iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2638 Blade SSD austauschen

Geschrieben von: Walter Galan
  • Kommentare: 178
iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2638 Blade SSD austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

61

Zeitaufwand

1 - 3 Stunden

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt dir, wie du Apples proprietäre Blade SSD (AHCI/SATA) austauschen kannst.

Die Anleitung bezieht sich auf iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2638 Modelle mit höheren Spezifikationen, die mit einer SSD ausgestattet sind. (Fusion Drive oder Blade SSD Konfigurationen)

  1. SrDNTSYqyhGMRNDC

    • Mit einem frei beweglichen Gelenk kann der iMac unkontrolliert pendeln, das macht es schwer an ihm zu arbeiten. Es geht leichter mit einem iMac Service Keil, es kann aber auch ohne ihn durchgeführt werden.

    • Wenn du die iFixit-Reparaturhilfe aus Karton verwendest, dann baue sie zuerst mit Hilfe dieser Anleitung zusammen.

    • Bevor du beginnst an deinem iMac zu arbeiten: Ziehe den Netzstecker, drücke und halte den Ausschaltknopf für mindestens zehn Sekunden. Dadurch werden die Kondensatoren im Netzteil entladen.

    • Sei sehr vorsichtig und berühre nicht die Leitungen oder Lötstellen an den Kondensatoren auf der Rückseite der Platine des Netzteils. Fasse diese nur an den Kanten an.

    The wedge is an extremely tight fit for this model. I was worried that the amount of force needed to use it as shown might damage the stand, so I used it with the long side down instead. It worked fine that way and didn’t need anywhere near as much force to insert.

    roberttrevellyan -

    Here’s a good YouTube vid on upgrading the RAM: Can a Normal Person Upgrade the RAM in the 2017 21.5" iMac?

    Dan -

    Here are a couple tips from me:

    1) Expose the adhesive to extreme temperatures. I did this by transporting my iMac in my car, screen-down on a piece of cardboard on a cold February morning (in Chicago). When I went to pick up the iMac, the screen practically fell off the chassis. I would have been distraught by this if I hadn’t already planned this replacement. So it was a happy accident.

    2) Remember to expell the residual power from the power supply by pushing the power button while the iMac is unplugged. This does NOT guarantee it’s safe to touch, but when I accidentally brushed the solder and exposed capacitors, I didn’t get shocked.

    jerrid_foiles -

    Instead of using the wedge, I placed the iMac faced up with the top side (web cam) facing me while I ran the pizza roller around. It worked out great!

    Sam Fung -

    “All iMacs also come with a traditional hard drive” mine doesn’t!! it’s HDD bay is completely empty, no SATA cable or anything. I guess I’ll have to upgrade the PCIe SSD instead.

    Chris Hughes -

    There is no replacement glass for this model, it is part of the LCD and impossible to remove or replace- the entire LCD has to be replaced unfortunately if the glass is cracked or damaged. You will have to Google search for a replacement. Also be careful with some of the lock tight tork screws as I broke one of my screw mounts taking one out.

    Phil Tesone -

    I used this service wedge but also found it a very tight fit. The same stabilization can be achieved by using a big rolled up towel.

    Ernst -

    While this is a good instruction guide, I recommend to also look at OWC’s instruction video about drive installation, before starting the exercise. Those install videos are very detailed and useful.

    Ernst -

    Main advice: TAKE YOUR TIME with the pizza roller.

    Make several passes, until you really feel like there's no more sticker in the way. Stay away from the camera though (approx. 1inch / 2.5cm on both sides). This will reduce the work left with the plastic card. Adhesive is really on the edge of the screen so there is absolutely no need to go any further than the recommended 1cm / 3/8inch depth.

    Where are the sensitive parts?

    Facing your iMac, imagine you're looking at a watch. There are antennas on 1, 2 and 4 o'clock. Do not insert any metal piece there (nor anywhere else, btw). Other than that AND the screen cables underneath the camera, not much danger.

    Froggy Manny -

  2. QPZ14vf5mNSObPx1
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    • Setze das iMac Opening Tool an der linken Seite des Displays, in der Nähe des An/Aus Schalters beginnend, in die Spalte zwischen Glaspanel und Rückgehäuse ein.

    • Die Achse am iMac Opening Tool verhindert, dass du es zu tief einschieben kannst. Wenn du ein anderes Werkzeug verwendest, musst du aufpassen, dass du es nicht tiefer als 9 mm in das Display einschiebst.Sonst riskierst du ein Durchschneiden der Antennenkabel, was zu ernsthaften Schaden führen kann.

    Don’t get too worried about starting exactly where the picture says. The glue is stronger in some parts so just start wherever is easier and then work slowly and patiently around in the direction shown.

    Richard Cook -

    As this guide doesn’t cover replacing the adhesive strips, I found referring to the following was useful (noting that it’s not for the same model of iMac, so the modification they mention wasn’t necessary): IMac Intel 21.5 "EMC 2544 Klebestreifen ersetzen

    Alan Digby -

    It is very easy to crack the glass in front of the LCD during this step. I used the guitar pick, maybe it was too thick… crack is just on the frame but anyway it is disappointing :(

    Nikolay -

    This part of the exercise should be done with extreme patience. I took my sweet time with the opening tool, rolling it through the entire panel and enclosure gap over and over again, until I was very sure no parts were sticking together anymore. And when I thought I was I done, I decided to do it over again.

    Ernst -

    You can "warm up" the adhesive before try to cut it with the tool using a hair dryer. Heat the edges for about a minute, keep moving it so you don't cause stress in the glass. Also the above note.. use the tool and then the cards. Do not use a guitar pick or other objects as the thickness will cause you to break the front glass, which is a bonded part of the display (expensive).

    Carl Schultz -

  3. SdaoaCo1EmiD4NqV
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    • Benutze es wie einen Pizzaschneider - Rolle es entlang des Spalts und trenne dabei den Klebeschaum in der Mitte.

    • Achte darauf, dass du es immer mit dem Handgriff hinter dem Schneidrad führst. Wenn du ziehst, kann sich das Rad aus dem Griff lösen.

    • Lasse das Werkzeug die linke Seite des Displays entlang laufen.

    Erreur de traduction: "de bas en haut" et non de" haut en bas" sur le côté gauche de l'écran

    Moreau -

    If re-opening a screen that was opened and re-attached using iFixit’s adhesive strips, I would strongly recommend heating it first with an iOpener, heat gun or hair dryer. 20 minutes after attaching with the iFixit adhesive I tried to open it again with the pizza slicer to fix something and cracked the screen on the left-hand side.

    plasticpool -

  4. r1eMkSSjJdpmWr1B
    r1eMkSSjJdpmWr1B
    d6iAMVdqVUdnvYnD
    PsnDnjYNWucTLycx

    • Fahre fort und lasse das Werkzeug um die obere linke Ecke laufen.

    Ne pincez pas l’écran avec l’autre main. Vous exercez une pression inutile sur le verre et empêchez la roulette de couper le joint.

    phfoglia -

  5. sZNVaGR3f2vruyLS
    sZNVaGR3f2vruyLS
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    • Schneide die Klebeverbindung entlang der oberen linken Seite des Displays auf.

  6. vSKcLcMFSZoPp6Gp
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    • Fahre an der Oberseite des Displays fort.

    • Du kannst das Werkzeug mehrmals hin und her schieben. So trennst du so viel wie möglich von der Klebeverbindung auf.

    In this step can I cut along the display without make any damage to the front camera?

    arisnordico -

    Hi! Actually - there is no need to cut the tape around the camera area - there is no tape to cut at all! And so, the way go is easy - just pass 10 mm to the left and to the right from camera and start cutting!

    P.S. Just did the whole procedure to replace a RAM and to add SSD on PSIe an hour ago! Seems to be different reading the instructions... you know - 2/10 and so on. But it's really not that hard, trust me. I'll give it 5/10.

    P.P.S. By the way there is one trick to pass the difficult steps. Any action which requires pulling smth (motherboard, speaker, power supply unit) from the narrow crack (or should i say - slit?) at the bottom of your Imac is really not so easy.

    And the trick is to first remove a thin metal stripe with some kind of insulation on it which held by 5 small (very small!!) screws at the bottom of your Imac. After you done it - it's easy to pull everything! Pay attention to the fact that one of this 5 screws at the center are more shortly than others.

    dv1977 -

    I did all steps like this manuell but now the Display wont work only some colered strips are to see! Whats happend??

    Can anybody help me ? Maybe the connector cable is broken?

    djfanta -

    Check both connectors, probably one of them not seated well

    pzhivulin -

    You can add a SATA SSD if you already have a PCIe SSD Factory?

    kaserlik -

    If you're changing cracked EMC 2638 display to new assembly, there's two more steps:

    Step 24: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the display assembly.

    Step 25: Use the tip of a spudger to unplug bracket of the thermal sensor small cable near display data cable.

    Carefully remove scotch tape covering thermal sensor. Using iSesamo or flat tip of the spudger carefully peel the thermal sensor away.

    pzhivulin -

    omg - forgot to switch the termal sensor from the old display...

    now fan runs like crazy...

    Andrei Balotescu -

    The key thing is to never put any force on the opening tool when working through the tape. Just roll it back and forth with ease.

    Ernst -

  7. eDPbRqQfKjS4oUnZ
    eDPbRqQfKjS4oUnZ
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    • Schiebe das Werkzeug um die obere rechte Ecke des Displays.

  8. 3c3b2XusJDWQekW6
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    • Rolle das Werkzeug die rechte Seite des Displays nach unten.

  9. SAgRGwk3lGGO3ZCH
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    • Beende das Schneiden mit dem iMac Opening Tool unten auf der rechten Seite des Displays.

    • An dieser Stelle solltest du noch einmal das Werkzeug um das ganze Display laufen lassen, um wirklich soviel von der Klebeverbindung wie möglich aufzutrennen.

    Yes, do it many times to loosen the adhesive.

    Noah Ralston -

    Would be good data to show the 3 areas (wifi antennas where the "tape" is larger and covers them. The rest of the "tape" is 1.4" and easy. Also after removing the display, be sure to remove the old "tape" from both the display and the rubber parts of the case. Use the spudger to start an end and it should pull off easily. Careful on the baackside of the display as you can scratch off the black paint/covering.

    Carl Schultz -

  10. HVK2HNgts1D53wOs
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    hZXQgXJhIoKTxBwH

    • Das Werkzeug hat den größten Teil der Klebeverbindung aufgeschnitten., aber das Display ist immer noch ein wenig mit dem Gehäuse verklebt. Den letzten Rest musst du mit einer Plastikkarte lösen.

    • Lege den iMac mit der Scheibe nach oben auf den Tisch.

    • Beginne in der oberen rechten Ecke und zwänge eine Plastikkarte zwischen Display und Rahmen.

    • Achte darauf, die Karte nicht tiefer als 9 mm einzuschieben. Du könntest sonst Bauteile im Inneren beschädigen.

    this step is extremely important NOT to stick in the cards too far….. doing so, you risk a 600 euro replacement as I experienced………

    Edgar Broekema -

    I drew a 3/8” line on my cards with a marker first.

    Max Romano -

    I’m reading this on the EU store, please change all measurements to cm/mm.

    Morgana Devina -

    @ifixit The next batch of cards you create should have a line printed on the card 3/8” in from the edges. Would make a nice reference.

    Richard Giratd -

    Here’s where OWC provides glass removal suction cups, which is a better solution than plastic cards.

    The suction cups help to easily lift the glass panel, without risking the damaging of any internal wiring that the plastic cards could cause.

    Ernst -

    Better to remove stand wedge at this point? Can’t see from pics

    derekrobinson -

  11. wUjiMGtv2IpkNB5p
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    • Verdrehe die Plastikkarte seitlich und vergrößere so den Spalt zwischen Display und Rahmen.

    • Bewege die Karte vorsichtig und langsam, damit das Displayglas nicht zu stark belastet wird - du brauchst nur einen Spalt von etwa 6 mm Breite zu öffnen.

    This part must be done very carefully or you can damage the flat cable from display, despite it was under a iron cover.

    Cassio Machado -

  12. qmVJHqIxctiuCbE5
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    • Schiebe die Karte zur Mitte des Displays hin und schneide so allen Kleber an der rechten oberen Ecke des iMac auf.

    • Halte unbedingt vor der iSight Kamera an, damit sie nicht beschädigt wird.

    You don't need to do it like this, simply open the iMac bendidng the LCD completely and use the pizza cutter to remove the adhesive.

    Felix -

    Using glass removal suction cups will avoid running this risk of damaging the camera (or any wiring).

    Ernst -

  13. pwG3JFqqfxxQXLID
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    • Zwänge die Plastikkarte erneut in die obere rechte Ecke ein und lasse sie dort stecken. Damit verhinderst du, dass sich die Teile wieder verkleben.

  14. B1l4C4H1WK3CwfsH
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    • Setze eine zweite Plastikkarte an der oberen linken Ecke des iMac in den Spalt zwischen Rahmen und Display ein.

  15. 1eeYyLOXUgoVdMcU
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    • Verdrehe die Karte nach oben, vergrößerte so den Spalt zwischen Rahmen und Display ein wenig.

    • Drehe, genau wie an der anderen Seite, langsam und lasse dem Klebstoff Zeit beim Auftrennen. Achte drauf, das Displayglas nicht zu stark zu belasten.

  16. 1AtMSKY35dfSoyov
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    • Fahre mit der Karte zur Mitte hin, halte auch hier wieder vor der iSight Kamera an

  17. KlhOFUANthUfPZrW
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    • Zwänge die Karte wieder bei der linken oberen Ecke ein.

  18. xXVPepFcNBfFlYLm
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    • Verdrehe nun beide Karten seitlich, wie im Bild zu sehen an den Ecken eingesetzt, und vergrößere den Spalt zwischen Gehäuse und Display.

    • Wenn manche Stellen noch verklebt erscheinen und sich nicht trennen lassen, dann musst du aufhören zu verdrehen und mit einer der Karten die Klebestelle auftrennen.

    • Fange an, die Oberkante des Displays vom Rahmen weg zu heben.

    • Hebe es nur ein paar Zentimeter an - die Datenkabel und Versorgungskabel des Displays sind immer noch am Logic Board angeschlossen.

  19. coWtr2k1cFvjti6u
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    • Während du das Display mit einer Hand nach oben hältst, trenne mit der anderen Hand das Stromkabel des Displays.

    • Hebe das Display nur so weit an, dass du genug Platz hast, um an den Anschluss zu kommen, jedoch nicht so weit, dass du die Kabel dehnst und ihre Anschluss überbeanspruchst (~20cm).

    Pulling the display power cable by the wires makes me nervous..

    bstaud -

    I had a small flight light ready so I could see. Follow the directions - don’t blindly pull.

    Noah Ralston -

    Head lamp gives you the best hands free view!

    Macrepair SF -

    bstaud - The display power cable has two squeezable levers on each end of the cable’s width.

    Squeeze the left lever with your thumb while you simultaneously squeeze the right lever with your

    index finger, and gently pull the cable straight back and out, and the cable comes out very easily.

    Ted Horodynsky -

    When reassembling, make sure you get a “click” confirmation that both the levers have locked AND the pins have seated on this connector. I was treated to a black screen upon startup, and had to re-cut my newly installed adhesive strips to get back in to firm up this connection. Better would be power up with the bottom adhesive in place, screen resting in place and held on top with blue painter tape to confirm connections, THEN pull off screen-side adhesive tape covers for final re-bonding.

    Robert McKillip -

    Can someone post a link to actually purchase these cables?

    Jay Hernandez -

    E-bay had one for me

    Roger -

  20. LhWm4T3JEHaeoZ2T
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    • Klappe die Metalllasche am Anschluss des Display-Datenkabels mit einem Spudger hoch.

    • Ziehe das Display-Datenkabel vorsichtig aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Achte darauf, dass du den Verbinder des Display-Datenkabel gerade aus dem Sockel herausziehst.

    Sure could use a magnified picture of this connector and socket, especially the first time you go in. And it is the most critical step of the whole operation — bung it up and we’re toast.

    bstaud -

    Hi bstaud! If you hover over the image you can click on the magnifying glass and get a large image of any guide photo. Hope that helps!

    Sam Goldheart -

    To clarify, the connector pulls out in the plane of the logic card, not perpendicular.

    David Thompson -

  21. ZTsCHu1PYMxnNnAh
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    • Hebe das Display an, bis es fast senkrecht ist.

    • Es gibt immer noch einen Klebestreifen an der unteren Kante des Displays, der den Display wie eine Art Scharnier mit dem Rahmen verbindet. Klappe das Display einige Male auf und zu, um den Kleber zu lösen.

    Where can I find a replacement display for my iMac?

    Braydon Boyce -

    iFixit has listings for replacements. Go to the Parts section

    jerrid_foiles -

  22. WSghCUsAmCI5ItdL
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    c5IUYOrEHeUkIKdF

    • Wenn nötig, kann eine Plastikkarte helfen, den unteren Klebestreifen vollständig zu abzutrennen.

    Cutting through this extra adhesive on the bottom took a bit more effort than the step and picture implied (to me). Unlike the other edges, here don't be afraid to really push the card in there to break the seal, there's nothing behind that adhesive that is breakable.

    phil -

    cutting through the adhesive is unnecessary if it's not been opened before (outside of an apple store) there will be a tab at the end of each VHB strip that you can use to simply pull the vhb strips off.

    Rory McKenna -

    YES, exactly the same here. more but more simple.

    Lucio Alves -

    To save a few steps and a bit of time, if you have a helper, they can hold the display at a 90° angle while you unscrew the brackets and remove/replace the hard drive rather than remove the display entirely. Also reduces the likelihood of damaging the display as you remove and handle it.

    marty -

    The proper way to remove the display according to the Macintosh tech manual and videos is as Rory McKenna and Lucio Alves have learned is to pull the tab at the end of each VHB strip until it is off.

    Ben Varela -

    This worked great! look for small left over adhesive on either edge of the bottom of the screen and pull each one towards the center. Screen assembly removes after that with no fuss.

    Miguel Rivas -

  23. AuGIfUNivY1BMtep
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    • Hebe das Display nach oben aus dem Rahmen und entferne es aus dem iMac heraus.

    • Möglicherweise musst du an einer Seite anfangen, das Display langsam anzuheben, um den Rest des Klebebandes zu lösen.

    • Sei vorsichtig bei der Handhabung des Displays. Es ist groß, schwer und aus Glas.

  24. QMqfyRTWUxyD6PaN
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    • Entferne folgende fünf Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche die untere Displayhalterung befestigen:

    • Vier 3,2 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 1,7 mm Schraube

    • Es gibt aber auch EMC2544-Geräte, bei denen alle fünf Schrauben gleich sind.

    • Du musst eventuell die Verklebung am unteren Rand der Gehäuseöffnung ablösen, um an alle Schrauben zu gelangen.

    I used the CR-V 4.0 standard screwdriver head to help peel away the adhesive lining. My fingers were too big to grab it, and my fingernails too short to get the removal started. This 4 screw head worked perfectly.

    airshack -

  25. NUQ4YmOm2RlEEAAO

    • Entferne die untere Displayhalterung von der Gehäuseöffnung.

    Of all the parts of this entire procedure, replacing this one piece is the hardest part! The screws are tiny and they just don’t seem to want to grab the support piece. Also it seems to perform no function which is also annoying.

    John M -

    I left mine out. LOL

    jerrid_foiles -

    Line up the screw holes and press on the bracket from the back to help the screws grab. If your fingers are too big, press with the flat side of your spudger. As long as there’s no gap between the bracket and the iMac’s frame, the screws should grab easily.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I put it in at a slight angle lining up the right hand side holes, screwed in the two screws and gently pressed my finger behind it on the rest

    jmorphett5 -

    If you only want to replace the HD and RAM, take a big shortcut and leave the logic board in, as well as all the parts needed to remove it (speaker, power supply etc). Once the display is removed, just take out the fan and the top two logic board screw. There is than sufficient space to gently remove and insert the two ram modules. HD can easily be replaced with an SSD by just removing the HD mounting brackets...

    diddl14 -

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    • Löse mit einem Spudger den Stecker am Kabel des rechten Lautsprechers von seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Es geht leichter, wenn du auf beiden kurzen Seiten des Steckers nach unten drückst, um ihn so aus seinem Sockel "herauswandern" zu lassen. Sei vorsichtig mit den Ecken des Steckers, sie brechen leicht ab.

    • Ziehe den Stecker nach unten, um ihn aus dem Sockel zu lösen.

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    • Entferne die beiden 10,0 mm T10 Torx Schrauben, welche den rechten Lautsprecher am Rückgehäuse befestigen.

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    • Setze eine Spudgerspitze zwischen den rechten Lautsprecher und das Antennenkabel, welches entlang der rechten Seite des Lautsprechers verläuft.

    • Lasse den Spudger entlang der rechten Seite des Lautsprechers nach unten laufen, um das Antennenkabel so aus seinem Kanal herauszuholen.

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    • Hebe den rechten Lautsprecher hoch und entferne ihn vom iMac.

    • Der Lautsprecher ist im Rückgehäuse fest eingezwängt, es geht leichter, wenn du den Lautsprecher beim Herausziehen seitlich hin und her kippst.

  30. eJkD4BRQM4pFSEkg

    • Entferne folgende Torx T10 Schrauben, welche die Festplattenhalterung am Rückgehäuse befestigen:

    • Zwei 21 mm Schrauben an der linksseitigen Festplattenhalterung

    • Eine 9 mm Schraube

    • Eine 27 mm Schraube

    Pay attention to this photo and where the fan is. It is 180° from where the previous step shows it is oriented to you.

    Max Romano -

  31. jjmgaJBQQ3GCBXAJ
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    • Entferne die links- und rechtsseitige Festplattenhalterung vom iMac.

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    • Die nächsten Schritte bringen deine Hände in die Nähe der offenen Oberfläche der Netzteilplatine. Fasse diese und die offenen Lötstellen nicht an , um einen Stromschlag von den vielen großen Kondensatoren auf der Platine zu vermeiden.

    • Drücke mit der Spudgerspitze abwechselnd auf jeder Seite des Steckers am Kabel zum Netzschalter und lasse ihn langsam aus dem Sockel "herauswandern".

    I would advise that before removing the PSU unit and all other components from the bottom of the case that you remove the 5 screws at the bottom of the display which hold an insulation strip in place.

    The guide shows this piece removed, but does not tell you how to remove it.

    There will be 5, small J1000 screws. The middle one, which goes over Apple Logo is the shorter one of the 5, all others are the same length. Once this piece is gone removing the components is much easier, and chance of damage lessened.

    [deleted] -

    Added to the guide. Thanks for the tip!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    No need to remove power board and logic board and all other components, just remove the fan and it is quite "easily" accessable to change the RAM. Just need to use the tools to remove the old RAM and carefully install the new RAM.

    I just did it without removing the logic or power board

    Oleksandr Trokhymchuk -

    could you elaborate a little more, I would love to skip the rest of these steps. How did you accomplish this?

    ej P -

    Oleksandr Trokhymchuk,

    Thank you! You just saved me so much time! I wouldn’t call this “easy” but it saved me a lot of time and effort.

    Joshua Ericson -

    ej P: remove the fan assembly first. Then remove the connector that runs from the iSight camera to the logic board on the left.

    the RAM is located right near that cable. It’s tricky to remove but you can pop open the connectors with a black nylon stick and the RAM chip will pop up at 45 degrees. Make a mental note on which way you will need to install the new ram as it’s tough to see. For the Crucial memory I got it was label side facing away you (facing towards rear metal enclosure).

    the second chip has a plastic adhesive piece on it that you should probably attach to the new ram.

    remove both chips then install the new ram in sequence from the board out.

    Wizdom On Wheels -

    In the photo for Step 28, the power button cable connector is placed around the power board screw hole on the top left of the power board.

    However, on the iMac I upgraded, the power button cable connector was “fed” through the power power screw hole on the top left of the power board. The cable was too short to run around and below the hole.

    Hence, I had to ensure the cable was “fed” through the hole during re-assembly and the screw carefully screwed back through the hole.

    I guess every iMac is assembly just a bit differently, just to make repairs that much more fun.

    Tim Telcik -

    This is not correct and may have been assembled incorrectly during a previous repair.

    Charlie Nancarrow -

    Just replaced the hard drive and RAM with SSD and 16GB respectively and did NOT remove the power supply or logic board. Tricky is a word to describe putting the RAM in without removing the logic board. You work in the dark with little room to get your fingers in between the logic board and the back of the case. I put the first RAM chip in without a problem (the one next to the logic board), but the second to four tries and dropped it behind the logic board three times before finally getting it to position correctly. Just impossible to see and must work but feel. Still it was faster than removing all the components… though did remove the fan (needed cleaning anyway). All in all I can’t say enough about the help the guide was through the upgrade ! Thanks !

    Ray Burgard -

    I found this connector to be very tight and was afraid of breaking it off. I just kept slowly working on it—it did eventually come out.

    I did try to sneak the RAM in without removing the logic board but my fingers were too big. I found it too difficult and just continued on with this guide.

    Mikkif -

    I was not able to install the memory without removing all the components. My fingers are too big and I could barely get in that tight spot to swap out the memory. The hardest part about the power supply is that one connector under the chin next to the Apple logo. Once it is out, you are home free because it is so easy to plug it back in when you are putting it all back together again. Ridiculous that Apple did not put a simple access door behind those memory slots because they are on the backside of the Mac! They did an access door on the PowerBooks and it did not ruin the appearance. They could have designed a cool looking pop out door that only had a thin seam around it so it would still look good. Then you could remove the access door to upgrade the memory easily.

    Peter Hillman -

    Does anyone know if this is the same situation as in the 2017 model? I just changed RAM in the 2017 version and also skipped taking out the logic board. I just bent a pair of tweezers and put some tape around the tips to make them less scratchy and used them to place the RAM modules into the slots. Worked supereasy and much much quicker than performing the complete tear down of the whole machine.

    Nils Witte -

    This step is impossible!

    Cecily Walker -

    @wizdomonwheels, I don’t see how I can get the RAM shield off of the logic board to access the RAM without removing the logic board. What am I missing?? I’m guessing that those of you that are suggesting this technique are working on older iMac models that don’t have the RAM shield.

    jiclark -

    Yes, you are correct. It is likely the various steps are a bit different on each model. If I recall I was likely working on a 2015 or older system. If there’s a shield in the way, I can’t think of a way you could get around it without pulling the logic board.

    Wizdom On Wheels -

  33. FRyHHB3eYim1Mlap
    FRyHHB3eYim1Mlap
    QYTUyMIUOCpNBKj3

    • Drücke vorsichtig mit der Spudgerspitze abwechselnd an jeder Seite des Steckers der Netzteilsteuerung, um ihn aus seinem Sockel "herauswandern" zu lassen.

  34. CH3APYFIpiKhphHv

    • Entferne die beiden 7,2 mm Torx T10 Schrauben, welche das Netzteil am Rückgehäuse befestigen.

    • In neueren iMac Modellen sind dies 7,2 mm Torx T8 Schrauben.

    • Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass sich das Kabel zur Einschalttaste nicht hinter der Leiterplatte verfängt.

    In my case, the left side corner of the PS was caught against the Lower Support Bracket, and I had to remove the LSB in order to get the PS freed and out.

    I think the author Walter Galan should put this in the main section of his instructions. I have TWO identical iMac 14,1 / i5 2.7GHz / 21 Inch Late 2013 / Order ME086LL/A. They both required removing the LSB. Thank you very much Walter Galan & others for your contributions.

    Ted Horodynsky -

    Those screws were definitely not T10 but T9 on my unit

    Vincent Monteil -

    Those screws were T8 on my unit.

    jag32mobile -

  35. ydiE3k5Fa2YpKhyx
    ydiE3k5Fa2YpKhyx
    2WOoukeWyEZYOdGS

    • Wenn du am Netzteil arbeitest, musst du sehr vorsichtig sein: berühre keine Kondensatoranschlüsse oder auch Lötstellen auf der Rückseite. Fasse die Platine nur an den Kanten an.

    • Kippe das Netzteil nach vorne.

    When replacing the PSU (on the re-build) take care not to trap the power button cable behind it - I did...

    Dave Hallett -

  36. PKvyIF2PGHKLVC2I
    PKvyIF2PGHKLVC2I
    QS1usHIbpanvhs6M
    mWlTKHdQmhbCG6Sm

    • Ziehe das Netzteil leicht hoch und aus dem Rückgehäuse heraus.

    • Drehe das Netzteil gegen den Uhrzeigersinn, so dass die rechte Seite etwa 2,5 cm höher als die linke ist.

    In my case, the left side corner of the PS was caught against the Lower Support Bracket, and I had to remove the LSB in order to get the PS freed and out.

    I think the author Walter Galan should put this in the main section of his instructions. I have TWO identical iMac 14,1 / i5 2.7GHz / 21 Inch Late 2013 / Order ME086LL/A. They both required removing the LSB. Thank you very much Walter Galan & others for your contributions.

    Ted Horodynsky -

  37. wWakaG6mtCcwjET3
    wWakaG6mtCcwjET3
    yOSa1on1CEscZMhj

    • Schiebe das Netzteil nach rechts um es von den Schraubenpfosten am Rückgehäuse zu befreien.

  38. jLV1p6yQHGorKX6J
    jLV1p6yQHGorKX6J
    RXTvMCHuVc2YG6Bw
    AhUBHxjjc4AVbOIJ

    • Rücke das Netzteil nach vorne und entferne es aus seinem Sitz im Rückgehäuse.

    • Versuche noch nicht, das Netzteil ganz vom iMac zu entfernen, es ist immer noch mit dem Logic Board verbunden.

  39. qeKSCvwUpYnww3Xq
    qeKSCvwUpYnww3Xq
    DpV1XSNW6lES4k6h

    • Sei ganz vorsichtig und berühre keine Lötstellen oder Kondensatorkabel auf der Rückseite der Versorgungsplatine. Fasse nur die Kanten an.

    • Drehe das obere Teil des Netzteils zu dir, um an den Stecker der Gleichstromversorgung hinter dem Logic Board zu kommen.

    • Drücke die Lasche am Stecker der Gleichstromversorgung zusammen und ziehe ihn gerade aus seinem Sockel auf der Rückseite des Logic Boards.

    when pulled the cable, even slightly, the actual female piece that connects to the logic board came off. am i screwed?

    Racheal Major -

    Repairing sockets that come off the logic board is possible, but very specialised work. Unless you have a magnifying lamp and the necessary desoldering and soldering skills, it will be difficult but not impossible.

    Charlie Nancarrow -

    The tab is at the far end of the connector, so you’ll need to reach farther than you might think.

    lkollar -

    When I pulled the disconnect, I pushed down on the disconnect, instead of pushing down on the tab on the disconnect and bent those pins… tried to straighten the bent pins and two of the pins broke off the logic board. Will I need a new logic board or can I purchase the pins…?

    Ray AA -

    I could not disconnect this cable without fear of breaking something (as previous posters did). I found that I could skip this and the next step by wrapping the power supply in a couple layers of a small towel (to prevent shorting with any other metal surfaces), and laying the power supply on the aluminum face of the iMac near the Apple logo. This got it out of the way enough to do what I needed on the logic board (changing PRAM battery) after completing removal of the other items in this guide.

    Phil McInnis -

  40. X1O2EONkUfMWVDIU
    X1O2EONkUfMWVDIU
    afj3FkjCDfAuRAC3
    IpAy5PoZ5NsXFekL

    • Es ist wahrscheinlich hilfreich, wenn du für die nächsten Schritte den den iMac mit der Rückseite auf den Tisch legst.

    • Drücke die Raste an der Seite des Steckers des Wechselstromkabels mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers nach innen.

    • Halte die Raste mit dem Spudger gedrückt, fasse das Wechselstromkabel an und ziehe den Verbinder aus seinem Sockel.

    I didn't disconnect the input cable to the power supply. Because I had the machine lying on its back throughout, I placed it on to the metal bit at the bottom of the machine instead (with a cloth to stop the metal getting scratched). The AC inlet cable was pretty tricky to get un-locked, and the PSU sat on the case fine. It didn't hinder anything else throughout the guide.

    Dave Hallett -

    I thought from Dave’s comment that I could leave the power supply completely in place, but I was mistaken. In order to remove the hard drive assembly after you remove the center screw in it, you’ll need to at least unscrew it and the HD assembly will slip out. Like Dave said, you don’t need to unplug the AC or PSU, which I left hanging.

    Getting power supply to the logic board unplugged is also tricky without unscrewing the two bottom screws. They didn’t make this part easy.

    delacrj2 -

    Kleiner Rechtschreibfehler - statt „denac“ muss es wohl „den iMac“ heißen

    Gonzalo -

    Au ja. Du kannst so was selbst ausbessern. Einfach auf “Übersetzen" gehen und loslegen.

    VauWeh -

    I would like to thanks Dave Hallett for his tip of not removing the AC inlet connector of the power supply. I simply wrapped the board in bubble wrap and taped to the iMac case, out of the way, thus giving access to the remaining disconnection procedures and preventing the board from scratching to the iMac case. It also made reassembly much simpler.

    Rob Hogan -

    Yeah, that AC inlet plug was a nasty one to unplug, mainly because I was trying not to bump the solder joints on the PSU. After a few wiggles and pulls while manipulating the spudger tool to release the clip, it finally unplugged. Made it easier by removing the PSU completely so you don’t have to worry about it. Don’t worry, plugging it back in is a breeze!

    Peter Hillman -

    With the right tool this plug comes out very easily. Forget about your tiny computer tools, go to the garage and grab a regular old needle nose pliers. Grab the clip and the plug at the same time. The plug will come right out.

    Carin Ann Loewen -

    Carin Ann— The most helpful comment on this procedure. After reading what you wrote I maneuvered the board, grabbed the clip with my left hand (a little awkward because of the cooling enclosure), squeezed the front of the plug, and got it out.

    Glen Kohler -

    +1 for needle nose pliers!

    Sam -

  41. 2VMnTxjOOO1L43of

    • Entferne das Netzteil vom iMac.

    erreur: retirer "la carte d'alimentation" et non" le disque dur" !!!!!

    Moreau -

  42. MkTJwvORcrF5CvyT
    MkTJwvORcrF5CvyT
    QgRPqJhkQUc1vXIW

    • Ziehe vorsichtig den Stecker des Lüfterkabels gerade aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

  43. 2o6AJAWJjZVimeXw

    • Entferne die drei 12,3 mm Torx T10 Schulterschrauben, die den Lüfter am Rückgehäuse befestigen.

  44. TRvDCxgBsRa6wvKc
    TRvDCxgBsRa6wvKc
    3rJnTaH3BFpND4J6

    • Entferne den Lüfter vom iMac.

  45. rAirT1GHZP1qpIqC
    rAirT1GHZP1qpIqC
    FI1BVEajFcTkxyGe
    fH3KYDKkVeWLdH2L

    • Hebe die Festplatte am Rand in der Nähe des Logic Board an und ziehe sie etwas aus ihrem Sitz.

    • Die Festplatte ist noch über die SATA Kabel für Daten und Stromversorgung angeschlossen, versuche also noch nicht sie ganz zu entfernen.

    The newer drives have rubber ends and an adhesive side, be careful removing them if replacing the drive and be sure they are securely pushed back into the holder

    Carl Schultz -

  46. xAT4mnLlMEmZaE1l
    xAT4mnLlMEmZaE1l
    nUVTcTkKjNk2phCg

    • Löse das SATA Combo Kabel für Daten und Stromversorgung, indem du mit dem Spudger vorsichtig seinen großen Plastikverbinder weg von der Festplatte hebelst.

    When reconnecting the SATA cable, there is nothing to make the connector hold still, and it is hard to reach, so it took several tries. I ended up taking off the rubber baby buggy bumpers to get more room, and then jamming them back on after getting the SATA connector snugged up.

    bstaud -

    If by rubber baby buggy bumper, you mean left speaker, then yes, I agree. Reinstall the hard drive before the left speaker.

    jerrid_foiles -

    Kudo to @jerrid_foiles! I was going crazy trying to attach the SATA cable until I took the two screws out of the left speaker and slid the top end of it aside by about 3/4 inch. Make the whole process SO MUCH easier!!

    jiclark -

    We solved this by removing the hard drive tray screw, then inserting the cable into the SATA hard drive. Then hold the hard drive a bit out of the way to insert the 7.3mm hard drive tray screw.

    Marjie -

    Agree with this method, found it an impossible task to reconnect the SATA connector until removed the tray screw, then it was relatively easy to reconnect and then replace the tray screw.

    daveedwards -

    Also agree with this method!

    jmorphett5 -

  47. gPY6hXsOGJ1vn6ij

    • Entferne die Festplatteneinheit vom iMac.

    When reassembling, I found it easier to loosen the HD tray screw from Step 48 and pull the tray outwards from the left side in order to plug the SATA cable in more easily.

    Cool_Breeze -

    Thanks! I, too, had a hard time reconnecting the SATA cable.

    boboswell -

    I found this helpful too!

    Anwar -

    And DON’T do what I did, which is to remove the left speaker - which can easily lead to breaking the cable between the power on button and the power supply. The cable is routed through a hidden slot at the very bottom of the left speaker

    bsmith1 -

    I did loosen the speaker so I could get a tool behind the SATA cable to push it on to the SSD drive. Otherwise hard to align cable.

    Noah Ralston -

    I found the easiest way to connect the SATA cable was to not screw the plastic hard drive tray down until you plug the drive in. That way you can easily push the connector in and due to the cable you’ve got some wiggle room. You can position the tray then just lift one end of the drive up and secure the screw. Then just push the drive down.

    Chris Caldwell -

    This was the step that I had the most trouble with. I’m used to replacing a hard drive in a MacBook Pro, where the “plug” that you plug the drive into is a rigid thing that you can firmly press the hard drive into.

    With the iMac, the plug is situated on the end of a non-rigid cord, so the plug moves back when you try to snap a drive into it. Also, those two rubber gasket things that you adhere to the side of the drive really make it difficult to maneuver the now-overly-chubby drive towards the plug.

    After must frustration/concern, what I ended up doing was temporarily removing the rubber gasket things, using the “spudger” as kind of a lever behind the “plug on a cord” so that it didn’t move as much, and then pushed the gasket-less SSD into the plug.

    Once I got it connected, I put the rubber gaskets back on the sides of the SSD and kind of coaxed it down into place, using the pointy end of the spudger to get the chubby corner pieces to “sit” correctly in the rigid plastic tray that the SSD kind of rests in.

    Jack OnFlickr -

    From another comment elsewhere on this repair, I *highly* recommend removing the two screws holding the left speaker in place, then sliding it just a tad out of the way to be able to easily attach the SATA cable. You don’t have to move it much to make the whole process so much easier!

    jiclark -

  48. RSuWcmeILRrGSqPx

    • Entferne die einzelne 7,2 mm Torx T10 Schraube, welche den Festplatteneinschub am Rückgehäuse befestigt.

    HD Screw is a T9 on mine

    TheStudioDrummer -

  49. xRqCe1CvwZtfgnge

    • Entferne den Festplatteneinschub vom Rückgehäuse.

    You will have to reroute the sata cable beneath too. The drive tray will not simply lift out.

    biscuit -

  50. HNodnvFDOXqhlMXA
    HNodnvFDOXqhlMXA
    BHA24EFAL6YMxDX5

    • Drücke abwechselnd mit der Spudgerspitze an jeder Seite des Steckers vom linken Lautsprecherkabel und lasse so den Stecker "herauswandern".

    A step is entirely missing here – removing the right speaker cable connection from the logic board and also removing the right speaker casing (all the pictures below show it already having been removed). You actually don't need to entirely remove the right speaker to get the logic board out but you will need to remove its screws and lift it slightly. And you will need to remove its plug from the motherboard but that's not hard and it looks identical to the left speaker plug/socket.

    biscuit -

    This does need adding to the guide if anyone from ifixit sees this!

    Alan Digby -

  51. I4FHPJSY2RdIAKpM
    I4FHPJSY2RdIAKpM
    IQI3FAcDkqTiluDN

    • Löse, falls nötig, mit einer Pinzette vorsichtig das Klebeband ab, welches das Kabel zum linken Lautsprecher am SATA Daten/Versorgungskabel befestigt.

    Actually i didn't get why should i unstick the tape which gum up left speaker cable to the SATA data/power cable. It's gonna be hard to bond the tape again cause it looses the clue ability. I can definetely claim that there is no need to touch the tape.

    dv1977 -

    I too can say that there was no reason to remove the tape.

    [deleted] -

    Agreed. I completed the repair without removing the tape.

    phil -

  52. xq3p5oA32AQSGXOU
    xq3p5oA32AQSGXOU
    cAsGVAibIgvPwglG
    kWMRbvqbuWHtgfoo

    • Fädle das linke Lautsprecherkabel aus, indem du es direkt aus seiner Halteklammer hinten am Rückgehäuse herausziehst.

    • Hebe auf gleiche Art das SATA Combokabel für Daten/Versorgung aus der Halteklammer.

  53. QOf3XLqDJv4DX6qS
    QOf3XLqDJv4DX6qS
    iIaZuRoBXMJZf2yr
    nUSEuwt2ELiWHnFN

    • Klappe den metallenen Sicherungsbügel am Stecker des Kabels zur iSight Kamera mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.

    • Ziehe das Kabel zur iSight Kamera gerade aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Ziehe nicht zu stark. Das ist ein sehr empfindlicher Stecker, der leicht beschädigt werden kann.

  54. klKX1IlEy4VhPbuC
    klKX1IlEy4VhPbuC
    CMiYZkC6TLCaqOvG
    TmpLRCDUoI4eAwdU

    • Löse die vier Antennenstecker mit der flachen Kante des Spudgers von der AirPort /Bluetooth Karte.

    • Merke dir die richtige Position der einzelnen Stecker für den Zusammenbau.

    Be careful and tender here, otherwise you risk that the connectors brake

    Andreas -

    Agreed, super easy to bend these and break them.

    jctracey -

    i found it helpful to use the flat end of the spudger under the cable near the connector and gently wiggle the spudger until the cable was disconnected.

    Tim Telcik -

    Agreed, I broke one connector. The airport seems to work anyway. But what to do to fix it? Change the airport card or try to weld it again?

    Paolo Galante -

    I mark each cable tip with a different colored sharpie and then take a Pic. This gives me the order and the angle of orientation in order to reconnect these pesky connectors.

    Macrepair SF -

    OK, so when did you remove the RIGHT speaker? Suddenly it is not in the photos. I s there anything besides it's plug to remove?

    Carl Schultz -

  55. pkNvFYKvIasFOKqU
    pkNvFYKvIasFOKqU
    P4sSeqDOsEvGEQok
    ZVGYLswMDOwsAKFP

    • Hebele den Verbinder des Kabels zur Kopfhörerbuchse mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Schiebe das Kabel leicht nach rechts, damit es beim Entfernen des Logic Boards nicht stört.

    The photo in Step 51 shows the right speaker missing, however there is no step prior for removing the right speaker.

    Hence, refer to this other guide to remove the right speaker *before* Step 51.

    iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2638 rechten Lautsprecher austauschen

    Tim Telcik -

    Its there! Step 28 & 29 is the removal, the left one doesn’t need to be removed.

    Dan -

  56. wfvHpJ2HrgULGWTR

    • Entferne folgende Torx T8 Schrauben, welche den Lüfterkanal am Rückgehäuse befestigen:

    • Zwei 6,3 mm Schrauben

    • Zwei 4,7 mm Schrauben

    I have the Manta 64 bit kit and the driver that comes with that kit is too short/fat to reach that right 4.7mm T8 screw. I cant fit it past the logic board. i’ll have to find a T8 with a longer shaft or a skinny extension bit

    Nick -

    edit: nvm I didn’t see the smaller TR8 bit but I’m good now!

    Nick -

    A T9 bit fits and grips the screws tight enough to make it easier to work with the deep 4.7mm screw.

    johann beda -

  57. gHYsgMXUPsvMEPPv

    • Entferne die vier 7,2 mm Torx T10 Schrauben, welche das Logic Board am Rückgehäuse befestigen.

    So a major problem for me here — my iMac (purchased 2018 ) has a solid circular fastener where the lower left T10 screw should be. So I think I’m dead in the water as far as getting the logic board off to put the new RAM in. I can’t see how people can insert the ram from behind without seeing it or being able to get two fingers to the tabs. I’m so frustrated with the design of this computer.

    jctracey -

    That’s a new one on us! We’d love to see a photo. Any chance it’s a tamper-proof sticker hiding the head? You may also be able to turn it with a set of pliers if you can get a decent grip, just be careful not to bump any board components!

    Sam Goldheart -

    It’s a tamper proof sticker. I started to peel it up, but it was just easier to press the screwdriver bit in.

    as an update, these are now T8 screws

    cwaldrip -

  58. mphplmAwyTb25ocY
    mphplmAwyTb25ocY
    VF3gGx2gnSgMxHxb
    cVpJbUOHS1rdp63o

    • Kippe die Oberkante des Logic Boards weg vom Rückgehäuse.

    • Hebe das Logic Board gerade hoch und aus dem iMac heraus.

    • Achte darauf, dass sich das Logic Board nicht an einem der Schraubenpfosten verhakt.

    • Die I/O-Platinen unten am Logic Board sind dabei die größte Herausforderung. Sei sehr vorsichtig, um jegliche Schäden zu vermeiden.

    If you have a helper (or if you're very coordinated and careful), you can very likely lift up the logic board far enough to replace both RAM modules without pulling the logic board all the way out. Just be careful what you touch, of course.

    phil -

    This is the trickiest part of the whole operation. It took me a solid half hour to get the logic board out. I’m sure it would be easier a second time, because there’s not many delicate components around the USB/Internet sockets, so you can be a little more assertive with it than I felt comfortable doing.

    David Thompson -

    i found the logic board kept snagging on the USB connectors poking through the exterior case. Wiggle the logic gently to extract..

    Tim Telcik -

    There are two connections underneath, where the HDD cables plug in. This should be pointed out; they pulled loose when I removed the logic board and I didn’t notice until I had most of it put back together.

    lkollar -

    Take out the two screws that hold down the right speaker, and push it up a little, before removing the logic board. It makes things a lot easier.

    Also: there’s a cable on the right side of the logic board that isn’t called out. Nor are the two HDD cables that plug into the underside of the logic board.

    lkollar -

    Photo shows right speaker removed, but this is not in the steps. I loosened it and disconnected its cable. Otherwise, the logic board wasn’t going to come out safely.

    ken -

  59. aXrO3HIsZLM6VVUu
    aXrO3HIsZLM6VVUu
    E2qQhWqcQr5jIGXO

    • Beim Wiedereinbau des Mainboards sollte darauf geachtet werden, die äußeren I/O Anschlüsse richtig sitzen. Das Mainboard kann schief sitzen, auch wenn alle Schrauben festgezogen sind.

    • Stelle mit einem USB Stick und/oder einem Ethernet-Kabel sicher, dass das Mainboard beim Festschrauben an der richtigen Stelle ist.

  60. jvt5qFIeQtALTwRY

    • Entferne die einzelne Torx Schraube, welche die SSD am Logic Board befestigt.

    My wife’s iMac Late 2013 21.5” did not originally have a blade SSD installed, so there was no existing Torx T8 screw available to use on the Aura 6G I was installing. Had to use one of the 4 T8 screws from the Exhaust Duct to get the job done.

    Philip Meadows -

    Read somewhere that a certain type of adapter is needed to use a "Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe M.2" in either a 21.5" or 27" 2017 iMac. Does anyone (most likely @danj ) know if it will work?

    Long term goal...have both sizes of 2017 iMacs. Plan is to install a faster i7 cpu in 27" and migrate 3.4 GHz i5 to 21.5" to replace 3.0 GHz i5 in 21.5". While inside 27", will replace fusion drive with the EVO plus and perhaps had a larger 7200 rpm HD or perhaps a 2.5" SSD.

    While inside 21.5", i plan to upsize SSD from 500 Gb to 1 or 2 Tb. Not sure which ssd form factor is currently inside but i believe it is a 2.5". Does anyone know if there is a drive cavity in a 2017 21.5" iMac to fit a full size HD (to possibly use a stacked pair of notebook size SSDs?

    Thanks to all in advance!

    mbed -

    I really don’t recommend using M.2 SSDs in iMacs as they are a bear to open up to get to the SSD socket and many adapters/SSD sets are flaky!

    If this is a system which has important work I would stick with either an Apple or OWC bade SSD. Yes, I know! You want something with more performance. Sometimes it doesn’t pay 😖I had wished Apple would have gone with the standards based M.2 SSD’s their greed set the course! The rub is Apple has other lines in their SSD’s these adapters and M.2 SSD’s don’t offer which will bite you when your drive gets full as the wear-leveling and housekeep functions use these lines.

    As far as Samsung 970 EVO Plus drives you will need to update its firmware as they did have a few interoperability issues with macOS when used in MacBook Pro’s

    Dan -

    @danj I did get this blade SSD from OWC and it is working fine. My wife only uses this for non mission critical work now since she has a 16" MBP, but it sure beats the pants off of the old HD that shipped with the system. :-)

    Philip Meadows -

    Sorry I grabbed the wrong text to reply. Even still you wouldn’t want to loose your stuff 😢

    Dan -

  61. NZJAWxn1JCKpKDOd
    NZJAWxn1JCKpKDOd
    rXQYrqG3JSQCh6P5
    YquXbZ4t1M4vphMg

    • Hebe die SSD an der Kante ganz rechts etwas an und ziehe sie recht kräftig gerade aus ihrem Sockel auf dem Logic Board heraus.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Walter Galan

685541 Reputation

35 Kommentare

This question never been asked: what's the diameter and a length of this screw holding the PSIe SSD on motherboard? Is it there if there no SSD in the config?

dv1977 -

There is no screw in the motherboard if it did not come configured with a fusion drive.

bonnermikec -

Hi!

We still have no answer: what's the diameter and a length of this screw holding the PSIe SSD on motherboard?

Egor -

Hello , I have this model iMac 14,1. I bought the factory with hdd 1TB but without ssd . can I install a ssd and what model?

kyli17 -

Hi,

I’d like to do the same… did you upgrade your iMac? could you confirm that there is a SSD connector?

Ruggero -

I have replaced 1 21.5 originally w/o a ssd with a 2015 MacBook ssd. It was a base model i5 2.7.

im about to upgrade a i7. No ssd originally. I’m pretty sure results will be the same.

Farmerjohn832 -

HDD only systems won’t have the needed parts on the logic board to support the blade SSD. Only Fusion Drive’d and SSD models have the blade connector.

Dan -

Wrong, Dan. I just finished upgrading my parent’s late 2013 21.5” that most decidedly did NOT come with a Fusion drive and indeed the connector was right there on the back of the logic board where it should be. As to the original poster’s question: I used a SanDisk SD6PQ4M-256G-1021 I got off eBay for 60 bucks including shipping. Running OSX and Applications off that and replaced glacially slow HDD with a midrange 512GB SSD for media storage like photos, music and videos. Also bumped RAM up to 16GB and did a fresh install of latest Catalina build. Thing boots just as fast as my 2018 MBP now should be good enough for my folks for another 6 years. The only thing lacking is the non-UHD display, but my folks are in their 70’s and don’t care about that. Total investment including adhesive strips and opener tool: about 200 bucks. My folks were ready to plunk down another 1200 bucks for a new model. Sorry, Apple. THANK YOU, iFixit!

johnnycashak -

Hi

Is it posible to installe a Samsung 850 pro 512gb sad into an iMac 2013 (late) EMC:2638

or will it cause problems, with there thermal sensor?

Brian Krogh Hansen -

They make an inline cable adapter with a thermal sensor to attach to the outside

Dan -

External thermal sensor for an ssd upgrade is not needed for this model. Only for the mid 2012 models and earlier, so you'll be fine

MorbidMylar -

My 2013 21.5" iMac has a 1TB standard hard drive. I am going to increase the memory soon from 8 to 16 and want to see about installing an the SSD to go along with the 1TB. Do I have the ports on the board to be able to install this?

Thanks

Richard Gullotto -

Hi,

I’d like to do the same… did you upgrade your iMac? could you confirm that there is a SSD connector? thanks!

Ruggero -

Yes you do. I just finished this exact upgrade and it was very easy. The only hitch was finding a screw to secure the SSD blade to the logic board as none was included (obviously) I ended up pulling a housing screw from the HDD I replaced with a 2.5” Samsung SSD, which was the perfect diameter but screw head itself was a little small for a snug fit so I added a washer just to be sure.

johnnycashak -

Can somebody confirm if there is a SSD connector exist in this model of imac if is bought without SSD?

I want to buy and upgrade SSD, but i don't want open my mac first and than wait till my ordered SSD come to me.

I found that connector exist but i need someone to confirm.

http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/im...

*This model has a Serial ATA (6 Gb/s) connector for a 2.5" hard drive as well as a proprietary PCIe connector for an SSD. As reported by site sponsor OWC, if the SSD is not installed at the time of purchase, the connector still is present and later professional or self-installation is possible.

Thanks in advance

Sebastijan Sakac -

Hi,

did you upgrade your iMac? could you confirm that there is a SSD connector?

Ruggero -

I can confirm all models in this line include the connector, as the one I upgraded was the very base model and it was indeed right there on the back of the logic board. A screw to secure the SSD blade was not included, however, so you will need to source your own if you want to protect it from becoming dislodged if you ever bump or move your iMac around.

johnnycashak -

Hello! The Samsung 960 EVO Series works? someone to help me!? thanks

Rafael -

No, the Samsung 960 SSD is a M.2 drive. Apple uses a custom blade drive which is physically different.

Dan -

You are correct Dan, but there are now adapters you can purchase as a workaround for this issue. I almost went this route before deciding on a used MBP SSD instead out of cost considerations. A simple google search will give you a list of prices and configurations.

johnnycashak -

all great info. i have a 1tb version. i think i am going to just replace it with a 850 evo for now. but it would be cool to add a pcie ssd for the OS and keep the 1tb for storage. too bad there is no step by step guide to do this. even if there was, it looks like there are just a few too many steps to make it a reasonable upgrade…. typing this out, makes me think just replacing the 1tb with a 2.5 ssd is most practical.

carlosriosness -

great explanation ! I have iMac 21.5” late 2013 (EMC 2638 - Model A1418) and I want upgrade with SSD using the slot PCIe and delete the mechanical original hard disk Seagate of 1 TB

I noted that the slot PCIe is not M.2 ? is it correct ?

So we need buy an adaptor in order to install a Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe M.2. Is it correct ?

Which is the correct adaptor ? Is it available on your website ?

Otherwise the PCIe port available on motherboard working with a transfer rate of 3 GB/sec or 6 GB/sec

Last question: the hard drive original using a SATA2 tranfer rate or SATA3 transfer rate

Many thanks in advance

Gian from Italy

pescamodasport -

I used a Sintech NGFF M.2 nVME SSD Adapter from Amazon. If you use 970 EVO Plus you have to do a firmware update on the SSD. I used the 970 EVO which does not required firmware update to work. Look at Sintech instruction on Amazon product info.

ttl68_2000 -

Wo finde ich die Blade für den 2638 late 2013?

Hiltebrand -

Rezension The Ultimate Guide to Apple’s Proprietary SSDs. Sie möchten ein Samsung SSPOLARIS mit der proprietären Apple PCIe 3.0 x4-Schnittstelle.

Review The Ultimate Guide to Apple’s Proprietary SSDs. You want a Samsung SSPOLARIS which has the proprietary Apple PCIe 3.0 x4 interface.

Dan -

Hey guys, I bought this Samsung SSD 860 EVO MZ-76E500B/EU 500GB and want to replace it with the fusion drive.

I have read all the posts above, but could not find out, if I can take the other harddiscs (HDD &SSD) out and replace them with this model. And, do I need an adapter here? I appreciate your help!!

JeySign production -

Your system only has two I/O ports a SATA connection and a PCIe connection. A Fusion drive uses both ports the SATA with a HDD and the PCIe with a small SSD for a cache drive.

You’ll need to break the Fusion Drive set and just forget about the PCIe SSD. You’ll just remove the HDD and slide in your Samsung EVO SSD in its place following this guide iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2638 Festplatte austauschen

Dan -

hey, guys i just install and original apple PCIe SSD 256 GB on my iMac 21.5 late 2013 that drive was from my MacBook pro mid-2014

but doesn't work at full speed is only do 295 MB read and write but on my MacBook pro was 790 MB read and write someone can help to fix this issue

thanks

jaime benabe -

Sounds like you had a four lane SSD which is now in a two lane system!

Review this great guide! The Ultimate Guide to Apple’s Proprietary SSDs to get a deeper understanding.

Dan -

Thank you for all the helpful answers!

I’ve got a Late 2013 21.5” iMac (2638 14,1) that I have already upgraded the HDD to a Samsung 850 EVO a couple of years ago.. it’s running like a top ever since. BUT, I need more space.. and after reading that this unit has the PCIe slot for an NVMe drive.. I think I’ll just open it up and add the NVMe drive since it’ll be faster than swapping out my current SSD.

Question: Would you run the Samsung 850 EVO SSD as the Boot or Data drive? Why?

The NVMe drives I’m looking at are:

Addlink 1TB SSD NVMe PCIe 3x4 M.2 2280 Internal Solid State Drive S70 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7LRB2T

OR

SK hynix Gold P31 PCIe NVMe Gen3 M.2 2280 Internal SSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DKB5LWY

''Using the Adapter from Sintech https://www.amazon.com/Sintech-Compatibl...

Any suggestions before I open it up and make the upgrades?

Man, I really wish this had a faster PCIe slot.. like a 4x !!

Jesse Matlock -

First make sure yours has the connector! Only the systems sold as a SSD or Fusion Drive have the custom Apple SSD connector. It sounds like yours doesn’t have it.

As far as drives I really don’t recommend using M.2 SSD’s in Mac’s. I had wished Apple would had embraced the M.2 standard, they didn’t! While it is possible to install via an adapter an M.2 SSD Apple has a few extra lines which they use for sleep and garbage collection functions which is where the M.2 SSD’s fail. I’ve pulled out quite a few putting in either the Apple or OWC SSD’s as being the better solution from the start.

As far as which port drive would I use the PCIe/NVMe interface is a lot fosters such it would be better as the Boot drive (OS & Apps). This allows cache and virtual RAM to use the faster drive and lastly if you are using Windows Paging. Depending on the apps you are working with some use a scratch space which by default will be on the boot drive.

You do want a drive thats big enough to hold your OS & apps and still leave at least 1/4 of the drive unused! If you are doing big projects then more.

So the SATA drive is only used for holding the bulk data

Dan -

Thanks for the reply Dan.

If I’ve been reading correctly - All of the Late 2013 21.5” iMacs (2638) came with the PCIe port, regardless of configuration - as confirmed by several teardown videos and lots of research. Including the article you linked to above: https://beetstech.com/blog/apple-proprie... Is this incorrect?? Guess I can always open it up and find out the hard way LOL

OWC Aura Pro X2 SSD iFixIt also shows it is compatible

Anyway, it looks like going with a card made for the Apple pin type would be best.. and running the PCIe as the boot drive..

really appreciate the advice!

Jesse Matlock -

People often confuse the systems! The early 2013 don’t have the connector the late models do!

Dan -

I was able to remove the SSD just removing the speaker, the fan, the exhaust duct and the main board; no need to detach the screen from the lower edge, neither removing the lower retaining bracket or the power supply.

wfbook -

I just want to point out that all late 2013 iMacs have the slot for the Blade SSD. iFixit if you could please correct your literature it may encourage people to install the blade SSD instead of only the 2.5" SATA. to be sure I pulled apart 3 21.15" iMacs today which DID NOT ship with blade SSD drives or Fusion drives. I'd be happy to share any model info etc. So everyone feel free to upgrade to the Blade SSD as it is superior to the 2.5"

Dan D -