Google Pixel 3 XL Screen Assembly Replacement

Geschrieben von: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Kommentare: 20

Google Pixel 3 XL Screen Assembly Replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Moderate

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

1 - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Use this guide to replace the screen assembly in your Google Pixel 3 XL.

This guide is written for the genuine Google screen assembly. The assembly consists of the screen and frame together in one part. Be sure you have the right part before you begin the repair.

Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Schritt 1

Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or a straightened paper clip into the small hole, located at the bottom edge of the phone.
Press firmly to eject the tray.

Schritt 3

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the back cover for a minute.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.
While you wait, note the following areas on the back cover:
Strong adhesive—there are large patches of adhesive near the bottom of the phone.
Fingerprint sensor cable—be careful not to slice through the cable as you pry

Schritt 4

Apply a suction cup to the heated edge of the back cover, as close to the edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you are having trouble, apply heat to the edge and try again.
Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.

Suction cup doesn’t work on severely cracked glass.

Jeffrey Kongthong - 22/12/20

Step 1 - 2 took me about 50 minutes. Back and forth with heat and trying with suction cup. I could get my finger nail in but not the pick. Took two people, but we finally got a pick in. 2 year old phone.

Andrew Messier -

Took about 15 minutes and three total attempts. On the third attempt, I also used a thinner, metal, pick to widen the gap just enough for the plastic pick to fit (Though be careful as you can easily break it with a metal pick). The phone is three years old.

Hotohori -

Could not get in with the pick or in from the side. Targeted the bottom of the phone with the iOpener and managed to gently create some space for the pick with the opener tool.

Daniel R. -

I also struggled here for a while. I ended up working my way around the entire edge of the phone until I found one spot where I could pry up the back panel. I used a jimmy instead of the opening pics. I also used a hairdryer on lower heat instead of the iopener. 3 year old phone.

Bryan Wethington -

Took 30 minutes + to get the back cover off. Used another suction cup to grip from the busted screen and the ifixit suction cup for the back. A thinner Acoustic guitar pick was required opposed to the standard Blues picks provided in the kit (har-har). Would HIGHLY suggest getting a pick into both the back and the front before removing the panels as it will give you more surfaces to pry from. Made that mistake...

Brian Sommer -

Over 2 hours of trying, I keep reheating the pouch and let it sit on the edge for sometimes up to 10 minutes since the directed 1 minute wasn't working. Physically cant get enough leverage on the back of the phone; picks are too thick to get under the crack, and the suction cup pops off before I can get enough force to see any gap open. Phone is 5 years old. I really need some help

Grant Cooper - 02/03/23

Hey Grant!
I hear your pain—the adhesives on this phone are very strong. The initial gap is one of the hardest parts of the procedure. Here are some suggestions:
* If you have a hair dryer, give that a shot. Heat the edge until it is slightly too hot to the touch.

* These adhesives separate not with extreme force, but with constant steady force and time. Try heating the edge and pull on the suction cup with firm force for about a minute to let the adhesive separate.

* If you have an opening tool, you can try this procedure to get the initial gap.

Arthur Shi -

Schritt 5

Slide the opening pick along the right edge to slice through the adhesive.
The adhesive gums up and becomes hard to slice once it cools. If that happens, re-apply heat to the edge to make slicing easier.
Once you have sliced through the edge, leave an opening pick in the seam to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Schritt 6

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom of the back cover for a minute.

Schritt 7

Use an opening pick to slice around the bottom right corner and continue along the bottom edge of the phone.
Work slowly as you slice around the corner to prevent the panel from cracking. If the slicing becomes hard, re-apply heat.
Leave a pick in the edge to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Schritt 8

Continue heating and slicing the remaining edges of the phone.
Be careful as you slice along the left edge of the phone. If your pick feels like it's stuck near the top, you may have snagged the fingerprint sensor. Retract the pick out of the seam slightly and try again.
Be sure to cut through the thick portions of adhesive near the bottom and right edge of the phone.

Schritt 9

Gently pry up the right edge of the back cover.
Use an opening pick to slice through any remaining adhesive along the edges.

Schritt 10

Swing the right edge of the back cover upwards and rest the flipped panel along the left side of the phone.
Be sure to maintain slack on the fingerprint sensor cable and prevent it from being pinched.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.
During reassembly, follow this guide to install custom-cut adhesives for your back cover.
If you replaced the fingerprint sensor, you'll need to use this software tool to make the phone recognize the new sensor.

Reassembly is way harder. The adhesive guide is generic and not super helpful, so don't be surprised if things went smoothly until you get to this step and then everything starts sticking to things its not supposed to.

Christopher Trimby -

This is great but how you address that fact that the phone is tied to a particular fingerprint sensor and after replacing, the new sensor is not recognized by the original phone?

Dave -

Hi Dave!

There's a software calibration tool that you can use to calibrate your new fingerprint sensor. I've updated this step to include a link to the tool.

Arthur Shi -

I have a pixel 3 xl and I can't get the tool to work. I finally got the driver's installed after several hours and it says it's for pixel 6 and up basically. So I tried the other option and it's basically saying to do a factory reset? Did I mess something up on the install or what am I doing wrong here? Thanks

Cody L Paulsell -

Uhhh

So, apparently the connector on the motherboard for the fingerprint sensor is just ridiculously fragile, because after plugging and screwing everything in (pretty much reassembled except for the adhesive), I closed up the phone and powered it on to test if everything was working, and when I opened it back up and let the top hang off to the side, it just snapped off. I didn't even have it tensioned that much, it was just hanging off to the side and snapped. So now I've traded a non-functional camera with a non-functional and irreparable (unless I get a new motherboard) fingerprint sensor.

The guide really ought to emphasize how delicate that connector really is. I have a google drive link here to a photo of the remnants of my poor fingerprint sensor connector :( link

Mindle -

Schritt 11

User tweezers to carefully peel up the yellow tape over the fingerprint sensor connector.

This step is utterly unnecessary. It achieves nothing, and the tape is there for a reason (I'm not sure why, maybe to prevent short circuits). I didn't remove this tape while disassembling and it didn't change anything.

Krzeszny - 24/08/22

The Kapton tape should adhere to both the cable and the connector. It helps prevent the cable from slipping out of the ZIF connector. You're right in that you don't have to completely remove the tape—I've adjusted the step to reflect this.

Arthur Shi -

I just finished this guide, thank you. It would be nice to have a "before ribbon removed" reference picture that's also without the Kapton tape in place if possible. I was no longer certain how far back into the ZIF connector I had to place the ribbon cable as I simply forgot what it looked like before removing it. Basically, it "felt" like it was out too far, but since I had no reference I couldn't compare. Step 10 has good close up pics, but the ribbon cable is already out a bit so a bad reference.

teknomedic -

Schritt 12

Use the point of a spudger to carefully flip up the black lock bar on the fingerprint sensor's ZIF socket.
Grasp the cable's tab with your fingers or tweezers and gently walk the flex cable out of the socket.
To prevent shorting, be careful not to touch the metal contacts on the flex cable with your tweezers.

Schritt 13

Remove the back cover.
Follow this guide to correctly apply new back cover adhesive.

Schritt 14

Remove the following four T3 screws securing the metal cover bracket:
Three 4 mm long screws
One 3 mm long screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Be careful when putting the screws back in that you do not over tighten. This will cause you to destroy some pixels on your screen.

Brian Retterer - 18/05/21

The long screw on my disassembly was adjacent to the lettering for the Qi inductive receiver, and not close to the silver exposed part of the battery as indicated

Andrew Munro -

In my case, all the screws are the same length.

Krzeszny -

Schritt 15

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the top right edge of the metal bracket and pry up to loosen it.
Remove the metal cover bracket.

There is a small adhesive pad under the metal bracket, between the two middle screws that will provide some resistance when lifting the metal cover bracket

Andrew Munro - 11/08/22

Schritt 16

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector from its socket.
Do not use metal tools to to disconnect the battery, or you will risk shorting the battery.
Bend the battery cable such that the connector will not accidentally touch the socket.

Schritt 17

Remove the five T3 screws securing the motherboard shield:
Three 4 mm long screws
Two 3 mm long screws

Schritt 18

Remove the motherboard shield.

Schritt 19

Remove the three 3 mm long T3 screws securing the front camera bracket.

Schritt 20

Remove the front camera bracket.

Schritt 21

Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the cameras from their motherboard sockets.
Be very careful not to dislodge the small surface-mounted components surrounding the sockets.

Schritt 22

The cameras are lightly adhered in place.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and loosen the camera modules from their recess.

Schritt 23

Remove the front-facing cameras.

Schritt 24

Remove the 4 mm long T3 screw securing the top-right corner of the loudspeaker.
Removing this screw will give you slightly more wiggle room when removing the motherboard.

Schritt 25

Remove the two 3 mm long T3 screws securing the button array connector bracket.

Schritt 26

Remove the button array connector bracket.

Schritt 27

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the earpiece connector from its motherboard socket.
Carefully remove the connector pad surrounding the earpiece socket.

Schritt 28

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the following:
Microphone connector
Button array connector
Earpiece connector (should already be disconnected)

Schritt 29

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the following:
Charging coil connector
Left squeeze sensor connector
Display connector
Right squeeze sensor connector
Loudspeaker connector
USB-C port connector

Schritt 30

Remove the two 3 mm long T3 screws securing the motherboard.

Schritt 31

Insert the point of a spudger underneath the motherboard, near the rear-facing camera module.
Pry up gently to loosen the motherboard from its recess.
If the motherboard is not budging, make sure you have disconnected all the connectors.
The motherboard has to squeeze past the earpiece speaker cable. If too much pressure is put on the earpiece cable, the earpiece speaker will pop open. You can prevent this by pressing on the earpiece module with a finger while you maneuver the motherboard out.
If the earpiece speaker pops open (as shown in the third photo of this step), carefully align and press the module back in place.

Schritt 32

Don't attempt to remove the motherboard from the phone. It's still attached to the phone.
While you perform this step, take care to keep slack on the antenna cables attached to the bottom leg of the motherboard.
Lift the top half of the motherboard slightly to clear the board from its recess.
Twist the left edge of the board over and out of the phone and rest the board on the right edge of the phone.

Schritt 33

Use the flat of a spudger to gently pry up and loosen the black and white antenna cables from their motherboard clips.
The cables are fragile and the clips hold onto them tightly. Be patient and pry as close to the base of the clips as possible.

Schritt 34

Remove the motherboard.

Schritt 35

If you are installing a new motherboard, follow these instructions to transfer the rear-facing camera:
Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the rear-facing camera from its motherboard socket.
Remove the rear-facing camera and transfer it to your replacement motherboard.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

Schritt 36

If you have already removed the motherboard, the top right loudspeaker screw will already be removed.
Remove the following four T3 screws securing the loudspeaker:
Three 4 mm long screws
One 3.9 mm long screw

Schritt 37

Insert the point of an opening pick under the bottom right corner of the loudspeaker.
Slide the pick in to loosen the right side of the loudspeaker.

Schritt 38

Insert the point of an opening pick under the top edge of the loudspeaker, below the battery.
Slide the opening pick in to slice through the adhesive gasket under the loudspeaker.

Schritt 39

Lift the loudspeaker out slowly and pull it away from any remaining adhesive.
Remove the loudspeaker.
Before you reinstall the loudspeaker, you may want to remove any residual adhesive from the frame and place new adhesive.

Schritt 40

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the white coaxial cable connector from the charging assembly.

Schritt 41

Remove the white coaxial cable from the phone.

Schritt 42

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and detach the black coaxial cable from its clip on the charging assembly.

Schritt 43

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the black coaxial cable connector from the charging assembly.

Schritt 44

Remove the black coaxial cable from the phone.

Schritt 45

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the three 2.4 mm screws securing the charging assembly to the frame.

Schritt 46

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 3.9 mm screw securing the USB-C port bracket to the frame.

Schritt 47

If you haven't removed the SIM card tray from the phone, do so now. The charging assembly cannot be removed without removing the tray.
The right side of the charging assembly is secured to the frame by a peg adjacent to the SIM card reader.
Slide the flat end of a spudger under the right side of the charging assembly to detach it from the frame.

Schritt 48

The left side of the charging assembly is secured to the frame by a peg and light adhesive.
Insert the flat end of a spudger under the left side of the charging assembly.
Pry up and detach the left side of the charging assembly from the frame.

Schritt 49

The USB-C port is secured to the frame by a red gasket. You may need to move the charging assembly back and forth to detach the assembly from the frame.
Remove the charging assembly from the frame.
During reassembly, make sure the right squeeze sensor cable is situated above the USB-C port cable.
The right squeeze sensor cable is adjacent to the bottom right corner of the battery.

Schritt 50

Insert the point of an opening pick underneath one edge of the charging coil.
Slide the pick along the edge to loosen the adhesive.
Slice as deep as you can while taking care not to puncture the battery's surface.

Schritt 51

Tilt the edge you have been slicing upwards.
While holding the phone in a tilted position, apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high concentration isopropyl alcohol along the edge.
Keep the phone in that position for a minute or two to allow the adhesive to soften.

Schritt 52

Insert the flat end of an opening pick underneath a corner of the charging coil.
Push the pick slowly and firmly under the coil to loosen the adhesive.
The adhesive is mostly around the perimeter of the wireless coil. Use the opening pick to slowly slice through the adhesive.
If the adhesive feels difficult to slice through, tilt the phone up and apply a few more drops of adhesive remover.

Schritt 53

Remove the wireless charging coil.
To install a replacement coil:
Use isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth to clean off the battery surface of any adhesive residue. Be very careful not to puncture the battery.
Connect the wireless coil connector to its motherboard socket. This ensures that the coil is properly aligned.
Peel off any adhesive backing on the replacement coil.
Lay the coil on top of the battery and firmly press it into position.

Schritt 54

Carefully slide the point of a spudger underneath the yellow battery pull tabs folded along the top edge of the battery.
Separate the pull tabs from the battery.

Schritt 55

There are steep, sharp edges near the top of the battery, that can easily break the adhesive strip as it's being pulled out.
Insert the flat end of an opening pick into the gap above the battery, behind a yellow pull tab.
Wedge the pick firmly underneath the battery. The pick will serve as a buffer for the adhesive strip as well as a prying point.

Schritt 56

Pull on the yellow adhesive pull tab with slow steady force. Try your best to pull it as shallow of an angle (vs. straight up) as possible.
As you pull on the adhesive tab, maintain pressure on the opening pick to wedge it underneath the battery as much as possible.
If the adhesive feels stuck, you can apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high concentration isopropyl alcohol into the gap to help loosen the battery. Doing this will most likely loosen both strips at once.
Repeat the process with the second adhesive pull tab.

Schritt 57

Remove the battery.
Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.
To install a replacement battery:
Use isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth to remove any remaining adhesive from the battery well.
Temporarily re-connect the battery connector to its motherboard socket. This ensures that the battery will be properly aligned.
Apply stretch release adhesive strips, double-sided tape, or pre-cut adhesive strips to the battery well.
Lay the battery in the phone and press it firmly in place.
Disconnect the battery connector from its motherboard socket and resume reassembly.

Schritt 58

Insert an opening pick between the frame and the long edge of the vibrator.
Slide the pick underneath the vibrator to separate the adhesive.
If you're having trouble separating the adhesive, apply a heated iOpener to the vibrator for one minute.

Schritt 59

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the vibrator.

Schritt 60

The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered to the frame.
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for two minutes.

Schritt 61

Insert the tip of a spudger between the frame and the long edge of the earpiece speaker.
Pry up with the spudger to separate the adhesive.

Schritt 62

Remove the earpiece speaker.

Schritt 63

The microphone assembly is lightly adhered to the frame.
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top left of the device for two minutes.

Schritt 64

Use tweezers to remove the rubber bracket between the microphone assembly and its recess in the frame.

Schritt 65

Insert a halberd spudger between the microphone assembly and the perimeter of the frame.
Slide the halberd spudger downward and pry towards the battery to separate the adhesive.

Schritt 66

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the microphone assembly.

Schritt 67

You're now left with the screen assembly.

Abschluss

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Tinte & Feder

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Mitglied seit: 16/01/22

69204 Reputation

Google Pixel 3 XL Screen Assembly Replacement

Einleitung

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

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