iPad 6 Wi-Fi Left Speaker Replacement

Step 1

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 2

While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:
Front camera
Antennas
Display cables

Step 3

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the left edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 5

If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.
Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.

Step 6

Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
Don't worry if you can see the opening pick through the digitizer—just pull the pick out. The LCD screen shouldn't be damaged, but you risk leaving behind hard-to-clean adhesive.

Step 7

If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad to continue separating the adhesive.

Step 8

Slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 9

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 10

Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

Step 11

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just before you reach the front camera.
Avoid sliding the pick over the front camera, as you may damage the lens. The following steps will show how to prevent this.

Step 12

Pull the pick out until only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.
Slide the pick above the front camera to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick near the right side of the front camera before continuing.

Step 13

Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the top-right corner of the device to completely separate the top adhesive.
Leave the pick in the top-right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 14

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 15

Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

Step 16

Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding once you reach three inches from the bottom of the iPad.

Step 17

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 18

Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.
Don't fully rotate the pick around the corner, as you may damage the antenna.
Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner before moving to the next step.

Step 19

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.
Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.
Only slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, as you may damage the antenna.
If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-left corner.
Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.

Step 20

Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the pick underneath the home button and towards the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.
Only insert the pick up to 1 mm to avoid damaging the right antenna.

Step 21

Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the home button to completely separate the bottom adhesive.
Only slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, as you may damage the antenna.
If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-right corner.
Leave the pick to the right of the home button before continuing.

Step 22

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 23

Be very careful with this step. Take your time, ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and make sure you separated all of the adhesive with a pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.
Twist the two opening picks on the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer slightly, separating the the last of the adhesive in the process.
If there's a significant amount of resistance, reheat the edges and work along them with an opening pick.

Step 24

Lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to further separate the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.

Step 25

While supporting the digitizer, slide an opening pick between the two display cables to separate the last of the adhesive.

Step 26

Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the digitizer like a book and rest it parallel to the iPad.
During reassembly, clean the remaining adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you're re-using it—with isopropyl alcohol. Replace the adhesive with our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
Be mindful of the display cables when reassembling the device. Make sure they are folded properly underneath the LCD screen to prevent any damage.

Step 27

Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.

Step 28

Remove the four Phillips #00 4.3 mm screws securing the LCD.

Both of the iPad 6th gen models i have seen so for (note they were cellular also) had the LCD secured with a grey silicone kind of adhesive in each corner under the screws. So you can’t just lift the LCD as you normally would after removing screws, it would break. I found you could pick at the corner closest to the rear camera easiest, slightly lift that corner and gently separate the other side next to the headphone jack. Then while supporting the LCD , lever the other end free with a up-and-down motion making slight progress each time.

Anvil Electronics - 29/06/18

I found the same thing on my 32GB wifi only ipad. Was unable to lift the screen off once I’d removed the screws so followed the instructions above and gently prized the screen up from the top left-hand screw bracket and it came away. Then moved onto the top right hand one.

mann134 - 03/11/19

One YouTube video said to dig all that glue out. I didn’t and it seems to not hurt to leave it there but you do have to break free from it.

Robin - 02/10/20

On my iPad 6, there were small rubber tabs covering the two screws on the front camera side. I carefully held them out of place with tweezers while unscrewing the screws.

Martin Winter -

Step 29

Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers. There may be glue around the screw holes that needs to be cut with a knife.
Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.
Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.
Set the LCD down on a soft, clean, lint-free surface.

When you replace the LCD be sure to make sure it is screwed in fully. It is easy not, especially on the cornet where the digitizer cables are. The LCD is very sensitive and if you bend it then it can stop working. I was just pressing the digitized in place at the end of a repair and the screen was covered in white lines.

hugh -

Step 30

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Step 31

Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
To reduce the risk of a short, you can use a battery isolation pick to disconnect the battery.
Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
Don't push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force. If you're having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, you can try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card ideally should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages. After insertion, it should rest at a 15 degree angle.
Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

If you insert a regular pick without a gap then you can damage this connector and will need a new motherboard. If in doubt just insert into the left corner enough to raise it a tiny bit. Arguably, if you are not sure, then it is safer just power off and don’t power back on until everything is fully connected. A photo of how this connector looks with its cover off would really help for people that have not seen this type of battery connector before. You just need to get it to lift a tiny bit, Do not try to slide anything under the contacts….

hugh - 06/07/20

I bumped this darn thing several times, it was twisted and skewed making me freak out but the iPad still works. I am thinking you should pull it out and put the screw back in right after the LCD is removed. Then use it again just before putting the LCD screen back in. The pick is sticking out there waitng to be be bumped.

Robin - 02/10/20

Hi Robin,

Unfortunately, there is no easy way to pull the battery connector out of the logic board. If you try to pry this connector off, you will irreparably damage it. The easiest solution is to insert the battery blocker in-between to cut the power.

Arthur Shi - 02/10/20

The battery isolation pick or battery blocker is an outdated way of isolating the battery, as you risk damaging the battery pins underneath the logic board.

So what is the new method?

Wil Thieme - 05/12/20

This is my question as well. Seems like this phrase contradicts the instructions. Confusing. Any reply?

Melissa Hoffman - 25/01/21

We are currently working on a better isolation procedure! In the meantime, I’ve updated the warning to hopefully clarify the issue.

Arthur Shi - 26/01/21

Why do you need to “To reduce the risk of a short”? There does not seem to by any risk of a “short” in this process. I can see other reasons for disconnecting the battery. I am an electrical engineer so I would appreciate a professional grade answer to this question.

Rumboogy - 08/04/21

I’ll give it a shot!

When you remove the screw, it doesn’t disconnect the battery, as the connector uses spring contacts to touch the battery pads.

If you leave the battery connected, it leaves the logic board energized. As there are many exposed traces and SMT components on the logic board, there is a chance that you accidentally bridge a trace with a metal tool, resulting damage. In addition, the display connector contains tiny pins, and the pinout is such that if you pry the connector from an energized logic board, there is a chance that a voltage rail pin may accidentally touch something it shouldn’t, blowing out the backlight circuitry.

Arthur Shi - 09/04/21

My battery was dead when i did the repair. Did not really need to perform this step

Igor Kapitanker -

Take a waterproof playing card, cut out the shape of the battery blocker and slide that under. Battery blocked and pins not at risk of damage. Got that from a YouTube video made by a microsolder repair tech fixing the damage caused by jamming a blocker in between the contacts.

Melody Fraysier -

Thanks for the tip Melody! I’ve updated the instructions to include the playing card method.

Arthur Shi -

I could not for the life of me get the playing card in there, but my iPad was turned off, so I decided to ‘risk’ a short, instead of potentially damaging the battery connectors by jamming the card in there as hard as possible. My repair went fine, no short, however I realized AFTER closing everything up that I forgot to put the battery screw back in. Really hoping this doesn’t become an issue long term, because I don’t want to pry this brand new screen off just to put the battery in.

Janie Hughes -

Let us know! I wasn't able to use the screw again after removing the battery blocker. Now my iPad turns off and on every so many minutes and when it restarts it's 1% and then shows actual charge.

Martin Hinojosa -

When you come to screw this back together, do not overestimate how little force it takes to strip the thread on this #000 screw. I did, and I now I can't screw this back down and have the problem where the iPad restarts every 3 mins 20 sec after you turn it on due to a poor connection here. I've used card to pack this out so the LCD puts a little clamping force on the terminal once you screw it back in, but it's not really enough so the iPad still suddenly restarts occasionally.

Rory Condon - 09/02/23

Step 32

Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the display cable bracket.

I believe these are also Phillips #00, not Phillips #000.

Kevin Chatterton II - 10/02/20

I lost a 1.4mm screw where can I buy these small screws and how big are they? 1.4mm x? flared or flat head

ferdinando.gregis@gmail.com - 08/05/20

Is this part important? It seems like I lost it.

Will - 07/07/20

Step 33

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board.
The display cable connector is adhered to the underside of the bracket, so don’t push the spudger too far under the bracket, or you may damage the connector.

Step 34

Remove the LCD.

Step 35

Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.

Step 36

Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward.
Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

I'm confused about the home flex cable connector required for the 6th generation iPad. It was my understanding that this model required an 18 pin connector. But these excellent pictures clearly show a 14 pin connector, just like the one for the first generation iPad Air AKA the iPad 5. I know this is not the primary focus of this guide, but can anyone clarify this for me?

Bonnie Baxter - 31/03/21

I did the whole repair but this part is the problem HELP !!! I unlocked it but it took me 1 hour to carefully pull out the HOME BUTTON RIBBON CABLE. It finally came out with tweezers but now I CAN'T GET IT BACK IN and as a result my touch I.D. won't activate. It seems there was a tiny bit of black tape overlapping the connector on the ribbon which I carefully cut off exposing only the connector on the ribbon itself but how the heck does it slide in before you lock it. It seems easy on Youtube videos but mine just doesn't slide in with hand or with tweezers. OR in fact is there another connector that controls the TOUCH I.D. ???

Just a guy -

Step 37

Use a the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to carefully pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets.
To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.
During reassembly, make sure that these connectors are completely seated in their sockets, or you may encounter display issues.

Where can I get a good used motherboard for a A1954 iPad 6 gen everywhere I look, there sold out ?...

Trent Weaver - 22/03/21

Step 38

Carefully peel the home button ribbon cable up off of the adhesive holding it to the rear case.

If you can make sure to not pull on the home button side, i would leave out this step. i replaced two displays so far, on the first i removed it, but left it connected on the second attempt. worked like a charm

Tommy Wienert -

Step 39

Remove the front panel assembly.
If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit panels come with the proper insulation, and should not require the addition of any tape.
Without the proper insulation, these areas of the digitizer can ground out against other components, causing touch input malfunction.
The insulation is not visible to the naked eye, and is different from the foam dust barrier strips found on many iPads.

Step 40

Insert a spudger under the right antenna cable closest to the edge of the iPad and lift upward to disconnect the antenna cable connector.

Haven't you switched iPad models from step 43 to step 44? The arrangement of the connectors on the top of the motherboard looks distinctly different. I know that is probably not relevant to removal of the antenna, but it is a bit confusing. I'm not even sure that steps 1 to 43 all use the same model - to be specific, the two digitizer cable connectors are in some cases parallel and identical, and in others they appear parallel but different, and in some it even appears that the identical connectors are perpendicular to each other,, with something else in the position where the upper digitizer cable would connect on the other model…perhaps some pictures are of the Wi-Fi only model and some are the LTE model? But I don't see any SIM connectors on any of the boards…I'm confused.

Bonnie Baxter - 30/12/20

Step 41

There are two large pieces of tape wrapped around the right antenna cable, covering the left antenna cable's tape.
Peel the tape up from the rear case.

Step 42

Insert a spudger under the left antenna cable, the connector farthest from the edge of the iPad. Lift upward to disconnect the antenna cable connector.

Step 43

There are six pieces of tape wrapped around the left antenna cable, securing it to the rear case.
Use tweezers to gently peel up each piece of tape, freeing the antenna cable as you go.

Step 44

There is a bracket crimped onto the antenna cable that is adhered to the speaker enclosure. The adhesive must be severed in order to extract the antenna.
Carefully insert an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket.
Slide the pick to the right to cut the adhesive.
Push the bracket away from the speaker to clear it of the tape under it.

Step 45

Remove the following Phillips #000 screws:
Two 1.4 mm screws
One 2.3 mm screw

Step 46

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly.
Slide the spudger toward the home button recess to cut the foam adhesive securing the antenna.