iPad Air 3 Headphone Jack Replacement

Geschrieben von: Robert Boyd

Kommentare: 17

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Moderate

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

1 - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Follow this guide to replace the headphone jack in an iPad Air 3. This assembly also includes the ambient light sensor.

This guide is written specifically for the Wi-Fi model. If you use this guide for the cellular model, you will need to disconnect some additional cables.

The headphone jack part is different between the Wi-Fi and cellular models. Be sure to purchase the correct part for your model!

Some of the photos in this guide were taken from a previous model. There are small differences between models, but the overall procedure is very similar.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Schritt 1

Strong adhesive holds the screen in place. In order to separate it, you'll first need to heat and soften the adhesive using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun.
You may need to reapply heat repeatedly throughout this process to prevent the adhesive from cooling and hardening.
Prepare an iOpener and place it on the bottom edge of the iPad's screen for about two minutes.

Schritt 2

If your iPad's screen is badly cracked, wear skin and eye protection. Cover the screen with a smooth layer of clear packing tape to contain glass shards and help the suction cup adhere. Alternatively, use a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) and fold it into a handle.
Place a suction cup next to the iPad's home button and press down to create a seal.
To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display.
If you want to use the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier, follow this guide.
Firmly pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.
Don't pull too hard, or you may shatter the glass. If necessary, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive.
Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap.

i used a proper suction tile puller (small one from DIY store used to hold bathroom tiles) to lift the screen off after heating around the edge using a heat gun. Be careful - It didn't damage anything. The tiny suction things that come with those iPhone kits are not strong enough for this. The one in picture might be good, but looks similar to the kits ones that have key ring.

Robert Lord -

The suction cup that comes with the iPad battery replacement is plenty large enough and strong enough.

CAUTION, do not push the picks in more than a the width of the replacement screen adhesive strips. You will damage the $200 screen, maybe break the glass. The screen is multiple layers and the picks can get in-between the layers if you push too far in. I got into trouble at the lower left corner. After getting the screen loose, I found that I only need a 2-3 millimeters on the sides and bottom, and four or five millimeters in the corners.

Gene Torrey -

Schritt 3

Slice through the adhesive under the screen by sliding the pick along the edge of the display, towards the bottom left corner.
Leave the pick in place temporarily to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Be super carful at the sides! If you insert your pick more than ~2mm, you will separate your display and front glass.

voidfish - 30/11/20

Schritt 4

Apply heat to the left edge of the iPad for about two minutes, or until it's slightly too hot to touch comfortably.
If necessary, re-heat your iOpener for a few seconds or until it's a bit too hot to touch. Be careful not to overheat the iOpener, or it may burst.
Insert a second opening pick at the bottom left corner of the iPad.
Slide the second opening pick along the left side of the display to separate the adhesive underneath.
Leave the opening pick inserted near the top left corner of the iPad to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Schritt 5

Apply heat to the top edge of the iPad for about two minutes, or until it's slightly too hot to touch comfortably.

Schritt 6

Insert a third opening pick at the top left corner of the iPad.
Use the opening pick to cut the adhesive under the top edge of the iPad by sliding it to the top right corner.
The front-facing camera is located right in the center of the iPad's top edge and can be damaged if the pick is inserted too far. Only insert the tip of the opening pick when cutting near the camera.

Schritt 7

Apply heat to the final, right edge of the iPad for about two minutes, or until it's slightly too hot to touch comfortably.
Insert a fourth opening pick at the top right corner of the iPad.
Slide the opening pick down to the bottom right corner to cut the adhesive.
Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner—pausing to apply more heat if needed—and cut the remaining adhesive on the bottom edge, but stop before you reach the home button.

We must be very careful when we are prying left and right size bezel to peel off the screen as there very little gap between edges and LCD. Slightly inside push can crack LCD. We need to pay full care and raising edges very very slowly.

iRepairMan - 25/03/20

Schritt 8

Insert a fifth opening pick at the top of the iPad near (but not directly on) the front-facing camera.
Gently twist the pick to separate the display assembly from the iPad.
Don't try to remove the display all the way yet! It is still connected to the iPad's motherboard.
If needed, apply more heat and/or cut any remaining adhesive that prevents the display from separating.

Schritt 9

Lift the display assembly from its top edge and carefully slide it up (towards the front-facing camera and headphone jack), until the screw that secures the battery power connector is revealed at the bottom.
Don't lift the display more than 70° or you may damage the attached ribbon cables.

How do you go about getting to this battery connector as it is covered by a large metal shield above the logic board, if you do not disconnect the battery you risk frying the back light.

Ayden McCormack - 28/10/19

Schritt 10

Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw that secures the battery power connector.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

What size Phillips bit?

Josh Heilik -

Schritt 11

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Schritt 12

Be careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage.
To disconnect the battery, slide one prong of a battery blocker or the tip of an opening pick under the battery power connector to ensure the power circuit is interrupted.
Don't push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force. If you're having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, you can try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card ideally should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages.
Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

I found it very hard to fit something under the battery power connector. I did not have a battery blocker, so I tried a playing card. I was not able to slide it between the springs. The section of the battery power connector, above the cantilever springs, did not seem to want to give at all, like in the picture above. If other people had success, I would love to hear how.

hdh607 -

I didn’t have success either, but i kept myself grounded, and avoided battery contact as much as possible.

Amber Wooldridge -

I used a playing card cut to shape. I had to make a couple, to try a few times.. It does go in eventually. Not deep, but enough to break connection. You can test by trying to switch on iPad.

Robert Lord -

It took some time but I was able to get it under the back part and slide it forward.

Barbara Nelson - 03/05/22

You must disconnect the battery before plugging the new screen. I think i didn't break the circuit in first attempt and shorted the screen, the result was half of the screen didn't work. I used a playing card. Second attempt was successful with new screen.

Robert Lord -

Schritt 13

Slowly lift the display from its top edge, being careful not to strain the attached ribbon cables.
Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the display connector cover bracket.
You may need to angle the driver slightly in order to avoid straining the ribbon cables.
Remove the display connector cover bracket.

Here it is very precocious steps to do. Flx cables to connectors are small in size and we cannot lift the display vertically. Therefore, we may struggle to unscrew the metal shield. We need to use smaller size of philip screw driver or place vertically the display to create enough gap between philip screw driver and the cover bracket. Similarly, when we are replacing new display we need to be carefully connect four flex cable with connectors with logic board.

iRepairMan - 25/03/20

agree, with re-assembly very tiny screws and awkward positioning, the back two cables pop off if not careful.

Tom McGrath - 10/10/20

I did this step using just the tip of the PH000 screwdriver, it made it much easier to get my hands into the small space, the replacement screen from ifixit had tighter cables that I was not comfortable stretching out to go to a 90* angle to screw back on. Make sure your tip is magnetized for best results :)!

Amber Wooldridge -

Schritt 14

Use a spudger to disconnect the two visible display flex connectors by gently prying them straight up from their sockets.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Schritt 15

Underneath, you'll find two additional display cable connectors.
Use your spudger to gently pry them up and disconnect them.

Schritt 16

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, before installing a display, remove any remaining adhesive from the iPad, and clean the glued areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.
If you plan to reinstall your existing display, remove any remaining adhesive from the back and clean the adhered areas with isopropyl alcohol.
Test your iPad's functions and install pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our display adhesive application guide before sealing it up.

Definitely test your iPad’s functions before sealing it up. I needed to reopen the display to reconnect the display connectors in order to have the display functioning properly. As a result, the adhesive strips did not work as well and I needed to tape some of the edges closed with a small section of strong clear packing tape.

hdh607 -

I stuck the adhesive to the chassis first. That was messy because the plastic that covers the adhesive seems to be for screen side first. So you end up exposing both sides and those collect dust. I now realise you're supposed to put the adhesive on screen first. Not sure if it would have made much difference in the outcome (mine screen is not stuck in some places).

Robert Lord -

Schritt 17

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the upper component bracket:
Three 1.4 mm-long screws
Two 2.4 mm-long screws

On the LTE version, there are four more additional screws at top edge to the left and right of the front facing camera, right below the antenna assemblies.

Gregg Stanley -

Schritt 18

Use a spudger to push the upper component bracket towards the upper edge and off of the clips located near the rear camera.

Schritt 19

Remove the upper component bracket.
During reassembly, make sure that the upper component bracket slides under the clips near the rear camera.

Schritt 20

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.

Schritt 21

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.8 mm-long screw securing the headphone jack to the rear case.

Schritt 22

Insert the point of an opening pick or a halberd spudger underneath the headphone jack cable.
Slide the pick or spudger towards the headphone jack to cut the adhesive securing the cable to the rear case.

Schritt 23

Insert an opening pick or a halberd spudger underneath the cable leading to the ambient light sensor.
Peel the ambient light sensor up from the headphone jack bracket.

Schritt 24

Insert an opening pick or a halberd spudger underneath the small metal tab attached to the bottom of the headphone jack cable.
Slice the adhesive securing the metal tab to the rear case.

Schritt 25

Use tweezers to pull the headphone jack straight out of the headphone jack bracket.

Schritt 26

Remove the headphone jack.
During reassembly, transfer the ambient light sensor gasket over to the new headphone jack cable.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
Follow this guide if you are using a pre-cut adhesive card to attach the new headphone jack cable to the rear case.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Air 3 Answers community for help. 

Tinte & Feder

Robert Boyd

Mitglied seit: 01/02/21

22262 Reputation

iPad Air 3 Headphone Jack Replacement

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