Google Pixel 3 XL Screen Replacement

Written By: Arthur Shi

Comments: 49

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

40 minutes - 2 hours

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Follow this guide to remove and replace a broken screen for your Google Pixel 3 XL. This procedure is for replacement screens that are not pre-mounted onto a frame. Due to the Pixel’s design, you will have to remove the back panel in order to disconnect the screen connector.

Before you begin this procedure, be sure to have a set of replacement adhesives for both the back panel and the screen.

This procedure will destructively remove the Pixel 3 XL’s screen. OLEDs cease to work when exposed to oxygen or moisture, and are thus sealed in an airtight encapsulation (this is also why OLED panels turn black underneath a screen crack). It is very difficult to replace the front glass alone— the Pixel’s OLED layers are laminated to the glass.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the back cover for a minute.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.
While you wait, note the following areas on the back cover:
Strong adhesive—there are large patches of adhesive near the bottom of the phone.
Fingerprint sensor cable—be careful not to slice through the cable as you pry

Step 2

Apply a suction cup to the heated edge of the back cover, as close to the edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you are having trouble, apply heat to the edge and try again.
Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.

Suction cup doesn’t work on severely cracked glass.

Jeffrey Kongthong - 22/12/20

Step 1 - 2 took me about 50 minutes. Back and forth with heat and trying with suction cup. I could get my finger nail in but not the pick. Took two people, but we finally got a pick in. 2 year old phone.

Andrew Messier -

Took about 15 minutes and three total attempts. On the third attempt, I also used a thinner, metal, pick to widen the gap just enough for the plastic pick to fit (Though be careful as you can easily break it with a metal pick). The phone is three years old.

Hotohori -

Could not get in with the pick or in from the side. Targeted the bottom of the phone with the iOpener and managed to gently create some space for the pick with the opener tool.

Daniel R. -

I also struggled here for a while. I ended up working my way around the entire edge of the phone until I found one spot where I could pry up the back panel. I used a jimmy instead of the opening pics. I also used a hairdryer on lower heat instead of the iopener. 3 year old phone.

Bryan Wethington -

Took 30 minutes + to get the back cover off. Used another suction cup to grip from the busted screen and the ifixit suction cup for the back. A thinner Acoustic guitar pick was required opposed to the standard Blues picks provided in the kit (har-har). Would HIGHLY suggest getting a pick into both the back and the front before removing the panels as it will give you more surfaces to pry from. Made that mistake...

Brian Sommer -

Over 2 hours of trying, I keep reheating the pouch and let it sit on the edge for sometimes up to 10 minutes since the directed 1 minute wasn't working. Physically cant get enough leverage on the back of the phone; picks are too thick to get under the crack, and the suction cup pops off before I can get enough force to see any gap open. Phone is 5 years old. I really need some help

Grant Cooper - 02/03/23

Hey Grant!
I hear your pain—the adhesives on this phone are very strong. The initial gap is one of the hardest parts of the procedure. Here are some suggestions:
* If you have a hair dryer, give that a shot. Heat the edge until it is slightly too hot to the touch.

* These adhesives separate not with extreme force, but with constant steady force and time. Try heating the edge and pull on the suction cup with firm force for about a minute to let the adhesive separate.

* If you have an opening tool, you can try this procedure to get the initial gap.

Arthur Shi -

Step 3

Slide the opening pick along the right edge to slice through the adhesive.
The adhesive gums up and becomes hard to slice once it cools. If that happens, re-apply heat to the edge to make slicing easier.
Once you have sliced through the edge, leave an opening pick in the seam to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 4

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom of the back cover for a minute.

Step 5

Use an opening pick to slice around the bottom right corner and continue along the bottom edge of the phone.
Work slowly as you slice around the corner to prevent the panel from cracking. If the slicing becomes hard, re-apply heat.
Leave a pick in the edge to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 6

Continue heating and slicing the remaining edges of the phone.
Be careful as you slice along the left edge of the phone. If your pick feels like it's stuck near the top, you may have snagged the fingerprint sensor. Retract the pick out of the seam slightly and try again.
Be sure to cut through the thick portions of adhesive near the bottom and right edge of the phone.

Step 7

Gently pry up the right edge of the back cover.
Use an opening pick to slice through any remaining adhesive along the edges.

Step 8

Swing the right edge of the back cover upwards and rest the flipped panel along the left side of the phone.
Be sure to maintain slack on the fingerprint sensor cable and prevent it from being pinched.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.
During reassembly, follow this guide to install custom-cut adhesives for your back cover.
If you replaced the fingerprint sensor, you'll need to use this software tool to make the phone recognize the new sensor.

Reassembly is way harder. The adhesive guide is generic and not super helpful, so don't be surprised if things went smoothly until you get to this step and then everything starts sticking to things its not supposed to.

Christopher Trimby -

This is great but how you address that fact that the phone is tied to a particular fingerprint sensor and after replacing, the new sensor is not recognized by the original phone?

Dave -

Hi Dave!

There's a software calibration tool that you can use to calibrate your new fingerprint sensor. I've updated this step to include a link to the tool.

Arthur Shi -

I have a pixel 3 xl and I can't get the tool to work. I finally got the driver's installed after several hours and it says it's for pixel 6 and up basically. So I tried the other option and it's basically saying to do a factory reset? Did I mess something up on the install or what am I doing wrong here? Thanks

Cody L Paulsell -

Uhhh

So, apparently the connector on the motherboard for the fingerprint sensor is just ridiculously fragile, because after plugging and screwing everything in (pretty much reassembled except for the adhesive), I closed up the phone and powered it on to test if everything was working, and when I opened it back up and let the top hang off to the side, it just snapped off. I didn't even have it tensioned that much, it was just hanging off to the side and snapped. So now I've traded a non-functional camera with a non-functional and irreparable (unless I get a new motherboard) fingerprint sensor.

The guide really ought to emphasize how delicate that connector really is. I have a google drive link here to a photo of the remnants of my poor fingerprint sensor connector :( link

Mindle -

Step 9

User tweezers to carefully peel up the yellow tape over the fingerprint sensor connector.

This step is utterly unnecessary. It achieves nothing, and the tape is there for a reason (I'm not sure why, maybe to prevent short circuits). I didn't remove this tape while disassembling and it didn't change anything.

Krzeszny - 24/08/22

The Kapton tape should adhere to both the cable and the connector. It helps prevent the cable from slipping out of the ZIF connector. You're right in that you don't have to completely remove the tape—I've adjusted the step to reflect this.

Arthur Shi -

I just finished this guide, thank you. It would be nice to have a "before ribbon removed" reference picture that's also without the Kapton tape in place if possible. I was no longer certain how far back into the ZIF connector I had to place the ribbon cable as I simply forgot what it looked like before removing it. Basically, it "felt" like it was out too far, but since I had no reference I couldn't compare. Step 10 has good close up pics, but the ribbon cable is already out a bit so a bad reference.

teknomedic -

Step 10

Use the point of a spudger to carefully flip up the black lock bar on the fingerprint sensor's ZIF socket.
Grasp the cable's tab with your fingers or tweezers and gently walk the flex cable out of the socket.
To prevent shorting, be careful not to touch the metal contacts on the flex cable with your tweezers.

Step 11

Remove the back cover.
Follow this guide to correctly apply new back cover adhesive.

Step 12

Remove the following four T3 screws securing the metal cover bracket:
Three 4 mm long screws
One 3 mm long screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Be careful when putting the screws back in that you do not over tighten. This will cause you to destroy some pixels on your screen.

Brian Retterer - 18/05/21

The long screw on my disassembly was adjacent to the lettering for the Qi inductive receiver, and not close to the silver exposed part of the battery as indicated

Andrew Munro -

In my case, all the screws are the same length.

Krzeszny -

Step 13

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the top right edge of the metal bracket and pry up to loosen it.
Remove the metal cover bracket.

There is a small adhesive pad under the metal bracket, between the two middle screws that will provide some resistance when lifting the metal cover bracket

Andrew Munro - 11/08/22

Step 14

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector from its socket.
Do not use metal tools to to disconnect the battery, or you will risk shorting the battery.
Bend the battery cable such that the connector will not accidentally touch the socket.

Step 15

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable from its motherboard socket along the right edge of the phone.

Step 16

Flip the phone so that the screen is facing up.
Heat an iOpener and apply it to a long edge of the screen for two minutes.
You may need to re-heat the iOpener during the process.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the internal battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Step 17

Apply a suction cup to the heated side of the screen, as close to the edge as possible.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Pull on the suction cup with steady force to create a gap between the screen and frame.
Depending on the age of the phone, this may be very difficult to do. If you are having trouble, apply more heat and try again.
Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.

So Im pulling up on the suction cup with enough force to pop it off and the screen is not budging. Ive heated the iOpener to max and let it sit for 2, 5, and 10 minutes. I cant seem to get the adhesive to release

Alex Cartier -

I actually managed to snap part of an opening pick off trying to work it in there

Alex Cartier -

Hey Alex,

The adhesive holding the screen is really tough. You may need to repeat the heating and pulling procedure multiple times to weaken the adhesive, or use a heat gun or hair dryer to weaken it.

Arthur Shi -

Be sure to pry the top most layer only. there is a frame for the replacement kit that is meant to stay in tack that sits directly below the display. It cracks easily too if removed. Advise super glue...

Brian Sommer -

Step 18

Slide the opening pick along the edge of the screen to slice through the adhesive.
The adhesive gums up and becomes hard to slice once it cools. If that happens, re-apply heat to the edge to make slicing easier.
Once you have sliced through the edge, leave an opening pick in the seam to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 19

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for a minute.
Use an opening pick to slice through the adhesive.
Leave an opening pick in the seam to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 20

Continue heating and slicing until you have sliced around the entire perimeter of the phone.

Step 21

The screen is still adhered to the frame by a large adhesive pad near the center of the screen.
Insert a spudger or plastic opening card into the edge and press in to slice through the deeper adhesive.
Continue slicing until the screen is freed from the frame.

Step 22

Flip the phone over so that the motherboard is facing up.
Push the display cable through its motherboard cutout. If you angle the cable such that one end slides under first, you can get it out easier.
You can loosen and partially remove the motherboard to create a larger gap.
If you are not planning to save the original display, you can just cut the cable to make retrieval easier.

I had to partially loosen the motherboard. That guide is a little confusing because its an extract from the full removal of the motherboard. I loosened the motherboard and connecters and gently lifted it with a spider to make space to the connector to pass between the midframe and the motherboard.

Daniel R. -

Step 23

Flip the phone so that the screen is facing up.
Lift the screen from the phone, cutting through any remaining adhesive.
Remove the screen.
You will have to carefully thread the replacement screen's display cable through the motherboard cutout. If you are having trouble, you can always loosen and partially remove the motherboard.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the speaker grille) or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
Follow this guide for instructions on how to apply adhesive to the replacement screen.
Be sure to test your repairs before you affix the screen with adhesives.
During the boot-up process after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Do not touch the screen during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.

The adhesive replacement for the screen has a small strip in the middle. I may have glazed over the "how to apply custom cut adhesive strips" section, but it wasn't obvious. That small strip is for the top of the screen just above the front facing camera.

ryanralfs -

Conclusion

If your Pixel won't turn on after replacing the screen, there is a chance that the phone has silently turned on when the battery is re-connected. Hold the power button for a few seconds until the phone vibrates off. Afterwards, re-connect the screen, and try again.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Pixel 3 XL Answers community for help.

Author

Arthur Shi

Member since: 03/01/18

218169 Reputation

23 comments

What adhesive do you recommend for the screen? This would be my first time doing repair on a smartphone. The guide says to have adhesive for the screen and back, but only has a recommendation for the back adhesive.

Vincent - 08/01/20

Hi Vincent,

The screen itself has a large adhesive pad—what’s missing is the thin perimeter adhesive. For that, I would suggest using some Tesa tape (here are general instructions on how to apply Tesa tape). Some repair techs use E6000 adhesive, but doing so complicates further repairs, and it can get messy. As a reminder, be sure to thoroughly test your repair before you glue the screen in place! Good luck with your repairs!

Arthur Shi - 08/01/20

Hi Arthur! Thanks a ton for putting this guide together, had no problem getting my old display out.

However, I’ve been having an issue I’m hoping you might be able to help with. When I plug the new display into the device, no amount of force-rebooting the device, or re-plugging the display and battery cables, will make the new display power on. I RMA’d the first display thinking it was the problem, but the replacement display I received is doing the same thing. The old display that was removed did work before removal, albeit with significant artifacting (due to the severely cracked display). Do you think there could be some step I’m missing? Perhaps the replacement display is also defective?

Thanks for your help!

Taylor - 30/01/20

Hey Taylor!

That is strange. I have heard scattered reports of other people having similar troubles over various Pixel models. I am assuming that you have the screen connected before you connect the battery. Did you purchase the screen from iFixit? If so, I can definitely check and test some of our screens to see if they are the culprit.

Arthur Shi - 31/01/20

Hi,

It is possible to know if a Pixel 3xl works, if I do not have screen?

I would like to be sure before to buy a screen.

Thanks for your help!

Modesto - 07/02/20

I replaced the screen but now I have 2 problems:

… wireless charging doesn't work

… fingerprint reader doesn't work

I am considering taking it apart again but don't know exactly what to look for.

Can anyone offer suggestions?

Bryan Phillips - 23/04/20

Hi Bryan,

The fingerprint reader is connected by a ZIF connector. Make sure that the fingerprint cable is fully inserted into the connector and properly locked down.

As for wireless charging, there is a chance that the connector was loosened during disassembly. Carefully pry up and re-seat the connector.

Arthur Shi - 23/04/20

Hi I tried to change my display and the touchscreen is not working ,I don't no what to

Danny Zmau - 15/05/20

Any help please

Danny Zmau - 15/05/20

Hi Danny,

Does the display light up?

Arthur Shi - 18/05/20

After completing this repair this past weekend I would like to comment on the removal of the back. I found it to be more difficult than expected. It worked better for me to use a blow dryer (hot) to heat the edges and then was able to pry the back off. I think I applied too little heat initially for fear of damaging the battery but found that I had to apply more than just the heat from an iOpener. Thanks for the great guidance! One other comment…The display connector is difficult to re-thread through the opening without moving the motherboard up to produce a bigger opening. Since I also replaced the USB connector at the same time I had loosened it and it was easier to thread it through.

Thanks again for all the pictures and the step by step!

markduenas - 15/06/20

Great tutorial, but I would definitely include (and not make it optional) motherboard removal as the display cable is extremely hard to slide out of that slot without doing that first. Luckily my display was shot so cutting the cable was the easiest way, but what if you wanted to save the part?

Stephane Polynice - 19/06/20

Hi Stephane,

Good point! I will adjust the step instructions. Situationally, I don’t think there is a reason to remove the display intact—the fragile nature of the Pixel displays usually results in damage when it is removed.

Arthur Shi - 19/06/20

I’m Having the same issues where i bought a screen and it didn’t work so I bought a new one and that one isn’t working either. What are the steps to counteract that. I feel its not the screen at this point.

michael_baldassari - 22/06/20

Very nice tutorial. After replacing the screen, I’m having an issue where the display doesn’t show anything, but the touchscreen portion is working as it provides haptic feedback on what I assume is the lock screen. The old sceen worked.

Alan Fast - 11/07/20

It’s possible the screen cable wasn’t seated properly. You could remove the back panel and reseat the cable. You can test whether it works without adding the rear panel.

Calvin Miner - 05/04/21

Hi, If I buy your screen replacement (Item code: IF356-051-1), and Back Panel Adhesive (Item code: IF356-086-1) - do I need any further adhessive or Tesa tape to complete a screen replacement?

Thanks for the tutorial!

Jason Meyer - 20/10/20

Hi Jason,

Unfortunately, you will still need some adhesive in order to reattach the screen to the frame. We currently don’t stock the custom adhesive for the screen, so a pre-cut adhesive card is the next best solution.

Arthur Shi - 21/10/20

What about transferring the speaker and microphone screens from the old screen to the new screen?

Glendon sowder - 27/10/20

Great tutorial. However, you missed a part about having to transfer speaker grilles to the new screen, as it does not come with them pre-installed. I did miss the step and realized that the speaker grilles are not installed after the screen was already glued back to the chassis.

Pawel Blizniuk - 02/11/20

Thanks for pointing that out! I’ll add a note in the last step.

Arthur Shi - 03/11/20

Hey,

thank you very much for tutorial, it is well made. After I closed the phone everything is normal, but first it said that finger print hardware is not available and after wards, it doesn’t show the error but finger print sensor still not working. I tried to fiddle with ribbon cable to see if it is actually inside the socket and it was ok. I’m out of ideas. Thank you in advance,

Kamyar Baghvand - 03/02/21

I did this directions fully. It took me closer to 3 hours. This was my third screen replacement after my Pixel 1 and Nexus 5. Everything works great! The only issue is that there is about a 1mm gap between the screen and the frame at the bottom. I bought the ifixit screen kit, but the screen tape included just had nothing for the bottom, so I wonder if I did something wrong. Generally though, the screen and back cover both stick out which makes it uncomfortable to hold because those sharp edges dig into my finger pads as I hold it. I thought i did enough to remove the leftover old glue, but it seems there was still enough to cause a gap. It would be nice to include tips or links on how to best remove glue to reduce the chances of this.

The hardest part was warming the glue enough to remove the screen and rear cover. I had to use my Heaterizer XL-3000 Heat Gun to fully remove it- the iOpener wasn’t enough, but it did help to warm up the phone and limit use of the hot air gun, which is always scary.

Calvin Miner - 05/04/21