Google Pixel 7 Pro Rear Camera Assembly Replacement

Written By: Dominik Schnabelrauch

Comments: 3

Google Pixel 7 Pro Rear Camera Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

45 - 55 minutes

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Use this guide to replace the rear camera assembly in your Google Pixel 7 Pro.

This guide was made using the GE2AE model, which features a 5G mmWave antenna. If you have a non-mmWave model, you can still use this guide—just ignore the mmWave antenna steps.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your phone. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Caution: The Pixel 7 Pro contains class 1 lasers. Disassembly could result in exposure to invisible infrared laser emissions.

Retaining water resistance after the repair will depend on how well you reapply the adhesive, but your device will lose its IP (Ingress Protection) rating.

You'll need replacement adhesive in order to complete this repair.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Completely power off your phone before you begin.
Apply a heated iOpener to the screen to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 3 minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device. The edge should feel slightly too hot to the touch.

Step 2

The screen of the Google Pixel 7 Pro is held in place by plastic clips and adhesive.
During the removal procedure, make sure to insert your opening picks in the right position to avoid separating the screen from its safety frame.
Only insert the pick up to ~3.5 mm during the removal procedure to avoid damaging the internals and to avoid interfering with the plastic clips.
There are several plastic clips around the whole screen. If your opening pick gets blocked during the screen removal procedure, you've inserted your pick too deep underneath the screen.

About the paragraph:

During the removal procedure, make sure to insert your opening picks in the right position to avoid separating the screen from its safety frame.

It was not clear to me what the safety frame was until I opened the phone; I was careful but while opening the phone I slid a pick between the screen and the frame, and they became separated in one corner, I wonder if this resulted to my screen being damaged after the repair.

An image that shows what the security frame is would be helpful.

Eduardo CGZ - 12/02/23

Step 3

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the phone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen and its safety frame when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 5

Once the screen is warm to the touch, apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Lift the screen including its safety frame with the suction handle to create a small gap between the screen and the phone assembly.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you're having trouble, apply more heat to the bottom edge and try again.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 6

Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner of the screen to slice its adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

is there any top speaker grill/mesh on Pixel 7 pro?

Mostafa Kamel -

Step 7

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge and slide it to the bottom left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
There's a plastic clip in the bottom left corner that will block your opening pick. Only use the tip of the opening pick (~1 mm) to work your way around it.

Step 8

Insert a third opening pick underneath the bottom left corner of the screen.
Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice the adhesive and to release the plastic clips.
Leave the opening pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 9

If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. Use your iOpener or heat gun for 1-2 minutes to reheat it.
When you slice near the front facing camera, insert only the tip of the opening pick (~2.5 mm) to avoid damaging or smearing the camera.
Insert a fourth opening pick at the top left corner of the screen.
Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the phone to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 10

Insert a fifth opening pick and slide it along the right edge of the phone to slice the remaining adhesive and release the right plastic clips.
Do not try to remove the display all the way yet, the screen is still connected to the phone assembly by a flex cable.

Step 11

Lift the right edge of the screen up and towards the left side of the device, like opening a book.
Don't twist the screen or move it too far away from the frame to avoid straining or damaging the flex cable.
Rest the screen upside down and parallel to the frame.

Step 12

The display cable bracket sits tightly and requires some force to release it.
Insert one arm of a pair of tweezers into the opening at the upper end of the display cable bracket.
Push the bracket inwards and pry up to release it.

Step 13

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the display cable bracket by pulling it from underneath the midframe and in direction of the camera.

Step 14

Use a spudger to disconnect the display flex cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 15

Separate the screen from the phone assembly.
During reassembly:
Check that all screws are tightened and there are no loose parts.
Apply new adhesive where it's necessary after cleaning the relevant areas with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).
Follow this guide if you're using custom-cut adhesives for your device.
Follow this guide in case you're using a pre-cut adhesive card.
During the boot-up process after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Do not touch the screen during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.

Step 16

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully peel the graphite foil off the battery and midframe.
Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
If you're having a hard time peeling off the foil, you can apply a heated iOpener to the back of the device for two minutes to loosen its adhesive.

Step 17

Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the two 5.1 mm-long screws securing the charging port bracket.

Step 18

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the charging port bracket.

Step 19

Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the six 5.1 mm-long screws securing the midframe.

Step 20

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the midframe.

Step 21

Use a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 22

Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape the thermal paste off the motherboard.
Clean any remaining thermal paste with isopropyl alcohol and either a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth.
Repeat the cleaning process for the thermal paste on the midframe.
During reassembly, follow this guide for reapplying thermal paste onto the motherboard.

Step 23

The next seven steps show how to remove the mmWave antenna.
Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the 5.1 mm-long screw securing the mmWave antenna bracket.

Step 24

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the mmWave antenna bracket.

Step 25

Use a spudger to disconnect the mmWave antenna cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 26

The mmWave antenna cable is held in place by mild adhesive.
Slide an opening pick underneath the mmWave antenna cable starting at its bottom end.
Use the opening pick to separate the mmWave antenna cable from the motherboard.

Step 27

Repeat the previous procedure and use the opening pick to separate the horizontal part of the mmWave antenna cable from the motherboard.

Step 28

Use a pair of tweezers to lift the mmWave antenna including its cable out of its recess.
Remove the mmWave antenna assembly.

Step 29

Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape the thermal paste off the mmWave antenna.
Clean any remaining thermal paste with isopropyl alcohol and either a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth.
Repeat the cleaning process for the thermal paste on the mmWave antenna bracket.
During reassembly, follow this guide for reapplying thermal paste onto the mmWave antenna.

Step 30

Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the two 5.1 mm-long screws securing the rear camera assembly.

Step 31

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the spring at the top left corner of the rear camera assembly.

Step 32

Use a spudger to disconnect the front facing camera cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Fold the cable upwards to free the rear camera assembly.
Do not fold the cable sharply or you'll damage the cable.

Step 33

Use a spudger to disconnect the telephoto camera cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 34

Use a spudger to disconnect the wide and ultrawide camera cables by prying the connectors straight up from their sockets.

Step 35

Remove the rear camera assembly.
If your replacement camera module has a plastic spacer, be sure to remove it before you install the module.
Make sure the lens surface is smudge and dust free before you install the camera assembly.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Google Pixel 7 Pro answers community for help.

Author

Dominik Schnabelrauch

Member since: 23/11/16

167396 Reputation

One comment

Thanks for the guide, I successfully replaced the back cameras with its help.

Unfortunately I damaged the screen somewhere in the screen removal steps, it now has a vertical white stripe of about 1/2 inch at the center; it happened somewhere between step 1 and step 10, I know because while sliding the pick across the right edge I accidently turned the phone back on and saw the stripe for the first time; it is unclear to me exactly what caused the damage.

Eduardo CGZ -