iPhone 6s Akku tauschen

This is very useful

https://www.jerryrigeverything.com/wp-co...

you should post a question on the answers forum

I can’t the screws with the P2, seems that the screws are stuck, what can i do?

My display is cracked/broken and not functioning. The slide bar doesn’t work. How do I shut down my phone?

i have replaced several ipod batteries and laptop work, but these screws seem to loose but do not come out. how am i to remove them.shake the iphone?it seems the ioen is not in my kit, is that how to remove them?

this seems idiotic but i remember some other system magnets that firt make your screws easier to keep, but this might be changed….any video? this seems 1st step blues!!!!

NOW THAT YOU’VE REMOVED 2 SCREWS, and

BEFORE YOU SNEEZE them into oblivion, or under the refrigerator (which is the same in many houses)

MAY I suggest:

1) Obtain:

— a piece of paper, such as normal printer paper (not too much writing on one side)

— a piece of tape, not too sticky, like masking tape (duct tape would be bad)

——— 1-1.5 inches (2.5-4 cm) wide

——— 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) long

— a pencil (or pen)

2) Put the paper on the side of your work area

3) Lay the tape, sticky side up, on the paper

4) Fold each end of the tape (~1 inch/2.5cm) back under itself, so the folded part faces the paper. Press the folded-back tape onto the paper

You now have Sneeze & Wind Insurance for your tiny bits!

5) Put the 2 pentalobes end down on the top end of the tape, next to each other. Push them a little onto the tape so they stick

6) Use your pencil to note on the paper next to the screws: “1. Pentalobes”

Now you may proceed with dissassembly, without worrying about telling the 1.5mm from the 1.6mm screws.

or about sneezing!

The P2 is not getting the screws loose at all. I have tried this several times and no budge on my iPhone 6s.

To avoid to be screwed by lost or mixed screws:

- Use magnetic pad, wipeable

- Write the ifixit- steps next to the screws (maybe even with their sizes) and other bits removed

with a non-permanent marker

- When finished, simply wipe the pad, and it’s ready for the next repair

Hope that helps.

I found a pentalobe 1 driver to work much better.

The suction cup didn’t hold at all. I tried Windex and then hospital grade alcohol, but nothing worked. Finally had to use two exacto knife blades to begin lifting the screen. As soon as I got a little gap, used the spudger tool the rest of the way, The small philips driver didn’t fit the screws exactly, but with a little effort they came out. My battery adhesive strips snapped immediately and I had to remove the original battery the “hard way”. The kit came with replacement display adhesive but no explanation how to use it. I got some on - so better than nothing. Overall I’m happy with the results, and the new battery is charging now.

First step problem? Couldn’t get the screws out. I checked my other iPhone and realized the screws were missing!Just started prying it apart.

I recommend a loop of tape attached to the table, and placing the screws on the tape in the order they were taken out. identifying the screws to put back is a simple matter of going the other way back up the tape.

Did the repair for the second time, each time faster and easier. This steps by step is amazing and crystal clear no mistake possible.

I used a hand towel folded in half and a clothes iron on the cotton setting (med-high heat, no steam). Placing the doubled towel between the phone and the iron, I would set the iron down for about 20 seconds (my iron has a timer that beeps when left horizontal for too long). Lift the iron, check the temperature (aiming for just too hot to touch), reposition as needed, repeat. It took me a while, but that’s because I took my time not knowing how fast this would heat. All-in-all, about 2 minutes to reach the right temperature to loosen the adhesive (it IS tenacious).

Holy. Redii eirhejbrd

I heated a stone pestle in the air fryer, wrapped in a cloth.

I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:

To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).

I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.

Clean the glass screen first with eye glass cleaner wipes (alcohol). Hair dryer on hot with low air speed works excellent. Aim the heat at 45 degrees (phone face up) and move around the perimeter for about 1 minute. The edges should be hot enough to barely touch without burning your figures. This seems to get the glue hot enough at the edges for easy removal. Warm the glass face a bit and also warm the suction cup, this makes the suction a lot better and the suction cup won’t come off like it will if the face and suction cup are cold. Later when removing the battery, heat the bottom with the hair dryer for about 30 seconds and the top of the bottom of the battery where the 2 tabs are for the tape behind the battery. This makes for simple removal of the battery tape under it.

Here’s what I did to open my iPhone (I had it open in under 1 minute): 1) I has one of those rice/barley filled eye masks that you heat up in a microwave. I heated it for 1 min and then placed my phone face down onto it for 1-2 min. 2) I placed the suction cup onto the left lower corner and the “tweezers” into the headphone jack. Pull upwards with the suction cup and hold the phone’s body down in place with the tweezers. 3) a gap will open. Slide the edge of a razor blade into the gap (not too deep) 4) insert the plastic triangular guitar pick tool into the gap next to the razor blade. Slide sideways with the triangular tool to make the gap large enough to insert the spudger. 5) insert the edge of the spudger tool (curve down) into the, now widened, gap. 6) slide the spudger tool along the edges of the iPhone. Opened!

For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

Any info would be appreciated.

https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

The suction cup material was very stiff and wouldn’t adhere well even after thoroughly cleaning the screen. Applying heat from a hair dryer helped with that, too.

A packing tape handle worked well for me instead of the suction cup. I folded a piece of packing tape in half leaving two ends to stick to the part of the screen indicated for the suction cup placement and used the center fold as a handle.

I found that a 3rd hand helped here. Lots of heat and as others say, a strong, steady pull, but you are only creating a gap to get the spludger in, not ripping the screen away from the body. Once I created the teeny gap I had someone else get the spludger in to hold it open while I shifted my grip.

I’ll throw in here for other noobs as someone who just read ALL the comments and had things go pretty well without a hitch.

Adhesive here goes ALL the way around edge. I think think many people’s frustration comes from in adequate heating and/or only heating the inferior edge area. I went with 5 min of a rice/shoulder thingy, (uniform rectangle folded in half on a plate, 3 min in the microwave) Plate side was hot potato hot and stayed so.

Other inference and comment curating:

a. Use pointy spudger end inserted slightly into headphone jack to hold down phone while pulling up;

b. 2mm lift MAX the insert something to hold while you bring the flat end of the spudger around (I just used the flesh of my finger;

c. Twist spudger ONLY zero -20 degrees when inserted;

d. Avoid spudgering above or between the pentab screw holes.

e. Avoid sticking the spudger in more than 2 mm as you slide up the left and right edges. If you catch, back it out a bit until you can keep sliding.

Also all props to Ifixit for addressing many issues with earlier versions of this and their replacement kit! A lot of complaints are clearly obsolete now.

And if this your first time block out an afternoon and be glad if it only takes 20-30 minutes. Rushing causes breakage more often than not.

I’m in a third world country without access to a hairdryer. Is there anyway else to loosen the adhesive?

On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

Goodluck!!

-J

The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

My glass was broken and the suction cup wouldn’t hold on the tape. I used a very thin knife an slowly worked between the glass and the phone frame. Please keep in mind that my phone had been run over by a Ford F150, so I really had nothing to lose.

What is unfortunately unclear is just how to 1. apply sufficient force and keeping the phone secure with only one hand, 2. whether this is best done on a table to use its opposing surface to secure the phone.

The suction cup is a worthless tool because flexes too much to provide a good hold. Mine slipped and popped away three times. -The last time causing a crack in the screen.

Glad I read these comments about the screen cracking because I was really trying to force this thing open (with some heat applied already), but it wasn’t budging. Kept applying heat and light force and eventually it started coming apart. The suggestion for placing the pointed end of the spudger in the headphone jack while prying up worked for me and an extra set of hands would have been ideal.

In the end, with the spudger in the headphone jack, placed a guitar pick in between the screen and the backing and slid it along the bottom left. Left the tip of the guitar pick in to hold the gap and then was able to use the spudger to complete the process as shown.

Beware! I cracked the screen. Used iOpener, iFixit spudger etc. I managed to get the spudger into the gap by the headset socket and worked my way up the left, when I came to do the right the screen was cracked. I was taking it slow and steady but clearly that wasn’t enough. Be VERY careful.

Heat is essential, and take it very slowly. Also take seriously the instruction to open just enough to get the spudger in there—then do the real work with that. The suction is just to get started. I had my son insert the spudger as soon as there was any gap at all, then worked it according to the guide.

I did this on a card table with a vinyl surface so I could lay the phone down. Then I held the metal frame on both sides while pulling the suction cup—my son having the spudger at the ready. Definitely be patient! I had to restart several times when the suction cup popped off and I accidentally reengaged the clips pressing it back on.

I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:

To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).

I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.

I did the hair dryer three or four times and applied all of the pressure i could on the suction cup and it just wouldn’t budge. My phone is old and i had a waterproof case on it for a long time that really pressed down on the glass so it would seal. I think having that on for three or more years really sealed the glass!!!! Didn’t want to break it so will live with my battery as is…..it last most of the day and i am usually around a car charger or home. Just thought i would add a comment that said man i gave it my best shot and opted not to do it. I really liked the kit though and the tool will come in pretty handy to repair other small things.

This was waaaaay the hardest bit for me. Took ages Almost gave up. Allow AT LEAST twenty minutes. Endless patience pulling, then resting for a bit then pulling again. S.T.E.A.D.Y Keep at it long after your inner voice is saying ‘why did you think you could do this. You have never mended anything in your life.’ Then you see the gap and like a steady bomb disposal expert you quietly winkle it apart.

Used heat from a hairdryer, gentle pulling to lift the glass at the position above the headphone jack one to 2 millimetres with the suction cup, then put my thumbnail in the gap and pulled up gently a bit more to fit the spudger, and mainly slid the spudger as indicated around the glass, bottom first, and then sides to within about a centimetre of the top at most, to release the display. I found very little prying is needed. Once a gap of about a millimetre or 2 is created, that is enough to release the display from the adhesive.

Run a little isopropanol along the seam at the bottom end (I had no syringe, so I dipped the handle end of a spoon in and ran that along). Leave a couple of minutes, then warm with a hair drier. It will pop right off with the suction cup.

It was so much easier after I removed the two screws from step one… LOL! With heat, the screen should come up quite easily. You definitely don’t want to pull too hard. I introduced a small illumination artifact into the screen where the suction cup was attached. I’m not sure whether this was due to the suction cup or excessive heat. I was using a heat gun and trying to warm the screen evenly so it wouldn’t crack. But the temp might have been too high. Next time I’ll just heat the metal around the edges.

don’t forget the screws like my stupid self did!!!

After 45 minutes of using a hair dryer the entire time while suction cupping it some 50 times (kept popping off), I finally was able to create the gap needed to remove the display. I found steady pulling of the suction cup was useless. I had to quickly pull,release,pull,release,repeat and this nudged the tape apart, which had the constancy of dried superglue. Not easy, but this phone was 7 years old,....

Got this done in about 2 minutes!! I used a space with that had a fan function. Held up my phone to it for a few minutes, also heated up the suction cup. I didn't have extra help, so the whole "pull suction cup with left hand, hold down phone by headphone jack with right hand, and insert pick with ??? hand" wasn't going to work. I was able to hold the phone down while also pulling up on the suction cup all with my left hand (almost like i was peeling the screen up). Stuck a plastic Opening Pick in the small opening, then slid in the flat end of a spudger. I could not rotate the spudger like in the photo (photo 2 of step 6), the screen was stuck on too tight, so I just started sliding the thin end of the spudger around. I held the phone up in front of the heater during this. I also used the pick to cut adhesive along the way.

+1 on the pointy knife to get the screen pried up. I couldn’t get the suction cup or tape to adhere well enough due to the glass being so shattered. I heated it for quite a while with the hair dryer on high, got a very sharp knife tip under the glass where the “notch” is, and used that to pry upward while another person slid the end of the spudger into the gap I was holding open with the knife. This one step was basically a three-handed job.

As others have said, do not twist the spudger. To release the display, you only need to create a gap of a few millimetres. Better to slide the spudger as directed to release the adhesive, bottom left and right.

ok but where js the oart about puttung ut back together? mine diesnt snapinto place,……

Use two spudgers.

One placed in the original breech position to be used as a wedge.

The other to get worked around the unit.

These spudgers are going to get destroyed in the process and will not likely be great for another repair.

Be careful when separating the halves not to pull off the black tape on the back of the screen half. Mine was stuck to the two halves and I thought it was double sided tape to holding the halves together. It was shredded in separating the 2 halves. It turns out it covers up some kindof of silver paste (purpose unknown) on the back of the screen so I cut a put a piece of plastic film to match it and taped it in place. We’ll see what happens…

can of soup and rubber band did the trick.

this is bs as they do not tell you reverse how to snap the fuker back on…..putting it in back on!,!!! the guy asks for points for writing thus? why not make a video you dirk….and how to put it back on….what about the other adhesive?..? you moron it says mothing…anyone else have a link? oi could barely put the screws back in..

takimg the fuker apart is easy….putting the $@$* together again? humpty dumpty!”!!!

When replacing the screen, make sure to get the top (camera side) lip in first, then work downward along the sides, getting the edge with the home button in last.

i normally use the long pick as a prop like that on a vehicle

I used a full beer can and 2 elastic bands to hold the face at 90 degrees. One elastic at the top and one at the bottom keeps the face still at 90 degrees. This allows you to work on the phone easily. I did not remove the face totally to redo the perimeter glue as I have never dropped my phone in the water over the “long” time I have had it.

On reassembly, notice that the top does not snap in. There are hooks that must be engaged before levering the halves back together

If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

used sheet of A4 paper and bluetak - stick screw in bluetak, write location & size on paper

mine is missing a screw!!! this is bs! this was mynmithers ohone nonone ooened it….one screw only…im liesed offf

Take a picture of the opened phone. Print it out. Put double sided clear tape over the picture of each screw. Stick the screws to the tape on the picture where they belong.

Rounded corner, both here and Display cover, takes the Longest screw.

David.

For removing screws, I used a piece of paper and sketched the screw locations and screw sizes in the appropriate pattern for each step I was working on removing screws. I folded clear packing tape in a loop so some sticky area was on top for each screw so they did not fly away when the hair dryer was on or in case I knocked the paper while working beside it. This kept all the screws in an easy pattern with descriptions for later install. Worked slick.

Ordered a replacement kit, opened my Iphone 6S, got to this step... surprise, my OEM battery connector is at the TOP ! I am stuck, what now?

It sounds like several people, including myself, had trouble charging the new replacement battery past about 10%. This ended up being due to the new battery not having a non-conductive insulator. The way to solve this is by adding a small piece of electrical tape to cover the battery connector before screwing in the battery connector bracket over it. You may want to do this on the first go-around.

If you do experience that problem, I found the answer here and it worked perfectly: iPhone battery not charging after DIY battery replacement. Why?

Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

To reduce risk of battery arcing , as soon as the old battery connector was detached, I wrapped it with insulation from connection all the way to the battery body. Did the same with the new battery to eliminate concerns about shorts while checking fit position to assure the connector would match up with the receiver. Only removed the insulation after all other connections had been restored, so plugging in the battery was the last step before closing the case.

My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

Anyone have the same issue?

A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.

I was unable to remove the display cable bracket. Therefore I was unable to remove the display, which meant I couldn’t replace the screen seal. ☹️ The small Phillips bit seemed too pointed so it couldn’t get into the screw deep enough to grip. The second Phillips bit was too big. It makes me wonder if I got the correct tool kit with my battery replacement kit.

The display does not have to be removed! If you secure it in place with a rubber band as advised (actually one at the top and one at the bottom works best - stops the bottom half of the phone sliding towards you) , it will quite happily sit there while the battery is replaced. It’s definitely better not to have to remove and reconnect those display connectors!

I’ve done this with an iPhone 5 and an iPhone 6S. I did not remove the display either time; I was afraid of damaging something unnecessarily. It’s definitely not necessary to remove it! I had an extra set of hands and eyes to help me be careful, but if you get the battery adhesive strips off cleanly, it’s easy to leave the display on.

I skipped 17 to 22 as I was not redoing the perimeter glue. Worked well for me, except the phone will not be water proof.

no need to remove the display. I did not even secure it..just did the replacement carefully. All worked out well. Also unless you are planning on submerging the phone in the water replace the perimeter glue. Otherwise it works just fine with out it.

Perfect. I followed the instructions and it worked to a "T". For the critics who don't know, the screwdriver handle is magnetized and will hold the tiny screws in place while you remove or insert them. After the battery replacement the phone seems to be going through some type of setup. I'll wait and see what happens after its charged to 100%.

The "Three 1.2 mm screws" seem to be particularly fragile either that or the PH00 and the PH000 are the incorrect drivers - this part of the guide should be clearer on what driver should be used as every time I touch these screws I seem to strip them 😩

Hope this helps

Regards

IMHO this is not neccessary.

I took A Guy Called Guy's advice and skipped this entire Front Assembly Step and went straight to Step 23.

For me, both the camera flex cable and the digitizer cable from step 20 came out together. Made me wonder in step 20 where was the cable I needed to release :-)

Are there any tips for plugging the connectors back in, besides don’t push on the center of the digitizer? It felt like I could really mess up the pins if they weren’t aligned correctly and I tried to push them in too firmly.

IMHO this is not neccessary.

My touch id does not work anymore after battery replacement. Can it be that its due to badly connected digitizer cable to connector? Everything else seems to work perfectly. Thanks

I can get one end of the thing to fit in to place, and then when I move over to push the other side down, the first side pops back out.

I've got the reassembly order backwards and installed the battery first, and the digitizet seccond. I think I fried something, because smoke came out of the socket. Can anyone tell me what needs to be replaced?

IMHO this is not neccessary.

There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process. My replacement only got 3, what should i do?

IMHO this is not neccessary.

Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

If reapplying adhesive, I would strongly recommend that you wait until you are reassembling the phone. Otherwise, trust me, it gets really sticky and limits your mobility around the phone. I had it all over my fingers by the time I finally got the old battery out and the new one in.

Removing the battery was a challenge as the old adhesive snapped before it came out so I had to use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before slowly peeling the battery off. I still manage to puncture the batter and nearly had a fire. When inserting the new battery I didn’t leave enough room for the connector to fit beside it so I had to pull it off, plug the connector into its port, then insert the battery. I think the instructions should warn you to leave enough room for the connector to tuck in beside it.

The kit came with a new adhesive gasket but I could not find the instructions on how to install it. But after 45 minutes I had it done and my iPhone 6S is back in working order. Don’t forget to ‘hard’ reset the phone on start up, run the new battery all the way down. Otherwise this is a very good value time and money wise.

I preferred not to use the adhesive edges around the phone, as this makes replacing the battery in future more time consuming. My iPhone works fine without the adhesive.

By not removing the Taptic Engine, you would be making the next step twice as hard as it needs to be. This should be a mandatory step!

The strip edges were not visible/ accessible on my phone. In hindsight, Taptic Engine removal should have been required.

Even with a four-year-old 6s, the battery adhesive came off cleanly. Keeping it at a shallow angle as possible, greatly helped by removing the Taptic engine, makes it very easy to remove the adhesives without really much effort. Do it one at a time, however; I’ve seen videos, one by iFixIt, in which more than one were pulled out simultaneously, which resulted in two of the strips breaking off.

I failed this final boss battle. My strips broke; even with heating. A pro tip was to use an E string from a guitar. Since we’re on virus lockdown I didn’t want to sacrifice a guitar string. I used 25# monofilament fishing line and a 2# dumbbell and slowly wound the line around the dumbbell. FYI, After reading these comments, I should have removed the haptic, but didn’t.

My battery only has one long black strip across the battery instead of two - what do I do?

My iPhone doesn’t have strips that come out and attack to the bottom of the battery like these do. If it has any, they’re entirely under the battery. I bought it second hand in China so I’m guessing whoever did the last replacement did it differently. Does anyone know what I can do?

1. I am going throw in the heated rice shoulder pad thingy again here. I didn’t do it with the first one but saved me when my second adhesive snapped. Got the phone almost too hot to touch (but not to hot to hurt the phone).

2. Parallel pull as much as possible

3. Pull not much past the end of the phone and then cinch up and go again. Mine easily went 20 cm before freeing.

4. Umpteenth affirmation of removing the taptic engine as standard step.

Definitely remove the Taptic Engine. Gives an easier angle to remove the strips under the battery. Lift the phone bottom about 30 degrees and heat the bottom of the phone with the hair dryer for about 30 seconds. Then heat the tabs on the face of the battery for about 20 seconds to soften them. Pull back the first tab with the tweezers to loosen all you can, and pull with a full width hold using the tweezers until you get about 2 inches of tape loose. A slight side to side motion helps to dislodge the tape. Wind the tape around a pen or pencil and keep pulling slowly to not rip the tape and wind as you go. A gentle side to side motion works well to start with, then just keep pulling straight back. You want the tape flat and wide. When the tape starts to narrow you are almost done. Seems like you have wound about 12” - 16” onto the pen. Then do the same for the 2nd strip. Remember to hold the battery in place as you near the end of the 2nd strip as the battery will be loose when you reach the end.

My strips broke. Used dental floss, those broke several times. Then decided to use some alcohol drops. This and the dental floss saved me.

I am enjoying now my new battery.

Thanks IFIXIT for the tools, the spare parts (battery) and the photo steps and explanations. I will continue to enjoy my iPhone 6s for several months.

Best Regards,

Tirso Boada - Nov 21

Removing the taptic engine should be required. It's the only step of the entire phone that takes less than ten seconds and you get a huge benefit of much more working room. It's not even held by anything else besides the screws, so no tiny snap-in connector to mess up. I just successfully pulled off both adhesive strips the first time I ever did this.

Do yourself a favor and remove the Taptic Engine before!

I removed the Taptic Engine... and found a loose little screw under it(!). Apparently there since the phone was built. Funny.

General comment: Heat was the key to getting the phone open. All else went quite well per the instructions.

I found using a normal eyebrow tweezers were more effective at peeling back the adhesive strips.

You may find removing the taptic engine helpful if one adhesive strips breaks as well, you can sometimes get hold of the remaining adhesive to start pulling again with tweezers.

Jeez luckily i stumbled upon you guys saying about removing the taptic engine, was sweating for a minute. after removing the taptic engine i use tweezers to pull a bit out and use my fingers to pull it out. the rest is history :) thanks guys

Both of my strips broke, I can’t get the battery out.

Both of mine broke as well. Make sure that TAPIT thing is out, then use the blue pry bar to pry the old battery up. Pretty soon you’ll be able to reach the tweezers under there and grab a strip. It’s pretty amazing. Once the strip starts pulling away, the whole thing zzzzips out in one piece

The absolute most difficult part. The two bands broke so I had to use the spudger and some isopropyl alcohol to pry the old battery up. It was very contorted and possibly leaking when i set it aside. Be very patient on this step!!

It should be mentioned that these strips run the length of the battery, and that by pulling them, you will be allowing the battery to be removed. Also, don’t bend or break the battery since that may cause it to catch on fire or leak dangerous chemicals.

As someone who never opened an iphone before, i took the advice and removed Taptic Engine FIRST before the adhesive steps, make your life easier and remove it.

Removed the Taptic Engine and used the width of the tweezers to grab the white part if the strips. Don’t try removing the black part. My strips came out easy with a little patience and force. These are like the 3M Command strips.

Explicit directions on how NOT to proceed when both strips remain intact would have been helpful. For example, prying out the battery from the short end is ill advised. Working the long side of the battery below the volume control is safer.

hi thank u so much u hellpt a lot and it was very helpfull

Dropping 2 or 4 drops of isopropyl alcohol on the strips as I pulled made a big difference, highly recommend. It allowed the strips to slide more easily on the end of the battery as I pulled. Removing the haptic was also easy and helpful, thank you!

I think that that the photo below is a bit misleading. Stretching the adhesive tape like that just makes it likely to break. I didn’t use any heat. Just peel the black tape off to expose the white rubbery adhesive then peel that off the battery. Hold both sides between thumb and forefinger and have your pinkie fingers braced on the edge of the phone. Start to gently pull with as little angle as possible and you can feel it start to move. As soon as it has come about 1/2” regrip next to the battery and repeat. As it gradually comes out over a few minutes it becomes easier as there is less tape left under the battery. You can tell when you get near the end as the tape width reduces until it just comes free. Repeat with the second tape and when that comes free the battery is now miraculously sitting in the phone loosely. No damage

I couldnt believe how easy this was after reading all the comments. Do it slowly with minimal tension and dont overstretch and it will come out. I did not have to disconnect the screen.

I have always had the battery adhesive break at this step. I’ve done a good 20 iPhone battery replacements. The adhesive always snaps on me, resulting in a lot of wasted time “digging” out the old battery.

Until today. Today I warmed the adhesive a little bit with a hairdrier, and I removed the Taptic Engine. The strips slipped out like a dream. It’s worth the extra 90 seconds of effort. I’m so happy that I had to comment here.

This is the hardest step in replacement. Both my strips broke and had to heat and pry multiple times. Tips: (1) definitely remove the taptic, (2) don’t let it slip from your fingers while pulling, (3) pull very slowly - 1/2” at a time, (4) after 1/2”, while keeping it stretched with one hand, regrip closer to battery with second hand, (5) because it stretches, you will pull it about 8 to 10 inches or more before the full strip pulls out, but pull from as close to old battery as possible.

my iphone 6s doesnt have those 2 strips showing. Any advise?

First time disassembling my 6s and both strips came off without breaking. Not sure if the idea for rolling the strips was in this guide or elsewhere, but I wrapped it around some tweezers for the first strip and then a small pencil (more symmetric) for the second strip…and pulled/rolled both rather slowly (never pulling past bottom of case). During the first go around with the tweezers, the strip started wrapping unevenly and it was pulling one side of the first strip more than the other. The sound the strip was making changed and it started becoming more difficult to remove, so I repositioned to a more symmetric part of the tweezers and it stopped being difficult. For the second strip with the small pencil, kept it slow and I didn’t have any issues. I think keeping equal force across the strip helps it not to tear, but I’m no expert.

just a random thought here but what about a small drill bit and drill??

This was my third battery replacement and the first time I successful removed both strips without breaking either of them. One thing I tried, and it seemed to work well, was to wear a thin vinyl glove on my pulling hand. That provided a really solid grip on the strip and I was able to just keep stretching until it popped free.

If you have used those 3M command strips, and successfully removed them from the wall without wrecking the paint, use the same technique. It’s actually kinda fun once you get the hang of it.

This is the most difficult part of the entire exercise. On my iphone6s it took 10 mins for the first unbroken strip. The second strip broke and it took about 5 hours. It still wouldn’t come. I came close to emptying out my 10 yard floss and still no luck. The only way I got it out was by feeding the underside of the battery with isopropyl alcohol 70% (I didn’t have the 90% that they recommend in this guide) and let it soak overnight. Voila. The next morning was a charm. It just came right off.

In hindsight, I would have just soaked it lightly with isopropyl alcohol, let it rest for a couple of hours or overnight and not have to bother with any string tugging, pulling and flossing!

Heating with a blow dryer on high for one minute per tab worked for me. Yes, by all means, take out the taptic engine. On my second strip, the black tab came off…leaving me with just a hint of white adhesive exposed. All I did then was slowly work the heated white tape with the flat blue spudger tool until I was able to grab hold enough to move out about 1/4” or less. Once an adhesive strip is grasped, walk it out slowly, straight, and horizontal as possible…using two hands…moving the strips out from each thumb and forefinger at a time. It takes a minute or two to slowly walk out one strip in this manner. Getting a good first grab between thumb and forefinger is the hardest part. I used the flat side of the blue spudger to help make that first grab. Once you have it, hold it…don’t start pulling right away. Get your other hand (thumb and forefinger ready) and then begin the “itsy-bitsy-spider” slow walk straight out.

The strips want to stick on the adhesive of the black cover for the battery connector cable. I suspect that this is part of what makes them want to break. I removed the cover and used a little heat on the bottom of the phone case and all went smoothly.

Yep failed at first attempt to remove the strips. Thank you for suggesting to the remove the Taptic Engine bar piece and use the tweezers nd pull very very slowly. Satisfyingly the strips then came out as intended :)

Took the Taptic engine out and followed 456eec's instructions (above) to a tee. Came out without a hitch.

This image gives you a wrong understanding on how strong you need / should tie. Please be very patient and regularly shorten the tape length by grabbing it close to the battery again and again... it's a total mess when the tape brakes or snaps back under the battery.

One of my pieces of tape broke. After trying a few other things, like trying to prey loose the battery (did not look right), the best thing to do was to remove the Taptic device and get the piece of tape using tweezers and then gently pull back the tape.

so i pulled too hard and the tape broke. Does isopropyl 70% also work or do i have to use the 90% ?

Zahnseide ist eine sehr sehr gute Idee, hat einwandfrei funktioniert.

Dental floss is a very very nice way to remove the battery :)

I recommend removing the Taptic Engine as described in step 23 comments. It was enough to allow me access to the second strip after it ripped.

I used a newer model heating pad instead of buying an iOpener - mainly because I had it laying around. I’ve used it successfully on two iphone battery swaps. Newer heating pads are well temperature controlled, and even the hottest setting isn’t that hot.

For french user : the best option to remove the adhesive if you broke up, is to use an ID card.

Pour les français : la meilleur option pour décoller l’adhésif si vous l’avez casser a l’étape précédente est d’utiliser une carte d’identité, car assez fine et souple pour ne pas abimer le le téléphone ou la batterie.

Dental floss worked like a charm.

I had to use dental floss as well, and quite a bit more force than I thought would be necessary…however it did the trick!

After a disastrous experiment at heating up a moist clean cotton dishtowel in the microwave (it didn’t flame, but it smoked), I got wise and used an electric laundry iron on a low setting and another clean dishtowel in between the back of the phone (with the battery facing down) and the iron. Using the spud carefully and an exacto knife, I was able to cut the leftover pieces of the white plastic adhesive and work it out without damaging the battery.

It is physically impossible to use the plastic card as shown, unless the battery has already been loosened by some other method. Is the photo provided to justify the use of an extra tool?

My adhesive strip broke. For prying the battery from the rear case, I put a thin flat plastic string under the battery from a corner of it (near the Taptic Engine). Carefully move the string upper and be patient, you will make it.

I tried all the solutions here and none of them worked. For me I was replacing the battery which I had previously replaced, and I think the adhesive was too brittle, and very sticky.

The solution I found was to use a 30/60° triangle ruler, I could use the top part to latch on to the adhesive and pull it out. I was also able to just push the adhesive back with it. It did cause the battery to bend quite a bit, but in the end it worked!

With scissors I cut an expired card down to fit under the battery. I have a microwaveable rice-pack which I heated for one minute, and then set the phone on that to maintain the heat. I slowly eased the card under the battery and backed off, realizing there would be build-up of loosened adhesive around the leading edge of the card. Using a spudger under the card helped me lift the battery out, and the card supported the battery, keeping it straight and safe. The rice-pack kept everything warm while I worked.

Exploded in my hand. 3/10, do not recommend

This was the hardest part for me. I had successfully pulled out one of the adhesives, but the second one broke and the remaining part of the strip sprang back to hide itself under the battery. So, I heated the back with my hair dryer and then tried the plastic card and dental floss ideas, neither of which worked. Eventually I was able to use the blue plastic spudger to lift just the very bottom of the battery, enough to allow me to grab that remaining strip of adhesive with the tweezers, and then with my fingers. I carefully pulled on the adhesive strip again and this time it didn’t break; the battery came right out.

I have found that braided fishing line works great, if you have it, to pull beneath the battery and separate it from the adhesive and case. I use about 12 inches of 10 lb test Fireline® with 1/4-inch steel washers tied to each end for grip.

What has happened to this step? Photos are missing. People refer to multiple different photos but only a picture of the iopener is associated with this step for me.

There are a enough ways to pry this out wrong that not only should 26 actually be complete with photos but should be its own separately linked outline.

My first came out like a dream. My second with same approach tore immediately. This, Step 26, between its useless photo and many dire comments leaves people in my situation somewhat in the dark.

Please fix this.

DON’T bend the battery. Major hazard here that the step and most of its comments can lead to. Again this step really needs flushed out for safety sake.

NO prying. So many places this can break something on the phone

For me, when my second strip broke, I duly heated the back of the phone. phone had to cool a bit before I could old on it to work on it.

Then I slid the spudger length wise under that battery at lowest angle without contacting anything to the homebutton end of the battery. and then just until I can get ahold of the white again.

If it breaks apply more heat, try to get at the white again and the pull more slowly and evenly and smaller increments between cinching up. If it breaks again, more heat, more slowly, more evenly, smaller increments.

Heat the tape areas with a hair dryer. Simple and works well. Only need a minute or two doing the heating.

I used a thin flexible metal kitchen spatula that fit and worked quite well. Had to work a while on the clumps of tape.

Dental floss is to favor as you do not tend to overbend the battery!

Seriously these adhesive strips should have come with the battery!!! I have the dam phone apart on my desk and now have to wait for the adhesive!!

I bought a display assembly kit and a battery. I didn’t realize the adhsive slips are needed but not included with stand alone battery.

RATS.

Now I’m phone less till the strips arrive.

Options for batteries should be

1) full kit, battery, tools and adhesive strips

2) battery and adhesive strips or

3) just battery.

Or or at least ask, “hey, you want strips with that battery?”

Hallo!

Vielen vielen Dank für die Anleitung. Sie hat mir sehr geholfen! Klasse Tutorial!

Allerdings muss ich sagen, dass mein Display am Rand verklebt war. Dies war hier leider nicht zu erkennen und erschwerte das Öffnen des Displays sehr. Ich habe ein iPhone 6s.

Aber ansonsten TOP!

My phone had 6 (six!) screws missing and loose inside the phone! Amazing they didn’t cause any damage. One was next to the battery, easy to replace while the battery was out. I found a few other screws slightly loose. Suggestion — check all the screws!

If you don’t have adhesive strips just use normal sellotape and make it go around the battery and fold around the back. (Would like to post a picture of how I’ve done it but can’t here...) Installation is a bit more tricky but at least you won’t have to deal with those horrible adhesive strips that break apart all the time leaving you with a 90% chance to have a battery leak in your phone for your next replacement!

I did this repair and now my home button doesn’t seem to work!!? No response to touch and no access to touch id. Please help! What have i done?

Did follow all the instructions (the adhesive strips are a pain !), put everything back together but I forgot to recharge the battery before it went completely dead … and then impossible to recharge the phone !?!

Tips for new battery: (1) test position before using adhesive, (2) new connector does not clip. I was *very* careful. I’ve done very small scale electronic repairs for years. However, the first two attempts were unsuccessful (had to remove the new adhesive and reposition battery. Didn’t work until I VERY CAREFULLY, repositioned the factory bends so that they did not force one end of connector too high at the socket end nearest the battery. Phone worked after doing this, but now the new battery has no adhesive.

Worked as described in about 30 minutes, (without replacing edge adhesive). Fiddly but took my time and no problems thanks.

Ha, ha. How many europeans browse the .com site, see the battery adorned with nice adhesive strips, then jump to the local store site to order, and miss the note telling them that the adhesive strips are not included, and will cost an extra few dollars? Awesome.

Take note, the battery needs to be carefully positioned before you let the adhesive strips make contact. If it's not right you won't fit the battery connector in. This should be included in the installation process. A lot of comments on this already, so it is an issue to note when putting the new battery in.

Definitely test-fit. For me, the replacement battery goes all the way to the left of the compartment, and just a tiny bit (maybe 1mm from the top..

For completeness, it should tell you to peel off the cover over the adhesive before seating the battery for real, even if it’s obvious. You can squirm the battery a tiny bit after taping it down if necessary.

Hello - I successfully replace the battery in iPhone 6S, but once powered up, the display has a vertical line down the left hand side of the screen, and the display is at time jittery. Also seeing like some ghost images of the app buttons? I did not damage the screen by what I can tell. Is there a chance one of the three ribbon connectors at the inside top is not plugged in right? They each felt like they popped in, seated right when reconnected.

After 30 minutes of heating with a hair dryer, prying, heating etc still all I get is one corner lifted. It got so hot I had to use wooden clothespins to hold my phone while I worked. I have no idea how anyone got this adhesive to soften enough to remove the battery. Total waste of time and money at this point. And flat? in your dreams.

Yes, test fitting is very important. I laid the old battery in and out several times, looking at it from all sides, then laid the new battery in SLOWLY and deliberately.

I did it with a slight twist:

- 1: “Dry” test fitting (keep protection on adhesive strips)

- 2: Connect the battery connector to its socket

Make sure that that the other above described connectors are removed,

and that the circuit board is not touched by anything else

to avoid short circuits

The pricise positioning of the connector is crucial, and the test fitting showed that that was not so easy to do

after the battery was in place (“dry” still)

I know the reservations about connecting the battery connector to the circuit board before everything else is finished,

but I considered it safe with the above measures in place. No guarantee. Comments welcome.

- 3: Remove the protection from the adhesive strips carefully, with the connector in the socket

- 4: “Slide” in the battery carefully, with the connector in the socket

- 5: Remove battery connector from the socket and isolate it to avoid short circuit

- 6: Continue the re-assembly as described

I found it easiest to first connect the battery with it in place, and then carefully rotate it up enough to remove the adhesive protectant, and then rotate back into position.

Great kit!!! Worked perfectly. They’ve even updated it and added the battery strips pre-installed to batterys back side!!! Nice;)

Everything worked well except for the suction cup for removing the display: it would not keep a seal while pulling no matter how many times I cleaned both it and the screen. I finally ended up using a larger one designed for removing the glass off of an aluminum iMac—just happened to have a hard drive installation kit from OWC waiting for me to get around to upgrading the desktop. It clicks into place and will *not* come off until you release the handle. Using that, a little heat, and a lot of patience, I was able to remove the display and continue. All of the other tools are top-notch, but the suction cup in the kit I received is of no value at all.

The instructions for replacing the battery were mostly fine - the most difficult part I found was separating the display from the case using the suction cup, but with perseverance I succeeded.

The problems started after I powered the 6S with the new battery. My iPhone 6S is running iOS 15.0.1 at the time I write this. I didn’t heed the warning of doing a forced restart and I think that caused a lot of problems performing a battery calibration. The battery status initially said maximum capacity at 100% but then it started to randomly reboot and said the battery needs service. Battery indicator would jump between 5% and 15% and the UI/keyboard was really laggy. I eventually wrangled the 6S in a state where I could consistently charge the battery to 100%+2 hours — watching CoconutBattery show the charging information. I have yet to drain it, but it looks like it’s holding a charge now and it’s taking forever to drain on idle (which is good!).

So heed the warning, force restart your phone. And bat calib is finnicky

I would have liked to se the assembly part and the use of the screen glue. Los about 1 hour to close it.

When I first reassembled the phone after changing out the battery, I did do the battery test fit as recommended before securing with adhesive. I completed the rest of the steps to close up the phone and found it would not turn on. I then reopen the phone and re-seated the battery. I then carefully turned on the phone before with the phone open to make sure the battery was properly connected. Once I knew it worked, I turned the phone off and performed the close up steps again. Very pleased with the new battery’s performance.

If you removed the taptic engine, replace it before this step - you don’t want to find you stuck the battery too low, and left no space for the taptic.

How do you put the new seal on? No mention of that. I found instructions elsewhere but couldn’t get it to line up exactly. Then the seal I refused to stay on the iPhone. It wouldn’t let go of the card. It got mangled enough that I finally skipped it.

I screwed up the glue on the Akku when trying to remove it from the Akku. Unfortunately the tooth floss didn't work out too well for me, because it was ripping constantly, but what worked out greatly for me was actually wrapping ribbon for presents. It is really thin and stable, it does not rip apart and worked out instantly. So that's my tip for those who screwed up that part.

Other recommendation for those who renewed the seal. First, remove the old seal with one of the tools and remove the dirt. Secondly (before you reassembly the display, that makes it easier),rip off the first protective transport plastic layer and identify the right direction, how the seal needs to be applied (use the handy bottom). Then place the seal starting on the top and use the edges to align the seal, then slowly moving downwards until the seal is placed completely. Third, push the seal a bit with the finger or with a tool to fix it before you remove the other plastic protective layer. Fourth, remove the protective plastic layer.

A TIP FOR THE CONECTOR DISCONECTING WHILE SEATING THE BATTERY: turn the battery at an angle to connect the battery connecter correctly THEN put light pressure on connector with the flat end of the spudger as you seat the battery into place.

there dosent seem to be a guide for the correct installation of the screen adhesive.

"To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order."

That statement is a stretch.

I successfully replaced both my battery and lightening port.

When disassembling, I put all screws on painters tape in the pattern in the photo. That helped keeping them straight when reassembling.

Both tasks should have explicit instructions on new part installation and reassembly. A video instead of photos would be even better.

There are many adhesive strips, pads, etc. that need to attended to and not mentioned in a "reverse order". Reinstallation of connectors, routing antennae cable, lightening assembly cable, etc. need detail.

Bottom line, my phone works and I'll get another two years out of it.

Thanks iFixIt.

Kevin J.

I just did a battery replacement in my wife's iPhone 6S. Everything was fine for a couple of days, I followed the instructions on charging the battery etc but after running it flat & plugging it in to charge again the phone got extremely hot. It displayed a warning showing a red thermometer saying iPhone needs to cool down before you can use it. I unplugged the charger, it had only charged to 9%. Switched the phone off & left it for a couple of hours. Re-started the phone & plugged it back in within minutes the warning came up again. Did an iOS update but still no change. Thinking at this point either the battery is faulty or I've damaged something internally. Was strange as everything worked on the phone until we let the battery go flat. My last throw of the dice was to do a full factory re-set & re-installed the back up & it's been fine for the 5 days since (touch wood)!! Phew!!!

My tape was not coming out even with a hot blow dryer on the back of the case so i added the drops of alcohol like it said and they started coming out easily.

Thank you I fixit