iPad Pro 11" Logic Board Replacement

Geschrieben von: Chayton Ritter

Kommentare: 1

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Difficult

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

2 - 4 Stunden

Einleitung

Follow this guide to replace the logic board in your iPad Pro 11" 1st Gen.

The logic board in your iPad Pro is paired to the Face ID hardware. Replacing it will disable Face ID.

This guide is written with an A2013 (Wi-Fi + Cellular) and an A2301 (Wi-Fi + Cellular + mmWave) iPad Pro. If you're fixing a Wi-Fi model, you can still use this guide—there will be some visual discrepancies, and you'll need to skip the steps related to the cellular antennas.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

iPad Pro 11" Adhesive Strips

Schritt 1

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Schritt 2

While your iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under portions of the screen. To avoid damage, follow instructions exactly as written and note the following areas as you open your iPad:
Camera module and ambient light sensors
Display cables
Screen magnets
LCD edges

Schritt 3

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the screen and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

Schritt 4

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.
Position the suction cups near the right edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Schritt 5

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Schritt 6

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Apply a suction handle to the right edge of the screen, about 5 cm from the bottom edge.
Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap large enough to insert an opening pick.
Only create a gap small enough to insert an opening pick. Overbending the screen will damage it.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the LCD.

Schritt 7

Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
Slide the pick along the right edge to separate the adhesive.
When sliding near the volume buttons, don't insert the pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the screen magnets.
Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Schritt 8

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

Schritt 9

The top edge of the iPad contains the camera module and two ambient light sensors. These components are fragile and easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far. Only separate the adhesive in the marked locations to avoid damage.
The two ambient light sensors can be hard to see and can be located using a flashlight or by placing the iPad under a bright light.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm near the top left and right edges or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 1 mm near the middle of the top edge or you'll damage the camera module.

Schritt 10

Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
Slide the pick along the top right edge, stopping when you reach the right ambient light sensor.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm.
Leave the pick to the right of the sensor to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Schritt 11

Insert a new opening pick to the right of the ambient light sensor.
Slide the pick along the middle section of the top, stopping when you reach the left ambient light sensor.
Don't insert the pick more than 1 mm or you'll damage the camera module.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Schritt 12

Insert a new opening pick to the left of the ambient light sensor.
Slide the pick along the top left edge, stopping when you reach the left ambient light sensor.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm.
Once the top edge adhesive has been separated, you can remove the two picks near the ambient light sensors.

Schritt 13

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Schritt 14

Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner below the existing pick.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 2 mm when sliding on the right edge.
Slide the pick around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.

Schritt 15

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge, stopping at the USB-C port.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm when separating the bottom edge adhesive.
Leave the pick in to prevent the bottom edge adhesive from re-sealing.

Schritt 16

Insert a new opening pick to the left of the USB-C port.
Separate the remaining bottom edge adhesive.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm when separating the bottom edge adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the bottom edge adhesive from re-sealing.

Schritt 17

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.

Schritt 18

The left edge of the iPad contains several display cables. These cables are extremely fragile and easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far or at the wrong angle. Follow the instructions exactly as written to avoid damage.
The display cables are located within small indents of the frame and require an opening pick to be inserted at a 45° angle.
There are flat sections of the frame which require an opening pick to be inserted horizontally.

Schritt 19

Insert an opening pick at a 45˚ angle just above the bottom left corner.
Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display cables.
Carefully slide the pick along the left edge, stopping when you reach the flat section of the frame.

Schritt 20

Lower the opening pick so it is horizontal to the screen.
Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.
Continue separating the left edge adhesive until you reach the next indented section of the frame.

Schritt 21

Separate the remaining adhesive, making sure to follow the instructions exactly as written.
Slide the pick at a 45˚ downward angle and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.
Slide the pick horizontally and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.

Schritt 22

Grab two opposing corners of the screen and gently separate the rest of the adhesive.
Don't fully remove the screen as it is held in place by several ribbon cables underneath.
Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ambient light sensor ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.

Schritt 23

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the ambient light sensor cable bracket to the logic board:
One 1.3 mm screw
One 2.0 mm screw
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Schritt 24

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket.

Schritt 25

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the ambient light sensor cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Schritt 26

Don't try to remove the screen yet, as it's still attached by delicate ribbon cables.
Grip the right edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.

Schritt 27

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm screws securing the bottom cable shield to the logic board.

Schritt 28

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the bottom cable shield.

Schritt 29

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

Schritt 30

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Schritt 31

Cut two 6 mm wide strips from a playing card or cardstock to use as a battery blocker.
The strips should be about 4 cm long so you can easily grip them.

Schritt 32

Insert the card strips on each side of the battery connector until they stop.

I would like to add a bit of advice when it comes to isolating the battery from the board. As a repair tech, I recommend you insert a guitar pick next to the battery connector, rather than wedging something directly in between the battery and the connector, as you run the risk of damaging the connector. I see this happen fairly often amongst new techs and DIY-ers. If the battery connector does get damaged, it may result in the device not showing proper battery percentage (as in its a 1% all of the time) or the device may not power back on. If it does get damaged, it is completely fixable. But that should be carried out by a someone skilled in micro soldering.

Jesse Hooton -

Schritt 33

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the top two display cables.

Schritt 34

Disconnect the two remaining display cables.

Schritt 35

Grip the right edge of the screen and lift it away.
During reassembly, before installing a display, remove any remaining adhesive from the frame, and clean the glued areas with high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.
If you plan to reinstall your existing screen, remove any remaining adhesive from the back and clean the adhered areas with isopropyl alcohol.
Follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive strips on your iPad before sealing it up.

Schritt 36

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable.

Schritt 37

The USB-C port cable is secured to the logic board with weak adhesive.
Slide an opening pick between the cable and the logic board to separate the adhesive.

Schritt 38

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the USB-C port to the frame.

Schritt 39

Use tweezers to remove the two grounding contacts from each side of the USB-C port.

Schritt 40

Lift the USB-C port out of its slot in the frame.

Schritt 41

Use a Phillips PH00 screwdriver to remove the eight screws securing the shield to the logic board:
Five 2 mm screws
Three 1.2 mm screws

Schritt 42

Apply a heated iOpener to the top of the logic board for two minutes.

Schritt 43

Insert an opening pick between the shield and the shielding gasket on the bottom edge of the logic board.
Slide the pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.

Schritt 44

Repeat the previous step for the right edge of the logic board shield.

Schritt 45

Repeat the previous step for the left edge of the logic board shield.

Schritt 46

Grip the logic board shield at the top and lift it up.
Stop lifting if the shield is stuck or begins to bend—a bent shield will reduce thermal transfer from the logic board. Use an opening pick to separate any remaining adhesive.

Schritt 47

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the IR dot projector cable.

Schritt 48

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and Face ID camera.

Schritt 49

The IR camera cable is secured to the logic board with weak adhesive.
Slide an opening pick between the IR camera cable and the logic board to separate it.

Schritt 50

Repeat the previous step for the camera cable.

Schritt 51

Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the front camera assembly to the frame.

Schritt 52

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and loosen the front camera assembly.

Schritt 53

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the front camera assembly.

Schritt 54

You're about to disconnect many connectors from the top and bottom of the logic board. During reassembly, use these photos as a reference to ensure all cables are connected in the correct locations.

Schritt 55

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera interconnect cable.
Fold the interconnect cable over so the top right speaker cable is accessible.

Schritt 56

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the top microphone cable.

Schritt 57

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the two cables for the top right speaker.
Avoid prying against the short sides of the connector. The socket on the logic board is delicate and may break off if pried against.

Schritt 58

Repeat the previous step for the two top left speaker cables.

Schritt 59

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the top interconnect board.
Don't bend or reposition the interconnect board, as it will break if stressed.

Schritt 60

To disconnect antenna cables like this, use tweezers to grip the connector near the cable and lift it up.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the top Wi-Fi antenna cable.
To reinstall, hold the connectors in place and gently press them straight down. The connectors “snap” into their sockets much like the metal snaps on a jacket.

Schritt 61

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Smart Connector and SIM card reader cables.
For the Wi-Fi only model there is no SIM card reader cable.

Schritt 62

Follow the procedure in step 57 to disconnect the bottom right speaker.

Schritt 63

Use tweezers to peel back the tape securing the bottom left speaker cable bracket to the logic board.
Slide the bracket out horizontally.

Schritt 64

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the bottom left LTE wireless cable.

Schritt 65

Follow the procedure in step 57 to disconnect the bottom right speaker.

Schritt 66

Follow the procedure in 59 to disconnect the bottom interconnect cable.

Schritt 67

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the bottom Wi-Fi antenna cable.
Peel the cable away from the logic board and reposition it to the right.

Schritt 68

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the left microphone and Apple Pencil charger cables.

Schritt 69

The adhesive that secures the logic board to the frame is very strong. To remove the board, follow the next steps to weaken the adhesive using high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol.
Prop the left side of the iPad up against an object so the isopropyl alcohol can flow under the logic board.
Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol along the left edge of the logic board.
Be careful if you're using a syringe with a needle or other sharp instrument to dispense isopropyl alcohol—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
Let the alcohol soak for one minute to soften the adhesive under the logic board.

Schritt 70

Rotate your iPad 180˚ and lay it down with the right side elevated.
Repeat the previous step for the right edge of the logic board.

Schritt 71

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the logic board and the bottom right speaker.
Slowly pry up the bottom of the logic board.
If it is difficult to pry up the logic board, apply additional isopropyl alcohol and wait one minute.
Replace the playing card strips with an opening pick to block the battery.

Schritt 72

Slide an opening pick under the left edge of the logic board to loosen it.
Pry against the frame underneath the logic board to separate the adhesive.
Don't forcefully lever against the battery—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
If the adhesive is still too strong to lift up the logic board, apply some additional isopropyl alcohol and wait one minute.

Schritt 73

Insert an opening pick under the right edge of the logic board above the left microphone and Apple Pencil charger cables.
Repeat the previous step for the right side of the logic board.

Schritt 74

Grip the top and bottom edges of the logic board.
Remove the logic board.
Remove the old adhesive from the rear case and bottom of the logic board using tweezers and high concentration isopropyl alcohol with a lint-free cloth where needed.
During reassembly, apply strips of Tesa tape to the bottom of the logic board.

Abschluss

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 11" 1st Gen answers community for help.

Tinte & Feder

Chayton Ritter

Mitglied seit: 21/08/20

12163 Reputation

iPad Pro 11" Logic Board Replacement

Einleitung

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

0 Kommentare