iPad Air 4 Battery Replacement

Written By: Chayton Ritter

Comments: 0

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

2 - 3 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to remove or replace the battery in your iPad Air 4.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

This guide is written with an A2324 (cellular + mmWave) model iPad Air. If you're fixing a Wi-Fi model, you can still use this guide—there will be some visual discrepancies, and you'll need to skip the steps related to the cellular antennas.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Step 2

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the screen and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

Step 3

While your iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under portions of the screen. To avoid damage, follow instructions exactly as written and note the following areas as you open your iPad:
Camera module and ambient light sensors
Display cables
Screen magnets
Display edges

Step 4

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the left edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 6

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Apply a suction handle to the top left edge of the screen.
Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap just small enough to insert an opening pick.
Only create a gap small enough to insert an opening pick. Overbending the screen will damage it.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 7

Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
Slide the opening pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 8

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 9

Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display cables.
Insert a new opening pick in the bottom left corner.
Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 10

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 11

The right edge of the iPad contains the screen magnets, display cables, and a digitizer cable. These components are easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far.
Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner and slide along the right edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following marked areas:
Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the screen magnets.
The screen magnets are located directly above the SIM card slot (Wi-Fi + Cellular models only) and volume buttons.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display and digitizer cables.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 12

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 13

The top edge of the iPad contains the front camera module and two ambient light sensors. These components are easily damaged if an opening pick is inserted too far.
The two ambient light sensors can be hard to see and can be located using a flashlight or by placing the iPad under a bright light.
Insert a new opening pick in the top right corner and slide along the top edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following:
Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.
Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the front camera module.
Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 14

Don't try to remove the screen yet, as it's still attached to the frame by delicate ribbon cables.
Grip the left edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Step 15

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 16

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Step 17

Cut two 6 mm wide strips from a playing card or cardstock to use as a battery blocker.
The strips should be about 4 cm long so you can easily grip them.

Step 18

Insert the card strips on each side of the battery connector until they stop.

Step 19

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the display and digitizer cable brackets to the logic board:
Two 1.1 mm screws
One 1.5 mm screw

Step 20

The display cable bracket is held in place by a small latch at the bottom.
Use tweezers or your fingers to pivot the latch out from the top and remove the bracket.

Step 21

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the digitizer cable bracket.

Step 22

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two display cables by lifting straight up on the press connectors.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 23

Repeat the previous step for the digitizer cable.

Step 24

Grip the left edge of the screen and lift it away.
During reassembly, before installing a screen, remove any remaining adhesive from the frame, and clean the glued areas with high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.
If you plan to reinstall your existing screen, remove any remaining adhesive from the back and clean the adhered areas with isopropyl alcohol.
Follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive strips on your iPad before sealing it up.

Step 25

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the bottom speaker cable by prying straight up on the rear of the connector.

Step 26

Use tweezers to remove the tape covering the SIM card reader ZIF connector.

Step 27

Use tweezers or a spudger to lift up the latch on the SIM card reader ZIF connector.
Use tweezers to pull the SIM card reader cable from its socket.

Step 28

Repeat the previous two steps to disconnect the bottom right cellular antenna interconnect cable.

Step 29

Use tweezers or your fingers to peel the bottom right cellular antenna interconnect cable to the edge of the frame.
If the cable is difficult to remove, use a few drops of high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to soften the adhesive.

Step 30

The battery is secured to the frame with eight adhesive strips:
Three under each battery cell
Two under the battery boards

Step 31

Prop the left side of the iPad up so the isopropyl alcohol can flow under the battery.
Apply a few drops of high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol along the left edge of the battery.
Be careful if you're using a syringe with a needle or other sharp instrument to dispense isopropyl alcohol—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
Let the alcohol soak for one minute to soften the adhesive under the battery.

Step 32

Lay the iPad down flat on your work surface.
Insert a plastic card under the left side of the lower battery cell to separate the adhesive securing it to the frame.
Don't force the card or bend the battery—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
If it's difficult to insert or slide the card, apply more isopropyl alcohol, wait one minute, and try again.
Leave the plastic card in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 33

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the plastic card for additional leverage.
Pry against the card to separate the remaining adhesive.
If it's difficult to insert or slide the card, apply more isopropyl alcohol, wait one minute, and try again.

Step 34

Repeat the previous two steps for the upper battery cell.

Step 35

Lay your iPad screen side down on a clean surface.
Apply a heated iOpener to the back of the iPad about 4 cm from the right edge.
Let the iOpener soften the adhesive for two minutes.

Step 36

Lay the iPad screen side up.
Slide the flat end of a spudger under the cellular wireless connector until the logic board lifts and the battery blocker card strips are loose.
Don't force the spudger in or pry up. If it's difficult to insert or slide the spudger, apply more heat. Alternatively, a few drops of high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol may be used to soften the adhesive.
Leave the spudger in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 37

Lift the left edge of the battery cells.
Apply a few drops of high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to the battery boards which sit along the right edge of the battery cells.

Step 38

Slide an opening pick under the battery board to separate the adhesive securing it to the frame.

Step 39

Remove the battery blocker card strips.
Lift the battery up and away from the frame so its connector clears the standoff post.
Don't let the battery connector touch the contacts on the logic board.

Step 40

Lift both halves of the battery out of the iPad at the same time.
Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.
Remove the old battery adhesive from the frame using tweezers and high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol with a lint-free cloth where needed.
If your battery doesn't come with preinstalled adhesive, use Tesa tape to reattach the battery to the rear case.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Air 4 answers community for help.