Google Pixel 7 Motherboard Replacement

Written By: Dominik Schnabelrauch

Comments: 1

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Use this guide to replace the motherboard in your Google Pixel 7.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your phone. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Caution: The Pixel 7 contains class 1 lasers. Disassembly could result in exposure to invisible infrared laser emissions.

Replacing the motherboard in the Google Pixel 7 requires you to remove the battery. Do not reuse the battery if it has been deformed or damaged, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

This guide was made using the GQML3 model, which features a 5G mmWave antenna. If you have a non-mmWave model, you can still use this guide—just ignore the mmWave antenna steps.

Retaining water resistance after the repair will depend on how well you reapply the adhesive, but your device will lose its IP (Ingress Protection) rating.

You'll need replacement adhesive in order to complete this repair.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Completely power off your phone before you begin.
Apply a heated iOpener to the screen to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 3 minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device. The edge should feel slightly too hot to the touch.

Step 2

The screen of the Google Pixel 7 is held in place by plastic clips and adhesive.
During the removal procedure, make sure to insert your opening picks in the right position to avoid separating the screen from its safety frame instead of the phone assembly.
Only insert the pick up to ~3.5 mm during the removal procedure to avoid damaging the internals and to avoid interfering with the plastic clips.
There are several plastic clips around the whole screen. In case your opening pick gets blocked during the screen removal procedure it means you inserted your pick too deep underneath the screen.

Step 3

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the phone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen and its safety frame when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 5

Once the screen is warm to the touch, apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Lift the screen including its safety frame with the suction handle to create a small gap between the screen and the phone assembly.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you're having trouble, apply more heat to the bottom edge and try again.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 6

Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner of the screen to slice its adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 7

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge and slide it to the bottom left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 8

Insert a third opening pick underneath the bottom left corner of the screen.
Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice the adhesive and to release the plastic clips.
Leave the opening pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 9

If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. Use your iOpener or heat gun for 1-2 minutes to reheat it.
When you slice near the front facing camera, insert only the tip of the opening pick (~2.5 mm) to avoid damaging or smearing the camera.
Insert a fourth opening pick at the top left corner of the screen.
Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the phone to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 10

Insert a fifth opening pick and slide it along the right edge of the phone to slice the remaining adhesive and release the right plastic clips.
Do not try to remove the display all the way yet, the screen is still connected to the phone assembly by a flex cable.

Step 11

Lift the right edge of the screen up and towards the left side of the device, like opening a book.
Don't twist the screen or move it too far away from the frame to avoid straining or damaging the flex cable.
Rest the screen upside down and parallel to the frame before continuing.

Step 12

The display cable bracket sits tightly and requires some force to release it.
Insert one arm of a pair of tweezers into the opening at the upper end of the display cable bracket.
Push the bracket inwards and pry up to release it.

Step 13

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the display cable bracket by pulling it from underneath the midframe and in direction of the cameras.

Step 14

Use a spudger to disconnect the display flex cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 15

Separate the screen from the phone.
During reassembly:
Check that all screws are tightened and there are no loose parts.
Apply new adhesive where it's necessary after cleaning the relevant areas with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).
Follow this guide if you're using custom-cut adhesives for your device.
Follow this guide if you're using a pre-cut adhesive card.
During the boot-up process after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Do not touch the screen during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.

Step 16

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool in the following steps—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
Use a pair of tweezers to peel the black silicone pad off the battery and midframe.

Step 17

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully peel the upper graphite foil off the battery and midframe.
If you're having a hard time peeling off the foil, apply a heated iOpener to the foil for two minutes to loosen its adhesive.

Step 18

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully peel the lower graphite foil off the battery and midframe.
If you're having a hard time peeling off the foil, apply a heated iOpener to the foil for two minutes to loosen its adhesive.

Step 19

Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the three 5.1 mm-long screws securing the loudspeaker.

Step 20

Use a pair of tweezers to lift the loudspeaker out of its recess and remove it.

Step 21

Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the nine 5.1 mm-long screws securing the midframe.

Step 22

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the midframe.

Step 23

Use a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 24

Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape the thermal paste off the motherboard.
Clean any remaining thermal paste with isopropyl alcohol and either a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth.
Repeat the cleaning process for the thermal paste on the midframe.
During reassembly, follow this guide for reapplying thermal paste onto the motherboard.

Step 25

Apply a heated iOpener to the back of the device to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 3 minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device. The edge should feel slightly too hot to the touch.

Step 26

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel the plastic pull tabs away from the battery.

Step 27

Pull the tabs back and forth in a sawing motion up the length of the battery to separate the adhesive underneath.
Work slowly. It's easy to lose your grip and accidentally pull the tab up from under the battery.
If you're having difficulty separating the adhesive, apply more heat and wait for the adhesive to loosen.
If you lose or tear the release strip, follow the next step for an alternative battery removal method.

Step 28

Follow this step if you couldn't loosen the battery using the battery release strip.
Apply a few drops of high concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol into the gap at the top edge of the battery.
Don't apply too much alcohol, or you'll loosen the NFC antenna and charging coil underneath the battery.
Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive.
Use the flat end of a spudger or an opening pick to gently lift the top edge of the battery until you can grab it with your fingers.
Don't use excessive force on the battery. Slow, consistent pressure is all that's required to free it from the frame.
Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Step 29

Tilt the battery out of the device to separate the rest of the adhesive.
Remove the battery.
Do not reinstall a damaged or deformed battery, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.
To secure the replacement battery:
Apply pre-cut adhesive adhesive or double-sided tape to the battery well at the places where the old adhesive was located, not directly onto the battery.
Temporarily reconnect the battery to the motherboard to help align it correctly. Disconnect the battery after it's seated.
Make sure that the battery sits in the center of the battery well and there's an even gap around the battery.
Press the new battery firmly into place.

Step 30

Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the 5.1 mm-long screw securing the mmWave antenna bracket.

Step 31

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the mmWave antenna bracket.

Step 32

Use a spudger to disconnect the mmWave antenna cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 33

Use a pair of tweezers to lift the mmWave antenna including its cable out of its recess.
Remove the mmWave antenna assembly.

Step 34

Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape the thermal paste off the mmWave antenna.
Clean any remaining thermal paste with isopropyl alcohol and either a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth.
Repeat the cleaning process for the thermal paste on the mmWave antenna bracket.
During reassembly, follow this guide for reapplying thermal paste onto the mmWave antenna.

Step 35

Use a spudger to disconnect the front facing camera cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 36

Use a pair of tweezers to lift the front facing camera out of its recess and remove it.

Step 37

Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the 5.1 mm-long screw securing the rear cameras.

Step 38

Use a spudger to disconnect the wide-angle camera cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 39

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the wide-angle camera.

Step 40

Use a spudger to disconnect the ultra wide-angle camera cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 41

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the ultra wide-angle camera.

Step 42

Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the 5.1 mm-long screw securing the earpiece speaker.

Step 43

Insert the pointed end of a spudger underneath the bottom edge of the earpiece speaker.
Pry upwards to loosen the earpiece speaker.

Step 44

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the earpiece speaker.

Step 45

Use a spudger to disconnect the microphone interconnect cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 46

Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole.
Press the SIM eject tool into the SIM card tray hole to eject the SIM card tray.

Step 47

Remove the SIM card tray.

Step 48

Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the 5.1 mm-long screw securing the motherboard.

Step 49

Make sure the motherboard isn't blocked or tangled by any cables during this step.
Insert a spudger underneath the top edge of the motherboard.
Pry upwards to loosen the motherboard until you can grab it with your fingers.

Step 50

Grab the top end of the motherboard with your fingers.
Pull the motherboard in direction of the top edge of the frame to free the charging port from its recess.
Remove the motherboard.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer components like the antenna cables to your new motherboard.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Google Pixel 7 answers community for help.

Author

Dominik Schnabelrauch

Member since: 23/11/16

167396 Reputation

One comment

Hey, i am very glad to found your guide for Pixel 7 board replacement. And i have a question - i had my Pixel 7 died. Was at repair center, the tech said motherboard is just died . They have not this part . Please can you help me with finding of Pixel 7 board like a replacement part ? You can email me at vanko.68@gmail.com

Thanks in advance!

aidavanko -