Google Pixel 3 XL Battery Replacement

Written By: Arthur Shi

Comments: 76

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

30 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

This guide shows how to remove and replace a worn out battery for your Pixel 3 XL.

For your safety, discharge your battery below 25% before disassembling your phone. This reduces the risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Replacing the battery requires un-gluing the wireless charging coil from it and transferring the coil to a replacement battery.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the back cover for a minute.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.
While you wait, note the following areas on the back cover:
Strong adhesive—there are large patches of adhesive near the bottom of the phone.
Fingerprint sensor cable—be careful not to slice through the cable as you pry

Step 2

Apply a suction cup to the heated edge of the back cover, as close to the edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you are having trouble, apply heat to the edge and try again.
Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.

Suction cup doesn’t work on severely cracked glass.

Jeffrey Kongthong - 22/12/20

Step 1 - 2 took me about 50 minutes. Back and forth with heat and trying with suction cup. I could get my finger nail in but not the pick. Took two people, but we finally got a pick in. 2 year old phone.

Andrew Messier -

Took about 15 minutes and three total attempts. On the third attempt, I also used a thinner, metal, pick to widen the gap just enough for the plastic pick to fit (Though be careful as you can easily break it with a metal pick). The phone is three years old.

Hotohori -

Could not get in with the pick or in from the side. Targeted the bottom of the phone with the iOpener and managed to gently create some space for the pick with the opener tool.

Daniel R. -

I also struggled here for a while. I ended up working my way around the entire edge of the phone until I found one spot where I could pry up the back panel. I used a jimmy instead of the opening pics. I also used a hairdryer on lower heat instead of the iopener. 3 year old phone.

Bryan Wethington -

Took 30 minutes + to get the back cover off. Used another suction cup to grip from the busted screen and the ifixit suction cup for the back. A thinner Acoustic guitar pick was required opposed to the standard Blues picks provided in the kit (har-har). Would HIGHLY suggest getting a pick into both the back and the front before removing the panels as it will give you more surfaces to pry from. Made that mistake...

Brian Sommer -

Over 2 hours of trying, I keep reheating the pouch and let it sit on the edge for sometimes up to 10 minutes since the directed 1 minute wasn't working. Physically cant get enough leverage on the back of the phone; picks are too thick to get under the crack, and the suction cup pops off before I can get enough force to see any gap open. Phone is 5 years old. I really need some help

Grant Cooper - 02/03/23

Hey Grant!
I hear your pain—the adhesives on this phone are very strong. The initial gap is one of the hardest parts of the procedure. Here are some suggestions:
* If you have a hair dryer, give that a shot. Heat the edge until it is slightly too hot to the touch.

* These adhesives separate not with extreme force, but with constant steady force and time. Try heating the edge and pull on the suction cup with firm force for about a minute to let the adhesive separate.

* If you have an opening tool, you can try this procedure to get the initial gap.

Arthur Shi -

Step 3

Slide the opening pick along the right edge to slice through the adhesive.
The adhesive gums up and becomes hard to slice once it cools. If that happens, re-apply heat to the edge to make slicing easier.
Once you have sliced through the edge, leave an opening pick in the seam to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 4

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom of the back cover for a minute.

Step 5

Use an opening pick to slice around the bottom right corner and continue along the bottom edge of the phone.
Work slowly as you slice around the corner to prevent the panel from cracking. If the slicing becomes hard, re-apply heat.
Leave a pick in the edge to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 6

Continue heating and slicing the remaining edges of the phone.
Be careful as you slice along the left edge of the phone. If your pick feels like it's stuck near the top, you may have snagged the fingerprint sensor. Retract the pick out of the seam slightly and try again.
Be sure to cut through the thick portions of adhesive near the bottom and right edge of the phone.

Step 7

Gently pry up the right edge of the back cover.
Use an opening pick to slice through any remaining adhesive along the edges.

Step 8

Swing the right edge of the back cover upwards and rest the flipped panel along the left side of the phone.
Be sure to maintain slack on the fingerprint sensor cable and prevent it from being pinched.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.
During reassembly, follow this guide to install custom-cut adhesives for your back cover.
If you replaced the fingerprint sensor, you'll need to use this software tool to make the phone recognize the new sensor.

Reassembly is way harder. The adhesive guide is generic and not super helpful, so don't be surprised if things went smoothly until you get to this step and then everything starts sticking to things its not supposed to.

Christopher Trimby -

This is great but how you address that fact that the phone is tied to a particular fingerprint sensor and after replacing, the new sensor is not recognized by the original phone?

Dave -

Hi Dave!

There's a software calibration tool that you can use to calibrate your new fingerprint sensor. I've updated this step to include a link to the tool.

Arthur Shi -

I have a pixel 3 xl and I can't get the tool to work. I finally got the driver's installed after several hours and it says it's for pixel 6 and up basically. So I tried the other option and it's basically saying to do a factory reset? Did I mess something up on the install or what am I doing wrong here? Thanks

Cody L Paulsell -

Uhhh

So, apparently the connector on the motherboard for the fingerprint sensor is just ridiculously fragile, because after plugging and screwing everything in (pretty much reassembled except for the adhesive), I closed up the phone and powered it on to test if everything was working, and when I opened it back up and let the top hang off to the side, it just snapped off. I didn't even have it tensioned that much, it was just hanging off to the side and snapped. So now I've traded a non-functional camera with a non-functional and irreparable (unless I get a new motherboard) fingerprint sensor.

The guide really ought to emphasize how delicate that connector really is. I have a google drive link here to a photo of the remnants of my poor fingerprint sensor connector :( link

Mindle -

Step 9

User tweezers to carefully peel up the yellow tape over the fingerprint sensor connector.

This step is utterly unnecessary. It achieves nothing, and the tape is there for a reason (I'm not sure why, maybe to prevent short circuits). I didn't remove this tape while disassembling and it didn't change anything.

Krzeszny - 24/08/22

The Kapton tape should adhere to both the cable and the connector. It helps prevent the cable from slipping out of the ZIF connector. You're right in that you don't have to completely remove the tape—I've adjusted the step to reflect this.

Arthur Shi -

I just finished this guide, thank you. It would be nice to have a "before ribbon removed" reference picture that's also without the Kapton tape in place if possible. I was no longer certain how far back into the ZIF connector I had to place the ribbon cable as I simply forgot what it looked like before removing it. Basically, it "felt" like it was out too far, but since I had no reference I couldn't compare. Step 10 has good close up pics, but the ribbon cable is already out a bit so a bad reference.

teknomedic -

Step 10

Use the point of a spudger to carefully flip up the black lock bar on the fingerprint sensor's ZIF socket.
Grasp the cable's tab with your fingers or tweezers and gently walk the flex cable out of the socket.
To prevent shorting, be careful not to touch the metal contacts on the flex cable with your tweezers.

Step 11

Remove the back cover.
Follow this guide to correctly apply new back cover adhesive.

Step 12

Remove the following four T3 screws securing the metal cover bracket:
Three 4 mm long screws
One 3 mm long screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Be careful when putting the screws back in that you do not over tighten. This will cause you to destroy some pixels on your screen.

Brian Retterer - 18/05/21

The long screw on my disassembly was adjacent to the lettering for the Qi inductive receiver, and not close to the silver exposed part of the battery as indicated

Andrew Munro -

In my case, all the screws are the same length.

Krzeszny -

Step 13

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the top right edge of the metal bracket and pry up to loosen it.
Remove the metal cover bracket.

There is a small adhesive pad under the metal bracket, between the two middle screws that will provide some resistance when lifting the metal cover bracket

Andrew Munro - 11/08/22

Step 14

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector from its socket.
Do not use metal tools to to disconnect the battery, or you will risk shorting the battery.
Bend the battery cable such that the connector will not accidentally touch the socket.

Step 15

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the charging coil connector from motherboard near the right edge of the phone.

Step 16

Insert the point of an opening pick underneath one edge of the charging coil.
Slide the pick along the edge to loosen the adhesive.
Slice as deep as you can while taking care not to puncture the battery's surface.

This step is completely not needed. The new battery already had a coil attached so i didn’t need to remove the coil from the old battery.

Mike Moffit - 12/04/21

^ Not in my kit.

Go slow, don't rush this one. It is harder than the case (at least for me)

Christopher Trimby -

My kit also did not come with a replacement coil or adhesive. Any suggestions on what to do here? Could I use adhesive strips to re attach the coil?

Glendon sowder -

Step 17

Tilt the edge you have been slicing upwards.
While holding the phone in a tilted position, apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high concentration isopropyl alcohol along the edge.
Keep the phone in that position for a minute or two to allow the adhesive to soften.

Step 18

Insert the flat end of an opening pick underneath a corner of the charging coil.
Push the pick slowly and firmly under the coil to loosen the adhesive.
The adhesive is mostly around the perimeter of the wireless coil. Use the opening pick to slowly slice through the adhesive.
If the adhesive feels difficult to slice through, tilt the phone up and apply a few more drops of adhesive remover.

Step 19

Remove the wireless charging coil.
To install a replacement coil:
Be sure to clean off the battery surface of any adhesive residue. Be very careful not to puncture the battery.
Connect the wireless coil connector to its motherboard socket. This ensures that the coil is properly aligned.
Peel off any adhesive backing on the replacement coil.
Lay the coil on top of the battery and firmly press it into position.

This step is a bit out of place. It is only relevant if you are replacing the charging coil and keeping the old battery.

Michael Stember -

My kit did not come with adhesive for the coil. So check for that before you begin.

Christopher Trimby -

My kit also did not come with adhesive for the coil. Where can I buy the replacement coil or the adhesive to reinstall the old coil?

Glendon sowder -

Step 20

The next two steps show how to disconnect the button array connector so you won't accidentally damage it when you pry the battery out.
Remove the two 3 mm-long T3 screws securing the button array connector bracket.
Remove the button array connector bracket.

This step is unnecessary if you don't use a bracing pick (step 24), and I didn't use one because I found it unhelpful.

Krzeszny -

Step 21

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the button array connector from its motherboard socket.

I don't see how it helps. Even if you use a bracing pick, this connector doesn't seem to block it in any way.

Krzeszny -

We recommend disconnecting this cable to reduce the chance of severing it when you pry on the battery.

Arthur Shi -

Step 22

Insert the point of a spudger into the gap along the top edge of the battery.
Slowly slide the point along the gap to lift up and detach the insulating tape from the battery.
Fold the tape away from the battery.

this photo shows the volume/power cable above the battery detached, but that step is not included in any of the instructions (including removing the metal cover). I highly recommend detaching that cable and being very careful, lest you sever it like I did.

Ryan Yazel - 26/03/21

Step 23

Carefully slide the point of a spudger underneath the yellow battery pull tabs folded along the top edge of the battery.
Separate the pull tabs from the battery.

Step 24

There are steep, sharp edges near the top of the battery, that can easily break the adhesive strip as it's being pulled out.
Insert the flat end of an opening pick into the gap above the battery, behind a yellow pull tab.
Wedge the pick firmly underneath the battery. The pick will serve as a buffer for the adhesive strip as well as a prying point.

I did it without using a bracing pick because it makes the angle less shallow due to adding more material in the way. Also, I didn't notice any "sharp edges near the top of the battery". The gold-colored antenna thing sticks out, but it's on the "easy" side of the battery, the one that only has adhesive half as long as the left side, so the angle doesn't have to be as shallow there.

Krzeszny -

Step 25

Pull on the yellow adhesive pull tab with slow steady force. Try your best to pull it as shallow of an angle (vs. straight up) as possible.
As you pull on the adhesive tab, maintain pressure on the opening pick to wedge it underneath the battery as much as possible.
If the adhesive feels stuck, you can apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high concentration isopropyl alcohol into the gap to help loosen the battery. Doing this will most likely loosen both strips at once.
Repeat the process with the second adhesive pull tab.

I used alcohol but this strip shown in the photo just wouldn't come out and it eventually broke due to tension. I suppose the Pixel 3 design team didn't care about the fact that using an adhesive strip as long as the battery makes taking it out imposible.

Fortunately, once I removed the strip on the right side (which is much shorter), I was able to insert a spudger after I tilted the battery up and I cut through the remaining adhesive from the right side.

Krzeszny -

Step 26

Remove the battery.
Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.
To install a replacement battery:
Remove any remaining adhesive from the battery well.
Temporarily re-connect the battery connector to its motherboard socket. This ensures that the battery will be properly aligned.
Apply stretch release adhesive strips, double-sided tape, or pre-cut adhesive strips.
Lay the battery in the phone and press it firmly in place.
Disconnect the battery connector from its motherboard socket and resume reassembly.

While the nobel work of ifixit and the supporters goes unquestioned…. why only bring us halfway? Which pieces of the tesa for the battery, coil and….? Which direction does the adhesive template go on… a few more pictures and you walk us across the finish line.

Thanks just the same

Rod Romo -

I'd recommend a generic stretch-release adhesive for the battery cut for size (best for future replacements) and I'd also use a smaller strip than original on the left side, because I found it impossible to remove the original long strip.

Any kind of double-sided tape for the coil will work (best if it's one that can be unglued in the future, so you can use very small pieces, it doesn't have to be ultra-secure)..

Krzeszny -

Very helpful and managed to follow all the steps to the end (and back again). Battery shows up as charging (and holding charge) but the phone won't power on....

....any idea what I've missed or accidentally broken???

CAT -

I actually have the same issue. My phone died prior to the repair, but replacing the battery didn't change anything. I'm wondering if it is a reoccurring issue issue with this model.

Jared -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Then use your device until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Author

Arthur Shi

Member since: 03/01/18

218169 Reputation

40 comments

Very helpful, thank you! I was able to replace my battery pretty easily thanks to this guide.

Gabriel Frederick - 13/05/20

Hey. After installing ney battery and new usb port my Pixel 3 has problems with microphones. Its only works with phoning via speakers. can you help me ?

kevin reiter - 11/09/20

Hi Kevin,

Assuming that you did not remove the motherboard (which houses a mic), it sounds like something may be off with the daughterboard, which surrounds the USB port and houses the other microphone. I would suggest carefully disconnecting and re-seating the daughterboard connectors, and making sure that the microphone is aligned to the port.

Arthur Shi - 11/09/20

Thanks for these great instructions.

I followed them, and managed to replace my old Pixel 3 XL battery without any problems.

Luis Ibanez - 11/10/20

What about re attaching the charging coil? The adhesive is now shot on the coil. What should you do to adhere the coil to the new battery?

Glendon sowder - 27/10/20

Hi Glenden,

You can use some strips from the pre-cut adhesive card to re-affix the coil onto the new battery.

Arthur Shi - 27/10/20

just use some of the old adhesive from the cover to tack down the four corners. It is still sticky enough. Once you put the back cover on, it will snug everything nice and tight

rjhv28 -

The kit came with much more adhesive strips than needed for securing the battery. I cut a few small pieces out, stuck them to the battery where the old adhesive was, not under the coil itself, and that worked well. Be sure to plug in the coil first for proper alignment. Then press down on the closest adhesive bit and work your way away from the connector keeping the coil flat.

Michael Stember -

any recommendation as to where i should buy a good battery?

thank you in advance!

Alessandro Alan Palumbo - 27/01/21

Hi Alessandro,

If you are in the US, we sell replacement batteries and battery kits for the Pixel 3 XL. We stand by the parts we sell and have great customer service if any issue arises.

Arthur Shi - 27/01/21

Used this to replace the back cover, battery and USB board on my Pixel 3xl. Very happy with the parts and tools I ordered from ifixit. Replaced my old elastic band pro tech tool kit with the new magnetic one, and all the other tools with it are a better quality it seems.

Mycahya Eggleston - 02/03/21

Very bummed, replaced battery and now I can not get phone to turn on at all. Have checked and rechecked everything, Ribbon cable from left side (that runs under battery) was cut :(

Any advice appreciated.

Eric Connely - 07/03/21

same. the picture shows that cable being disconnected in the process, but that instruction was not included. I had to order a new cable and will be attempting to replace mine.

Ryan Yazel - 26/03/21

Thanks for the feedback! I’ll add a step to disconnect that cable into this guide.

Arthur Shi - 30/03/21

hello i take the phone to a local store to replace battery and rear camera, all working good but then i notice a black dot on my screen he say that will vanish over time but im not sure whats that?

FooRuki - 25/03/21

how long am i supposed to leave the heating pad on the phone? it’s been around 30 minutes now, and it’s been impossible to insert any picks in the phone

Dimitri Nikolaou - 06/04/21

You should apply the iOpener for about a minute or two. After that, you’d need to reheat the iOpener for it to be hot enough.

If you’re using a heating pad, usually less than 10 minutes at a sufficient temperature should loosen the adhesive.

Arthur Shi - 07/04/21

After I replaced the battery, the system told me that “Plugged in, can’t charge right now”. What does it mean?

Rui Min - 10/04/21

Maybe it is only a bad connection: try to reconnect the battery connetor

Daniele Carminati - 10/04/21

Managed to replace the battery, but the fingerprint sensor stopped working afterwards, and the touchscreen became unresponsive the following day for some reason. A $40 upgrade seemed worthwhile, but $200 makes me feel like I should’ve bought a new phone instead (especially with the software annoyances that the phone had been having as of recent).

Alejandro Romero - 19/04/21

However, I would like to add that the guide was still helpful. I might have damaged some components because I was struggling in trying to remove the back panel.

Alejandro Romero - 19/04/21

My fingerprint scanner also ceased working, but I'm positive I was too handy with the ribbon cable. I could never get the fingerprint unlock to recognize my prints for longer than 3 days after setting them, so no loss for me. sorry to hear about your touch screen though.

Nikolas Sanow - 24/04/21

Success! My 3XL was hit by a projectile and the damage to the battery was causing it to shut off randomly. Followed this guide and the back panel replacement and now I can wait to “upgrade”.

Nikolas Sanow - 24/04/21

Very helpful. Tedious job but very doable.

Randall Akers -

Helpful & great guide!

Albert Einstein -

Replaced the battery using the ifixit kit and this guide. Everything went swimmingly, however I still cannot boot my phone. It seemed that the battery was the clear failure, as it’s slightly ballooned and started rapidly dropping charge just prior to the phone failing completely. Testing the battery leads of the new battery shows 3.82 volts, the old battery shows 3.73 volts. This seems like the old battery is actually holding charge, but it somehow wasn’t making it to the phone properly.

Any ideas on what could be the failure?

Sean Hunter - 12/11/21

Great guide! I had successfully replaced my pixel 3xl battery. Keep it up! Would be pretty cool if the parts and replacement battery is available to Singapore too.

If you need a re-delivery here in SG, let me know!

Yiqiang Tan - 06/12/21

The hardest part of this job was getting the initial wedge under the adhesive. Once that first wedge is there its all about going slow and careful. Don't bury the wedge or else you'll take out the fingerprint sensor ribbon cable. I'm very handy but this guide made repairing it very simple. Just follow the guide and you'll be fine.

Fraz Kayani -

Thank you for the guide it helped me out a lot!

It’s my first time repairing a phone and everything went well except that I applied a little too much pressure when removing the old battery and I may have scratched up the screen from the back a bit and now I have a few dead pixels on one side. Totally on me for having clumsy hands and not knowing when to apply pressure.

Needless to say lesson learned and will keep it in mind for future repairs. That being said I’m happy to report that I’m currently cycling through the first couple of charges to make sure the battery gets properly calibrated.

I’ll have to live with the few dead pixels for a year or so before I think of switching phones.

Eugenio Curia -

Replaced the battery but now the power button does not work. I was able to get it to turn on eventually and the volume buttons do work but if I try to lock the phone or reset it nothing happens. Is there a ribbon that connects the power button to the motherboard in the back?

Brad Illig -

Hey Brad!

You'll want to check the button array connector shown in this step.

Arthur Shi -

Quelques semaines après avoir effectué cette répartition, mon téléphone fonctionne toujours très bien. Merci pour ce tutoriel.

N. Salvatore -

This guide was very good. The previous owner had said they replaced some parts prior to selling to me, so the battery tabs weren’t there. I used Goo-gone to soften the adhesive beneath it and very gently pried as lightly as I could. That part was sketchy! Couldn’t have done the replacement as easily without this. Thank you so much!

Scott P. -

Thanks Arthur

Good guide. Easy to understand. I did it in about 30 min.

Steve Benson -

Anyone want to buy a complete set from me? I can't even get past the first step to create the gap, tried for 2 hours already... Also the images dont cover what the "tesa" sheet is with all the pre-cut elements, event the secondary guides. Seems like what is shipping today doesn't align with what the guide is covering for a Pixel 3 XL

Todd Grayson -

Excellent guide, completed without any major issues. My Pixel battery expanded a bit during a flight and I was able to order the kit and have it delivered and the phone repaired within the week.

Context: I'm a novice at any kind of tech repairs, the most experience I had prior is replacing some Nintendo Switch joy cons.

Recommendations: If you're like me and only have a few torx and tri-point drivers, it's well worth it to order the kit for ~$5 more than the part alone. The iOpener is super useful (along with the 6 picks) as getting the back off is the most difficult and tedious part with all the adhesive. Also of note that others have mentioned, the kit does not come with a replacement charging coil or adhesive. So if, like me, you intend to reuse the coil, DON'T remove all the adhesive from the back as suggested in the guide.

All in all a solid and easy to follow guide.

Justin Perry -

So I just did this replacement and this really is a great kit and a outstanding product and it all worked BUT there are two critical components that I believe the instructions do not emphasize enough. I will order them from most important to least important but the most important one listed below comes at the end:

1) Cannot emphasize enough how careful you need to be putting the adhesive back on as the very last step. I think these kits should come with three sets of adhesive because unless you have experience in this you will mess it up. My kit's adhesive came all in red coloring but the linked instructions indicate there will be a clear component and a colored component and I got totally confused and just made a complete mess of the back adhesive. It still kinda worked but not ideal.

2) Cannot emphasize enough how delicate you need to be on step 9 & 10 above removing the fingerprint sensor. I tore the sensor off trying to remove it. Phone still works but be extremely slow and careful.

Brandon Collette -

I followed the guide but unfortunately severed the button array cable when prising the old battery off. Is there a fix for this?

Paul Gubbay -

Can't get pick under the adhesive after constant heating. The crack on my phone is so small that I cant find a single thing with an edge fine enough to get under the phone. The suction cup pops off before I can see enough of a gap (the back is clean, not cracked or scratched). Really struggling to get past step 1. Any suggestions?

Grant Cooper -

I ordered my Pixel 3 XL on October 12, 2018 from Google Project FI and the battery is now bulging. As I was traveling in Spain, I contacted them and asked them for the local service provider, yet they told me that the Google version was different from the one provided by carriers (T-Mobile/Sprint/T-Mobile/AT&T) and this meant it could only be serviced in U.S. ; this is somewhat of a catch-22 situation as taking a plane with a bulging battery might not be safe, so I did some research and found that my battery was made by Huizhou Desay Battery Co., LTD (mfg code DSB) from June 2018 (who in 2019 had a rev 01) whereas the battery you show in the 3 XL is a Sunwoda Electronic Co Ltd dated 05 May 2019 (mfg code COS). Besides the fact that the shelf life of a Li-Ion battery is limited, can you let me know what the batch date of the battery you provide and then the compatibility with the Project FI version of the Pixel 3 XL made by Foxconn. Thanks !

CHRISTOPHER QUARKSNOW -