the camera cable up with a spudger to reveal a second ribbon cable connector underneath.

Step 45

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently disconnect the headphone jack ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.
Again, carefully push this second ribbon cable aside to reveal more connectors underneath.

There is tape on the LTE model adhering this socket to the frame underneath.

superaustinooooo - 23/04/20

Step 46

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
Use the pointed tip of the spudger to disconnect the GPS antenna cable, directly to the right of the microphone cable connector.

Step 47

Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Step 48

Disconnect the antenna interconnect cable by lifting it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Step 49

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable from its socket on the logic board.

I accidentally broke the 's' interconnector. where can I buy the replace? Or can i use something similar ? F.e. old antenna in other iphone ? Thank you !

Niwre Wolf - 07/06/19

Step 50

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the primary cellular antenna connector from its socket on the logic board.

Step 51

Remove the 1.4 mm Phillips screw securing the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable bracket.

Step 52

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently fold the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable bracket up and out of the way.
The small, S-shaped interconnect cable remains attached to the bracket via a press connector on the underside of the bracket. If it disconnects accidentally, reconnect it by pressing it into place.

I accidentally broke the 's' interconnector. where can I buy the replace? Or can i use something similar ? F.e. old antenna in other iphone ? Thank you !

Niwre Wolf - 07/06/19

Step 53

Remove the piece of black tape covering the upper button assembly cable connector.

Step 54

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the upper button assembly cable connector.

Step 55

Use tweezers to carefully pull the upper button assembly ribbon cable straight out of its connector.
There is very little give on this cable, so you may need to apply a decent amount of force. Be sure you are pulling the cable straight back, and not upward against the connector.

Step 56

Disconnect the left and right Wi-Fi antenna cables by lifting them straight up from their sockets on the lower end of the logic board.
These sockets are fairly delicate. Be careful to apply pressure straight up so you don't shear the socket off the board.

Step 57

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the tape securing the right Wi-Fi antenna cable near the SIM board.
Peel carefully and pull up on the tape only—not the antenna cable, which will rip easily.
It may be helpful to fold the SIM board cable back slightly to better access the tape—but be careful not to damage the SIM board cable. If you need more clearance, remove the SIM board.

Step 58

Repeat the previous step to peel up a second piece of tape directly underneath, securing the left Wi-Fi antenna cable.
If you accidentally peeled up both pieces of tape together, carefully peel them apart and separate them before proceeding to the next step.

Step 59

Four additional pieces of tape secure the left Wi-Fi antenna near the lower edge of the iPad.
Peel the tape up from the rear case.
Fold the antenna cable out of the way.

Step 60

A bend in the speaker cable makes it difficult to peel the tape up from the end.
Instead, grip the tape just under the speaker and peel it down, away from the edge of the case.
Be careful with your tweezers—only grab and peel the tape, and not the cable beneath.

Step 61

Peel the tape toward the home button to uncover the speaker cable connector.
If necessary, as you peel the tape off the right speaker ribbon cable, use a spudger to hold the cable in place and prevent it from tearing.

Step 62

Continue peeling up the tape away until there is enough slack in the left speaker cable to disconnect it.
Do not completely remove the tape—it will be easier to replace if you leave a section still attached to the rear case.

Step 63

Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left speaker cable connector.
Disconnect the left speaker cable by pulling it straight out of its socket.

Step 64

Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector.
Disconnect the right speaker cable by pulling it straight out of its socket.

Step 65

Remove the two 3.3 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning connector to the rear case.

Step 66

In the next steps, you will use an iOpener to apply heat to the rear case of the iPad to soften adhesive holding the logic board in place.
As you reheat and place the iOpener in each of the indicated locations, leave it in place for at least a minute to soften the adhesive through the rear case.
The adhesive is in the form of seven strips of black tape—refer to this step as you work at heating and prying to keep track of where each piece is located.

Step 67

Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the bottom edge of the iPad to soften the adhesive securing the Lightning port ribbon cable to the rear case.
Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften, then move on to the next step.

Step 68

Slide the flat end of a spudger under the Lightning connector cable to break up the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
If necessary, push the left speaker cable gently aside to provide access to the Lightning connector cable.

Step 69

Lay a warm iOpener over the upper edge of the iPad and let it sit for a couple minutes to soften the adhesive holding the logic board in place.

Step 70

As you complete the next few steps, prying adhesive securing the logic board in place, always start by testing gently to see if the adhesive is softened. If not, reheat the iOpener and reapply it to the back of the rear case.
Carefully insert an opening pick under the logic board, between the front-facing camera and the battery.
Be sure to insert the pick over the the antenna cable that runs along the length of the battery.
Slide the guitar pick toward the front-facing camera connector, and stop at the bend in the logic board.

Step 71

Reheat your iOpener and lay it lengthways on the rear case, directly over the logic board.
Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften, then remove the iOpener and move on to the next step.

Step 72

Insert an opening pick underneath the logic board at the corner of the large EMI shield.
Slide the pick upwards until you reach the battery connector to break up the adhesive holding the logic board in place.

Step 73

Remove the battery isolation pick.
Insert a plastic card underneath the logic board at the battery connector.
Do not use excessive force when inserting this card under the logic board to prevent damaging its battery pins. If the logic board wont budge easily, try reheating the adhesive underneath with an iOpener.
As you push through the adhesive at the outer edge of the logic board, be careful not to damage the upper button assembly ribbon cable that you disconnected in Step 60. Position the card exactly as shown.
Slide the card all the way underneath the logic board, separating the adhesive along the outer edge.

Step 74

Insert a plastic card underneath the lower end of the logic board, directly underneath the display connectors and Wi-Fi module.

Step 75

Pull the Lightning connector straight out of its recess in the rear case.

Remove the two screws from the inside of the connector first!

George Fish -

Hi George, thanks for pointing that out. I believe the screws you’re talking about are removed in step 70, is that correct? Let us know if we missed some screws!

Adam O'Camb -

Step 76

Gently lift up on the logic board from its lower edge and remove the logic board.
When installing the logic board, check to make sure that each of the cable connectors you detached earlier is correctly routed over the top of the logic board before proceeding with reassembly.

iPad 5 LTE Logic Board Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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