Nintendo Switch Lite Digitizer Replacement

Written By: Craig Lloyd

Comments: 53

Nintendo Switch Lite Digitizer Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

45 minutes - 2 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace a cracked or damaged digitizer on the Nintendo Switch Lite. This repair does not require removing the joysticks or buttons, but it makes the repair much easier.

The Switch Lite uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

Note: This guide is for the digitizer only. If the LCD stopped working, you may just need to replace it, rather than the digitizer. If you are replacing the screen (the LCD attached to the digitizer) follow this guide.

Note: This procedure requires removing the shield plate and heat sink. The thermal paste will need to be cleaned off of both components—as well as the CPU—and reapplied before reinstalling the shield plate and heat sink.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before beginning this repair, make sure that the device is completely turned off.
Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the back panel.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

All my screws got stripped any ideas on how to remove?

Almost A Mammal -

A Y0 screwdriver seemed to work better for me.

Tommy Morrill -

What type of screw driver do I use to un screw the screws and which way

Luca Capito -

Step 2

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the back panel:
Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device
Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the bottom of the device
To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try a different screwdriver if the screws won't come out.

Step 3

Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.
Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

Step 4

Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.

Step 5

Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
Twist the opening tool to release the clips.
Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

Step 6

Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.

Step 7

Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips.

Step 8

Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book.
Remove the back panel.

Step 9

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
Three 3.1 mm screws
One 4.5 mm screw

There are four screws instead of three mentioned

Khurram Chaudry -

it doesnt mention 3 anywhere, and it labels all four

Ezi -

With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage with the next few steps, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).

Nate -

Step 10

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the shield plate up and out of the device.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
Remove the shield plate.
Clean off the old thermal paste from the shield plate and heat sink using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the heat sink before reassembly.

You may need to replace the thermal paste on the heat sink.

ahoz28 -

Step 11

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.

Step 12

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

I turned the unit off beforehand, I used tweezers just like the instructions said (ifixit branded) , my device sparked and now it won’t turn back on

User Service -

The flap came off is it important or is there a way t fix it?

Jose Cruz R Rangel Cordero -

We're you able to get it working without the white flap? My screen is not working after putting it back together and i noticed this white flap was falling off

Jimmy “Ghost” Trost -

Step 13

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Caution the connector may not be properly soldered onto the motherboard. For me it snapped off the pins and now have to find a place to get that fixed if even possible. may have bricked it.

Craig Osman - 30/01/21

Yup, broke the connector right off the motherboard. Thanks, ifixit -_-

Justin Kerr - 14/04/21

I backed out when I reached this point. I couldn't risk damaging it. Do u just need to pull it up? Did you mean that it might have been soldered shut below?

Jannalyzer -

You should just need to pull straight up, but make sure you’re pulling on the wires or the gray plug—do not pull on the black socket or it can snap off of the motherboard.

Adam O'Camb -

I pulled straight up from the south side on under 2 or three wires and held down the device as I pulled and the gray connector disconnected from the black connector on the Switch. Just be careful at this part.

Jon -

With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage at this point, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).

Nate -

Step 14

Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan.
The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

When reassembling, the foam may fold down between the fan and heatsink, blocking airflow. Gently lift the foam back up on top of the fan. The adhesive film should hold the foam together.

Kean Stump - 25/12/20

Is removing the heat sink absolutely necessary?

Clark Aulden - 15/04/21

It’s not necessary, but it makes it much easier to remove and replace the game card reader, since the heat sink partially covers the connector.

Craig Lloyd - 16/04/21

Not really…….. I never remove it. It slides out quite easily once disconnected.

Alan Sears -

What do you do if these screws are stripped? They strip easily

Whatever -

Step 15

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Step 16

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off of the motherboard to remove it.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.
Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

16.5 remove cartridge / headphones jack……….

Calvin Martin -

I've read that there are different ways to apply thermal paste, which should I use?

Kai B -

My kit did not come with thermal paste..

Bryan Donovan -

Step 17

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable's ZIF connector.

Step 18

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the seven 3.1 mm screws securing the game card reader and headphone jack.

Step 19

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the game card reader and maneuver it to the left to slide the cable out of its connector.
Remove the game card reader and headphone jack.

Step 20

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.

I think a whole step to remove the game card reader and speaker jack was skipped here…

ConfusedAzn Random -

yes, just found that sadly these comments do not show unless we click on the , which is unhelpful

Micheal speed -

also, you need to remove the left trigger button

Micheal speed -

Step 21

Remove the right trigger button assembly.

Step 22

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly's rubber pad if it didn't stay attached to the button assembly.

Step 23

Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.
Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.

Step 24

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.

Step 25

Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard.

There’s a step missing after this to remove the screws that hold the orange game cartridge slot. Those 7 screws have to be undone and the ribbon unclipped first before moving on to the next step.

Heather Thrasher -

Step 26

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable's ZIF connector.

skipped a step or two about removing the golden piece in the photo above, and the other little board

Eddy Whitaker -

If I broke the clasp on the ZIF connector can I elec tape it down?

kevin miller -

Step 27

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 28

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.

Can I electrical tape this down if I broke the clasp?

kevin miller -

Step 29

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 30

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable's ZIF connector.

Step 31

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 32

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:
Three 3.1 mm screws
Three 4.5 mm screws

how to get the c port off

Dustin Cronk -

When re-assembling, be sure the fan cable (step 25) is completely pulled through prior to tightening the screw that’s right next to it.

John Glaeser -

Step 33

Insert a spudger in the gap between the frame and the motherboard and lift the motherboard up and out of its recess.
Remove the motherboard assembly.

Step 34

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.

Step 35

Use your fingers to remove the joystick.
There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

Where are parts for the right joystick?

John - 28/02/21

Step 36

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to pull the left speaker cable straight up and out of its socket on the daughterboard.
Do not pull from the wires, or else you risk ripping the wires off the connector.

pulled from the connector, not the wires, and ended up ripping them off the connector anyways since it encountered tension from the other end (the gray chamber on the left)

consider doing step 15 before pulling the wire, just in case.

Phillipe Legenda - 01/02/21

Why even disconnect this cable. Not worth the risk leave it connected to daughter board.

Michael McNally -

while doing this I ripped the pad on the circuit board off. Should i risk trying to repair it or should i just try to go without the speaker???

sarah.carney203 -

I also accidentally ripped off the connector, disabling the left speaker. However, that will not break any functionality of the switch. The right speaker works just fine on its own (just remember to turn the audio to mono in system settings) and I was successfully able to replace the joystick. Although the audio quality is a little bit depleted, you barely notice it if you turn up the volume a little, and I think being able to actually MOVE FORWARD in my games is a better plus than having louder, stereo, audio.

Jonathan Maye -

Went to pull the speaker connector and it pulled right off the motherboard. Would not come loose.

putnamjerome4 -

I'm gonna echo what others said here and suggest that you skip this step. After you complete Step 15, you can just move the speakers enough with your fingers to complete Step 26, which involves a screw half underneath it.

Regarding the ribbon cable in Step 17 & Step 18, you can honestly use your fingers if they're small enough. The ribbon cable is wide enough for you to press down on it a little and slide it out bit by bit.

Overall, this makes the disassembly and eventual reassembly process easier and lets you avoid running the risk of damaging or completely tearing out the wires, like I almost did.

ThatDerpGuy -

Step 37

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 4.5 mm screw securing the left speaker module.

Step 38

Use your fingers to lift the speaker module up and out of its recess to remove it.
Part of the speaker module sits underneath a delicate ribbon cable. Take care not to snag the speaker module on the cable as you remove it.

Pulling the lower screw on the speaker assembly gave me a little more wiggle room to get it out without damaging the flat cable.

Spacer - 18/02/21

Step 39

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.

Step 40

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the motherboard interconnect cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

Step 41

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors.

Step 42

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the daughterboard screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
Repeat this procedure for the volume buttons cable.

Step 43

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons.

Step 44

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable's ZIF connector.

Step 45

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the left joystick cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

The connector for my left joystick broke. Is there a way to fix it?

Christopher Shackelford - 11/05/21

How badly did it broke?

Daniele Carminati - 11/05/21

Step 46

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the left trigger button assembly.

Step 47

Remove the left trigger button assembly.

Step 48

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
Two 4.5 mm screws
Two 6 mm screws

The two 4.5 mm screws were very difficult to remove here and ended up getting stripped. I CANNOT remove them, help!

Sara Rouse- Barker -

Step 49

Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard up and out of its recess to remove it.

Stop here if repairing Switch Lite for joycon drift. After removing daughter card you can see the bottom of the joystick. This thin metal actually bends during use causing bad connection of joystick. If you cut out a business card the same size as the joycon and put it on the bottom of the joystick it gives the metal enough backing to fix the issue. I used two layers with just a small bit of glue stick to adhere it. Put it all back together and you will find your issue is fixed.

Michael McNally -

Step 50

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the left joystick.

Step 51

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the joystick up and out of its recess.
Use your fingers to remove the joystick.
There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

Step 52

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
Three 2.5 mm screws
One 6 mm screw

Be careful not to get the upper far-left screw stuck on the digitizer cable.

Hayden - 07/11/21

Step 53

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the midframe assembly up and out of its recess.
Remove the midframe assembly.

Step 54

At this point in the repair, remove all of the buttons if you haven't done so already, to prevent them from falling out and getting lost.
Use these two photos for reference.

Step 55

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the back side of the LCD along the top edge for 2 minutes.
A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the LCD if you plan on reusing it, as it's susceptible to heat damage.

Step 56

Insert an opening pick between the frame and the top edge of the LCD to begin separating the two components.
Make sure to insert the pick completely under the LCD panel so you don't split and damage it.
You'll know you're splitting the panel if the silver backing bubbles and separates from the white lining.

Step 57

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the LCD to slice the adhesive.

Step 58

Apply a heated iOpener to the back side of the LCD along the right edge for 2 minutes.

Step 59

Continue sliding the opening pick around the right edge of the LCD, slicing the adhesive.
The LCD and digitizer cables are placed in a way to prevent them from easily snagging on the opening pick, but still use caution when sliding the opening pick along the gap.

저부분 들어올릴때 정말정말 약하니 점착제를 자르고 열을 가하며 천천히 들어 올려야함

정광재 -

Step 60

Apply a heated iOpener to the back side of the LCD along the bottom edge for 2 minutes.

Step 61

Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the LCD to slice the adhesive.
You'll need to remove and reinsert the opening pick at various points along the LCD's edge to work around the frame.

Step 62

Apply a heated iOpener to the back side of the LCD along the left edge for 2 minutes.

Step 63

Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the LCD to slice the adhesive.
Take care not to snag the LCD's daughterboard cable on the opening pick.

Step 64

Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to lift the LCD up and out of the frame to remove it.
If you're reusing the LCD (or your new LCD does not come with pre‑installed adhesive), follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive around the perimeter before reassembly.

Step 65

If you're also replacing the digitizer, you can skip this step.
Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the remaining adhesive around the perimeter of the digitizer.
Prior to installing a new LCD, use isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean and remove any residual adhesive from the back side of the digitizer. Wait several minutes for any remaining alcohol to evaporate before installing the LCD.

Step 66

Apply a heated iOpener to the front side of the digitizer along the left edge 2 minutes.

Step 67

Slightly bend the left side of the frame to create a gap between the digitizer and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
If you're having difficulty creating a gap, apply more heat.

Step 68

Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.

Step 69

Apply a heated iOpener to the front side of the digitizer along the top edge for 2 minutes.

Step 70

Continue working the opening pick around the top-left edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.

Step 71

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.

Step 72

Apply a heated iOpener to the front side of the digitizer along the bottom edge for 2 minutes.

Step 73

Continue working the opening pick around the bottom-left edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.

Step 74

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.

Step 75

Apply a heated iOpener to the front side of the digitizer along the right edge for 2 minutes.

Step 76

Use your hands to slowly lift the left side of the digitizer, opening it like a book.
The positioning of the digitizer cables prevents removing the digitizer straight off the frame.

Step 77

Lift the right side of the digitizer straight off the frame at a 45-degree angle to remove it.

Where is the exact position of the adhesive under this digitizer? You sow removing it, but not where to put any adhesive on a new digitizer

Marc -

Likewise, what thickness would you recommend for replacing the adhesive, 1mm/2mm/4mm etc?

Thanks

Marc -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for help.

Author

Craig Lloyd

Member since: 10/02/16

29943 Reputation

4 comments

Great guide, but quick tip when removing the screen. There are two pieces of the screen sandwiched together and when I took mine apart, these two pieces came unstuck and ruined the screen itself. The digitizer was fine, but the LCD came apart. So make sure the opening pick gets under both of these parts rather than just the reflective back.

Bridger Caicedo - 17/01/21

I bought this Switch Lite with a broken LCD to repair and sell, so the screen was already blown out, but I had the same issue. The LCD was still connected to the digitizer and it actually peeled the LCD apart. As I said earlier, the LCD was already broke so it wasn’t a big issue, but I would of been fairly angry if it hadn’t of been.

Matthew D. H. - 12/03/21

it looks like it might be possible to do steps 1 - 10, then step 28, then steps 66 onwards, and reverse to reassemble, the guide isn’t clear why it would be required to do a full tear down, is there something that would make this method not work or more likely to cause further damage, if I’m just switching out the digitizer, pun intended.. :) ?

Johnmichael Quinlan -

Were I to guess, I would say that the full teardown guide is meant to apply to any, and all, scenarios, regardless of any unmentioned issues that a user may have.

Another possibility is that if a user has a damaged digitizer from a drop, or other type of impact(s); then by performing a full teardown, they may discover other elements in need of repair.

Jeff Blankenship Jr. -