Mac Pro Late 2013 CPU tauschen

Geschrieben von: Walter Galan
  • Kommentare: 80
Mac Pro Late 2013 CPU tauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Schwierig

Schritte

28

Zeitaufwand

1 - 3 Stunden

Einleitung

Nutze diese Anleitung, um die CPU zu tauschen.

Der Ausbau des Logic Boards bedeutet, dass du eine neue Schicht Wärmeleitpaste auftragen musst.

Vor Beginn der Arbeit an deinem Mac Pro: Ziehe den Netzstecker des Computers und drücke und halte den Netzschalter zehn Sekunden lang gedrückt, um das Netzteil zu entladen.

Sei sehr vorsichtig, dass du keine der Kondensatorleitung oder freiliegende Lötstellen auf der Rückseite des Netzteils berührst. Fasse die Platine nur an den Kanten an.

  1. UvUDEeuAGOcSyZ6Y
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    • Schiebe den Verriegelungsschalter nach rechts in die entriegelte Position.

  2. 1T6FWnrfHWRH2PIX
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    • Hebe das Außengehäuse gerade nach oben vom Mac Pro ab.

    • Es kann helfen, auf die Mitte des Lüfters zu drücken, während das Gehäuse nach oben gehoben wird.

  3. thx2PRFESOcKGAcF
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    • Entferne die fünf 5,1 mm T10 Torx Schrauben, die rund um die Lüftereinheit herum angebracht sind.

    You don't have to remove the fan assy to get to the wifi board & card. It can be done with the fan assy still attached.

    Fat Mango -

    Fat Mango is correct. That said. If you do pull the fan assembly note that the screws are all held in with blue Permatex and breaking them free takes a fair amount of effort. Getting a good set of Torx screwdrivers is a must.

    Jim WIlson -

    Hey guys, what would happen if you only replace one card.. I have a D300 but the plan is to upgrade to D500 or D600. So If I can afford and install one instead of the pair would it increase something? or will it cause any conflict? I guess I don’t understand if I the Mac Pro has 2 D300 graphic cards that means each has 1GB? Same as If I would Install 1 D600 that would increase 3GB only? Thanks.

    marcotamayo -

    D300 = 2GB each card. Very few apps uses two cards at the same time.

    Gio Cas -

    The (5) Screws are Apple part number 923-0713

    Steven Gier -

  4. fEANTTnYS4TS3pQD
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    • Die Lüftereinheit ist mit zwei Kabeln mit dem Rest des Computers verbunden. Die Kabel befinden sich auf der Seite des IO Boards.

    • Kippe die Einheit nach oben, weg vom IO Board.

    • Versuche noch nicht die Lüftereinheit ganz zu entfernen, da sie noch durch zwei Kabel mit dem Computer verbunden ist.

  5. lceQ6InRYFH5qg2f

    • Halte die Lüftereinheit mit einer Hand fest und löse die zwei T8 nicht verlierbaren Schrauben in der Halterung des Lüfterkabels.

    • Diese Schrauben sind nicht-verlierbar und verbleiben daher im Mac Pro. Versuche nicht, die Schrauben aus deinem Mac Pro zu entfernen.

    On my Mac Pro (assembled mid-2017) these are T8 screws. In fact, there were no T7 screws anywhere in my machine.

    mark33 -

    There was no bracket on top of the cable at all, so I got a bit confused, so I had to skip step 5 and 6.

    Rakesh -

    On my machine, a TR7 worked to remove them due to the weird angle.

    Wilson Gaberino -

  6. Y6MKDVBUdIumVZuf

    • Benutze eine Pinzette, um die Halterung des Lüfterkabels von der Lüftereinheit zu entfernen.

  7. JUE2RPF2GwjcP2kr
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    • Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um das Flachbandkabels der Lüftereinheit vom IO board zu trennen.

  8. wMMmqDsn3NjCMRWu

    • Entferne das Antennenkabel der Lüftereinheit vom IO board.

    • Entferne die Lüftereinheit vom Mac Pro.

    You don't have to remove the fan assy to do the steps below. They can be done with the fan assy still attached.

    Fat Mango -

  9. vKqMwE5sukJabGM4
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    • Drehe deinen Mac 180° herum, so dass die Unterseite nach oben zeigt.

    • Entferne die fünf 5,1 mm Torx T10 Schrauben entlang der Außenkante des Gehäuseunterteils.

  10. P5MoWdnj3fbvZkkd
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    • Hebe das Gehäuseunterteil behutsam hoch und entferne es vom Mac Pro.

  11. P26PH6LWUoxtfsJ3
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    • Benutze das flache Ende des Spudgers, um mit einer behutsamen Drehbewegung eine Seite der Datenverbindung zur Grafikkarte zu lösen.

  12. PJrKJyftNASnUXSA
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    • Löse genauso vorsichtig die andere Seite.

    • Klappe den Stecker hoch, so dass er der Grafikkarte nicht mehr im Weg steht.

    • Wiederhole das Ganze für die andere Grafikkarte.

  13. Cu6PK1pT52qF4udy

    • Entferne die beiden 6 mm Torx T7 Schrauben, mit denen die Verbindungsplatine am Kühlkörper befestigt ist.

    These are actually 6.0mm T8 Torx Screws. 12/07/2016.

    Todd -

    Ended up being T9 screws for me.

    Nathaniel Wilson -

    On my Mac Pro (assembled mid-2017) these are T8 screws. In fact, there were no T7 screws anywhere in my machine.

    mark33 -

    These are T8 screws in my 2013 Mac Pro.

    Sangers -

    T8 screws for me, i did and edit to this step

    Steve McGinn -

    Ended up being T15 screws on my machine

    Spencer Curtis -

  14. O52qwUGYoQiBDHeZ
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    • Lasse die Verbindungsplatine vorsichtig gerade aus ihrem Slot auf dem Logic Board "herauswandern".

    • Am Besten geht das, wenn du erst eine, dann die andere Seite anhebst.

    • Löse die Verbindungsplatine noch nicht ganz vom Mac Pro ab, sie ist immer noch am I/O Board angeschlossen.

  15. WFugbomjqUuOLuxF
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    • Klappe die Verbindungsplatine ganz um, so dass das I/O Board Datenkabel sichtbar wird.

    • Benutze wieder das flache Ende des Spudgers und löse mit der gleichen Drehbewegung eine Seite des I/O Board Datenkabels.

  16. f5Wqjgl2hHjpkrZF
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    • Löse mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers auch die andere Seite des I/O Board Datenkabels.

    • Biege das Kabel aus dem Weg und entferne die Verbindungsplatine vom Mac Pro.

  17. UshNodOHDMceXpFZ

    • Drehe den Mac Pro herum und lege ihn behutsam auf eine glatte Arbeitsfläche ab.

    • Wir empfehlen den Mac Pro so abzulegen, dass er auf einer Ecke des Kühlkörpers und auf den beiden Abstandsschrauben der Verbindungsplatine steht.

  18. DQHQqK22DDBykevM
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    • Entferne die beiden 3,6 mm Torx T5 Schraube auf den Seiten des Netzteilkäfigs (eine auf jeder Seite).

    those are t4 screws in my mac

    Andrzej Kiryluk -

    T4s on mine, as well

    rwcinmsp -

  19. vF6SluHbFoM1FfJJ

    • Entferne den Netzteilkäfig von der Oberseite des Netzteils.

    • Durch den Ausbau des Käfigs werden Bauteile im Inneren des Netzteils freigelegt. Sei sehr vorsichtig und berühre keine Bauteile oder die Leiterplatte.

    • Achte darauf, dass keine Schrauben oder Werkzeuge in das Netzteil hinein fallen, es könnte dadurch beschädigt werden.

  20. LUW6dka1INJTMWM4

    • Entferne die vier 5,5 mm Torx T8-Schrauben, mit denen das Netzteil am Mac Pro befestigt ist.

  21. k435bScZ2IVpLdyI

    • Entferne das Netzteil vom Mac Pro.

  22. iHBTMPxhhFbBXncB

    • Entferne die beiden 5,5 mm Torx T8 Schrauben.

    Il est possible de les retirer aussi des le début une fois le “fond” rond du Mac pro retiré

    Chris -

  23. rEVBCFY1yXBOSEtU

    • Entferne die vier 12,8 mm Torx T10 Schrauben von der Halterung des CPU-Kühlkörpers.

    • Entferne nur die äußeren vier der insgesamt acht Schrauben.

    I cannot unscrew one of those because I appears that one of the elements in wich it is screwd underneath is loose and moving along with the screw, making this operation impossible. Anyone had this issue ?? Any solution ??

    benjaminmonnoyeur -

    I had the same problem. These screws go into threaded inserts, which in turn are screwed into the heatsink. Both have threadlocker compound applied. So the threaded insert’s threadlocker gives up first, and the threaded insert unscrews from the heatsink. Remove all 4 screws, then with a pair of needle nose pliers, hemostat, or thin 7mm wrench, hold the insert steady and unscrew the screw from it.

    Chuck Fry -

    Could I remove these screws and re-screw? I worry that remove them but I can’t re-use them?

    timmy123 -

    I had that problem, too, and I did it like Chuck Fry, with a thin wrench. Unfortunately one threaded insert was so tight that I slipped and a capacitor broke off. Can someone tell me what kind of capacitor I need? I can't find anything under the name listed above the capacitor. Thank you.

    Steph -

    A way to avoid this situation is to ease the tension on the spring slowly and rotate the loosening of four screws a few turns at a time – when the tension is released equally the threaded inserts are more likely to stay in place.

    Steve Esser -

  24. F3yXPALcEAUmlIFO
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    • Jetzt wird das Logic Board nur noch von Wärmeleitpaste auf dem Kühlkörper festgehalten.

    • Du kannst das Logic Board mit Hilfe eines Spudgers vom Kühlkörper ablösen.

    • Sei dabei sehr vorsichtig, verbiege oder beschädige das Logic Board nicht.

    • Entferne das Logic Board vom Kühlkörper.

  25. jNreTWMapQYdsSCR
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    • Entferne die vier inneren 12.8 mm T10 Torx Schrauben von der Klammer des CPU-Kühlkörpers.

    • Entferne die Klammer des CPU-Kühlkörpers.

    On my Mac Pro (assembled mid-2017) these screws are covered with a black sticker presumably to indicate tampering. If you did not know they were screws it would not be obvious. You have to just put the T10 driver right in the center and start turning; it quickly breaks through the sticker.

    mark33 -

    Oh man. Thanks so much for that comment! I would have tried to use pliers!

    Trevor Standley -

    Also remember to support the CPU (On the other side) while removing these screws. Mine CPU fell out from the other side while loosening.

    Daniel Wood -

    On my MacPro there are no screws here. On the backside the place where the back of the screws should be are covered with stickers, but removing the stickers simply reveals a rivet. There’s no screw and seemingly no way to remove the CPU.

    rsproductions -

    Je confirme, un sceau plastique noir protège les 4 vis. Il faut percer et dévisser au centre avec t9 pour moi

    Chris -

    Wow, glad I clicked comments. I had no clue about the sticker. I was about to use some kind of something to get them out 😂

    Marc Kinnear -

  26. FhluJMcpqFMOFUMy

    • Entferne die zweite Klammer des Kühlkörpers.

  27. yQPKGiFuA1YxeDQB
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    • Hebe das Logic Board von der CPU und den Klammern hoch und entferne es.

    • Beim Zusammenbau musst du die alte Wärmeleitpaste der CPU beseitigen und durch neue ersetzen.

    • Unsere Anleitung für Wärmeleitpaste erleichtert dir diese Arbeit.

    There is one import piece of information when replacing or upgrading these processors. There are two possible orientations and only one is correct (correct me if I’m wrong!). There’s a small arrow on one corner of the processor that needs to be aligned to the correct side. Just match the orientation of the original processor - this can be difficult or easy to overlook since the tiny alignment arrow is usually covered with thermal paste. Clean the Thermal paste off the old processor before you remove it to see the correct alignment.

    Steve Esser -

  28. 5hmbbyW21NEuFkSb

    • Löse die CPU aus ihrer Halterung.

    • Die CPU bleibt übrig.

    • Achte beim Wiedereinbau darauf, die Wärmeleitpaste auf der CPU gründlich zu entfernen und durch eine neue Schicht zu ersetzen.

    • In dieser Anleitung wird gezeigt, wie das am Besten geht.

    The trickiest part of reassembly was attaching the CPU heat sink bracket. Some instructions for that might help. Quite a lot of force on the bracket is needed to get the screws in, due to the spring-loaded nature of the bracket.

    mark33 -

    Excellent guide. I upgraded my 6-core CPU to 12-core and it works really fine.

    Detaching the CPU didn’t work out initially due to the screws… and finally the re-assembling of the sink bracket is a bit more complicated than it is explained here, but it was an excellent guide anyways.

    Thanks!

    Carlos Larrañaga Loreto -

    Excellent guide, thank you. Swapped out the CPU from 6 to 12 core. Need to remember the correct way round for the new CPU in the socket and as others have commented putting the screws back into the CPU brackets can be a little fiddly/worrying all in one.

    Julian Lewis Booth -

    I just completed this task today, took just under 1.5 hours(forgot to reinstall 2nd heatsink bracket. The spring loaded plate is tough to get the first 2 screws in, but after that it is easy. instructions are clear and concise, I also have serviced these machines before a few years ago, went to leave the outer cover off, powered on but nothing, soon discovered the cover must be installed, was happy when it powered up booted to macOS and verified cpu specs, installed the 3.0GHz 10 core from the 6 core 3.5GHz cpu.

    Greg -

    This was my second Mac Pro I replaced the CPU. After doing it the 2nd time it wasn’t as difficult. It took just a little under and hour and I took my time.

    Jack -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Rheinfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Walter Galan

685541 Reputation

45 Kommentare

So this means I can buy the smallest Mac Pro now and upgrade the CPU in a few years, right? I like you guys! :)

Ben -

Yes, Ben, you could. 2nd hand CpU's are available on eBay, Amazon and various companies. Review suitability of your proposed CPU that it will fit the socket FCLGA2011, and pay attention to voltage. ECC support, and TDP. Switching CPU isn't an easy task and it has risks replacing it.

aramis -

Hi Ben, I found an interesting website with more info regarding CPU upgrade:

https://blog.macsales.com/22230-owcs-mac...

from

http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/archives/dec1...

aramis -

I just replaced the cheapest 4-core version with the 12 core 2697v2.

This saved me around $700 + i can sell the 4 core.

Christer Jonsson -

Can you please provide some benchmarks, i wish to do the same, but need to see if doing this myself creates any problems

Habib Kalia -

How much did it cost for the new CPU? How much did you get for the old one?

John Cathey -

Just replace it? No need to change bios?

vader0401 -

I didn't need to change anything, no update required: booted into OS X and the CPU was detected.

aramis -

Can / Could I also use an E7?

Peter Reif -

Pete, here are a few places to look for an E7 CPU to see if it will fit/work in the Mac Pro late 2013 with the FCLGA2011 socket. Check for voltage, ECC support and TDP (base 130 watts for default CPU's) and other specs: http://www.cpu-world.com/Compare/index.h... and search for socket 2011 compatibility. Also, check http://ark.intel.com/search/advanced?s=t... , this is Intel's database for its products; it appears only the E7v2 and E7v3 may fit the board. Do your homework and find a suitable CPU. This way I found that my replacement E5-2687Wv2 would work.

aramis -

STEP 23

I can not remove the screws . A screw is changed shape ....

What can I do ? Any help?. I am going wrong .. Thanks so much...!

acabanillas00 -

i had the same issue ! Very strange. I wonder why tho ! Is it because of apple warranty or juste a random issue. I’m gonna have my unit check by some pros …

benjaminmonnoyeur -

Got it down to the cpu bracket and I'm now confronted with 4 screws that are round and have no space for a screwdriver. Does anybody have experience with this??? What a nightmare!!!

Jesse Billson -

Jesse Billson and acabanillas00, you've run into Apple's new tamper-evident screw stickers. Before you proceed, please note that removing these screws will leave behind clear evidence to Apple that you've been inside the computer, leaving you no wiggle room on your warranty. To remove the screws, first press down with the T10 screwdriver around the centers of the circles, where you would expect the holes to be, and you'll tear right through the stickers (you may have to blindly rotate the screwdriver a bit to get it to line up correctly, since the stickers conceal the holes). Then, just unscrew as normal.

A couple more notes: new Mac Pro 2013's started shipping with these CPU screw stickers some time in 2015, and if you take an older Mac Pro 2013 in for repair, Apple will quietly add the stickers if, during the repair process, they end up stripping the computer down to the CPU bracket.

I haven't found a satisfactory method for preserving the stickers, nor a replacement, but I imagine it could be done...

davidmatics -

An added note: When reinstalling the CPU riser board, Apple sets the torque of the screws to 10.5lbs/in. This might effect the heat transfer capabilities, or performance of the processor itself.

Shmajay -

Completed E5-1650v2 (default 6-core 3.5GHz CPU) upgrade to an E5-2687Wv2 8-core 3.4GHz CPU. Scariest job done ever. Geekbench 4 results Mono/Multi Core: E5-1650v2 (default CPU) 3688/15900 with loads of OS X stuff running in the background, E5-1650v2 (default CPU) 3901/17425 after switching off background processes, then E5-2687Wv2 (upgraded CPU) 3989/22447 with loads of OS X stuff running in the background. Comments on the process above: check your bit size prior to applying your driver, as I found just a few screws having a different bit size than explained above (too small i.e. 5 vs 7, or 8). Also, power supply assembly is hard to put back into place as was before: it's all a very tight fit! Don't force, simply retry fitting if it doesn't fit the first time. Extra information: after original CPU removed, it's a bit tricky to get the new CPU in place as you'll be putting the motherboard on TOP of the CPU according to the process above. Hope this helps.

aramis -

Swapped a E5-2667 V2 into a base quad-core 1620. Considerably faster on multicore tasks. ;)

Not difficult at all - take your time and have some sort of organizer for the various screws you remove. And a torque wrench is a good thing to use so you don’t under- or over-tighten anything.

Bob -

Thanks much for this guide. I just completed installation of an E5-2697v2 (the same 12-core CPU that Apple ships) that I purchased off eBay for $550. I found a few things that were not quite accurate and left notes above in the relevant steps. Basically, both places that claim that the screws are T7 were actually T8 in my machine (apparently assembled in mid-2017 due to the fact that it came with Sierra 10.12.6 installed). Also, as a previous comment noted, my machine also had tamper-evident screws holding the CPU heat sink bracket (step 25). The T10 driver makes short work of the stickers. By far the trickiest part of the reassembly was installing the CPU heat sink bracket. After starting screws on one side of it, it takes considerable force to bend it down enough to get the screws on the other side started. And it’s hard because at the same time you have to keep the CPU from falling out on the opposite side. Really not too hard. Just get a nice work area with plenty of light and keep track of your screws.

mark33 -

Just achieved this, swapping the built-in 4 Cores for a 2d hand E5-2690v2 3GHz 10 core, bought on eBay for 370€ (add 10% for $). Definitely worth the price : multi core geekbench increased from 10600 to 22400 !! Definitely don’t recommend the 2697 which is twice the price for only 10% more power above the 2690

Thanks for the guide !

Just a note : the 2 bottom screws were T8 on mine aswell.

Vincent Monteil -

please help me

bronxbcn -

Hello, this is a little off topic, but was wondering if anyone has figured out how to run the Mac Pro 2013 with the cylinder shell removed? I want to do some bench testing with it off.

Mike S -

Hello please . Can anybody help me? e bought an E5-2690v2 for my mac pro 6.1 all the perfect change but when it takes a long time of stress working with 4k it shuts down and throws me an error. I do not know what to do I'm desperate I bought it instead of the 2697 for the many comments and for the money I had available now I'm very disappointed I can not find a solution and changed the processor 4 times to discard more components but with the serial 1620 there are no errors but it is much slower please help me :) sorry my english use translator I only speak spanish. thanks greetings

bronxbcn -

Awesome instructions. Took all of 45 mins

ericgoodfellow -

I just installed a E5-2697v2 replacing the 3.7 Quad. What a difference! I’m very pleased. Concerning iFixit’s ‘Difficult” rating I would say it was a breeze for me. I took my time, about 1:45 hours and really found nothing difficult. If your’e handy and careful, it will be fine. I had one slight issue the arose from the stud on the processor chassis came out instead of the screw. I used a 7mm open end wrench to remove from the screw and reattached to the plate. I paid $280 for the 12 core and was well worth it!

[deleted] -

Hello. I’ve been trying to get this upgrade to work for a few days. I end up with a system where the fan is running full speed and a “kernel task” is taking up almost all of the CPU. After reading about the CPU and kernel task it seems as though this is a way for the CPU to protect itself. A throttle so to speak. Everything was running well until the upgrade and even a subsequent downgrade back to the original CPU picks up the same issues. I’ve tries PRAM resets and SMC resets. Neither change the CPU/kernel task issue. Is there a missing step? Some sort of reset that needs to be done?

josh townsend -

Additionally, I’ve gone the the trouble of replacing the CMOS battery as well. Still no change.

josh townsend -

Apple Diagnostics show Reference Code PFM006 and Reference Code PPN001 — Both of which say “There may be an issue with your power management controller (SMC)”

Following Apples posted instructions for SMC reset doesn’t do anything.

josh townsend -

Another thing I’ve noticed is that PRAM “zapping” doesn’t work nor do simple things like software reboot or shutdown. As if the SMC really isn’t able to do what it is supposed to do. When I do a restart the system will either shutdown (and not reboot) or just flip back to the login screen. Also when you power on then hold the Command - Option - “P” & “R” keys it just shuts down but not reboot.

A run-down of things I’ve tried.

Environment - At the start.

2 Mac Pro 2013s

1 - 4 core 3.7MHZ, 2 TB SSD (Feather M13-S SSD) 128 GB RAM

1 - 4 core 3.7MHZ, 256 GB SSD (Factory OEM) 12 GB RAM

Both were working just fine prior to CPU upgrade attempt

After CPU upgrade the following symptoms:

Fan running at full speed. (using a fan control program is not a good option - see below)

Kernel Task taking up all of the CPU resulting in super slow response.

After Downgrade back to factory CPUs the same issues persist.

josh townsend -

Have tried the following:

Down grade CPU (no change)

Reset SMC (the apple way and also the rEFIt/rERInd way)

PRAM reset

Several attempts at different amounts of thermal paste

Several different CPU bracket tightnesses- less tight and the way it comes from the factory (bracket arms all the way to the logic board). *** in the OWC video method, you will have trouble replacing the PowerSupply unit because the CPU bracket screws will be too high. There seems to be some disagreement about what is either even possible or recommended based on the they original state)

josh townsend -

Clean OS install from both High Sierra and Mojave

Set and reset all cables and connectors

Found a “button on the control board" (not documented but very near the SMC chip) see attached picture (purple circle) *not documented in the public sphere. — nothing seemed any different after pressing it and or pressing it and holding it.

Current State - Both Mac Pros (one with the 12 core cpu and one with the factory 4 core) boot but are severely CPU throttled and fan running at full speed. Neither are really usable. There must be something missing that this would happen across two nearly identical computers.

Ran Apple Diagnostics results with the following errors - Reference Code PFM006 and Reference Code PPN001 — Both of which say “There may be an issue with your power management controller (SMC)

Any and all help really appreciated.

josh townsend -

Hi John, The kernel_task was the symptom I have. I was told the issue is the thermal conductive paste on the heatsinks is old and must be replaced. Wie trage ich Wärmeleitpaste am besten auf

Michael Glenn Williams -

hey josh, have you found a solution for your problem? I’ve changed my cpu and am running into the same issues.. did all the resets, checked all the cables but to no avail.

hans ueli -

Same here, have you check both GPU are available?

Riccardo -

I’ve done a number of these - going from 4 or 6 core up to 12 core. Straightforward thanks to this guide.

Makes the 6,1 a more attractive unit to me as you can buy one inexpensively and then update the storage (2 TB Intel 660p most recently) and the CPU (E5-2697v2 was $180 on eBay), and RAM (if necessary). I’d go for a D500 unit - the D700 and D300 models seem to have the most issues.

Bob -

Thank you for your instruction, I replaced 4-core version with 12-core E5 2697 v2, SSD from 256GB to 1TB with Kingston A2000 series, DRAM from 12GB to 64GB.

jenshenghsu -

followed the instructions carefully. after putting everything back together, the computer won’t turn on. just the light around the plugs turns on. other then that, no fan no nothing.

any ideas what the problem is?

Niels -

I have the same problem

hold1119 -

Hi dears

i change mine Mac cpu to the E5-2697.

and then it can be switch on. After I change back the factory one. It is not working anymore.

Can u help me solve out the problem???

Rice

hold1119@gmail.com

hold1119 -

Hey, did u get an answer on your problem? or how did u fix it?

thanks!

niels@sinne.org

Niels -

Hi there,

pardon me for the ‘easy’ question but…

Is correct if I remember a double processor unit?

If yes the logic board is the same for one and two sockets or are two different models?

Thanks a lot,

Fabio

Fabio Braga -

Thank you for the guide. Just successfully upgraded from 6-core (Xeon E5-1650 v2) to a 12-core (Xeon E5-2697 v2). According to Arctic silver, the Xeon E5 uses the "vertical line" method for the thermal paste though I ended up doing the spread instead (like in the OWC youtube video) and not seeing any issues.

Regarding the performance difference, according to Geekbench 5 scores (best scores out of 22 runs):

6-Core

Single-Core=869

Multi-Core=4784

12-core (vs. 6-core)

Single-Core=797 (-8%)

Multi-Core=7296 (+33%)

I was surprised how little single-core performance was lost while gaining so much on the multi-core side.

Chris Smith -

I have upgraded a 4-core Mac Pro 2013 to a 12-core CPU. Not too difficult. I advise doing this to old Mac Pros because the thermal paste needs to be replaced occasionally. One option is to replace the 4-core 3.7 GHz Xeon E5 with the 3.7 GHz 6-core Xeon E5. This CPU was never used by Apple but is now available on eBay for about $100. Two extra cores and maximum possible speed in single-core applications!

Filippo Neri -

Gulp. Got all the way to the inside, but then the final four internal screws holding the CPU (step 23) have solid caps! No Torque screw hole in them! What the heck! Has anyone seen this? And if so, how the heck do you remove those?

Greg Fay -

Saw this above! Yay!

you've run into Apple's new tamper-evident screw stickers. Before you proceed, please note that removing these screws will leave behind clear evidence to Apple that you've been inside the computer, leaving you no wiggle room on your warranty. To remove the screws, first press down with the T10 screwdriver around the centers of the circles, where you would expect the holes to be, and you'll tear right through the stickers (you may have to blindly rotate the screwdriver a bit to get it to line up correctly, since the stickers conceal the holes). Then, just unscrew as normal.

A couple more notes: new Mac Pro 2013's started shipping with these CPU screw stickers some time in 2015, and if you take an older Mac Pro 2013 in for repair, Apple will quietly add the stickers if, during the repair process, they end up stripping the computer down to the CPU bracket.

I haven't found a satisfactory method for preserving the stickers, nor a replacement, but I imagine it could be done...

davidmatics - Aug 9,

Greg Fay -

anyone in the DC area want to do this replacement for me? I purchased the 12 core CPU but I am hesitant. I'll pay for the service. Let me know!

Bob pasap -