iPhone 11 Battery Replacement

Written By: Jeff Suovanen

Comments: 23

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

iPhone batteries degrade with use—over time, they lose their ability to hold a full charge. Apple's batteries are rated to hold 80% of their capacity for up to 500 charge cycles, which lasts roughly 18-24 months for most users. When your battery's chemistry is degraded, it may also cause your iPhone to run more slowly. Use this guide to replace your battery and restore your iPhone 11 to full performance.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Note: After the repair, your iPhone may display a warning about the “genuineness” of the battery, even when using original Apple parts. If your iPhone functions normally, you can safely ignore the warning.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

You'll need replacement adhesive in order to complete this repair.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

the right screws wouldn’t come off

Yusef San Inocencio - 19/04/21

Hello guys, I still haven't found away to power off the iphone without using the screen. Cheers!

danielaguirre93 -

You can try this.

Quickly Press and release the volume up button.

then Quickly Press and release the volume down button.

then press and hold the power button and wait until it turns off.

worked for me :D

Benóný Egilson -

Step 2

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute.

Step 3

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

where do i get this from g

Sami Pala -

Here: iSclack

Athanasius Pernath - 02/12/22

Step 5

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cup to stick. Alternatively, you can use very sticky tape instead of the suction cup. Or if all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Step 6

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

This turned out to be the most difficult part for me. My old ifixit suction cup didn't suck hard enough to generate enough force to pry the display from the case. I ended up applying heat at least a dozen times, and I had to pull up on the suction cup forcefully over and over and over while repositioning it several times. I finally had success inserting my pick into the tiny gap after 30 or so rapid tugs on the suction cup.

matthew r -

Step 7

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Step 8

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

Step 9

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Gently pull the right edge of the display down slightly (in the direction of the Lightning port).
Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.

Step 10

Continue pulling the display down (toward the Lightning port) as needed in order to make a gap large enough for the pick.
Slide the pick to the top left corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the Face ID sensor array.

Step 11

Pull the small nub on the suction cup to detach it from the front panel.

azertuiopsdk

le français -

Step 12

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Prop the display up against something sturdy.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

Step 13

To access the screws in the following step, tilt the display by slightly lifting its lower edge.
Be careful not to strain or tear the display cables.

Step 14

Use a Y000 driver to remove the three 1.1 mm-long screws securing the battery connector bracket.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

During reassembly, I had to connect my phone to the charger before it would power up.

Austin Culberson -

Step 15

Remove the bracket.

Step 16

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally contacting the socket.

Step 17

Use a Y000 driver to remove the five 1.1 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.

Step 18

Remove the bracket.

Step 19

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD panel cable connector.
Disconnect the digitizer connector next to it.

Step 20

Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

Step 21

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

After this step its probably a good idea to test the new screen (you dont have to plug in the front camera assembly)

Richard Kraus - 16/04/21

Not a technician, so correct me if I'm wrong: I think that it's at this step of reassembly (before you reattach the screen) that you apply waterproof glue, if you have it.

Athanasius Pernath -

Step 22

Using a Phillips driver, remove the five screws securing the bracket below the Taptic engine and speaker:
Four 1.6 mm screws
One 1.3 mm screw

The top right screw (1.6 mm marked red) is actually different from the other three 1.6mm screws as it's thread is slightly thicker.

Florian -

yep same experience here

Kai Mcpherson -

Step 23

Remove the lower bracket.

Step 24

Use tweezers to lift and remove the black tape and rubber pad covering the Taptic Engine connector.
Use a little heat from a hair dryer or iOpener to make the tape easier to peel up and re-adhere later.

Step 25

Remove the five screws securing the speaker and brackets:
One 1.9 mm Phillips screw
One 2.3 mm Phillips screw
One 3.1 mm standoff screw
Two 1.6 mm Phillips screws

In my experience, the two green screws are not interchangeable

PJ McConnell -

Step 26

Remove the small grounding clip on the top right corner of the speaker.

Salut comment je peux trouver cette pièce ?

kenyfaya973 - 25/12/20

Step 27

Remove the Taptic Engine connector cover.

Step 28

Lift and push aside the small board covering the remaining speaker screw in the bottom right corner of the iPhone.
Remove the 2.4 mm standoff screw underneath.

Step 29

Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker, near the edge of the iPhone's case.
Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.

Step 30

Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.

Step 31

Remove the speaker.
Optionally, to help protect against water and dust intrusion, replace the speaker's adhesive gasket during reassembly:
Peel away any remaining adhesive with tweezers.
Prep the area underneath by cleaning it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter so that the gasket adheres properly.
Install a new gasket onto the speaker, and then install the speaker.

It seems that a bracket which held a screw to the charging port is holding the part to the phone even though adhesive and all screws are removed, not sure why but I can't remove the speaker. I had this same problem with another bracket of the speaker which held a screw but ripped it off the lower speaker part as i couldn't get it unattached from the screw port. All screws and adhesive were removed, I don't understand what is wrong

Daniel Frey -

Step 32

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 1.8 mm screws securing the Taptic Engine.

Step 33

Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

Step 34

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Step 35

Six pieces of stretch-release adhesive hold the battery in place—three near the top edge, and three near the bottom.
Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at one end, which is lightly adhered and folded onto the top of the battery.

Step 36

Peel back the three battery adhesive pull tabs from the bottom edge of the battery.
Be careful not to jab the battery with any sharp tools—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.

Step 37

In the following steps, you'll pull each tab to slowly stretch out the adhesive underneath the battery. The adhesive releases as it stretches.
If the strips break, don't panic! Keep reading for some additional steps for removing broken strips.
To increase your odds of success:
Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
Keep the strips flat and unwrinkled as you pull.
Pull very slowly, giving the strip time to stretch and separate. It takes around 30 seconds of stretching to remove each strip.
Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag along the bottom edge of the battery.
If a strip does break off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, move on to the other strips and then continue with the additional steps below.

Step 38

Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, towards the bottom of the iPhone.
Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case.
The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.
If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the other strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

Step 39

Repeat the above steps to remove the other two adhesive strips near the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Step 40

Peel back the three battery adhesive tabs from the top edge of the battery.
Don't touch the Face ID sensor modules near the top of the iPhone.

Step 41

Pull the top adhesive strips out one at a time, using the same method you've used to pull the bottom strips.
Be sure to hold onto the battery as you remove the final strip, or it may fling out of the iPhone unexpectedly.
If you removed all of the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
If any of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

Step 42

If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, remove it by adding a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) underneath the battery near the stuck strip(s).
After about a minute, gently lift the battery.
The battery should come free with minimal force. If not, add a little more isopropyl alcohol and try again. Do not bend or puncture the battery.

Step 43

If your battery is stuck and an appropriate liquid solvent is not available, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch, but no more.
Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.
Wear gloves to protect your fingers, or wrap each end of the string around a tool.
Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.
Start from the top or bottom edge of the battery, and pull toward the middle. Don't pull the string through the middle third of the battery, or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath.
If you choose to use pry tools to lift the battery out of the iPhone, use extreme caution or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.

Step 44

Remove the battery.
Reinstall the Taptic Engine and speaker before installing a new battery. This helps keep the battery aligned correctly during installation.
Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the motherboard socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.
Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.
Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.

Author

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 06/08/13

406808 Reputation

8 comments

Also, it would be nice to have a step by step of how to reprogram the new battery to bypass the “non-genuine warning”

Olamide Olayinka -

I have been looking for a solution for this! Seems the only way is to remove the BMS board from the original battery. Requires soldering.

Mohammad Ali -

Yea. There's a step by step guide on how to do just that here

Joseftech -

Apple specifically does this to prevent 3rd parties from repairing their products. A Simple google search would have yielded this.

Brian Kennally -

La guida consiglia di rimuovere molte parti, in realtà basta solo rimuovere lo schermo ed acquistare una batteria già assemblata.

Io personalmente o impiegato 45 minuti andando molto lento e molto attento alle mie operazioni.

mario giorno -

When opening up a phone, why doesn't ifixit recommend to use a static electricity grounding wrist band since such charge can damage phone electronics if not grounded? (Apple technicians use such).

How come ifixit does not give advice after a battery change how to reprogramme the phone to its full functioning capability since some are lost when a battery is replaced? (Apple technicians include this service in a battery change).

What are the statistics on after market batteries not performing as good as OEM parts and what are statistics where such after market batteries harm the phone? All batteries are made in China but Apple endorsed battery makers are required to adhere to strict standards.

L D -

Just noticed on the video at 6:02-6:03 the screw is being screwed into the wrong hole on the speaker and at the wrong stage

Also keeping the black rubber pad cover the tactic engine connector should be mentioned earlier in the video

Apart from that - great video

Ian -

Thanks for this guide! I successfully replaced/upgraded my wife's battery. She'd had this phone for 2+ years and it was time. Replaced it with one of the increased capacity batteries available on Amazon. Removing the old and installing the new battery was easier than I thought it would be. Opening the dang thing was the hardest part.

matthew r -