iPhone 6 Kabel des Lautstärkereglers

I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

“We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

These screws are tiny, and the first two are the biggest of the lot. Get a magnifying glass or good reader glasses.

I have to use the P2 right?

The best advice I can give is not to perform this operation over carpet.

I'm an amateur, but I was able to replace the parts almost perfectly while looking at this explanation, thank you very much.

was fairly easy more nerves than anything, one thing one should have on hand is alcohol just in case its needed. also if one doesn’t get the entire tape strips out, use the alcohol like suggested and lift the battery up. Then can grab the remaining tape strips with tweezers and pull it out. Easy to put back together just make sure the connectors are in. The screws are tiny so take your time. I plugged it in and it started charging and it worked. Great to have my 6 back for a trip as I wanted to use it for the camera, also my game phone so nice to have a battery that lasts. Yes having a flat place to put the parts and put them in separate area so they don’t get mixed up. It took about a hour with hunting for a spare bottle of alcohol.

The first step should always to be to backup your phone as there is always a slim chance that even a simple battery replacement may render the phone inoperable and data on it lost.

You dont need to remove sim card while battery replacement

Did mine today, with iFixit battery and iFixit tool kit. Did not need suction cup, to open case, as it had partially sprung open on left, as a result of a badly swollen battery. Supported base and screen with a bookend and rubber bands. This kept these parts at a 90 degree angle, so that screen did not need to be removed. IFixit screwdriver tips were perfect fit. Somewhat difficult to remove battery adhesive strips, but slow and steady got it done, after mild heating with hair dryer. Took about 3 minutes to reposition battery connector…just a wee bit tricky, to position correctly. Was careful to place top of screen in place first, and remainder snapped into place with light pressure, and replaced the 2 pentalobe screws.

Will highly recommend iFixit for such a repair. Repair kit and battery, are first rate. I give this an 11, out of 10.?

Definitely easier to remove the adhesive after using the iOpener to warm up the phone!

My phone did not have the tabs or peel off adhesive. I had the pry, yes pry, the battery out of the phone while heating it. The battery was glued in place and came out shaped like a banana. I’m just glad it did not puncture during the process. On the plus side, I didn’t need to install the new adhesive pad, as it looked like that is what was in there, and they were still sticky. As I think back, this phone was replaced by Verizon under warranty, and they gave me a refurbished phone. I bet it already had a repair battery in it…

CAUTION! As I already had the tools I bought only the battery, not the kit. It was not evident that new adhesive strips are needed. Having only replaced a 4s battery before, even reading this Guide did not alert me that new strips were needed.

I too was able to skip steps 13-19, by securing the display at a 90 degree angle. I used a soup can with a microfiber cloth between the screen and the can. I secured it with a rubber band and worked very carefully. I do recommend heating the back of the phone as it made the adhesive come up with relative ease. You just have to be slow and apply constant pulling pressure, but lightly. I was able to remove the strips without removing the vibrator. I was going to remove the vibrator but the screws were unwilling to come out, so I just proceeded to removing the strips and had no issues. I expected this to be much more of a project than it was but had no problems or issues and it was a breeze. Now just waiting to see if the battery is good, but so far everything is fine. Phone came back on and everything is as it was before. No glitches or issues there either.

If you have patience and can be gentle and follow the instructions, you should be able to skip several steps.

Dear God, I really made a mess of this part, probably the most difficult with the possible exception of putting the data interface plugs back in. But I kept going on a hope and a prayer, having finally to resort to the hairdryer trick in the end and somehow managed to get the blighter out. Not very pro. But everything is now back in place and the iPhone kicked in first time and away she goes. Yeah look at the video a couple of times before starting this…

Unless the video comes with a “magic” Time Travel Component that allows the bogus adhesive strips to be better designed so they had any chance a all of releasing in a reasonable manner, I’ll pass. After the stripes snapped off, again (this is my second 6 battery replacement), leaving the battery 90% adhered to the iPhone, the only thing that got me out of the pickle was plenty of heat (my Thermalon Dry Eye Moist Heat Compress, microwaved 10 times) on the underside of the iPhone. That, and insanely CAREFUL prying with two of the FLAT versions of the four long-handles tools sold as a kit by iFixit, so as to not puncture the battery and create the loathsome flaming mess.

If you replace the iphone 6 battery with out using heat gun, will it spoil the battery?

Heat helps. Got lucky pulling both out full length from the bottom. A few minutes with a hair dryer prepped the aluminum case to surrender the stretchy sticky tabs. Be sure to click the tape install link so that you apply the new double sticks correctly. I also 'dry fitted' the battery first to see where the connector lined up. With the battery all the way at the top of the opening, the connector took a bit of effort to align. With strips attached, I allowed some space and the connector fell into place.

I didn't secure the battery with anything and after completing the installation, my battery bounces around inside the phone. Personally, I don't see any problems with this and if anything, it gives my iphone 6 a haptic touch type feel :) I'll let you know if it explodes.

Be careful when placing the new battery. The compartment is a little bigger than the battery, but the cable to the connector is pretty stiff. I had to do some serious adjusting of the cable to get the connector to align. I suggest connecting the connector before laying down the battery.

I was able to pull the right strip completely out just from the bottom of the battery. Pull straight out with a low angle (just slightly above the black chip so it doesn't get caught or break) and the adhesive will pull right out. There's no need to go around the sides of the battery unless the adhesive is dry and not flexible. If the adhesive is very flexible, you'll be able to pull it out very easily as long as you take your time and are careful. It also helped that I started with 100% battery and drained down to under 25%, so the iphone was very warm from doing this and that helped make it very easy to pull the adhesive out. I did not need a warming kit, I just used the heat from using the iphone to drain the battery before shutting it down for the repair!

I managed to pull the strips out without using any heat. I pulled maybe 25 degrees from the vertical, carefully avoiding the metallic parts around. However, after starting to pull with an even pressure, and seeing that the strip was stretching without coming out, I found that it helped if I gave small, repeated tugs, rather delicate but abrupt. This way I could actually hear the strip pulling out from under the battery, with a rubbery vibrating sound. It must have taken maybe 100 small tugs for each strips but they came out easily. Also, as the extracted part got too long, I held it with the other hand and grabbed it again further down the exposed portion, to always have a shorter section to pull on.

Pulling straight down towards the bottom of the phone at a small angle worked well for me. I highly recommend taking your time to prevent breakage. I think I spent over 8 minutes on each strip just slowly stretching it out so it would not break. Just keep it straight and dont twist. I was able to remove both strips intact and thus did not need to pry the battery. Because I was able to do this method, I left the screen attached and saved a few steps (I was not trying to save time, just did not want to create additional problems by removing and reconnecting various ribbons). I think slow and steady will be your best friend. I did not heat up the adhesive or case.

One of the trickier parts, mine tore as soon as I tried on both.

I would definitely recommend heating the back of the phone with a heating pad for 15 minutes prior to this step. The first time I tried pulling the first strip, it broke off almost instantly. I then heated the back of the phone with a heating pad for 15 minutes and was able to remove the 2nd strip as described in the instructions above. I was then able to retrieve the 1st strip using a pair of tweezers and remove it as described above.

The first white strip ripped right off before any of it pulled loose. I was extra careful with the second one and got 2/3 of it off before it broke. Heating the back side of the phone probably would have helped. I didn’t think there was any hope of getting the battery out until I read the comments here. Here is what I did, I took an iron and used it to heat up a 5 lb metal weight so it would stay warm for a while. I put the phone on the heated weight to keep it warm. I took dental floss and worked it under the battery to try and work the white strip loose. At the same time I used a plastic credit card/door key to work the battery up from the side. I eventually worked the plastic card under the back edge and worked my way deeper in until I was able to get it loose. When I got it loose it looked like the white strip was wadded up underneath the battery. I don’t think I had a chance of getting the strips up by just pulling.

Both my strips broke at about 5-10 cm of pulling. Heart sank. I repeated the following: heat from hair dyer for about 1 min until the case was hot to touch, IKEA card edge to pry the battery along its length, reheating when the case cooled. Moved onto a stiffer/ thicker credit card type item once I could get it under the battery. Took me about 20-25 mins but with new confidence it could easily be done in 10 minute; I erred on caution since first time. I just used two 3 mm wide strip of double sided tape to secure the battery. Once i removed the film I heated up the case once again the soften the new adhesive before placing the battery. Working fine.

Just broke the two strips of double sided tape. Look at the pictures well here. Pull the strips out a long way (i.e. the length of the battery or more) before you try to move them around the sides of the battery. One they are pulled out that far, becareful as you try to manurer them around the batter as they are now fragile and can break / tear easily. I was able to use a very thin flexible but strong ID card to wedge under the battery and with some effort (careful effort) I was able to pry the tape from under the battery. Half of the tape was still too strong and the battery came out with half of the battery casing left on the bottom case of the phone. Very strong tape the original tape

2 - iPhone 6 devices to replace batteries on. First was a total MESS! Strips broke - immediately! After much gentle prying, plastic cards, blue picks and dental floss, I got the bloody thing out! Second iPhone, I came at it differently. Used my iOpener (heater) to warm the whole phone for about 40 minutes. Peeled up the black “top edge” of the first strip, and it was then I noticed the top side white adhesive is NOT connected to the bottom side. Only the black film makes the connection on the factory battery. I was very gentle with that tab - until I saw the white strip start to appear from under the battery. I then became MUCH more deliberate with my pulling. No going back in (sticky stuff gets stuck on the battery edge) just smooth, steady pulling of the (warm) strip. As about an inch was exposed, I replaced my pulling fingers back near the edge of the battery without allowing any slack. More and more adhesive came out, and each time I repositioned my grasp. Finally - snap, and the strip was gone!

The iFixit youtube video (www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtK7b_pqnCU) shows a method of pulling the adhesive around the bottom, side, and top of the battery. I did this for the first adhesive. The one caution with that approach is that, as you’re pulling the adhesive, it could get caught on surrounding components and that could cause a break if you’re not careful. For the second adhesive I pulled it only in the direction away from the bottom of the phone (as shown in Step 21) and that was MUCH simpler. As you’re pulling the adhesive, even if a slight tear occurs in the process, keep at it with a slow and steady motion to remove as much as you can. Thankfully the adhesive strips came off completely in my repair.

That was fun!! I removed the volume side adhesive strip first. It broke immediately, but I was able to get it started again with the tweezers. It came right out. The inside strip was another story. It also broke immediately and I couldn’t get it started again with tweezers or anything. Since the volume side strip was out I used the black spudger tool to slowly start wedging the battery up and then I used a gift card to work the battery the rest of the way out. The gift card was not as thick as a credit card but was stiff enough to work the adhesive without bending the battery too much.

I think I had the extra-sticky and seriously old tape on my phone. The tape disintegrated at this part for me. Very frustrating. Use a double strand of dental floss and if need be, that black plastic scraper. Be patient and keep working on it. Set it down for a few if you’re ready to chuck the phone across the room and come back when you’ve settled down. Crying is optional.

Actually the stripes come off very easily. All u need is a little Patience. Keep´em low around the edges when you pull. What helped a lot was grapping them very thight and close to the battery.

The most important part is to stay Patient. Changing the battery and the Display took me about 2 hours including cleaning up in the inside. Thanks a lot for the manual  guys !

Removing the vibrator and heating the phone before removing the old adhesive strips was the ticket! The extra room was good and the strips pulled right out after heating. I just used my wife’s hair dryer.

I didn’t see the part about removing the vibrator till after snapping the ends off the adhesive strips. I don’t think I snagged the strips on it, but extra room to work is a good idea. The strips didn’t stretch hardly at all before the ends snapped off. The tweezers that come with your repair kit are pointy, while in the video, they are blunt with rounded corners. I think the points punctured the strips and caused them to rip. I had to heat it over a light bulb and use the long black spudger to pry it loose. I ended up bending and puncturing the battery, but no harm was done. I recommend, lots of heat to soften adhesive, remove the vibrator and use blunt/rounded tweezers.

I been doing electronics for forty years now the battery strip adhesive if possible must be applied correctly as it aiding heat transfer from the battery through back casing being like a heatsink it’s white in colour similar to heat transfer compounds in normal use the phone will have moments when it gets a little warm this adhesive strip for battery must be the correct strip for the battery using double sided sticky tape does not do the same thing as the correct battery strip

At the end of the day this repair will ALWAYS be about pulling the white stretchy adhesive tape out from under the battery to release it without damage to the strips or the battery. I have not always been successful in this exercise. But this time, as recommended, I removed the “vibration” block and used a number of short pieces of painter’s tape to created a series of better pulling “devices.” After getting a slow-but-reasonable start, once several inches emerged I used the 3/4” wide x 2+” long pieces of tape, carefully applied to both sides of the two strips, to “combine” them and form a unified “grab point.” Removing the “vibration” block allowed me to reduce my pull angle to an wonderfully shallow degree. I was then able to slowly-but-surely pull out both adhesive strips. Moving those strips in tandem allowed me to successfully release of the battery from the iPhone.

Removing the sticky strips: Take the head off a matchstick. Lift up the end of one sticky strip as per instructions. Hold the matchstick so that it’s parallel with the bottom edge of the battery and wrap the end of the sticky strip around the matchstick. Pull the matchstick+tape up/back a bit. Roll the matchstick to wrap more tape around it and pull up/back on the strip using your middle fingertip. Wrap, pull, wrap, pull, repeat until the end of the tape comes through.

Use a new matchstick for the second sticky strip.

It’s like how bakers roll a Swiss roll, in reverse.

The white "Command" type adhesive band broke, but was able to reach it with tweezers in the First Aid kit. Winding the adhesive around the tweezers with gentle tension allowed me to pull it all out and then the battery was "free".

The 2nd one did break loose on me, but I was able to pick it up with the sweet tweezers provided with the Repair Tools kit. It took a few tries, but I was able to snag an edge and pull the strip back successfully.

Heat the back of the phone before trying to pull the adhesive, makes it much easier.

To heat the back of my phone I opened a console on my laptop and had it run a ridiculous computation, then put my phone underneath.

Before you put in the new battery (with the new adhesive strips on it), be sure to bend the pre-bend the battery connector cable!!!! (In the same pattern as the old battery!!!!) Will save you a big headache when trying to reconnect the battery connector cable.

Pull slowly, do not rush it and it will be fine.

I agree with Jonathan MacIntyre . Heat the back of the phone with a heating pad for 15 minutes prior to do this and the strips come off much easier! I didn’t heat it at first and I almost broke off the first strip. (I was able to recover it later on with the tweezers after heating it with a heating pad.) The strips came out much easier after heating!

Both adhesive tabs broke for me. I ended up starting with the hairdryer then trying floss and then a plastic card which was too flimsy. In the end I used the plastic wedging tool to pry the battery up and hold it there. With the battery raised, on the side closest to the phone edge I was able to scrape the adhesive strip together enough with the tweezers and then my fingers to pull at it laterally stretching it so that it came away in one piece. The battery was slightly dented and bent, but not punctured at this point. The second strip near the logic board was much higher and necessitated bending the battery much more and just holding it there. I couldn't get the battery up enough for fear of a puncture so I just held it there as the adhesive slowly detached itself and in the end the battery just popped free. Not sure if the warming from the hair dryer made any difference.

I used an ID card (without magnetic strip) just like the picture above to wedge the battery up to reach the broken adhesive strip.

This part is where I almost gave up. The strips broke, I tried to pry it out, then I heated the back with a hair dryer. I used an ID card and got under it and shimmied left and right until the battery was able to break look from the strips. Afterwards the battery was bent which concerned me it could just break. At this point I realized, yes, Apple does not want you to get in their phones. After it came out all went well and was glad to have finished this.

For me the strips broke and I had to use credit card to detach the battery. This is quite tricky thing.

Cool trick, used hair dryer and gentle persuasions.

Be careful if you have failed to pull out the adhesive near logic board. Since the cable responsible for power button and mic near the back cam lays above apple’s logo plate, when you pull out the battery with logo plate sticked with it, you may damage the cable. Mine cable was damaged in this way.

Used the floss technique and damaged the volume control cable. Fortunately complete cable and button assembly is a $9 part on Amazon.

If u read the instructions in advance this is where u consider not doing this. Getting the battery away from the adhesive strips is a bear. The floss idea is a joke.

Battery removal with adhesive stuck under the battery using floss personal record was around 10 minutes.

using fishing line worked well for me. the wire was cutting into the battery pack and dental floss would not work.

I too found that fishing line, specifically 10 lb test Fireline braid fishing line, is an excellent alternative to floss or wire due to its strength and small diameter. I tied washers on each end using a Palomar note to provide a secure grip.

Both adhesive strips broke despite heating. Then the floss broke. Likewise, here is where I almost gave up. Used an old credit card gently, and bent the battery a little bit with constant fear that I would be starting a fire. Some patience, and with a few minutes, it was out.

If you need to use dental floss, use the thin type and double strand it. Have extra on hand in case that breaks.

Hardest part. The adhesive is extremely… adhesive. Dentalt floss didn’t work, credit card bent out of shape. By this time the battery was already bent to the point where I could use the tweezers to pull the white tape sideways from under the battery. Being strong tape, I was able to pull it out along the side of the battery all the way. That was actually easy. Strangely there seemed to be only one strip.

YOU have to remove the VIBRATOR so it does not CUT the strips. Keep grabbing up close after pulling some out. these are over 2 feet long so be gentle..pull low and away, not up ever. Good Luck!

That was hard to remove but I did it. Be careful about the lower frame edges, it’s so sharp, it cut my finger.

Ich habe gleich den Weg gewählt, den Akku zu erwärmen (mit dem Föhn von unten) und dann denn Akku vorsichtig mit einem Kunststoffspachtel rausgehebelt! (Das riskante entfernen der Stecker für Display und Touch habe ich nicht gemacht...ging auch so gut!)

Got it working turned it off now it doesn't want to turn on!!

You should add a comment about the best way (environmentally) to dispose of this battery.

Pre-bend the new battery connector cable! If doing this again I would make sure I had pre-bent the connector cable the same way as the original battery is bent. I did not and then once the new battery was glued down I could not get at it well to bend it properly. I had to wedge the extra cable in a bit and then the very small extra thickness left a small color distortion on the screen due to the additional pressure on the back of the display.

Es posible que al instalar una batería no original falle a continuación él detector de huella en un iPhone 6 ?

Yeah, the glue tab part is where this is not realistic to do yourself… mine tore off and now the battery is stuck in there, with no way to get it out and now voided. Your special tools are a joke.

Assuming I get through this procedure, are we supposed to cycle the battery a certain way?

I agree with the comment about pre-bending the cable first. I didn’t look close enough at the original battery and it looked like the replacement battery had a completely different cable. Then I realized that the cable turned up 180 degrees and then bent over 90 degrees.

I’m amazed my phone works after all this. I must have done just about everything wrong. Good luck to everyone attempting this. My next phone will be an Android, just not yet now that I’ve successfully replaced the battery.

Warming the back of the phone was the only way I could remove the adhesive strips. If cold, the adhesive strips do not release and break easily. Once warmed up, the improvement in ease of removal was amazing. I think this should be the starting point unless you live in a really hot place

The battery replacement went off without a hitch, but now I have no speaker sound. I still have earpiece and headphones sound, but no speaker. I’m trouble shooting now, but does anyone have any ideas? I’ve cleaned my headphones jack, checked my ringer is on etc. etc. Doing the most recent software update now ( hadn’t done it yet), but could just replacing the battery cause my speaker to be damaged? I didn’t even touch anything near where the speaker is housed. ???

Replacing iphone6 battery with out using heat gun, will it spoil the battery? Thank’s

Great kit! Simple to follow instructions made an intimidating task a breeze to accomplish. I highly recommend this kit to any owner of an iPhone to replace their own battery. An added bonus is the tools you have after the job for future use. They’re handy for glasses and other items with miniature screws besides phones. Overall an easy task with everything needed to complete the job in a professional manner. AAA+++

A few weeks I brought my 6S to Best Buy and let them replace it for $49. They are a certified Apple repair agent. Not worth my time or risk of breaking the phone. Just my preference and opinion.

I found it beyond helpful to have the old battery and its connector to compare it to the way the replacement arrived. This told me approximately what the exact shape the replacement cable ought be configured/pre-bent into to successfully reconnect it to where it must go in the iPhone.

Just be warned that the Battery I received was absolutely dead flat- no residual charge at all.

Just to check that I hadn’t messed up any connections I dismantled it again.

In desperation I put it on charge and it worked!!!!

The iPhone 6 that I replaced the battery in did not have the dual adhesive strips at the end of the battery but rather a single narrow adhesive strip under the center of the battery. I had to heat up the back case and then pry the battery out by wedging a spudger tool under to work it lose.

Please fix this post! The info about mute is very important.

The comments were very helpful in understanding how to remove the bracket from the mute button and then re-fix it using the soldering iron to melt the three plastic posts. However it was not clear for me from the comments how to remove the small metal plate that is that glued to the volume switches. And also what is the right procedure to refix this plate to the new cable. Since my problem is only that the up volume button is not working I decided to reassemble the phone waiting this guy to be a little bit more clear about this two topics.

Does anyone know how to correctly attach the metal part with the colour to a new switch?

The complete cable, buttons and bracket assembly is available on Amazon for $9 as of January 13, 2018.