GuliKit KingKong 2 Pro Daughterboard Replacement

Written By: Dominik Schnabelrauch

Comments: 3

GuliKit KingKong 2 Pro Daughterboard Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

30 - 35 minutes

Introduction

Use this guide to remove the daughterboard in your GuliKit KingKong 2 Pro controller.

Tools

Step 1

Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the four 11 mm-long screws securing the back cover.

Hi, do you know what size screw is used for the outer portion? mine is stripped and i need to buy a new one

Kevin Dimas -

What you should use is a PH #0 Screwdriver, not a PH #00

Yamatoklok -

Step 2

The back cover of the GuliKit Kingkong 2 Pro is held in place by plastic clips.
Insert an opening pick into the gap between the front assembly and the back cover at the bottom edge of the controller.
Tilt your opening pick downwards to widen the gap.

Step 3

Insert an opening pick into the gap between the front assembly and the back cover at the outside of the right controller handle.
Slide the opening pick along the gap to separate the front assembly from the back cover.

Step 4

Insert an opening pick into the gap between the front assembly and the back cover at the outside of the left controller handle.
Slide the opening pick along the gap to separate the front assembly from the back cover.

Step 5

Separate the back cover from the front assembly and remove it.

Step 6

It's not mandatory to remove the two vibration motors to remove the mainboard assembly. However, other repairs become much easier with the motors removed. If you want to leave the motors in place, you can jump straight to step 9.
Pull on the connectors themselves and not the cables to avoid damaging them.
Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the right vibration motor by pushing the connector straight out of its socket.
If you can't disconnect the vibration motor with a spudger, use a pair of blunt nose tweezers to pull the connector out of its socket.

Step 7

Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the left vibration motor by pushing the connector straight out of its socket.

Step 8

Remove the vibration motors by lifting them out of the controller housing.

Step 9

Use a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the interconnect cable's ZIF connector.

Step 10

Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers to disconnect the interconnect cable by pulling the cable straight out of the connector.

Step 11

Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the screws securing the mainboard assembly:
Four 7.8 mm-long screws.
Two 11 mm-long screws.

Step 12

Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers to remove the metal shield from the mainboard assembly.

Step 13

Remove the mainboard assembly by lifting it out of the controller housing.

I highly recommend pulling off the joystick caps before removing this board, since the joysticky get caught on the other board. Alternatively, one can carefully slide back the mainboard, then unscrew and remove the triggers. Then the mainboard can be lifted up very easily. Accessing the trigger screws is a little tricky this way though.

Sebastian Jost -

Step 14

Take care not to puncture the battery with your tool—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the single 7.8 mm-long screw securing the battery frame.

Step 15

Free the battery frame by lifting it off the plastic pins holding it in place.

Step 16

Pull on the connectors themselves and not the cables to avoid damaging them.
Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers to disconnect the battery connector by pulling it straight out of its socket.
Remove the battery and its frame from the controller housing.