Google Pixel 3a USB-C Port Replacement

Written By: Arthur Shi

Comments: 54

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

20 - 40 minutes

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Follow this guide to remove and replace a damaged USB-C port for the Pixel 3a. The USB-C port is completely modular and simple to replace.

The Pixel 3a’s unreinforced display panel is fragile. If you are reusing the screen, be sure to pay special attention to the warnings in the opening procedure.

The trickiest part of the procedure is re-attaching the proximity sensor connector, which requires some patience and finesse.

Tools

Parts

Google Pixel 3a Charging Assembly - Genuine

Step 1

Take note of the two seams on the phone:
Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. This is where you should pry.
Frame seam: This is where the plastic frame meets the back cover. It is held in place by screws. Do not pry at this seam.
Before you begin prying, note the following areas on the screen:
Screen flex cable: Do not pry deeper than instructed, or you risk damaging this cable.
Adhesive perimeter: Prying beyond the narrow perimeter without angling the pick will damage the display panel.

Power is off, but does the battery need to be disconnect to safely do this replacement?

mplishka -

Da ich keinen iopener ( dachte das wäre alles dabei wie auf der bstellvorschau!!!) habe ich eine Wärmflasche auf das Handy gelegt ..behutsam und nicht zu heiß. Besonders an Kopf und fußende war das Display ziemlich fest...befolgt man die Anweisungen genau ist es eigentlich kein Problem das Display vom Rahmen zu lösen, jedoch bin ich der Meinung, dass hier schon ein gewisses Maß an motorischer Vertrautheit mit der Materie bestehen sollte, da wie gesagt oben und unten doch ein tieferes eingreifen in den Rahmen unter das Display nötig ist...

Ralph S. aus Neumünster

Ralph S -

Step 2

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the display for a minute.
You can choose to skip this step since the Pixel 3a's screen adhesive is not very strong. Heating it, however, will decrease the chance of cracking the screen.

I used a washcloth soaked with hot water and sealed in a plastic bag instead of the iOpener for this step, and it worked great.

E. Dunham - 11/05/21

Step 3

Place a suction cup near the right edge of the screen.
Pull on the suction cup with strong steady force.
Insert the pick into the gap, no more than 1 mm.

Step 4

This step shows how to insert the pick without damaging the OLED panel. Do this before you slice either long edges of the phone.
With the pick 1 mm in the gap, pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle.
At this angle, carefully push the pick into the gap about 1/4" (6 mm). The pick should slide in below the OLED panel.
Stop if you feel the point of the pick hitting a ridge. The pick may be pressing against the edge of the OLED panel. Angle the pick and try again.

If you don’t have picks, you can also use the corner of an old gift card, though it may be necessary to shave it a bit thinner with a knife so it fits the gap better.

E. Dunham - 11/05/21

Step 5

Slide the pick along the right edge, slicing through the adhesive.
Do not insert the pick more than 1/4" (6 mm), or you may damage the screen's flex cable.
Leave a pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Don’t make my mistake and read ahead. 6mm may be too close for comfort! 8mm is definitely too far and caused me to damage. Also be sure to read the right manual! I have an XL and it notes 5mm.

Miguel Higgins-Moy - 15/01/20

Fortunately my old screen was beyond repair, But be super careful around the bottom I managed to sever the ribbon cable to the digitizer.

Stephen Hammons - 02/06/20

I broke my screen here. The adhesive in my case was quite strong on the top and bottom.

Mario Flores - 07/05/21

This is by far the hardest part of the entire replacement. I ruined my screen doing this, you might as well buy a new screen at the same time as you buy your battery. I just barely rubbed the edges of my screen and it turned the edge of my screen purple. This eventually migrated to the entire screen causing the whole thing to be purple/black.

Ross Lancaster -

Hard to not make a mistake here. It's more like 1/8". It's difficult to keep the pick at a steep angle at all times on left and right sides.

Won Choi -

Step 6

As you slice around the bottom edge of the phone, do not insert the pick more than 1/4" (6 mm).
Slide the pick around the bottom right corner to slice through the adhesive.
If the corner feels hard to slice, apply a heated iOpener to the corner for a minute and try again.
Continue slicing along the bottom edge of the phone and around the left corner.

Heating bottom of the screen and going very slowly is key here. The adhesive was stronger than expected, and I cracked the glass while going around this first corner.

Jerome C -

Step 7

Slice through the left edge of the phone, making sure to properly angle the pick below the OLED panel and insert it in no more than 1/4" (6 mm).
To angle the pick below the OLED panel, insert the point of the pick no more than 1 mm in, angle the pick upwards, and then slowly push the pick in 1/4".

Step 8

Slice along the top edge while keeping the pick no more than 5/16" (8 mm) in.

There is a LOT more adhesive at the top than anywhere else on the phone! It’s like there’s 2 lines of adhesive, one along the edge of the case and one along the edge of the screen, and it’s filled in between them wherever the speaker camera aren’t. I needed to heat and pry several times to get the top loose. Fortunately, there’s little risk of hitting a cable near the top (look ahead to the step where you lift the screen off to see where all the cables go!)

E. Dunham - 11/05/21

I found that applying the iOpener across the top edge of the glass for about 30 seconds at this step helped soften the adhesive significantly. My front camera was replaced only a few months ago by uBreakiFix and the display adhesive subsequently let go on the entire right edge, bottom, and part of the left side shortly after the new front camera failed. Only the top was still securely stuck.

Reid Solberg -

Step 9

With all of the edges cut, carefully hinge open the right edge of the screen.
Do not remove the screen. It is still attached to the phone by a flex cable near the left edge.
Use an opening pick to carefully cut through any remaining adhesive.

Step 10

With all of the adhesives cut, flip the attached screen glass side down and rest it on top of the phone. The screen flex cable should be loosely arched.

Hi, could you help me with one clarification?

What does the small “metal patch” in the middle of the display ribbon do?

Does it prevent the phone from starting while disconnected?

Thank you for your time!

oliver schirmer - 04/06/20

Hi Oliver,

I think the patch you’re referring to helps with either EM shielding or heat dissipation. It should not prevent the phone from starting.

Arthur Shi - 05/06/20

Step 11

Carefully peel the black tape covering the screen connector bracket.
If it is in good condition, you can re-use this tape during reassembly. Otherwise, replace it with a piece of electrical tape.
Remove the two 4.4 mm long T3 screws securing the screen connector bracket.
Remove the screen connector bracket.

This may be a silly question but how are you able to tell whether the tape is in good condition? Is it based off of how sticky it is after you remove it?

Sylvia - 25/08/20

That is a fair question! If the tape is in one piece and is relatively sticky, it can probably be used again.

Arthur Shi - 26/08/20

Oops! I forgot to put any tape back. Does this tape have a critical purpose, in other words should I go to the trouble to pry the screen back off and tape it?

elyze - 31/08/20

The tape does not serve a critical purpose. If you have already re-sealed your phone, I wouldn’t worry about it.

Arthur Shi - 31/08/20

Les vis sont des T4 et non des T3

Gaëtan PERRIER - 08/09/20

Bonjour Gaëtan ! Merci pour la remarque. En fait, il y a toujours une certaine tolérance entre le tournevis et la tête de vis. Donc il se peut que la taille supérieure ou inférieure soit plus “confortable” au cas par cas. Bonne réparation !

Claire Miesch - 10/09/20

Bonjour,

Pouvez-vous me conseiller un bon kit de réparation pour mon Google Pixel 3A?

J'ai peur de me faire arnaquer en achetant un mauvais écran de basse qualité .

mailsecoursd - 03/01/21

Step 12

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable.
When you disconnect connectors like these, be careful not to dislodge the small surface-mounted components surrounding the socket.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

I had accidentally pressed the power button and the phone was on when connecting the new screen and that broke the board! So make sure the phone is off.

Diako Mardanbegi - 24/12/20

is it okay if I forgot to add the black tape on the connector area???

Harry Banda -

Step 13

Remove the screen.
Carefully compare your replacement screen with your original part. You may need to transfer additional components (such as the speaker mesh) to the new part.
To reinstall the screen:
Follow this guide if you are using custom-cut adhesives.
If you are using double-sided tape such as Tesa tape, follow this guide.
During the boot-up process after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Do not touch the screen during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.

There is a blue plastic tape covering the digitizer and when I try to take it off it rips out something more than just the tape I think it’s pulling the magnet too

Darien Suarez - 25/05/20

i had a little plastic piece around the camera (seems to just be a spacer) that i moved to the new screen. had to pry it up with a pick cuz it was stuck down good.

elyze - 12/06/20

actually to clarify- i didn’t move the little camera spacer to the new screen- i placed it around the camera on the phone, where there was a little indent for it, and stuck it down with a bit of tesa strip, then applied more tesa strips around the edge of the phone before finally reconnecting and replacing the screen. the little plastic bit i encountered needs to be precisely placed around the camera so would not be a good idea to just stick it to the screen when reinstalling!

elyze - 12/06/20

Thanks team! I was able to replace my broken screen with no issues!

Instead of cutout adhesives or tesa tape, I used B-7000. Painless.

Appreciate the screen and instructions!

Jessica Hale - 29/10/20

Bonjour,

Pouvez-vous me conseiller un bon kit de réparation pour mon Google Pixel 3A?

J'ai peur de me faire arnaquer en achetant un mauvais écran de basse qualité .

Hello . Can you advice me a site where i Can buy a quality screen replacement pack for my Google Pixel 3A?

There's a lot of rip off on internet and id like to get a good pack and a quality screen .

Bichette Laterreur - 03/01/21

Hello! We currently sell a replacement screen. However, I’m not sure if it is available yet internationally.

Arthur Shi - 04/01/21

I have a quick question, so I haven’t done anything yet because I only just ordered my repair kit, but is it possible to replace the battery without having to replace the display ?

Braeden - 27/01/21

Hi Braeden!

Yes, it is definitely possible to replace the battery without replacing the display. With that said, the initial entry steps can be pretty tricky. Before you begin, look very closely over the display to see if you can see any micro-fractures. If you see any, you will most likely crack the screen when you try to remove it. Take your time and apply a heated iOpener often. Good luck!

Arthur Shi - 27/01/21

I forgot to order the tape when getting my replacement USB port, so I ended up putting the screen back on without any tape and using regular clear tape on the outside of the phone to keep the screen from falling off. It’s less waterproof, but it’ll do the job until the right part arrives.

E. Dunham - 11/05/21

Speaker mesh appeared to already be in place on my replacement screen, so I did not transfer this over from my old screen. That was a huge mistake, sounds were garbled above about 30% volume. Make sure you do this part!

Evan Heisman -

Step 14

Remove the fourteen T3 screws of the following lengths securing the plastic midframe:
Twelve 4.3 mm silver T3 screws
Two 4.3 mm black T3 screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

I found that a T3 bit didn’t get purchase on the screws in my Pixel 3a, but the T4 bit worked great. Not sure what’s up with that.

E. Dunham - 11/05/21

This is definitely possible, depending on which kit’s T3 bit you use, along with potential screw quality variances.

Arthur Shi - 11/05/21

My Pixel 3a has been apart three times for a non-functioning front camera. The first time, it was by a Google authorized repair shop, and the camera stopped functioning again after a few months. When I took it apart the second time, I noted that many of the screws weren't seated before I removed them. The camera module had become disconnected and simply reseating the connector fixed it. I was careful to fully drive all screws and apply an appropriate amount of torque to them, thinking the repair shop failed to do so. After 9 or 10 months, my front camera stopped working again. Again, I'm noticing a lot of the screws have worked themselves loose. I'm going to try to find an appropriate thread compound that I can precisely apply to these tiny screws.

Reid Solberg -

Hey Reid,

I would suggest blue Loctite or threadlocker. Dab a small drop on each screw before you install them.

Arthur Shi -

One of the bolts was rounded, so the torx screwdrivers (T3 or T5 in the kit) couldn't bite and loosen it. Not sure how to go forward.

Won Choi - 14/05/22

Step 15

The midframe is still held in place by plastic clips.
Insert an opening pick into frame seam at the bottom of the phone. This seam sits between the plastic midframe and the back cover.
Slide the pick along the seam to release the clips holding the plastic midframe.

Step 16

Slide the opening pick along the left and right edges of the phone to release the midframe clips.
Lift the bottom edge of the plastic midframe up but do not remove the midframe. The midframe is still tethered to the phone by the fragile proximity sensor cable at the top edge.
To reinstall the plastic midframe, align the midframe to the back cover, and squeeze the perimeter of the phone with your fingers to snap the clips back into position.

Step 17

Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the proximity sensor connector from the motherboard.
Your proximity sensor connector may have automatically disconnected itself when you lifted the midframe.
Remove the plastic midframe.

This connector is f*ckn impossible to reconnect 😭

Arnau Mora -

This is the hardest part of the job. I gave up on connecting the proximity sensor while in the midframe, and found it much easier to remove the proximity sensor from the midframe, attach the connector, then thread the sensor into its home in the midframe.

Steve Williams -

Step 18

This step shows how to reconnect the proximity sensor during re-assembly.
Align the top edge of the plastic midframe with the phone.
Use the point of a spudger to carefully align and push the proximity sensor connector onto the motherboard socket.
This takes a bit of patience and finesse. Once you have the connector in place, you can also use a finger to gently press the connector onto the socket.
Alternatively, you can remove the proximity sensor from the midframe to reattach it to the motherboard first.
Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry the proximity sensor out of its recess on the midframe. The sensor is lightly adhered to the midframe.
Remove the sensor from the midframe. Attach the sensor connector onto its motherboard socket.
Thread the sensor cable through the midframe and reposition the sensor in the recess. Press down with your finger to adhere the sensor back onto the midframe.

I tried to do this for about 15 minutes before I went to the alternative. There is a tiny post to hold the sensor in position on the midframe. I pried the sensor from the midframe from the corner opposite that post and then finished this step in 2 minutes.

jason.naylor - 14/04/21

Definitely plan b for reconnecting the proximaty sensor…

noel - 02/05/21

Plan B ok for me as well. There is a hole below the sensor in order to push it with a sim card opener.

Laurent GUILLOT -

Definitely plan B

Tom Heath -

Plan B here as well. Also +1 for Laurent GUILLOT's hint.

Paul Kube -

Step 19

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector from its motherboard socket.
Bend the battery flex cable slightly so that it will not accidentally make contact with the socket.

Step 20

Remove the two 3.3 mm T3 screws securing the USB-C port.

Step 21

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the USB-C port connector from the daughterboard.
Remove the USB-C port module.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Google Pixel 3a Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Arthur Shi

Member since: 03/01/18

218169 Reputation

9 comments

There was moister in the tip of my USB C cable when I plugged it into my phone to charge. A warning popped up on my screen to unplug. I did right away and the cord smoked…. My charging port is charged… the rest of the phone seems to work fine. The case did not feel hot afterward. Do you think my battery might be damaged too?

Desmond Suarez II - 08/06/20

Hi Desmond,

It sounds like moisture may have shorted some contacts at the USB port. That normally shouldn’t damage the battery. It’s possible the charging circuitry may be damaged.

Arthur Shi - 09/06/20

Where is the part for this? I can't find the USB C port for the 3a!

Jake Rosendahl - 26/07/20

Just did this. A few notes:

* There’s a lot, like a lot, of adhesive up by the front camera. Lacking an iOpener, I used a washcloth soaked in hot water and sealed in a plastic bag to soften the adhesive.

* My ifixit kit is old and didn’t have a pick, but I used the knife to shave down the corner of an old gift card so it was thinner, and that worked fine. I found it easiest to get the screen off by placing several old gift cards under the edges to keep them from sticking down as I pried at other areas.

* I got my replacement port from an eBay listing entitled “Charging Port Flex Cable for Google Pixel 3a G020A G020E G020B 5.6” and it works fine.

* I forgot to buy extra tape for sticking the screen back on, so to keep it from falling off while the tape is in the mail, I’ve applied clear cellophane tape around the outside edges of the screen and back where there are no ports or buttons. It works ok.

* I found that the T4 bit worked better than the T3 for all of the screws involved in this process.

E. Dunham - 11/05/21

Fantastic guide. Really helpful. Yes, tons of adhesive up front and on the bottom. Dealing with adhesive (clearing it out while opening the case, completely removing it while the case is open, and re-applying tesa tape before finishing) is by far the most time consuming part of this process. Overall, it took me 1.5 hrs from start to finish.

Leslie Townes -

Two comments:

- I want to remark the initial warning "The Pixel 3a’s unreinforced display panel is fragile". I cracked a corner of my screen, so be sure to apply some heat to remove the glue. I applied heat, but it seems it wasn't enough. Sides were very easy to remove, top and bottom a bit trickier, especially around the corners.

- Step 18, reconnecting the proximity sensor, was probably the part that required more time. After solid 20 minutes trying to reconnect it with a pointy spudger, I tried using Halberd spudger (the one with a hook end), and I managed to connect it at first try. The main issue here was to press the connector due to the bigger piece besides it. I mean the one that looks like a square with a corner removed just for the connector. The trick with the spudger is to rest it on top of that piece (cut-off corner), and rotate it so it pushes down the connector with the hook itself. Here's a link to a picture I took.

Daniel González Reina - 13/05/22

Really nice guide! thank you! I damaged the black tape on the midframe (step 14) while replacing my diplay and usb port. I was wondering if i need to worry about it? Or can i replace it with any electrical tape. Behind the black tape, i can see silver sheet. Thank you!

Lokesh Pimpale - 07/07/22

Hi Lokesh!

The black tape is a graphite thermal sheet. It helps the phone spread and dissipate heat. As long as the sheet is relatively intact, it will still perform its job. Electrical tape won't work in this case, since it has different properties.

Arthur Shi - 07/07/22

As a complete newbie to removing glass screens via heat/suction, the only thing unclear to me from this guide was whether I would need to buy extra adhesive if I wasn't replacing the screen. The answer is: yes. Tesa tape is on the way now. :) (Seems obvious in hindsight, but, like I said: total newbie.) This also doubles as a review for the iOpener which is now my new favorite tool.

Overall the guide worked absolutely fantastic. I agree that the hardest part is getting the screen off, once you crack the adhesive the interior of the phone is no trouble at all to work on. This guide makes the delicate process of removing the screen less intimidating--the instructions were very clear and easy to follow--and my extremely simple port replacement went very well. Thanks for this!

(I also used a T4 screwdriver, FWIW--I didn't look at that particular part of the instructions but now that I do/look at other comments, I will also just note that I had the best luck with it as well.)

Ang - 05/09/22