iPad Mini 3 LTE Front Panel austauschen

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

The iOpener did not work at all for me.

I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

My experience pt2

Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

#### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

K

Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

Get a heat gun.

I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

This is a tip:

I have a terrible time cleaning the lcd because no matter how hard I try not to touch it, I always get smudges! So take my advice…remove the front film from the new digitizer and place it over the lcd. It is bigger so you can cut it down or just lift it to get to the screws. Now no fingerprints and also less chance for scratches. The front side is easy to clean once it’s installed so need to have that covered while working-the insides are what needs protecting.

The tutorial procedure should be edited once and for all to instruct to detach the adhesive strip from the top of the LCD prior to attempting to lift it. Failure to do so will invariably result in a broken LCD!!!

The simplest way to do that is to first gently remove the foam strip running around the top of the LCD with a pair of tweezers. Only then will the shiny metallic adhesive tape be visible and accessible.

I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

Yeah, I broke my LCD because the guide did not specify the glue on the top portion if you have an LTE model. I didn’t even try hard at all. I tried to lift it with the plastic spudger and saw that it did not move. Came to check the comments and when I looked back the top corner was already broken.

Thanks iFixit! Awesome guide

Another LCD broken victim. Getting it loose from the adhesive was easy. However, it would not fold over like a book. Something had it bound at the bottom. Heard the dreaded crack. First iFixit fail for me.

Great tip about the fishing wire because you will most certainly crack the LCD just yanking it out. Thank you and hit em with the hein

I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

"mild adhesive" is really an understatement.
The LCD is firmly attached to the metal plate below it.
Especially if you try to repair an older ipad, the adhesive gets hard.
Do not attempt to lift the LCD with spudgers in an attempt to get it out.
You will break it.
Use fishing line or some other strong wire to cut loose this adhesive.
Even a strong sewing wire will do (it will take 5~6 wires because sharp edges of the housing will cut the wire easily).

I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

As others have said this step is rather problematic and following the tuturial instructions will most definitely lead to damaging the LCD. One problem is that the two adhesive tapes are not indicated in the photo: they are large and black and they are partly covered by long strips of thicker material that looks like padding. To remove them it helps to heat a little with the opener and then one can slowly peel them away by alternating the sharp and flat tips of the spudger.

This must be the most difficult part. I took the advice of using fishing line and it worked a treat. However, due to lack of knowledge - I managed to slice straight through the LCD ribbons (all of them). I figure it was glue so kept going! Please take not that fishing line is only good for the sides, not the top where the LCD is attached! New LCD on order for round 2.

Well. I cracked the LCD during this process, so another $100. But, it’s the journey that counts, right? There is adhesive keeping the LCD attached to the aluminum shield. As I was prying the LCD up (I didn't know about the adhesive), I did hear feint cracking. Also it is too tight to try to flip the LCD over as shown. I did heat the bottom strips, but still tried to do it as shown, more cracking. It seems best to heat it and push the adhesive strips back and separate them prior to lifting. As well as the sides of the LCD for lifting!!

I separated the small tape in the middle (5mm), and the large upper tape (20mm), but left the lower tape at the connector in place. That way, the LCD was much easier to pull away gently and to tilt over.

The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

The three tapes is best removed with tweezers! Then the LCD is easily flipped over. Extremely odd it’s not explained in this way.

It is MANDATORY to loosen the 3 tapes as well (step 36), don’t even try to lift it without loosening them first!!!! After you did it you can turn the screen without any resistance! Should be added in this guide!!!!

I thought that it was a successful repair and resealed the iPad and turned it back on after replacing the digitalizer and the LCD screen, yet neither the home button nor the power button are working. After holding the power button, the power will come on but just one "click" the screen does not react. I tried moving the tape around the home button from the broken digitalizer to the new digitalizer, yet neither button works. I need help ASAP, I don't want to damage the iPad screen more by leaving it unopened for extended periods of time. Any suggestions?

It pays not to take the protectors off the glass panel adhesive until you have fitted the panel and turned on the ipad to test functionality a few times. (Once the adhesive sticks, it's very difficult to take the panel back off.) Also, I ended up applying two layers of electrical tape over the copper contacts on the panel before the random actions stopped. Now I am closing my third repair on the same machine. Let's hope this one sticks.

In a kit purchased in June 2019, this operation was already done.

No mention is made of using any adhesive during the installation of the new panel. There are gobs of adhesives for many different purposes. Is there any recommendation for re-establishing an adhesive for the new panel?

Step 35b : watch for LCD white screw tabs as you pull up LCD panel so that they don't bind at the bottom and break off (definite crack)!

Step 46: was easier, at least for me, to insert spudger between frame and digitizer board (left side) rather than trying to get under it from its right side.

All of this & they could have simply made the connector cable on the front glass a snap on connector & cut out 60 steps of this repair.

I was repairing the broken glass on my iPad. A lot of the broken glass was in small fragments along the edges which made sliding the pick underneath to loosen the glass quite difficult. Things would go well until I hit a small island of broken glass and the pick would stall as the glass wouldn’t budge. It took several re-heating cycles with the microwave heat pad and a lot of patience to break those loose. In retrospect, probably could have ignored them until the bulk of the glass was removed and then _gently & patiently_ chisel them out separately.

Still had ghost touch issue with the iPad mini so I ended up purchasing Kapton tape on Amazon and used it to cover the entire bottom part of the iPad mini 2 where the Home button is, not just the gold connectors as previously suggested. Apparently this is a common issue with the iPad minis where the digitizer and home button are grounded to the iPad’s chassis. Thankfully, that resolved the issues of ghost touch and my daughter’s iPad is now working like a charm. Just wished your iFixit digitizers were properly prepped with Kapton tape from the factory. Hope this helps with other iFixit customers suffering from the same issue.

I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake

If your ipad has a dented corner, you may need to trim the new glass a bit so that it fits flush. The ipad I worked on had been dented in the corner, which what cracked the screen in the first place. The dent pushed in the metal lip enough that a replacement screen would sit on top of it, so that a little too much pressure on the glass will make it crack again. A diamond-coated file will work to file off some of the glass on the corner. Full sized Leatherman multi-tools often have a diamond coating on the back side of the coarse file — it works great. Just be patient as it takes a while to grind off.

You Could Add One more Step: When assembling the screen it is necessary to tuck the digitizer cable back into the tablet as it wants to fold toward the outer edge and prevent the digitizer glass assembly from laying flat against the framework. You can do that with a Spudger by pushing the cabole back into the tablet as you close or seat the glass digitizer.

At which step during reassembly to remove blue protective film on the adhesive is never mentioned. I did it too early and thought of preserving it with cling film which does not peel off afterwards. Don't do this. I suggest removing this stuff just before turning “the page” back on.

Where can you buy the magnets? (not from ifixit)

There is no mention anywhere about ingress of dust between the cover glass and the LCD…is this a nonissue??