Wie man ein defektes Kabel beim Apple-Netzteil ersetzt

Geschrieben von: Angela Penaherrera
  • Kommentare: 93
Wie man ein defektes Kabel beim Apple-Netzteil ersetzt

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Schwierig

Schritte

15

Zeitaufwand

1 Stunde

Einleitung

Manchmal löst sich die Isolierung des Kabels genau an der Verbindungsstelle zum Netzteil. Ich habe zu viele Leute getroffen, die ihr Netzteil deswegen entsorgt haben. Eine Reparatur erfordert Zeit und Geduld, aber sie ist möglich!

  1. 3wcDqrHcxwhiceaa

    • Bruchstelle.

    One option is to cut the protruding plastic. Just be careful not to cut the wires inside as these will be soldered to the cable. If this does not work, then you can proceed to opening the casing. I recommend this if you are hesitant to violate the integrity of your adapter.

    marcellus124 -

  2. D2JBPVk6ghlImtjn

    • Stecke dein Netzkabel unbedingt aus, bevor du mit der Reparatur beginnst!

  3. hnLvLuaLCctWPtqK
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    • Beachte die Mittellinie des Netzgeräts (hier blau markiert). An dieser Stelle ist das Netzteil mit einem sehr starken Kleber zusammengefügt, der ein einfaches Auseinandernehmen verhindert.

    • Du musst daher mit einem Messer durch das Plastik schneiden. Folge der schmalen Linie rundherum. Vorsicht: Verletzungsgefahr!

    • Dies wird einige Zeit in Anspruch nehmen, da du das Plastik an allen 4 Seiten vollständig durchtrennen musst. Du wirst merken, wie der Widerstand mit der Zeit nachlässt.

    • Pass insbesondere an der Seite im letzten Bild besonders auf, du könntest mit dem Messer leicht Bauteile beschädigen.

    Die Öffnung klappt relativ gut mit einer O-Ring Zange, ohne Aufschneiderei. Start bei den aufklappbaren Flügeln.

    Kay Ackermann -

    What worked reallly well for me was, instead of prying with a screw driver, I took some small pliers and put them right where the little tab flips up, where there’s vertical walls about a half inch apart, and I opened the pliers; do this on both sides a few times and you should be able to open the box without too much damage.

    Bradley Turek -

    +1 to these suggestions. for anyone having trouble visualizing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yqa9uUKu...

    will t -

    O-Ring Zange??

    hans -

    At first, it seems like a daunting situation, because the adhesive has the enclosure so firmly sealed. However, I went around the entire enclosure with a razor blade at about 1/8th inch depth. Then used a fine chisel bit as a wedge. Inserted it into the crack, rotating it torsionally occasionally, and edged it around the circumference. At some point there is a “CRACK”— but don’t panic, its just the final bits of the adhesive releasing from the enclosure.

    skat1140 -

  4. 4tfUOoW4BZHZq3jx
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    • Trenne die beiden Hälften nun mit einem flachen Schlitzschraubendreher. Es benötigt etwas Kraftaufwand.

    • Selbst nachdem du den Schlitz mit dem Schraubendreher geweitet hast, werden sich die beiden Hälften nicht sofort voneinander lösen. Das Innenleben ist vollständig mit den Plastikseiten verklebt.

    • Führe den Schraubendreher vorsichtig wie im Bild gezeigt in das obere Ende des Netzteils ein und trenne sorgfältig die Folie vom Plastik. Achte darauf, dass die Folie nicht vom Innenleben des Netzteils abgezogen wird.

    A few note's to make it look like new! And without damaging the outside.

    Tip1. Flip up the bunny ears and use the back of a lighter (or something else plastic that fits) between the gap and twist it open on both sides.

    Tip2. Use a small drill to clean out the rubber cable guide so u can re use it.

    Tip3. Use super glue and clamp the charger long enough for the glue to dry. (don't rush it!)

    peter van der Leij -

    Mine frayed at the computer end. Do you have any instructions for repairing that end?

    Jason Smeed -

    Maybe this guide can help you out How to repair the MagSafe Magnetic End

    Angela Penaherrera -

    I used a C ring pliers between the gap to pop it open. Refers to Tip 1

    Chaozhouzi Chaozhouzi -

    As mentioned above, this is the simplest way to open it: https://youtu.be/Yqa9uUKuddw?t=28s

    Max -

  5. lUZ1fKXLuWx1QyHI
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    • Bei diesem Schritt habe ich bereits eine Hälfte des Plastikgehäuses entfernt.

    • Nutze den Schraubendreher, um den Klebstoff an beiden Seiten des Geräts zu lösen.

    • Führe den Schraubendreher nun auf der anderen Seite vorsichtig zwischen der verblieben Gehäusewand und der Anschlussplatte ein, um den restlichen Klebstoff zu lösen.

  6. TawH2ITFKxp5o5Uv

    • Am Ende sollte der hier gezeigte Block übrig bleiben. Lege die Gehäusehälften zur Seite.

  7. mvpqDtLK1jDbZxsJ
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    • Nimm das kleine Plastikstück, welches die Kabel mit dem Netzgerät verbindet.

    • Durchtrenne die Kabel so nah wie möglich an dem Plastikstück.

    ACHTUNG: Dieses Plastikstück besteht aus 2 Teilen - den weissen und den grauen Teil - dort kannst du beim weissen Teil ein 4er Loch reinbohren - und beim grauen steckst du nun das reparierte Kabel rein (Fummels nur das alte graue Kabel raus) - damit hast du wieder eine perfekte Durchführung - und zum Schluß wenn alles funktioniert wird am Kabel ein 2 Komponentenkleber aufgetragen - und es sieht viel besser aus …... als diese Lösung mit Heisskleber oder so weiter unten.

    trefftronik -

    Save the plastic piece, cut the cables flush on both side and use a 1/8-in bit to drill the embedded cables out. Then you can reuse it and not have the unsightly hot-glue blob!

    Douglas Ling -

    Yep thats what I did. Then there is no need for the cable ties later on.

    pep073 -

  8. N2AZTLJrXXlmix2x

    • Entferne das Plastik vom Kabel mit einem Messer oder einer Abisolierzange.

  9. ZcD5kfe6o3mKoiEC
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    • Nimm jetzt das Verbindungskabel zum MacBook und schäle das freie Ende vorsichtig mit einem Messer oder einer Abisolierzange ab.

    • Entwirre die äußeren Drähte, um an den weißen Draht in der Kabelmitte heranzukommen.

    • Verdrille die äußeren Drähte wie abgebildet und entferne ein kleines Stück der Isolierung des weißen Drahts.

    Hi,

    What is the use of the outer wire in the cable ?

    Thanks

    Natasha

    Natasha John Williams -

    Hi, it’s probably a bit late, but maybe it will help others…

    The outer wire is used to carry the electric mass thus protecting the inner wire physically and electromagnetically working as a armour.

    Cajuteq -

    bonjour, si le cordon est sectionné en son milieu peut on le raccorder sans risque avec un domino en prenant soin de relier les fils de masse et intérieur indépendamment? merci pour votre conseil

    Marie Andriot -

    Bonjour, un domino peut etre utilisé si vous le protégez pour que personne ne puisse toucher les parties métalliques du domino (vis notamment) pendant l’usage. Je vous conseil plutôt un raccord avec soudure et gaines thermoretractables pour une solution à long terme.

    Cajuteq -

  10. o3ZaoSWKcf16SKGa
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    • Verbinde die beiden weißen Drahtenden (Kabel und Netzteil) und verlöte diese miteinander.

    • Denke daran, dass der weiße Draht aus dem Netzteil auf den weißen Draht vom Kabel, das vom MacBook-Anschluss kommt, gelötet werden MUSS.

    • Der schwarze Schlauch um das Kabel ist dazu da, um die Verbindung vom anderen Draht und Gehäuseteilen zu isolieren. Dazu erhitzt man ihn kurz, um ihn zu schrumpfen.

    • Das letzte Bild zeigt noch einmal den schwarzen Schrumpfschlauch. Du kannst ihn auf die passende Länge zurechtschneiden. Schiebe den Schlauch vor dem Verlöten über das Kabel.

    • Es ist sehr wichtig, die beiden Drähte zu isolieren. Wenn sie sich berühren, kann es zum Kurzschluss kommen. (Oder anders ausgedrückt: Kawumms!)

    Angenommen ich bin so klug und teste das MacSafe einmal nach dem Zusammenlöten ohne die Kabel zu isolieren . Ich sehe ein Lämpchen. Die Freude ist von kurzer Dauer, denn DDDDDRRRRRRRRRTTTTT beide Kabel berühren sich und es kommt zu funken -.-

    ist das Magsafe jetzt hinüber? Gibt es eventuell eine Sicherung? Jemand ähnlich Geniales passiert?

    lg

    LLK -

    What if I short-circuited because of non-isolating the cables? Is the magsafe out of order right now?

    LLK -

    I found it very hard getting the solder to stick to the wire, maybe the type of wire apple uses? maybe the type of solder I was using? However my solution was to take some copper wire and twist it around the cable, then solder onto that this worked quite well as it gave the soilder something to stick to. hope this is helpful! perhaps somebody has another solution.

    James Clerke -

  11. FQSpK4TMFWBkd1Og
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    • Verlöte nun das schwarze Kabel des Netzteils mit dem äußeren Draht deines MacBook-Anschlusses.

    • Isoliere diesen Draht. Das muss nicht auf der kompletten Länge sein, nur so weit, dass sichergestellt ist, dass es ausreichend vor einem Kontakt mit dem weißen Kabel und der Platine des Netzteils geschützt ist.

    • Du kannst Isolierband oder Schrumpfschlauch verwenden. Wenn du Schrumpfschlauch nimmst, dann achte darauf, ihn so weit wie möglich von der Hitze des Lötkolbens fernzuhalten, wenn du lötest, denn sonst könnte er schrumpfen, bevor du den Draht abgedeckt hast.

    Which solder or soldering Iron you guys used? I am trying to do everything with my Goot 40W soldering iron and nothing happens:-

    1. I tried to join black wire but my 60/40 solder won't stick to it at all.

    2. i tried to replace the whole cable with a new cable bought from Amazon and I am unable to get the joint on PCB to get melted.

    Please help!!!!

    varun_ag -

    Maybe the wires have insulation like a plastic covering to protected it from rust breakage?

    I thought it would be 60/40 also, that's the usual electrical solder mixture.

    Using a little piece of sandpaper or nail file it scuff it up, would expose it?

    I would also use a 🐊 clip (copper if they exist... Not the silver looking ones because they conduct electricity and they dissipate heat most efficent) to protect the components on the board side and the opposite leading that leads to the magnetic connection side, but if it wasn't making a connection with the soldering iron, then I guess it wasn't going to help much unless you exposed it all enough.

    Hope you or someone comments what happens.

    Also, you have to make sure your Soldering Iron has a tight connection with the screw.

    And did you make sure the tip of the iron was tinned, or making contact with anything by the copper showing on the tip first.

    Lately I been scuffing that also up with a file to expose the tip unfortunately Wiping it sufficient w/ wet sponge

    Jessica -

    Statt Isolierband und Kabelbinder kann man auch die alte Hülse (das kleine Plastikstück wird es hier genannt) mit einem 3 mm-Bohrer durchbohren. Die Drähte passen durch, und die Isolierung des Kabels bleibt darin fest. Dann lötet man wie beschrieben, isoliert die Drähte, setzt alles zusammen und hat von außen fast denselben Eindruck als wäre nie etwas gewesen …

    Norbert -

  12. K3UDTq1kUeyyhfQD
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    • Umwickle den Rest der weißen und schwarzen äußeren Drähte, die du gerade gelötet hast, mit Isolierband.

    • Verbinde sie so mit dem Isolierband, dass sie ein Kabel bilden und platziere das Netzteil in einer der Gehäusehälften.

    • Weißes Isolierband sieht eleganter aus und ist weniger auffällig.

    • Nimm 3 kleine Kabelbinder und bringe diese so an, dass ein Herausziehen des Kabels aus dem Gehäuse verhindert wird.

    Very useful instruction. I almost bought an expensive replacement. Thanks! I also tied a knot from the wire before soldering. The knot was small enough to fit in the housing where the "round piece" was. The knot will help reduce the chance that the wires being yanked out if you accidentally trip over it.

    hiennguyen -

    This guide was great, thank you for saving me the costs of a new charger. I found it was possible to use the original plastic attachment between the cable and the ac adapter for the repair.

    I first used a 3mm drill bit and removed the bit of cable in the plastic/rubber piece. I then used a 4mm bit to open the hole further and soften the rubber part of the piece. I then threaded the cable through the piece before soldering in step 10. It makes the fix look more like the charger in the beginning and also prevents the wires being pulled through the opening.

    kilian -

    Acutally if you have a set of drills you can carefully drill out the original button and thread the wires through it before soldering. Then there is no need for the cable ties.

    pep073 -

  13. IXs12x5WE1WwLCls

    • Bestreiche nun die Ränder des Plastikgehäuses mit einer dünnen Schicht Sekundenkleber. Füge dann die andere Hälfte des Plastikgehäuses mit dem Netzteil zusammen und drücke die Kleberänder leicht an.

    • Vergiss die Aufrollhilfen aus Plastik nicht...auch wenn diese die Hauptursache für Kabelbruch sind! Ich lasse sie meistens entweder weg oder verklebe sie mit dem Gehäuse, damit das Kabel nicht wieder bricht.

  14. NDUCDFmAbeKUtMZR
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    • Bringe nun 4 große Kabelbinder am Gehäuse an, um es zusammenzuhalten - am besten zwei auf jeder Seite.

    • Manch einer bevorzugt die alleinige Verwendung von Sekundenkleber aus optischen Gründen, Kabelbinder machen es jedoch stabiler. Wenn es dir ohne die Kabelbinder besser gefällt, kannst du diese nach einigen Stunden entfernen, wenn der Kleber vollständig getrocknet ist.

  15. aoWXAwyE3BrShjeX
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    • Nutze eine Heißklebepistole, um den verbliebenen Spalt zu versiegeln.

    • Nimm nicht zu viel Heißkleber, sondern nur so viel, dass der Spalt gerade verschlossen ist.

    instead of glue, put liquid silicon for bathrooms, that's easier to remove if you need to / however to give a form, when not yet dry, some difficulties ( it sticks on fingers )

    Christophe Siekierkowski -

    I use my macbook at school and I'm on my 4th charger :( https://vidd.me/SuY

    Tess -

    instead of glue i suggest Sugru for the finishing touch.. https://sugru.com/

    sebastianfrith -

    Instead of using the stub wires I soldered the cable ends directly to the PCB. Although it worked I cannot recommend it as the PCB is easily damaged when removing the pins to which the wires are connected. Pulling off a PCB track would step up the difficulty of repair considerably....

    bommels -

    Kind of mangled the case when prying it off so I just wrapped it up in duct tape. Ghetto, but works.

    Ola -

    Also ich halte diesen Reparaturweg für KEINESFALLS fachgerecht. Zunächst lässt sich das Netzteil sehr wohl ganz sauber öffnen und mit Kunststoffkleber (Revell) wieder sauber verkleben. Es schadet natürlich nicht, das Gehäuse zur Sicherheit mit einem Textilband zu verkleben, um 1000% sicher zu sein. Aber doch nicht mit mehreren Kunststoffstrapsen.

    Und bitte nicht mit Heißkleber. Wie viele Tage soll das bitte halten? Bei den Rep.-Kabeln sind doch die Gummitüllen dabei und wenn Ihr nur das alte Kabel abschneidet, könnt Ihr die alte Tülle weiter verwenden.

    Dann lässt sich das Kabel auch sehr gut in die Platine einlöten. Der Zeitaufwand ist dabei unter 30 Minuten. Nein, schwierig ist das keinesfalls. Es gibt bei Youtube auch ein sehr schönes Video dazu. Also keine Angst, ist ganz leicht. Aber ACHTUNG! An Hochspannungsbauteilen haben nur Leute herumzubasteln, die wissen, was sie tun.

    Christian F. -

    Thank you very much, just saved myself a decent amount of money!

    Conor Martin -

    thank you very very much

    kajem Ahmed -

    Super, vielen Dank für die Anleitung. Hat alles wunderbar geklappt, habe allerdings das Gehäuse mit einer Zange geöffnet, wie in dem Video im Kommentar zu Schritt 3.

    Am Schluss das Gehäuse mit Klebeband fixiert, sieht nicht schön aus aber ‘s hebt’ wie man bei uns so schön sagt

    hans -

    I cut the wire as close to each end of the plastic/rubber plug/grommet that covers the case opening. I used a 1/8-in bit and drilled out the two embedded cables. Enlarge the hole slightly and the wire will slide through. Do this before STEP 9. Once the black cable is “twirled up”, it may get more difficult to slide through the 1/8” opening (but still possible).

    Douglas Ling -

    Drill out the original knob that goes in there. Get the cable through before the soldering step. Then you can just pop it back in.

    pep073 -

    What a crap! You better solder the cable in the PCB and reuse the old cable holder, insteat glue. Or cut the cable holder in 2 and solder it there.

    You have to use special super glue with gum. The normal break to fast

    13.03.90 -

Abschluss

Fertig! :-)

Tinte & Feder

Angela Penaherrera

Mitglied seit: 06/05/13

12541 Reputation

54 Kommentare

Some tips:

* There is a better way to open the enclosure without damaging the edge: using a pliers to push the two sides apart where the bunny ears lift up (google for videos).

* The cable can actually be threaded through the rubber/plastic grommet if you have the patience to remove the broken cable from it and make the two small holes bigger with a drill bit. This can be frustrating but is the only way to keep the original appearance. Be sure to leave enough cable after the grommet for soldering.

* Thin (2-3mm) heat shrink is a good way to insulate the exposed wire after threading it through the grommet.

* If you trust your soldering skills, consider de-soldering the old cables from the terminals.

* Applying a little super glue along the edge and clamping for a few hours is all that is needed to keep it closed permanently.

don -

Thanks for the tips! If you have pictures of the processes please feel free to modify this guide (especially the opening of the enclosure!) ^__^

* I have seen that in some tutorials and I wanted to to drill a hole through the rubber plastic grommet but didn't have a drill at my office =(

* I did consider de-soldering the old cables but that involved de-soldering other components that are attached to copper plates to get to those terminals. In earlier versions of the AC Adapter this can be done with not so much trouble.

I really appreciate your feedback! Thanks!

Angela Penaherrera -

I didn't try that... We actually ended up just heating it to soften the plastic and that worked, wouldn't advise it though

deavisdude -

Same for me, don: see this as a much easier way to open the case: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yqa9uUKu...

Would be nice if you refer to this solution as alternative, befor starting to cut the case.

Thanks for the manual, I just fixed it!

Lukas -

Is it possible to remove the cord entirely from the circuit board and solder new replacement? I have ordered a replacement and I wonder if its safe to do so? Thank you for your prompt response!

Shawn -

Yes it is possible. Depending on the model of your charger you might need to de-solder some copper plates on the bottom of the circuit board in order to be able to reach the spots for soldering the replacement cable.

Angela Penaherrera -

I found out a more elegant way of disassembling this thing, and posted a guide here:

How to Repair an Apple AC Adapter Broken Cable

Darie H -

Hi! thanks for sharing! I used that guide on another AC charger and was so much easier to take apart!

Angela Penaherrera -

this was so helpful I did a variation of what was described and I'm very happy!!!

jdebrofsky -

This worked great! It literally took me 15 minutes using a dremel tool.

stevenmcconnon -

I managed to reuse original wire hose instead of tape and hot melt glue.

That required some lengthy cleanup of remainders of the wire and some knife work but the charger looks almost as new.

Oleg Urzhumtsev -

Muchas gracias, muy buen material de ayuda

Javito -

Hello i did it and when i plug it into the power my MacBook only charge for like 5 seconds. Can anyone help please?

Thanks

Sarel Prinsloo -

Hi ! I have the same problem. Did you manage to find the answer ?

John Dupont -

omh my &&^& this is so %#*@ &&^&^$^ helpful thanks a lot man &&^&^$^ thanks

sai sorm -

10 min start to finnish just needed info on opening the case thanks work like new.

bullfrog8910 -

%#*@! Thank you so much for this. My charger is up and running. ;) Cheers!

Ankit Yes -

Mine does't work when I put both sides of the casing back on. Works fine with only one side. I tested the soldered contacts - they are fine. I did rip off some of the tin foil by accident thoug. Any clues?

Simon Schneider -

1.5 hours and very straight forward. I would reiterate the importance of making sure ADAPTER MUST BE UNPLUGGED!! before attempting to remove casing or anything further. I feel like electrical hazards were overlooked in the tutorial.

Joshua -

Joshua, sorry to say that, but do you really think anybody in his right mind would attempt to remove the adapter casing before unplugging the adapter? Is such a thing even possible? You gotta give people some credit. I doubt such morons even exist. If they do, maybe it's best they don't reproduce. Darwin Awards, you know?

Anyway.

I'm attempting to do the repair as well. Just to say, I had two adapters I wanted to repair, one was a 85W: almost impossible to open. It took ages. I cut it with the knife, all around, then took some pliers to it to force it open, I ended up cracking the case. All that before realizing my soldering iron was toast. I was planning on borrowing one so I didn't give up. I took the other adapter, a 45W, this time, no knife, I went directly with the pliers, it opened directly, no damage. I think there are a lot of different versions of the adapters. Depending on the one you get, you might be lucky.

Both of mine, I need to unsolder to open any further. I'll come back with more news.

nessdufrat -

Thanks Angela - a very useful guide. I used a fine toothed saw to open up the power supply and a drill to scour out the plastic stopper. White duck tape to keep it closed after I glued it back again. Sure beats buying a new one! Time spent - 45 minutes.

cshop -

Hello, I recently had the same problem and successfully fixed it using this guide so thanks. However, I'm curios, if the adapter does for some reason short circuit, what's the worst that could happen? Will the damage be in my macbook only or is there a risk that I might damage the whole wirings in the office?

DevMan -

Inspired by this guide. I fixed mine without opening the adapter. I hacksawed the upper part (protruding from the adapter) of the plastic piece connecting the cable to the adapter. Then reconnected the wires as described here (without opening case).

marcellus124 -

Used the pliers method to open. I unsoldered the remaining cable at the supply and resoldered the cable directly to the power supply board. To protect the cable from future damage, I added a strain relief. I drilled a 2 holes in the side of the case, looped a zip tie through, then strapped the cable to the side of the case. Oriented cable so that it lies along the side of the supply rather than sticking straight out. It is possible to use the plug prongs as a guide to wrap the cable around the case. I did not bother putting the bunny ears back on and closed up the supply with tape.

tkarches -

The design of the Apple adapters is such that they will all eventually break with how the cable is attached. If you leave some slack in the cable before wrapping the cable around the ears, it will last much longer.

tkarches -

I think mine must have shorted out before dissassembly. I replaced the charge cable with a new one but the charger must have been damaged when it shorted. Is there like a safety component in the charger that stops charging in the event of a short, and maybe can be replaced??? Can anyone advise??

Eduardo -

Mine process was just fine, but I have one problem. That thing gets unbearably hot now :( Is it because of extra resistance ?

Dominykas Sribikė -

Please check that the connecting wires were insulated correctly and that they are not touching anything internally. That might be a hazard. If it heats up so much I would not use it.

Angela Penaherrera -

Opening the case was a B!tcH. One thing I wish I knew ahead of time was more about the basics of soldering. I chewed through a lot of wire just to practice to get the connection right before I ran out of slack and solder too close to the adapter. Buying a cheapo soldering iron (60-watt) was a waste of time. Buy (or rent) an 100-watt so that you can heat the connection up BELOW the wire. Then you can bring in solder from above so that it melts into the wire!! Just need an hot enough gun.

Sean Sumwalt -

I had a frayed cord, with the conducting metal wire completely detached from the rest of the conducting wire (below the insulating material). If that's the case for you, you can peal off the insulating layer from an old iPhone charger, remove the conducting wire and use it to join the two dead ends on the cord of your macbook charger. Apply some electrical tape on top of it and you now have a working charger!

al 4515 -

there is an easier way to open the case. Get a number 10 spanner and use it to prise off the case below the cable tidy clips. Wedge the outer 'fork' into the near corner of the space below the cable tidy clips and push the spanner away from you. Pop! Off it comes. Takes 2 seconds with very little physical effort. It is similar to the pliers approach but easier to do.

Stephen Ashworth -

I have come across many chargers now. Some open the way you said, some are a pain to open. I believe it varies with the year they were manufactured because some have way more glue than others and have a different setup of the circuit board. I now use a hot air gun to soften the internal adhesive, will update the guide later.

Thanks for your comment!

Angela Penaherrera -

Fire hazard man. I’d just replace it.

brian -

I’ve managed to accidentally sever the white cord from the circuit board. Is it worth trying to solder it back on?

Guy Hide -

It is, I have repaired chargers by resoldering the wires onto the circuit board. Just make sure that both wires are well isolated from each other.

Angela Penaherrera -

I used epoxy to glue the enclosure back together, and molded Sugru around the cable to close up the gap and provide a flexible but strong sheath for the cable. Looks like it will turn out nicely!

edward -

I don’t own any soldering equipment but I spliced the wires with electrical tape and it works just fine.

JC Albers -

That is far easier to just solder the two leads on the outside without opening the plastic box. Usually there is enough length sticking out of the box for that. Just strip both central wires on two ends (3 mm on each end is enough) and solder them together. Don’t forget to put the isolating shrink-wrap on the wire end before. Better yet, put two isolating shrink-tubes - a smaller one to isolate the central wire and a larger one to cover and hold together the whole thing. First, solder the central wire. Then pull the smaller tube over the connection and heat it to isolate (or use electrical tape). After that solder the mesh. and finally pull the larger tube over the connection and heat-shrink it (or use electrical tape). Done.That is not ideal, but it will work and hold if you don’t pull on it too hard. Can be done in 5 mins, no need to open the box.

Igor Litvinyuk -

I think this is the right way to repair it while keeping an original look: https://youtu.be/NZrEEJYqJ_w?t=1152

Sorry, it’s in French but still it’s enough to just see it being done.

Nicolas Bergeron -

makes you wander why apple didnt make sure 100 percent the plastics used for the insulation of 240 volt electric were the highest and safest and wouldnt fall to bits or break or chemically dissolve with sweat from humans and be fire standard to uk standards or german electrical standards

it also makes me furious as my family helped place apollo 11 on the moon with nasa that in 2012 to 2016 this design was approved by whom and the materials approved by whom for manufacture thus causing millions of customers to lose millions of chargers and billions

redresonantskywalker7 -

Thanks for this Tuts..i repaired mine. yeayy…

kZ 125 -

Thanks, very good guide! Those who has ragged T connector I suggest to watch simple way to fix it. Fixing MacBook T Connector Charger Cable

Jhorget Malin -

Here is a cable relief replacement for self printing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:393119...

Stephan Petzl -

the small plastic piece that attaches the cables to the AC charge

What's the technical name for it.

Shreeram Shirodkar -

the small plastic piece that attaches the cables to the AC charge

What's the technical name of that part which holds the output wire of Magsafe Charger

Shreeram Shirodkar -

Angela Penaherrera y gente de ifixit, concluí la guía paso por paso sin complicaciones. Los resultados son positivos y contribuye en la comunidad para ayudar a ahorrar un poco de dinero y extender la vida útil de los productos.

josue.varillas -

Angela Penaherrera and people from ifixit, concludes the guide step by step without complications. The results are positive and contribute in the community to help save a little money and extend the life of the products.

josue.varillas -

I read Don’s tip, and tried the same, used two open ended spanners to start the opening of the case, popped open quite easily. Not sure how to post a photo tho.

daniel -

Thank you very much Don..it worked

ogenopen -

My cable broke at the other end, close to the MagSafe connector.

Is there a way to get a new cable including the connector?

ChrisDoubleU -

I used pliers also as described above. Its a good way to get things started. When using th knife, best use a hobby type knife and only leave the blade out max 5 mm. Then the risk of damage is smaller. Indeed take your time and work slowly from one loose point around.

watch your hands,,,

Mike B -

peut on changer le fil, si oui, ou se le procurer ?

Grand Schtroumpf -

EN. I used a thermal pistol. The glue get out easy with this and don't make the cover ugly.

PT. Eu usei uma pistola térmica. A cola saiu fácil e não deixou a capa feia

Rodrigo Araújo Silva -