Einleitung

Follow this guide to replace the rear camera on your iPad Pro 11" 3rd-gen.

This guide is written with an A2301 (cellular + mmWave) model iPad Pro. If you're fixing a Wi-Fi model, you can still use this guide—there will be some visual discrepancies, and you'll need to skip the steps related to the cellular antennas.

Some photos in this guide show the screen disconnected and fully removed. This isn't necessary for the procedure, so this guide skips those steps. If you wish to remove the screen, follow this guide.

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    • Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.

    • Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

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    • While your iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under portions of the screen. To avoid damage, follow instructions exactly as written and note the following areas as you open your iPad:

    • Camera module and ambient light sensors

    • Display cables

    • Screen magnets

    • LCD edges

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    • Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.

    • You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the screen and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

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    • The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

    • Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.

    • Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.

    • Position the suction cups near the right edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.

    • If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

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    • Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.

    • Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.

    • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

    • Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

    • Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

    • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.

    • Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

    • Skip the next step.

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    • If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    • Apply a suction handle to the right edge of the screen, about 5 cm from the bottom edge.

    • Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap just small enough to insert an opening pick.

    • Only create a gap small enough to insert an opening pick. Overbending the screen will damage it.

    • Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

    • Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm or you may damage the LCD.

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    • Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.

    • Slide the pick along the right edge to separate the adhesive.

    • When sliding near the volume buttons, don't insert the pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the screen magnets.

    • Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

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    • Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

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    • The top edge of the iPad contains the camera module and two ambient light sensors. These components are fragile and easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far. Only separate the adhesive in the marked locations to avoid damage.

    • The two ambient light sensors can be hard to see and can be located using a flashlight or by placing the iPad under a bright light.

    • Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm near the top left and right edges or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.

    • Don't insert an opening pick more than 1 mm near the middle of the top edge or you'll damage the camera module.

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    • Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.

    • Slide the pick along the top right edge, stopping when you reach the right ambient light sensor.

    • Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm.

    • Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

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    • Insert a new opening pick to the right of the ambient light sensor.

    • Slide the pick along the middle section of the top edge, stopping when you reach the left ambient light sensor.

    • Don't insert the pick more than 1 mm or you'll damage the camera module.

    • Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

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    • Insert a new opening pick to the left of the ambient light sensor.

    • Slide the pick along the top left edge, stopping when you reach the left ambient light sensor.

    • Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm.

    • Once the top edge adhesive has been separated, you can remove the two picks near the ambient light sensors.

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    • Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

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    • Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner below the existing pick.

    • Don't insert the opening pick more than 2 mm when sliding on the right edge.

    • Slide the pick around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.

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    • Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge, stopping at the USB-C port.

    • Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm when separating the bottom edge adhesive.

    • Leave the pick in to prevent the bottom edge adhesive from re-sealing.

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    • Insert a new opening pick to the left of the USB-C port.

    • Separate the remaining bottom edge adhesive.

    • Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm when slicing the bottom edge adhesive.

    • Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the bottom edge adhesive from re-sealing.

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    • Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.

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    • The left edge of the iPad contains several display cables. These cables are extremely fragile and easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far or at the wrong angle. Follow the instructions exactly as written to avoid damage.

    • The display cables are located within small indents of the frame and require an opening pick to be inserted at a 45° angle.

    • There are flat sections of the frame which require an opening pick to be inserted horizontally.

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    • Insert an opening pick at a 45˚ angle just above the bottom left corner.

    • Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display cables.

    • Carefully slide the pick along the left edge, stopping when you reach the flat section of the frame.

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    • Lower the opening pick so it is horizontal to the screen.

    • Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.

    • Continue separating the left edge adhesive until you reach the next indented section of the frame.

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    • Separate the remaining adhesive, making sure to follow the instructions exactly as written.

    • Slide the pick at a 45˚ downward angle and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.

    • Slide the pick horizontally and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.

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    • At this point, you've separated most of the screen adhesive. Lift the edges of the screen up slightly to check if there is any remaining adhesive.

    • Use an opening pick to remove any remaining adhesive keeping the screen stuck to the frame.

    • Grab the top right and bottom left corners of the screen.

    • Slowly slide the screen towards the bottom right corner to separate it from the frame.

    • Don't fully remove the screen as it is held in place by several ribbon cables underneath.

    • Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ambient light sensor ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.

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    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the ambient light sensor cable bracket to the logic board:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.0 mm screw

    • During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the ambient light sensor cable by lifting straight up on the press connectors.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

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    • Don't try to remove the screen yet, as it's still attached by delicate ribbon cables.

    • Grip the right edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.

    • Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.

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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 1.2 mm screws securing the lower cable shield to the logic board.

    • Two 2.0 mm screws

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

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    • Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the lower cable shield.

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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

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    • These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.

    • Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

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    • Cut two 6 mm wide strips from a playing card or cardstock to use as a battery blocker.

    • The strips should be about 4 cm long so you can easily grip them.

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    • Insert the card strips on each side of the battery connector until they stop.

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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm screws securing the top cable shield.

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    • Apply a heated iOpener to the top cable shield for one minute to soften the adhesive securing it to the logic board.

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    • Insert an opening pick under the top cable shield and gently pry up to separate the adhesive.

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    • Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the top cable shield.

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    • To disconnect antenna cables like this, use tweezers to grip the connector near the cable and lift it up.

    • Use tweezers to disconnect the two antenna cables.

    • Be careful using tweezers or other pointy metal tools near the battery—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

    • To reinstall, hold the connector in place and gently press straight down. The connector will “snap” into its socket much like the metal snaps on a jacket.

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    • The antenna cables are secured to the logic board with weak adhesive.

    • Slide an opening pick under the antenna cables to separate them from the logic board.

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    • Use an opening pick to separate the thin foam covering the antenna cables.

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    • The antenna cables are secured to the mmWave interconnect cable with weak adhesive.

    • Slide an opening pick between the antenna cables and the mmWave interconnect cable to separate them.

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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.2 mm screw securing the press connector bracket to the logic board.

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    • Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the antenna cable bracket.

    • Be careful using tweezers or other pointy metal tools near the battery—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the mmWave flex cable.

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    • Slide an opening pick under the mmWave flex cable to separate it from the logic board.

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    • Some of these screws are the same length but have different thread sizes. Don't mix up the screws or you'll damage the threads in the frame.

    • Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the six screws securing the rear camera shield to the frame:

    • Two 2.8 mm screws

    • One 1.9 mm screw

    • One 1.9 mm screw

    • One 1.2 mm screw

    • One 1.2 mm screw

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    • Use tweezers or your fingers to lift the right side of the camera shield up.

    • Slide the shield out horizontally.

    • During reassembly, lower the left side of the shield back into place and make sure the small protruding tab is slotted in, then hinge the shield closed.

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    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the wide angle camera cable.

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    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the power button and LED cable.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the LiDAR sensor cable.

    • Fold the LiDAR sensor cable away from the frame to access the press connectors underneath.

    • Only fold the cable enough to access the connector underneath.

  50. WPIVn3OZUF2Jqo2t
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    • Use the pointed edge of a spudger to disconnect the ultra wide camera cable.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry up and loosen the rear camera module.

    • Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the rear camera module.

Abschluss

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 11" 3rd Gen Answers community for help.

Chayton Ritter

Mitglied seit: 21/08/20

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