Nintendo DS Lite oberes LCD Austausch

A Phillips #000 (PH000) seems to give a more secure fit (no slipping) than the stated Phillips #00.

This will be good for mods

I'm having a problem getting the screw to unscrew. I have the right Phillips ( it was included with all the stuff I got this) Any tips. it doesn't look like the screw is spinning but i haven't played my Nintendo DS Lite for 3 years.

Not mentioned is to remove the jumper/connector below the word "SLOT-2". Case WILL NOT separate otherwise.

In the separation step below, the third picture show the case with the jumper/connector removed.

Don’t forget to remove the GBA cartridge placeholder before removing the backside

You forgot to mention to remove the battery compartment Phillips screw.

Anything after step 7 is unnecessary if having to replace the left or right trigger button(s).

The second picture does not show the correct configuration of the button spring. It should be flipped. Look at the trigger on the left of the larger image; that is the correct configuration.

For those replacing the bottom screen, you can just skip to step 13 and go from there. No need to remove the wifi board, antenna, etc.

the i was working on had a different wifi connector. i thought a had broken it but the thing underneath it was just to balance it on the motherboard.

I took it apart successfully and I replaced the screen but I've put it back together and it the green light turns on for about 2seconds quiet dim, brighter for about 1 and then it turns off... I then took the wifi board out, and it turned on! What have I done to it and why doesn't it work with it and only without?!

Exact same symptoms for me : on boot up, green light would stay on for 1 second, then shut down. Without wifi, green light would stay on, but blank screens. In fact, it's because on boot up, DS will check if wifi is present, and stop if there is an error. Then, it checks for upper screen, and after that, for lower screen. If one of these is not responding, DS will turn off. I check my cables (upper screen) and DS started again with no problem.

I can't for the life of me get this freaking antenna cable back when putting everything together, it keeps getting stuck under slot-1 ... how do you aid it through? I'm just pushing it through using the cable itself, but the connector gets stuck somewhere close to the other side and the cable pushing won't do anything but flex the cable.

I had some .015" solder that I fed through the other side and wrapped around the antenna cable to help guide it when I was feeding it back through.

Fantastic guide, although you !@#$%^&* :P forgot to add that you need a Soldiering Kit at the LAST step, thanks..

There should be an added caution remark when removing the ribbon cable from the connector. If the black clip breaks, you're screwed. I have found the connector on another website for about $6. Then the issue is having the right tools to remove the broken connector and soldering on the new one.

How in the world do you get the ribbion cable back in there?

After my first reassembly, the top screen was not working (bottom screen briefly flashind and DS turning off imediatly after swithcing on).

I found out it is the top screen that is not connected correctly.

You have to insert the ribbon until the part which is wider than the rest of the ribbon, almost bumps on the white connector.

This was too difficult with just my (too big) fingers. I used the spudger to push the ribbon from behind and maintain it when closing the retaining flap. This is kinda tricky, but it worked!

Guilhem's point is crucial - the ribbon connectors wider wings must be only a miniscule fraction away from the connector, or you'll get the flash screen of death. This is well worth checking especially as the later stages of manipulating the ribbon through the silver ring (if doing a full shell replacement) can make you feel like you're damaging the ribbon cable. Also check to make sure the black clip is fully closed, otherwise even the smallest movement during reassembly will pull it back out.

These screws were a bit too tight, but I bet it's for a reason. You should probably put it back on as tightly as it was before.

I wish I would have read this guide instead of watching videos that did not show this part. Because of this the rear bezel's tabs got deformed and now i can't put it back on. Trying to remove those tabs and just screw it in once its in place

For those putting the DS back together,be ABSOLUTELY SURE that the metal tube used for the hinge is positioned so the gap is 100% front facing, otherwise when opening and closing the lid it it can chew up the ribbon cable, wrecking all your hard work

Any recommendations for where to get a good functioning LCD replacement?

You may NOT need to desoldier the speakers.

I was cannibalizing the upper screen from my daughter's DS to my son's DS and was able to carefully roll the ribbon up and slide it through the hole. Was only going to replace the screen, but ended up replacing both the screen and the speakers.

There is also a piece of copper tape soldered onto the ribbon cable. Not sure if that's for grounding or heat dissipation, but I transferred it to the new screen also.

A note to anyone replacing the LCD screen: Your replacement screen will have one or two overlays on top. If it has a thin clear plastic overlay you can remove it from the screen; this overlay is for protection only. There is always a thicker, see-through black plastic overlay (you won't be able to tell it's black unless you remove it). DO NOT REMOVE THE SECOND OVERLAY. You will know if you're removing the wrong overlay because this overlay is rather difficult to remove. If you make the mistake of removing it, stick it back on using a credit card to remove air bubbles. It's also possible to use the overlay off of the original screen, but the adhesive on that overlay is even stronger, making removal tricky.