Google Pixel 2 Rückkamera austauschen

Geschrieben von: Blake Klein

Kommentare: 70

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

1 - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung wurde von iFixit-Mitarbeiter:innen verfasst und ist keine offizielle Reparaturanleitung von Google. Hier erfährst du mehr über unsere Qualitätsstandards.

Diese Anleitung zeigt dir, wie du die Rückkamera austauschen kannst. Diese Reparatur ist umfangreich und erfordert den kompletten Ausbau der Hauptplatine.

Hinweis: Einige Bilder in der Anleitung zeigen das Smartphone mit bereits ausgebautem Akku. Für diese Reparatur ist dies allerdings nicht nötig.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Schritt 1

Wenn dein Displayglas zerbrochen ist, dann klebe es mit Klebeband ab. Dadurch werden die Glassplitter zusammengehalten und du vermeidest Verletzungen. Außerdem haftet der Saugheber besser an einer glatten Oberfläche.
Bringe den Saugheber so nahe wie möglich an der Kante nahe den Lautstärketasten an, vermeide aber den abgerundeten Bereich.
Der Saugheber hält im abgerundeten Bereich der Glasscheibe nicht gut.

My screen is severly cracked. I would recommend clear packaging tape as it is wide enough to accomodate the suction cup. Thinner cellophane tape won’t seal properly.

John Tippitt - 18/08/20

Does the Google Pixel 2 have be powered off before removing the digitizer screen? Its not mentioned in this article...

Will the phone be damaged if the power is still on when disconnecting the broken screen?

Alex -

Replacing the battery in my Pixel 2 was successful because I read the comments. They are invaluable in this endeavor.

David Castro -

Suggest procedure revision:

Step 1: Read all steps and associated comments before proceeding.

Step 2: Ensure they supplied you with the right F$%^ING TOOLS in the kit before proceeding.

I'm F$%^ED because any store around me that might have this T4 Torx bit is already closed and my screen is already off. My kit came with a T2 Torx bit which is not used anywhere in this entire process.

Jens Davidsen -

I bought one of the kits and it had everything needed to change the battery except the alcohol, including spudgers, screwdriver, torx (2 sizes), tweezer, alcohol dispenser, glue strips and die-cut glue card that fit the phone case perfectly. I followed these instructions and read the comments. Applied alcohol and patience, took my time and got the job done without any damage to the phone. Thank you ifixit!

Jeffrey Price -

Schritt 2

Ziehe den Saugheber gleichmäßig und fest hoch und setze ein Plektrum zwischen Frontscheibe und Rückgehäuse ein.
Setze das Plektrum nicht tiefer als 1,5 mm ein, sonst riskierst du Beschädigungen am OLED-Panel.
Du brauchst dafür viel Geduld und musst recht kräftig ziehen. Wenn es nicht gut geht, dann rüttele am Saugheber und der Scheibe, damit der Klebstoff geschwächt wird. Du kannst die Scheibe auch mit einem iOpener, einem Heißluftgebläse oder einem Haartrockner erwärmen.
Die Displayscheibe ist zerbrechlich. Wenn du das Display weiterverwenden möchtest, solltest du darauf achten, dass du das Werkzeug zum Auftrennen des Klebers nur soweit wie nötig einführst. Wenn du das Werkzeug zu tief einsteckst, kann das OLED-Panel unter der Glascheibe beschädigt werden.

They cannot emphasize enough how careful you need to be when separating the screen. The iOpener does not work well enough to prevent breakage (opinion). I spent a majority of the hour and forty five minutes replacing my battery on removing the screen, i.e. reheating the iOpener, warming the device, slowly, with multiple passes, separating the adhesive. Use a heat gun or blow dryer.

Devin McMillen - 10/10/19

How many passes do I need? I do have a heatgun but I’m afraid to discolor or damage the screen. Anyone know the best temp before stopping to seperate the screen?

Sen Lin - 05/12/19

try the alcohol as instructed instead of heat. “Do not heat your phone. If needed, you can use a dropper or syringe to inject isopropyl alcohol (90+%) around the edges of the back cover to weaken the adhesive. “

Rogerio Sa - 15/01/20

Make sure to remove the adhesive under the top and bottom speakers to make it much easier to remove the screen.

Chibi Chica - 09/08/20

Isopropyl alcohol works well to loosen the adhesive. However - GO SLOW. Slide the pick a bit, then apply some isopropyl alcohol into the gap where you’re sliding toward. Wait a moment, then slide a bit more. Move very slowly, particularly around the corners!

Raquel Smith - 12/08/20

Any idea on what to do when the suction cup pops off of the screen before there’s enough clearance to slide the pick in?

Douglas Leenhouts - 15/08/20

I used a hairdryer to weaken the adhesive. If you place your finger in the path of the hairdryer you’ll have a good idea of when too much heat has been applied (when your skin becomes unhappy at the temperature). BE VERY GENTLE. I cracked my screen because I didn’t weaken the adhesive enough. I also chipped(dog eared) the corner of the OLED screen underneath with one of the plastic tools. Don’t stick it in too far. As the guide says, use the flat edge or the pick to help control this.

Alex Lawson - 21/09/20

I did the 90% alcohol and the iOpener. Took a while but finally got the screen off. As others have mentioned, there is lots of adhesive around the top and bottom speaker openings. I ended up reaching in with a small brush and more alcohol to get it. I used a tooth pick to break the final adhesive.

I also had a set of dental tools and a set of magnifying goggles (I’m a model railroader) which helped greatly.

John Reagan - 14/03/21

Like others have said, THIS STEP IS THE MOST DANGEROUS!!! You must be extremely gentle (no real force should be necessary to separate the screen from the glue) with the screen and take your time. (IMO if it takes you less than 30 mins to get the screen loose, your going too hard at it). Two suggestions from my successful battery replacement that I can give, use alcohol instead of heat (seems to work better with this phone) and start with a much thinner plastic tool that is also flexible (I used a metro card from the NYC MTA). This will allow you to get at the tiny gap without using any significant force and then get some alcohol into the gap by dripping it down the thin plastic tool. Honestly, IFIXIT should make a small thin rectangular card to use for this with lines around it for measurements…

Aleksandr Demidenko - 14/03/21

The first pry to get the pick inside the edge of the screen needs A LOT OF HEAT and a very firm pull, and just as someone else mentioned, the iOpener did not work well, instead, a regular hair dryer proved more beneficial in applying a controlled amount of heat until its almost too hot to touch. Then, once the pick is inside 99% isopropyl alcohol worked wonders, use a syringe or dropper to apple some at the edge, wait for about 15 seconds and move the pick centimetre by centimetre. Make sure to not insert it more than 2mm at the sides. I took more than an hour just to get the screen off.

A Sid -

As an experienced (1) screen remover, I’d recommend that if you don’t plan to change your screen, change your plans. You will be less disappointed that way. I managed to get mine for just over $10 with shipping and test it first (weak Battery). Pixel 3’s (Not 3a or XL) sure look a lot better now. They have removable backs. My pixel 1st gen was a cheap lesson. Looking for another cheap one to try alcohol on.

Scott Graham -

Used a hairdryer on medium heat (very warm but not burning hot), suction cup, and applied isopropyl alcohol into crack made when applying pressure. Rinse and repeat until loosened enough to get a pick in. Took many attempts. Don't try to force the pick in, as you could chip the edge of the thin glass of screen this way. The suction cup pressure and weakened adhesive should do the work. Once the pick gets it, you can work a little faster but did the same basic steps minus needing the suction cup anymore, working around the edges. Good lighting is a must to see the crack forming.

Arthur Kay - 18/12/22

I have to disagree with folks who said this is the longest step of the whole process...for me...the longest step was having to drive around and find a T4 Torx bit because this kit came with a T2 Torx which proved absolutely USELESS...

The screen came off very easily with the liberal application of 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. Took around 15min to get the screen off and I hardly had to use picks except for the top and bottom.

That Torx bit though... F$%^ED ME

Jens Davidsen -

Schritt 3

In den folgenden Schritten musst du besonders aufpassen, damit das Smartphone in bestimmten Bereichen keinen Schaden nimmt:
Setze das Plektrum nicht tiefer als 9 mm an der Unterkante des Smartphones ein. Wenn das Plektrum den gebogenen Bereich des OLED Panels berührt, kann dieses beschädigt werden.
In der oberen linken Ecke darfst du nur sehr knappe Schnitte führen, wenn du tiefer hineinkommst, kann die Frontkamera beschädigt werden.
Wenn das Öffnungswerkzeug an den Seiten des Gerätes tiefer als 1,5 mm, an der Ober- und Unterseite tiefer als 9 mm eingestzt wird, kann das Display dauerhaft beschädigt werden.

This is inaccurate. The Pixel 2 phone’s back comes in two parts: a plastic main section and a glass back upper section. Only the glass section is required to be removed to replace the camera. Once the glass back is removed, the camera can easily be replaced without removing the motherboard, battery, or any other components. What is picture here looks like the original Google Pixel Phone.

hunter alden - 19/08/20

Firstly, I disagree with hunter’s comment above - my Pixel 2 looked identical to this when I had it opened up.

Secondly, the whole thing about 1.5mm at the sides - literally scared the cr*p out of me when I started this as it’s such a tiny margin - but what this doesn’t say is that you can see these limits on your phone - just turn the screen on and it’s where the display ends - the digitiser starts there and is a couple of mm deep - hence the need to be careful. You can also see it (though less obviously) when you have the screen off - the jet black part at the edge is where the adhesive is - just make sure you don’t push in past there. It’s not like you can’t make very gentle contact with the digitiser when clearing the adhesive - I believe it’s just any kind of real pressure which will render the screen useless.

Dave Watts - 17/10/20

I think it would be helpful to highlight the adhesive patches around the microphone/speaker areas and that you do need to project your pick in quite a distance to break this adhesive. I think simply creating a highlighted tracing of all of the adhesive areas would be helpful and pretty simple to do. It is shown to some extent, but in my opinion it could be more clear. In all of the prefaced concerns for digging too deep, I spent extra time and effort carefully prying upward and cracked my screen and OLED rendering my phone useless. Eventually I decided to probe more deeply toward the mic/speaker and broke things loose which allowed me to remove the screen easily.

Matt Escher - 22/02/21

Yes your right. I didn't e that and I disassembly the scree from it's digitiser layer. If i would know in advanced the adhesive borders it wouldn't happened.

Ronen Stolarski -

I took my time but a few times I slipped in more than I wanted. No harm. The bottom is the more tricky. The adhesive around the bottom opening goes right up against the ribbon cable for the screen. I got the edges unglued with alcohol & iOpener. I then gently pried the screen away and reached in with a small brush and more alcohol. I then used a toothpick to break the last pieces of adhesive.

John Reagan - 14/03/21

Besides the adhesive at the edges, there are 2 rectangular shaped adhesive patches at the top (around the speaker) and bottom (around the microphone). These are pretty thick, but can be easily chipped away with the pick. You start to see these as you gently lift the screen upwards with the suction cup and peer inside (use a flashlight). I did not need to use a heat gun or blow dryer. Just the pick and some isopropyl alcohol.

Hasan Akhter - 18/04/21

Use isopropyl alcohol with a syringe at the top and bottom speaker to weaken the adhesive, gently pull apart (about 2mm) and use a finer piece of plastic (like a milky file plastic sheet) to cut through the adhesive at the speakers, but still do not take the screen off completely yet! After extensively reading about failed attempts to get the screen off (instances where people damaged the OLED underneath) one thing is in common: few devices have little adhesive underneath the ribbon cable as well, which people failed to notice and while separating the screen and in turn, damaged the OLED because of the pull from the ribbon cable. Thanks to having this information beforehand I found the same issue in my phone after I separated the screen (not completely) from the frame, I used a piece of finer sheet of plastic to cut the adhesive holding the ribbon cable. You will have to be extremely patient and take your time.

A Sid -

Word of warning - it is incredibly easy to slip and damage the ribbon cable at the back of the screen (where it folds over on the left in the image)! I accidentally did this removing the screen on my phone and it killed the touch functionality.

Joshua -

Schritt 4

Verwende beim nächsten Schritt anstatt der Spitze den flachen Teil des Plektrums. Das hilft, um mit dem Plektrum nicht zu tief in das Smartphone einzudringen.
Ziehe das Plektrum an der rechte Seite des Smartphones nach oben, um den Displayklebstoff aufzutrennen.
Sei an den seitlichen Blenden besonders vorsichtig, sie sind nur 1,5 mm breit.

Schritt 5

Ziehe nun das Plektrum um die rechte obere Ecke und weiter entlang der oberen Kante des Smartphones.
Der Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher am oberen Displayrand ist mit einem Gitter überdeckt. Wenn du kein Ersatzgitter hast, dann achte darauf, dass du dieses Bauteil nicht beschädigst oder verlierst.

Leaving one pick inserted at each corner will help prevent it from sticking back.

A Sid -

Schritt 6

Ziehe das Plektrum um die linke obere Ecke und weiter an der linken Kante des Smartphones nach unten.

Schritt 7

Ziehe nun das Plektrum weiter um die untere linke Ecke und weiter entlang der unteren Kante. Halte das Plektrum leicht schräg zum Display, um Schäden an den Ecken des OLEDs zu vermeiden.
Setze das Plektrum nicht tiefer als 9 mm ein, damit das OLED-Panel nicht beschädigt wird.

Schritt 8

Setze das Plektrum nun erneut an der oberen Kante ein und heble vorsichtig das Display hoch.
Falls das Display sich nicht ohne Weiteres lösen lässt, musst du noch etwas mehr hebeln, damit sich der restliche Kleber auch noch löst. In der Nähe des oberen Lautsprechers ist dieser dicker als an anderen Stellen.
Versuche noch nicht das Display komplett vom Smartphone zu trennen, da es noch durch ein sehr empfindliches Flachbandkabel mit der Hauptplatine verbunden ist.

This for me was by far the hardest step. What this guide fails to say is just how much adhesive you’ll encounter - mine was heaving with the stuff - so I wouldn’t attempt this fix without the rubbing alcohol, and I would be prepared to spend 30 mins on this - the images above make it look like as soon as you can get the pick in and around the whole phone the display will come off - this wasn’t true on mine, and I put a small crack in the top of my screen as I applied a little pressure to lever the top - the edges were ok, but there was so much adhesive at the top and bottom - right down and around the speaker grills - that I used scissors to cut the remaining strands as I managed to lift the screen higher enough! Don’t be shy with the rubbing alcohol, it really helps - and you really need to feel all sides loosen properly before you attempt to lever - but if you’re patient, it’ll be ok.

Dave Watts - 17/10/20

agree, way more adhesive at top and bottom than guide implies. go really slow on sides with thin plastic but top and bottom speaker needs a bigger dig

Erik Sorensen -

Schritt 9

Lege das Display nun vorsichtig wie abgebildet auf das Rückgehäuse und achte darauf, dass das Displayflachbandkabel nicht geknickt oder abgerissen wird.
Entferne die zwei 4,0 mm T5 Torx-Schrauben, mit denen die Displaykabelhalterung befestigt ist.
Halte während der gesamten Reparatur die Schrauben gut geordnet und achte darauf, dass jede an ihren ursprünglichen Platz zurück kommt.

I cannot imagine how much easier this project would be if they provided the bit for this screw and the others of the same size. The torx bit included in my kit is a 2mm - entirely useless here. Only other bits are Philips...also pretty useless...

Jens Davidsen -

Schritt 10

Entferne die Displaykabelhalterung.

Schritt 11

Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Displaykabelstecker nach oben zu klappen und aus seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine zu ziehen.
Vermeide es, die Hauptplatine mit der Spudgerspitze zu berühren. Die Teile um den Anschluss herum sind sehr empfindlich.
Um Press-fit Verbinder wie diesen wieder anzubringen, richte diesen vorsichtig aus und drücke auf einer Seite nach unten bis er einrastet. Wiederhole das Ganze auf der anderen Seite. Drücke nicht auf die Mitte, denn falls der Stecker falsch ausgerichtet ist, können sich die Stifte verbiegen und dauerhafte Schäden verursachen.
Sollte nach der Reperatur das Display in gewissen Bereichen nicht auf Berührungen reagieren, setze diesen Stecker erneut ein und achte darauf, dass sich kein Staub oder anderen Fremdkörper in der Buchse befinden und der Anschluss richtig einrastet.
Halte beim Zusammenbau an dieser Stelle an und erneuere die Klebestreifen an den Kanten des Displays.

Wow, I think I damaged my motherboard on this step. It would be helpful if there was a warning in this step to avoid doing that! Now my pixel 2 is reduced to a cool paperweight with a static display.

Zach Laporte - 07/12/20

Yep, there’s a small surface mounted component below the connector that is super easy to dislodge from the circuit board. Shown in this YouTube video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BEpgqpI.... Unfortunately, the part is smaller than a grain of sand, so not really practical for the average fixer to put back on the board.

jlyonsmith - 09/03/21

I also knocked the tiny chip off of the board while removing the ribbon cable in this step. Use the spudger exactly how it’s shown in the photos.

John Ware - 25/03/21

A spudger is the wrong tool to remove the video connector. You cannot see where you are poking with that tool and I wound up dislodging one of the surface mounted devices hidden by the connector and ruining the phone. I also broke a ground path near the corner of the middle frame that is not mentioned in this repair procedure. Watch this YouTube before you begin disassembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKULr67Z...

jamesdrobinson -

None of the tools provided in the repair kit seemed slim enough to fit the space required to pry this up. I ended up using a thin / flimsy plastic health care card to get under and pry up. It popped up with enough pressure.

Arthur Kay -

Schritt 12

Lege zwei Minuten lang einen erwärmten iOpener auf den Näherungssensor an der Oberkante des Mittelrahmens, so dass seine Klebeverbindung aufgeweicht wird.

Isopropyl alcohol worked quickly for this

Raquel Smith - 12/08/20

Schritt 13

Schiebe die Spudgerspitze unter das Kabel des Näherungssensors, fange damit an der Seite in der Nähe der Frontkamera an.
Hebe das Sensorkabel vorsichtig an der Kante an, bis der Sensor rechtwinklig zum Mittelrahmen steht.

This piece is actually glued down - heat and rubbing alcohol really helped as at first I couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t get it to move.

Dave Watts - 17/10/20

Schritt 14

Ziehe das kleine Stückchen Klebeband zurück, welches die Schraube unter dem Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher verdeckt. Wenn andere Schrauben auch beklebt sind, dann ziehe auch hier das Klebeband zurück.
Entferne folgende Schrauben, mit denen der Mittelrahmen befestigt ist:
Elf 3,7 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben
Eine 4 mm Torx T5 Schraube
Halte während der gesamten Reparatur die Schrauben gut geordnet und achte darauf, dass jede wieder an ihren ursprünglichen Platz zurück kommt.

On my Pixel 2, I also had to peel back a small strip of conductive tape that was directly above (and the same kind as) the “screw below the earpiece speaker” mentioned above. It appears to be a ground strap to the assembly underneath.

Jonathan Dubovsky - 24/12/19

Me too! Please change the photo?

Andrew Hoeveler - 01/06/20

If you don't peel the mesh tape up, it will year. I'm not sure if it plays into the screen potentially not working, but it seems to be a ground for the midframe and the display ribbon has a ground contact to the

Wesley Krueger - 12/07/20

Many of the screws would not come out due to the original threadlocker on the threads. I found that if I just kept moving them around with a toothpick, I could get the out. I also had one of those telescoping magnetic bolt grabbers that pulled the screws out.

John Reagan - 14/03/21

Would be nice if they included the correct torx bit in the tool kit... mine came with a T2 Torx...pretty useless...managed to get the display ribbon cable free as those screws were surprisingly not super tight - got them with the included Philips bit...pretty F$%^ED right here

Jens Davidsen - 12/01/23

@JensDavidsen, I'm sorry to hear that the kit came with the wrong bit. We do everything we can to make sure that our tool kits are kitted correctly. I've gone ahead and forwarded your information over to CS so they can get this fixed for you. In the future, if you have any questions or concerns, don't hesitate to reach out to us directly.

Kris Rodriguez -

Schritt 15

Setze ein Öffnungswerkzeug in die Einkerbung im Mittelrahmen in der Nähe der Halte-Taste ein.
Heble den Mittelrahmen so hoch, dass ein Spalt zwischen ihm und dem Gehäuse des Smartphones entsteht. Der Mittelrahmen kann noch nicht ganz ausgebaut werden.

This is to pop a securing tab out it's place

Wesley Krueger - 09/07/20

On re-assembly make sure the securing tab, near the notch you use to open it, is inserted back under the frame again - this caused me to have to re-open my phone as my screen didn’t sit back down properly after I had put everything back together.

Dave Watts - 17/10/20

It is more effort than I anticipated. I really thought I was going to break it, but it was fine.

John Reagan - 14/03/21

Schritt 16

Beginne an der Unterkante den Mittelrahmen hochzuheben.
Wenn der Mittelrahmen zum restlichen Smartphone einen Winkel von 45° erreicht hat, dann hebe ihn gerade nach oben weg.
Führe beim Hochheben des Mittelrahmens den Näherungssensor durch den kleinen Schlitz im Mittelrahmen.

While not shown here in the photo, there is a short braided cable between the midframe and the motherboard near the front facing camera that prevents separating the midframe completely (ground?). Be careful not to damage this cable when completing the remaining steps or carefully remove before trying to separate the midframe completely.

ericdowens - 01/12/19

As ericdowens says above, there’s a small silver sliver of a connector (next to the front-facing camera). The guides on youtube said it was a grounding wire. This guide doesn’t mention it. Mine broke when I removed the midframe. No big deal. I stuck it back down with some tape when I put it all back together. Phone works fine.

Alex Lawson - 21/09/20

I had a heck of a time levering up the midframe. I had popped the side with the opening tool, but the other side was really stuck. I used some alcohol along the edge thinking there was some adhesive. Not sure. I eventually used a dental pick to pop it loose.

And when reinstalling, don’t forget to move the short braided cable back out of the way so you don’t trap it inside.

John Reagan - 14/03/21

STOP! Before you lift the midframe, the ground strap mentioned by ericdowens and Alex Lawson definitely will break if you don’t remove it from the midframe before lifting. I didn’t quite know what they were talking about, so thought I’d look for it as I was lifting the midframe, as I was sure if I was careful I’d spot it before it would break. I was very gentle, and I still broke it before realising what they were talking about. Look for some silver mesh tape on the midframe, near the forward-facing camera, same kind of tape as over the screw shown in Step 14. I’m going to try and carefully tape mine back together as Alex Lawson did, but it will be very fiddly, wish I hadn’t broken it in the first place!

Jamie Lamb -

I broke mine... then proceeded to pilfer about 2mm worth of the tape depicted in step 18 because it's a silvery adhesive.

Jens Davidsen -

Schritt 17

Löse den Akkustecker mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers ab.

This photo and tutorial doesn't show the shielding on the chips of the motherboard. And the glue…My pixel 2 had the volume button ribbon cable glued to the shielding. Carefully pry the cable off. Very carefully slide under it. Maybe use a little heat to soften the glue. You cannot just remove the motherboard with removing the ribbon cable for the volume buttons.

Austen - 08/03/21

Schritt 18

Trenne den Stecker der Ladeeinheit mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers von der Hauptplatine ab.

Schritt 19

Setze ein geeignetes Werkzeug (z.B. eine aufgebogene Büroklammer oder das SIM Auswurfwerkzeug) in das kleine Loch im SIM Einschub auf der linken Seite ein und drücke darauf, bis der SIM Einschub herausspringt.
Entferne den SIM Einschub.

Schritt 20

Entferne die beiden 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00.

Schritt 21

Trenne die beiden Stecker an der Unterkante der Hauptplatine ab.

Schritt 22

Heble die Hauptplatine mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug hoch.
Entferne die Hauptplatine.

Schritt 23

Drehe die Hauptplatine herum.
Trenne den Stecker des Kabels zu Fingerabdrucksensor ab.
Nun sind alle Anschlüsse von der Hauptplatine getrennt.

Schritt 24

Hebe den Press-fit Verbinder der Rückkamera mit der Spudgerspitze hoch und löse ihn ab.
Entferne die Rückkamera von der Hauptplatine.
Wenn deine Ersatzkamera mit einem Abstandshalter aus Kunststoff versehen ist, musst du ihn entfernen, bevor du das Modul einbaust.
Achte darauf, dass die Oberfläche der Kameralinse frei von Staub und Verschmutzung ist, bevor du die Kameraeinheit einbaust.

My pixel 2 device camera isn't working. By using magnet I have to tap around the rear camera after few then back camera will open. Again If i close the camera it's not reopen normally. May I know the reason why this issue common for pixel phones?

chbhargavsarma - 22/08/20

Abschluss

Vergleiche dein Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Du musst vielleicht fehlende Teile vom alten auf das neue Teil übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Entsorge deinen Elektromüll sachgerecht.

Hat die Reparatur nicht ganz geklappt? In unserem Forum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.

Tinte & Feder

Blake Klein

Mitglied seit: 30/01/17

67752 Reputation

17 Kommentare

Does anyone know if replacing the camera unit fixes the problem with the camera’s ‘fatal error’ issue? I’m trying to figure out if it’s just the camera unit that’s bad, or if there are other parts involved.

Sean McCay - 28/05/19

I just replaced my rear camera on pixel 2 and I can confirm YES it does fix it!

John Feng - 02/09/19

Well, I completed the repair on the camera but cannot confirm that it worked because I messed up my display which costs too much to replace :( That thing is super delicate I guess. I’m thoroughly upset.

Sean McCay - 17/09/19

Yes. This fixed my Pixel 2 camera crashing issue. My original symptom was that the autofocus stopped working properly. Then a month or so later the rear camera would crash 49 out of 50 times I opened it (completely unusable). Many people online swear this is a software issue caused by an android update but because I had that focus issue crop up first I suspected my issue was physical damage. I’m generally pretty careful with my phone, it lives in an official case. The only potentially damaging behaviour my phone is exposed to is my placing it in a windscreen mounted phone holder. Perhaps the repeated vibration can break something. Now my camera is fixed I will continue to place it in the phone holder and report back if it breaks again. For science. BE VERY CAREFUL REMOVING THE SCREEN. The guide is not being overly cautious about the screen removal. I broke my screen removing it and turned my $50 camera job into a $200 job with a new screen. Still worth it but I wish I’d heeded the warnings and cautions.

Alex Lawson - 21/09/20

Alex, you may be onto something! There have been many reports of motorcycle riders breaking their smartphone cameras after they’ve mounted their smartphones for prolonged periods. The optical stabilization hardware on these camera modules is pretty fragile. I suspect repeated vibration can definitely result in breaking some very delicate wires in the OIS or flex cables.

Arthur Shi - 24/09/20

NO...Did not work for me :( I am a semi experienced with smartphone repair, and I was able to put my pixel 2 all back together (tested the camera replacement several times before so) with all features working sans camera. Appears to be a motherboard issue. Or maybe it's the front camera…. Either way it's a software issue, because the Google Camera app should tell you what's wrong, and let you use that camera that does work. This repair, if you do attempt, is made easier with a heat gun (a 20 dollar one will do) of course and several picks (guitar picks are handy) to keep the screen from reattaching. Just heat until it's sorta hot to touch…not too much! Also note the instructions on how far to put the picks in to not damage the screen(don't go past the bezels).

I am going to phone into a debugger and figure out the error code next… but also might just buy a samsung (this is my second google phone to have motherboard problems).

Austen - 08/03/21

Is the battery removal really necessary to get the motherboard out? I’m not seeing any reason it should be.

jkenny23 - 15/01/20

If you get any answer for this please inform

shady mohamed - 09/08/20

You’re correct! I’ve updated the guide to reflect this.

Arthur Shi - 10/08/20

Definitely not needed. And considering how tough the adhesive is under the battery, I’d say it’s best not to remove it.

Alex Lawson - 21/09/20

Can you comment more on why a new battery is needed? My battery is working fine, I'd rather not b a new one.

Erin Beck Acain - 01/08/20

Hi Erin! I updated the guide to skip over the battery replacement section, as it is not needed for the rear camera.

Arthur Shi - 10/08/20

Yeah, I skipped the battery removal/replacement.

Alex Lawson - 21/09/20

I successfully (all previously working parts of phone still working) reinstalled a new camera- except the camera doesn't work still. So I am in the software camp on this plague of pixel cameras. And even if the rear camera doesn't work… why wouldn't the front!!! It's a motherboard issue… or software. Google please just print the error to the screen causing the camera not to work!!!! I had a Nexus 5x before (its motherboard went bad just like the rest)… so I am not going with Google for the next phone. Samsung's seem to hold up better statistically.

Austen - 08/03/21

This fix did not work for me. For those that it did: did your front camera still work though? Both my front a rear cameras weren't working. I went ahead and replaced the rear, but no change. Maybe I got a DOA camera, but why doesn't my front camera work… what was the status of both your cameras before and after repair?

Austen - 08/03/21

Since the battery removal is not necessary, the Tesa 61395 Tape can be removed from the parts list - correct?

auldgregg -

I agree it can be removed. As long as people have the “Google Pixel 2 Display Adhesive”. If you didn’t have a replacement Display Adhesive pack you’d need to cut and use Tesa tape as the original adhesive is very unlikely to be re-usable.

Alex Lawson - 12/10/21